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-   -   Yorkshire & Cotswolds OR Dordogne - can't decide (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/yorkshire-and-cotswolds-or-dordogne-cant-decide-941486/)

Carlux Jul 5th, 2012 11:39 AM

I'd certainly vote for France. We came on holiday, and have now lived here for 18 years. Still havent seen everything.

Rocamadour is certainly better for the view than for exploration.

Carennac is wonderful. Les Arques is VERY small. It has the restaurant La Recre, now changed hands, and I don't know about the new owners. The Zadkine musuem. And not much more.

Why wouldn't you find one place to stay? None of these places is very distant, and if it were me, I would rather stay in one place than change locations. But maybe I'm lazier than you are.

Where are you considering in Domme?

twk Jul 5th, 2012 11:40 AM

I've driven in Scotland and the Dordogne and I would say that, for a solo traveler, trying to both drive and navigate in the UK, where you are driving on the opposite side of the road, is probably too much. Now, driving and navigating in the Dordogne with a manual transmission, if you are used to automatic, might be a bit daunting at times, but is more feasible if you bring your own GPS and are well familiar with how it works. We used an unfamiliar GPS in France and only got away without it being a terrible problem because I switched from being driver/navigator to just being the navigator. Would have been marginally easier with an automatic, but there's just an awful lot of navigation info to process in this region. Give me an automatic transmission and my own GPS in the Dordogne and I could make it without too much trouble.

Domme has somewhat of a narrow entrance to the walled city, and the streets are not wide (but not ridiculously narrow, either), but in a small car (we were in a van), you should be able to get in and out of town without too much trouble. We spent a week in a house next to the chateau in Beynac and even with having to park and walk 150 yards, half of which was pretty steep, it was worth it to stay in a place like that. I would think Domme would be, too, and then some.

It's a great region to visit, so I reccommend doing whatever it takes to make this an easier trip for you, even if that means paying more for an automatic (if that is what you normally drive) and buying a GPS that you can take with you.

susan001 Jul 5th, 2012 11:47 AM

Carlux, I didn't know that Le Recre had changed hands (I've read the book You can't see Paris from here). Thanks for letting me know. I'm thinking of L'Esplanade in Domme as it's gotten good reviews. Thanks also for saying that I don't need to change hotels. Wow, you've lived in France 18 years. Good for you. I've actually considered it myself.

susan001 Jul 5th, 2012 11:51 AM

twk,
I drive an automatic here, but drove manual my first 15 years of driving. My first car as a teenager was a Peugot with manual trans.

Thanks so much for your insight regarding the differences in UK driving and Dordogne (without a navigator in the car - a breathing one).

I'll plan to buy and bring my own GPS.

twk Jul 6th, 2012 04:40 AM

susan: The car we rented had a TomTom GPS (they are more popular in Europe than in the US) and one of the neat features was that they had information on speed limits and speed cameras. If you set the safety features correctly, you can have your GPS warn you when you are over the limit, or approaching a speed camera. The speed limit information wasn't foolproof, but it was a handy aid for those occasions when you were in doubt as to the speed limit at a given point. So, with a view to my next driving trip in Europe, I purchased a TomTom when I got home ($135 at Best Buy--European map can be bought just before you leave for $69).

uhoh_busted Jul 6th, 2012 05:38 AM

We've stayed in Beynac, Limeuil, Carennac, and Brantome while in the region, and enjoyed them all....expecially the first three. They are very well located as bases. If you want a village/town that is a bit larger, I think Dome, Bergerac or Sarlat would both fill the bill, with more restaurants you could walk to. I have a friend who stayed three nights in Dome (as a single traveler) at an exceptionally lovely hotel, and loved it dearly.

susan001 Jul 6th, 2012 06:55 AM

twk -- thank you for the Tom Tom info and recommendation.

uhoh_busted, thanks for confirming my Domme, Hotel L'Esplanade, choice.

susan001 Jul 14th, 2012 02:20 PM

After discussing my plans with some friends yesterday at lunch, I've about decided to abandon plans to drive abroad, unless I find a like-minded travel companion. I know first-hand that things can happen on rural roads, and in France there would be no AAA roadside assistance, and I don't speak French, except for a few polite phrases.

So, I'm looking at doing a modified version of the trip, hiring a private guide to take me to the areas I want to see in the Dordogne region (I did this in Provence).

I'm looking at either one of these options
Bruges
Paris
Chenonceaux
Sarlat (all can be reached by train)
Day tours of the Dordogne
Fly out Toulouse

OR

Fly in Toulouse
Sarlat (private day tours of Dordogne)
Chenonceau
Paris
Eurostar to London - then to Bath
Bath - day tours to Stonehenge & Cotswolds
Derby - visit a friend there
Hathersage
Haworth
Fly out - Leeds or Manchester

emily71 Jul 14th, 2012 03:08 PM

I seems like half your time will be spent on trains but I'd choose Belgium and France, due to the closer proximity.

susan001 Jul 14th, 2012 03:13 PM

Emily, I know; after studying the logistics of getting to George Sand's house in Nohant-Vic (in Berry region, France) by public trans, I'm thinking it would be so much easier to drive there. I'll give it all some more thought. Thanks for your input regarding Belgium.

annhig Jul 15th, 2012 01:53 AM

I know first-hand that things can happen on rural roads, and in France there would be no AAA roadside assistance, and I don't speak French, except for a few polite phrases>>

susan, your car rental agreement would of course include road-side assistance, though it is unlikely that the person who turned up would have very good english.

however you do it, your 2nd itinerary looks pretty full [I'm remembering that you have about 17 nights - is that right?] - enough to fill 4 weeks, not 2 and a half. your first itinerary is much better suited to the time you've got.

susan001 Jul 15th, 2012 11:50 AM

Hi Annhig, I agree the 2nd itinerary is seeming like too much. I have summers off (I'm a teacher) so there's no real time limit (but there is a cash limit :-) ).

Thanks for letting me know about the roadside assistance. I've wondered also about cell phone reception in Dordogne region. I have ATT. Anyone know? I'm back to thinking having a car would be the way to go.

Susan

susan4 Aug 16th, 2012 08:20 AM

Hi, Would like to mention that the Cotswolds ARE doable without a car. My daughter and I took the train from London to Moreton-in-Marsh and stayed at the Redesdale Arms for several days. We took local buses to several towns. Sorry, no trip report. DD thought 3 days was plenty, but I would have liked to stay longer as there were more towns we could have gotten to by bus.

I loved the Cotswolds and hope to return. Next time, I would stay in another city. Morton-in-Marsh is convenient for train and bus, but there are cuter cities. Since buses didn't run late, we spent evenings and had dinner in M-in-M each evening. We did not use, but I am sure you could arrange ahead for a taxi to travel from train to another town with your suitcase, and also find a "private driver" for a day to see more scenery. Another option would be to stay in M-in-M and use a taxi each evening. Personally, I loved taking the local buses.

Have fun whatever you decide.


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