scatcat

I will be arriving on a Sunday around noon and I will leave in the afternoon on Monday. So I will have a little time to get acquainted with Soglio. I'm sure I will want to return.

I am staying At Hotel Du Lac in Varenna while I am solo. Then I am meeting my son at Bellagio and I have booked Hotel Bellagio Centrale. It's a screwed up trip. Originally, my son was flying into Berlin and I would meet him there. Then he decided he wanted to go to Lake Como too. He doesn't like to stay in Europe for 3 weeks like me, so he comes a week later. And at one time, he thought he may cancel entirely and get a J-O-B. (he sells real estate currently and owns rental property) He figured since real estate was slow that it would be best to get a confirmed paycheck. But being his usual care-free self, he decided against a job. So, I am not discarding my own plans just in case he gets the urge again to get a job. Therefore, I will be visiting Lake Como twice in September.

After my solo to Varenna, I am taking the Bernina Express to Chur, then the next day heading on to Wengen for 3 nights. On my way back to Italy is when I will be in Soglio.

wrenwood

Doesn't matter if you're all over the map, doing it with your son will alwys be special!

wlbox

we have two nights booked in Guarda for late August and now feel the need to drive and check out Soglio. We will be driving in from Lauterbrunnen after a few days of hiking in the BO. How long of a drive is it from Guarda to Soglio? We would like to add a special hike into our day and then return for the evening back to Guarda. Do you think this is reasonable?
Any other great stops we must see in the local area, we will have a car. thanks

Would love to see some of your photos especially of Soglio

wrenwood

No problem I think if you leave early from Guarda. Maybe 1 1/2 to 2 hrs max?

And you should still have decent daylight hours in late August .....I think...Ingo? Swandav?

The first time we went to Soglio we went from Guarda. (where are you staying by the way?)

Our weather that day ( 2 years ago) was rainy, so the trip over Majola pass took longer. But then maybe it's about the same if it's sunny, as if it's sunny you'll probably be stopping along the way for pics and to just stand and gawk.

The hike we took on the (wrong) trail down to Promontogno and the bus back to Soglio, couldn't have beem more than 3-4 hrs total ( and we hike very slow, I get distracted easily by flowers and lizards and odd questions that pop into my mind!)

The hike we intended to take on the "high" road, the Sentiero Panoramico Trail, I think we went out about 2 1/2 hrs and 2 1/2 hrs back. We just turned around when we felt we should. It is a rocky trail with lots of steps, but totally worth it. My 57 year old shins and knees were not happy with me, but I guarantee you, when, not if, we go back, I will go back on that trail.

I probably will not have time to get photos onto a website before you leave, but I will be happy to email you photos if you like.

When you come back from hiking you must have some "refreshment" in the garden behind Palazzo Salis.

Buy some Crema di Castagnea at the store on the same side as the church, before the church. It is awesome on bread, but my mind is already formulating a recipe for a nut tart using this as a base on the pastry with nuts and whipped cream. "Nusstorte Soglio"

Obviously I'm smitten.

Ingo

Driving time Guarda - Soglio is two hours normally. No photos stops or so included. I am not sure it is worth this long drive if you have only one full day in Guarda. My gosh, there is SO much to do in the area. I personally would drive to Punt Muragl, take the funicular up and hike to Alp Languard, chair lift down and back by bus to the car (or walk). This will take about 4 hours I think. And it would still leave enough time for driving along the lakes to Sils and walking around there, maybe taking a horse-drawn carriage into the Fex Valley (to Fex Crasta at least). Have coffee and cake in Pension Fex or Hotel Sonne, walk back to Sils (1 hour).

Ingo

wlbox

we will be staying at Hotel Meisser in Guarda.

I love reading other trip reports and gleaning fun ways to spend our short time in such fantastic locations.

wrenwood

We loved our stay in Hotel Meisser, and we loved Guarda. I hope the gentleman that plays the Zither is there, and when you walk through the town, maybe you'll see the goats on the balcony. The town is just exquisite.

And Ingo is right, there is so much to do in this area, you'll have a hard time making up your mind what to do .I'm already thinking about our next trip!

Also try to have plan A and plan B in mind........sunny or rainy.

Let me know your email address if you want some pictures, or you could just google images.

Will try to post 6/18 in the next day or so, work calls

wrenwood

6/18
Got up a little earlier so we could get going on our hike on the Sentiero Panoramico Trail. Breakfast was the usual buffet of fruits, yogurts, meat, cheeses, bread etc., all of it tasting even better than usual as we had our breakfast at the tables in the front of the Hotel, outside. Best view I’ve had at breakfast for a long time!

Since we were checking out that day and we weren’t sure when we would be back from our hike, Monica said we could leave our suitcase in the reception area.

This trail was definitely panoramic! The views were gorgeous, and again we saw lots of wildflowers and lizards. And lots of steps. And more steps. And more steps. LLindaC wasn’t kidding when she said it was a little rocky with steps, but well worth it, I would do it again in a heartbeat.

We used some maps to try to calculate how far up from the valley floor these mountains rise, we think about 7500 feet. Anyone know for sure?

So,we’re assuming some of what we were walking on was part of the old Roman Roads? In parts some very large stones were cantilevered out over the retaining wall about 4’ to give more width to the trail/road. It appeared that one of these walls, about 10’-12’ in height had small steps down along the wall to a water source. Some of the trail/road had the steps chiseled into bedrock, some of the road was made up of very large stones (and steps, many steps) and some of the trail/road had the stones laid on edge, almost a rough cobblestone effect. Between enjoying the views, discussing the trail/road construction and old trade routes, and taking pictures ( large glade of Aruncus, a woodland flower commonly called “Goatsbeard”) we didn’t make it very far. We only made it just past the big waterfall, didn’t make it to the Cheeseman. Next time we will find the Cheeseman!

Once back in Soglio, we went to the hotel and freshened up a little, then went back to the garden behind for a light lunch. I had a green salad and a glass of wine, DH had 3 scoops of ice cream. We then got our suitcase, said goodbye to Monica and headed back through town towards the bus. It was such a beautiful sunny day, we stopped at the Church again for one last look. Felix is right, it is surely heaven.

The bus ride back was beautiful but a little sad, time had gone so quickly. Once back in Sils the shuttle arrived within a few minutes to take us back up to Waldhaus. They all greeted us by name and asked how we had liked Soglio and what we had done.

Dinner was different than 2 nights before, no salad bar, but a 4 course meal (which again was excellent) and this night we had live classical music in the dining room, piano and violin. It was lovely. And when we arrived at our table our partial bottle of wine that we had taken back to our room 2 nights before (but been too sleepy to drink) was waiting for us. We had left a note with it in the room when we left asking them to save it for our return, but I wasn’t sure if housekeeping could read English. And another surprise, when we picked up the menu........there was an English translation. When Urs came by our table to welcome us back to Waldhaus from Soglio, we commented that he must have been working hard that morning. He beamed and said “You see! It has English translation!” My husband had as an appetizer a Beef Bouillon Soup “ made from beef which only grazes naturally and has been raised by the local policeman”

Love it! Only in Switzerland!

scatcat

wrenwood

Do you remember how long it took you to walk that part of the trail? I am assuming it is just a walk not serious hiking? I will be alone, so I don't want to venture off too far. Also, can you give me directions from the bus stop to Hotel Palazzo Salis? I am arriving on a Sunday and I don't know if I can locate someone to point me in the right direction.

wrenwood

We just walked out about 3 hrs, back about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. It's such a lovely trail you don't mind backtracking. So just go out as far as you want to and turn around.

No, it is not what I call "serious hiking." We wore good walking sneakers, it is slow and rocky at times, you cross a stream via rocks. It's not not really exceptionally steep, but there are lots of steps! Sometimes the progress is a little slow if you are a klutz like I am and you are concentrating on the rockiness you are walking on. I'm 57, HATE going uphill (but ya know it's the only way to see what I want to see!) My knees and shins complained some, but nothing some Advil didn't help. If you want to see photos of the trail, let me know your email address.

Palazzo Salis is at the top of the hill. From the bus stop just follow the yellow brick road uphill, the main road up the hill from the bus stop. The church will be on your right, just keep going uphill.

Did you notice, there is a recurrent theme when visiting Soglio........ steps .......... uphill......

But again, totally worth it. If we had been there longer I would have gone right back out the next day ( after 2 Advil!)

scatcat

wrenwood

Thanks for the info. I don't have any trouble with my knees or legs, but I can get lost in Wal-Mart. So as long as I follow the trail, I should be able to find my way back. I am sure I will have a room on the top floor of the hotel. I have stairs at home, but not 48! I hope I'm not wore out before I go to the trail. It sounds so pretty, I can't wait to go. I am deathly afraid of snakes and lizards. Are they small lizards? I can run really fast when I'm scared.

wrenwood

Once you find the trail there's no problem. When you come out the front door of the hotel turn left, there's a wall with a large dark brown door under and ivy covered arch. On the wall are some school-bus yellow signs one of which says Sentiero Panoramico

Next watch on the left for the carved wooden sign with the cute mouse that says “Pension Murias” As I remember the Sentiero Panoramico sign is on a wall/building on your right as you face the front door of Pension Murias.

I know we missed the trail the first time because we were so busy looking up at the mountains and all around us!l And discussing that sign!

The Lizards are very small, salamader size, just sunning themselves on the warm rocks. As soon as we got close they scurried to a hiding place. If you don't see them ahead of time you might not even see them as we had to slow down and be quiet to get close. Probably saw no more than 10 off and on. Just don't get scared as I don't think you want to run fast on this trail!

scatcat

I am printing out your directions. It's really nice to have someone to hand down info. I am not leaving Soglio til about 2:00 PM on Monday. I want to be able to walk around town while shops are open.

Nlingenfel

Just read your trip reports. Thanks. I'm from Central PA. Roaring Spring, where were you from? Leaving for Switzerland middle of Aug.

wrenwood

Nlingenfel, I grew up in State College. I ASSUME you are a PSU fan?

Still have several days to report on, should be able to do it next weekend. My work schedule this week is not pretty.

I wish I was going back to Switzerland middle of August! Have you been before? Where are you going?

wrenwood

6/19

Got up early and had another wonderful breakfast and then headed out on the Hotel transport to the Train Station to catch the early Bernina Express

The trip was very enjoyable, we saw a lot more than we did our first trip in 2007. The pass on top however was still pretty overcast/cloudy, but we saw a lot more of the glaciers and mountains towards the top.

When we got to Tirano we checked our 2 suitcases in at the customs/ticket area, it cost 5 euros each, but was worth it not to have to wheel them all over town.

It was quite hazy, hot, and humid in Tirano, quite a shock from the weather we had been having, it felt like we were back on the east coast in the US!

We stopped at the second restaurant after coming from the train station, it was surprisingly nice. I had a local wine, and we tried the pizzoccheri, it was really good, I'll be checking out a recipe to try at home. I would never have thought of putting potatoes together with pasta! My husband had some really good gelato there, he thought it better than the place that we walked to where we had been in 2007. We tried one other gelato place, but the first cafe still won.

Next stop was the bus to Lugano, which was parked right next to the train station, very easy. It was here however that we got our first hint that all would not be quite smooth.

We had booked for that night at Hotel Stella d'Italia, in San Mamete outside Lugano. Our email from the Hotel had suggested that we ask the bus driver to let us off in front of the Hotel, that this was not an unusual request. Quite the contrary, the busdriver shook his head vehemently and said "polezei" several times. So we realized we would be going into Lugano.

The trip was 4 hours with a stop, very hazy, okay, but nothing we would repeat. The most interesting part was as we got closer to Lugano. The roads got narrower, the turns tighter, with rush hour traffic coming towards us. The bus driver had to hug the stone wall that was covered with plants on our side of the road in order to have enough room in several places for two vehicles to pass, and honk his horn to stop oncoming traffic so that he could swing wide to negotiate the tight turns. I'm sure it was the norm for him, but there were many tourists taking pictures out the windows! He received a lot of applause at the end of the trip!

We called the hotel. The said they would send a cab. Now we did not know if they were paying or if we were. We were. It cost us 65 swiss francs, depleting our cash reserve of francs.

When we arrived at the Hotel, the owners looked at us blankly. We said hello and who we were. They said nothing about our problems getting there, no "I'm so sorry you had problems", no handshake or real greeting. Just an acknowledgement that we were checking in for one night.

This absolutely stunned us almost speechless, as we have had nothing but pleasant experiences everywhere we have been in Europe.

So we were escorted upstairs to our room which was on the second floor, not the top floor as I had been told in my email confirmation. I said nothing as I wanted to make sure when I got home that I hadn't misunderstood my confirmation. The room was pleasant enough, a little dated, but a nice balcony with a stunning view.

The dining area is also just lovely, even if you don't have a prime table right at lakeside. Our appetizers were ok, my entree pasta had totally inedible shrimp, they were so mushy I was afraid to eat them thinking they might be bad. My husband's seafood was also tasteless. We waited for someone to come by and ask the usual "is everything ok?" no one ever did. So we finally finished our wine and left.

So if anyone else decides to stay there I hope you have a better experience than we did. The setting is just beautiful, but I would not recommend it. It was recommended on this board by two different posters, one of whom has apparently stayed there multiple times, so apparently there are good times to be had there. Trip Advisor does have varied reviews, some of which mention the coolness and apparent lack of concern of the owners.

wrenwood

6/20
Up early so we could pack to be ready for our 8:30 taxi to Lugano train station. The lake was beautiful in the morning. Breakfast was not memorable, again except for the setting, so we left Stella d'Italia, paying another 40 Euros for our taxi.

We picked up our first train to Bellazona, then another to Lucarno, then to Domodossola. All very easy, very enjoyable. The valley we went through was very different, quite "wild" I almost wondered if it was a National Park of some type. It was beautiful.

Eventually to Visp and back up to Zermatt. We really enjoyed the train ride up to Zermatt again.

We called Bella Vista who came to pick us up in Zermatt. The couple that owns and runs Bella Vista couldn't be any nicer.

We took it easy, watched to see if the clouds would leave the Matterhorn (no such luck) then walked into town to Walliserkanne for dinner. I had a wonderful raclette, husband's dinner he said was okay, it is a fun place to eat.

Walked back up the hill to the Hotel, sat on our balcony and drank some of the Vanilla Plum Liquer we had purchased, and just soaked in the view.

wrenwood

6/21
No alarm clock today, slept in and had a great breakfast. Bella Vista has so many breakfast choices and the quality is excellent.

We dressed in layers and packed some extra warm clothes and headed down to town to catch the cog railway up to Gornergrat where the temperature was about 28 degrees F. Fresh snow had fallen the night before, and although the Matterhorn refused to show herself ( very moody mountain, it must be female!) the mountains to the other side were quite clear and interesting to watch. We counted six glaciers, the expansiveness reminded us of Alaska. There was a man sitting on a rock close by who was sketching the one mountain and the way the glacier ribboned down from the top. I wish I had the patience to do that. We got some hot chocolate and just sat a while, they have warm pillows and blankets available for the chairs. Explored a little more, took more pictures and then got back on the train and headed down to Riffelberg.

We walked around Riffelberg waiting to see if Ms. Matterhorn would show herself, but not to be. I took a lot of pictures of Alpine plants, it is just beautiful walking and doing nothing.

Got back on the railway and went down to Riffelalp and headed out on one of the trails. We took the trail all the way down into Zermatt, a descent of about 2200 feet. It took us 5 hours as I was stopping so often to take pictures of the wildflowers, or try to identify one I didn't know. My husband is a very patient man!

The wildflowers were utterly amazing, both in beauty and variety. You could easily see different ecosystems by the type of plant groups that were growing in different places. Some areas were obviously drier,some wetter, some more acidic or alkaline. Several places on the trail still had quite a bit of snow, and in those areas the lower branches of the Larch trees were not yet fully leafed out (or should I say "needled out"?)

We did get some glimpses of the top of the Matterhorn as we hiked down, very pretty when framed by tree branches. At one point on the way down as we got closer to Zermatt there was an older lady and a young girl ahead of us. Seemed to be maybe a girl with her grandmother. They were holding hands and seemed to be the best of friends. They were talking constantly, a time or two the grandmother (?) stopped and drew something in the dirt with her walking stick, or stopped and pointed to something with it, all the time the both of them laughing and talking. It was wonderful to watch them share their walk and time together, not something we see often in the US.

Since we ended up in Zermatt close to dinner time, we walked around a little bit and then went back to Walliserkanne for dinner. I had some great Spaetzle, husband again had pizza not as good. But I wouldn't hesitate to tell someone to try the restaurant, it's very pleasant, good service, and my dinners were good! Maybe depends on what you order.

Back up the hill to Bella Vista and our lovely balcony and the Plum Liqueur

Ingo

So sorry about your bad experience in Italy but I guess the positive experiences in Switzerland outweighed that. Had probably been a good idea to get off in Menaggio instead of going all the way to Lugano.

Glad to see you're posting again ;-)

I.

wrenwood

Hi Ingo, how was Munich? We plan to go there someday.

I'm getting another break from a busy work schedule as my husband had a business seminar In Ohio (I shopped) and now we are in Indiana visting several of his family.

Oh yes, the good experiences FAR FAR FAR outweigh the bad experiences. And it wasn't really terrible, it was just so surprising. And we will try Italy again, next year in fact, as that is a place my sister-in-law wants to visit.