cboris

Hi all,

I don't even know where to start... We have been dreaming about an 8 week trip to France & Italy for 10 years, it is almost here, and I'm stumbling with my planning after reading many, many reports of how crowded and hot Italy will be. Our trip will need to be during the summer since I'm not up for the task of homeschooling my 7 & 9 year old children.

I guess I was naive going into this. We spent 2 1/2 weeks in Provence & on the Cote D'Azur in July and I have no memories of it being hot or crowded. I don't know if it was a particularly lovely year, if I'm in denial, or if Italy is way more hot and crowded than France.

I have booked the first 6 weeks of the trip: the first 4 weeks in France, a week in Chianti and a week split between Florence and Venice. 3 of the France weeks are in the country or on the coast, as cities are obviously less appealing this time of year.

For our week 7 location, the area that most appeals to me is the Amalfi Coast, but I've read so many reports of how miserable it will be this time of year based on crowds and heat.

I'm having a hard time getting excited about the Lakes, but that would be my second choice. In any case, I also hear that the Lakes are miserably crowded. (I know there are at least 3 lakes in the region and they are large and I am generalizing, but since it isn't my first choice, I haven't done extensive research on this area.)

If you were forced to be in Italy in August, would you choose somewhere in the Lakes or the Amalfi Coast? Or if your answer is a strong "neither!", do you have another idea for me? I have skimmed an entire Italy guide book and nothing else (besides Lakes & Amalfi Coast) jumped out at me. I mean, I would love to see ALL of Italy, really, but specifically for week 7 of this trip, nothing else seemed as appealing as the 2 areas I'm asking about here.

In case this influences your advice, we would hope to rent a house or apartment, and so we would like to stay in one place for the whole week, both because most places require this, and to cut down on the packing and unpacking.

Oh, we'll be ending in Rome, since we fly out of FCO, so I'd love to be on the water somewhere for our next-to-last week. (Even a rocky beach; every time I mention the rocky beaches to my husband as a negative my son calls out "I love rocky beaches!")

Thank you so much! You have no idea how much information I have gotten from you all!

cboris

Just so you know, I am reading the "North or South of Italy for honeymoon" thread, I don't mean to make you all replicate all of your posts. I just thought since I am not flexible on timing, not on a honeymoon, travelling with children, etc., there might be some different advice.

In particular, just read from zeppole "The absolute worst time is the August holiday -- the last two weeks of August. This is when all of Italy and most of Europe goes on vacation, so you get mobs, maximum expense, and it is stinking hot to boot."

I do believe what you're saying! And really, if you feel like what you wrote on that thread answers my question, know that I will keep up with that thread as well so you don't have to duplicate.

Thanks.

annhig

Hi cboris,

first of all, I've never been to the amalfi in August. But we did take our kids to Lake Garda one august, and yes it was hot, yes to was crowded [in places], yes it was touristy. but it was also lovely, charming, and interesting, with plenty of room on the boats [best way to get around] and even on the buses. we never failed to get a table at a restaurant, and we didn't have to queue at the cable car or the waterpark, though there were long queues at Garda land. [our fault for going!]

there are other options of course. what about one of the national parks, or the dolomites? they might be crowded but probably not as crowded as the amalfi or the lakes.

StCirq

There are beaches south of Rome, but not on the Amalfi Coast, that, while crowded, won't be standing room only. Check out Sperlonga, Gaeta, Terracina. The Italian D-Day town of Anzio is in that area as well - interesting museum and cemeteries (and you can go out to the island of Ponza from there). North of Rome, check out Monte Argentario.

I've been in Stresa on Lago Maggiore in August and while it was crowded and hot, it wasn't at all unbearable (if I had to do it over again, though, I'd head to Lake Orta, which is where we ended up driving to most days).

zeppole

Hi,

A lot of people are going to rush into tell you not to listen to the naysayers, that these places are crowded because they are so wonderful, and go and have a wonderful time. You know yourself better than the rest of do. Obviously some people could care less that the Amalfi is packed. It is packed every year -- often with the same people! It's no big secret in Europe that the beach is a zoo in August.

It is extremely difficult to find a seacoast in Italy that is not packed to the gills in the last two weeks of August (and the first 2 are not much better). At other times of year, when everybody is cramming into the Amalfi, you can go down the road to Cilento and have the place to yourself. but in August, not really.

One place I might consider is the island of Elba.

By the way, I am "forced" to be in Italy in August. I live here -- on the Italian Riviera. I spent last August in Bologna, but my favorite Italian bolt hole is the valle d'Aosta -- not reasonable if you are flying out of Rome.

I don't know what to suggest. if you go to the Amalfi, rent a place with a way to get to that rocky beach on foot and lower your expectations about day tripping.

zeppole

PS: You can read this report of the area that St Cirq is talking about -- which talks about how in July and August, the area is just as crowded as the Amalfi. Since she mentioned she went ta a lake in August, I wonder why she didnt mention what time of year she had been to beaches south of Rome.

So maybe St Cirq will be so kind as to tell everybody just which August it was she was in that area, because I don't think anybody who has ever been there in the last 2 weeks in August would suggest you go there in hopes of not finding it jammed.

Anyway, whatever she says now, it would be really silly for you to give up going to the Amalfi for a lesser place because somebody on the internet told you it wouldn't be crowded.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/200...familyholidays

Wa145nzJeffery

I've been in both places in August and I must admit that I found the lakes easier to get around. The AC is a nightmare to navigate when it's busy whereas on the lakes you can use the ferries and the joiurney becomes part of the fun 9and it's cooler out on the lake).

laurie_ann

I don't have a specific recommendation but google +best +family +beaches +italy and there are some good things to look into. Here are some examples:

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/201...beaches-europe

http://www.childfriendly.co.uk/desti...italian-lakes/

I think experiencing a holiday place in full swing in another country is a great experience.

zeppole

Just read annhg's post. I've never been to the Dolomiti in August, because I have always heard it is packed to the gills.

annhig

I've never been to the Dolomiti in August, because I have always heard it is packed to the gills.>>

well, that's the problem, isn't it, Zeppole? unless you go, how are you going to find out?

cboris

Thanks for all of your input and suggestions thus far. This all makes me feel better. I feel like I've done well thus far in my planning and all of a sudden I was starting to feel completely defeated.

Zeppole, you said "if you go to the Amalfi, rent a place with a way to get to that rocky beach on foot and lower your expectations about day tripping."

I usually want to be in the thick of things, but I think you are absolutely right. We don't plan to have a car, so I'll do some research and see if there's a place that is somewhat out of the way, but not completely isolated so we can do SOME day trips. I did hope to at least walk to restaurants for dinner, though.

I think I read a trip report from Cilento (though I'm not positive that is the town I was reading about) and was wondering if that was a better option, so thank you for pointing out that it will be similarly crowded.

annhig, you said "yes it was hot, yes to was crowded [in places], yes it was touristy. but it was also lovely, charming, and interesting".

After I started the thread, I walked away and thought that what I should have asked is if, in your opinion, I would end my week in either location thinking, "that was hell, I'll never do that again!" Of course you don't know me, so you can't answer for me, but I'd be curious to hear what people would say to that. It was heartening to read of your experience in the Lakes, whether we go there or the AC, perhaps we'll leave with the same sentiment you did.

I will look at the other options mentioned, Lake Orta, Maggiore, Sperlonga, etc.

Oh and zeppole, I think you may have been serious, but I did chuckle to myself when you said the Dolimiti are packed to the gills. I mean, at some point, this trying to avoid the crowds gets sort of ridiculous!

I think some people are more sensitive to crowds and others are not, I wouldn't think of myself as someone who really tries to avoid them, but some of the answers on the aforementioned honeymoon thread were making me think I was nuts to think we could enjoy ourselves.

Just rereading from the "honeymoon thread". "You can join the lines to get on the boats, but it really is a zoo. Don't go imaginging you'd be doing lots of day trips. Only go if you want to stay in one town and relax on a terrace with a view and a cocktail."

I think the lines to get on the boats was one of the things that put me over the edge, but on reading it again, I think that sitting on a terrace with a view and a cocktail sounds like heaven.

Well, I see there's another "heat in August" thread going around so I will go see what is being said there.

I really appreciate all of your help! I spend nearly every hour that my children are at school researching this trip, and much of that time is on this board, and as I said before, it has helped enormously!

annhig

I really appreciate all of your help! I spend nearly every hour that my children are at school researching this trip, and much of that time is on this board, and as I said before, it has helped enormously!>>

beware, cb, holiday planning can become addictive. "what if we went to?....if I just tweeked?.. perhaps we could....." the danger is that you spend so much time planning your perfect trip that the reality can never live up to your fantasy. that said, there are some obvious pitfalls. there is no point in planning a holiday based round lounging on the beach [or the terrace] if you have active kids who need to let off steam regularly. but you might have a wonderful time at a hotel in the mountains where you can walk all day and the kids are so tired in the evening that they sleep whilst you enjoy your glass [or two] of wine.

see where I'm going with this? with kids of the age of yours, whether it's mountains or lakes, or a national park, that is probably going to be more successful for them [and therefore you] than a week sat on a terrace drinking cocktails, however drop-dead gorgeous the views!

nytraveler

Well - I would have done the trip in reverse - Ialy first, followed by france, to avoid the worst of the heat and crowds in Italy. And August will be hot - figure 90s and humid - with the lakes somewhat cooler but just as crowded.

We usually do Italy in the second half of May to get pleasant weather and moderate crowds. I can't even begin to contemplate doing this with 2 kids in August (and I live in NY, which is often hot/humid and very crowded - but nothing like as bad as Italy).

If it's a choice between the lakes and Amalfi - definitely do the lakes. Better yet - head up to Switzerland, where the temps are reasonable and crowds not so bad (although it will be much more expensive). If we vacation in midsummer we do either Switz or Scandinavia - unless we just do the Hamptons.

Weadles

Our family has been to both in August because like you, it was the only time we could all get away. Much as I prefer the Amalfi Coast ( for me it's not even close because I'm a foodie!) I would head to the lakes. I still vividly remember bumper to bumper traffic on the Amalfi Coast, and not even being able to find any empty seats for rent on the beach in Positano. UGH. While the lakes weren't much better, at least it wasn't 90 degrees, and we weren't shuffling through town in heavy crowds to get to lunch or dinner!

zeppole

A poster named NeoPatrick once posted on Fodor's that we all have to put up with crowds if we want to see some of the world's most famous places, but there is a difference between being stuck in a crowd in the Vatican and stuck in a crowd in a place where the whole reason the place got famous was for its remote, tranquil beauty.

I don't think it is ridiculous to try to avoid the crowds in the Dolomiti or Capri. I can't imagine wanting to be in either place if I couldn't get any feeling for the majesty of the scenery for being surrounded by other people --- and my experience of tourists desperate to have FUN is that they are more grim and annoying company than most other kinds of crowds.

It sounds to me like undoing your trip at this point would be a major hassle. You can always find people who will tell you that "there, there, you'll still have fun." But what you are getting on this thread is some very honest reports that people who went to the Amalfi in August would never want that experience again.

Anywhere you go near Rome or Napoli that is "beach" in August is going to be heaving with mobs of people. (That includes Sperlonga). If you go anywhere near water around the border of German and Italy and Switzerland you are also going to find mobs.

I think I'd pack playing cards, get an apartment with a wonderful garden and plenty of room, try to find some town that has a decent market so I wasn't battling my way into a restuarant every night. And I pass along this tip: When you find yourself in a mobbed tourist town, walk up hill. It gets lonelier and lonelier the higher up you go. Eventually you find an Italian grandmother all alone, sitting outside, enjoying the sun. She'll smile at you.

zeppole

(PS: The reason that grandmother is smiling is that she's never planned a vacation.)

mama_mia

If you decide against the lakes or Amalfi, you might consider Southern Tuscany or Southwest Umbria. I am thinking a hill town (which will be pleasant after tourists leave) or an agriturismo with pool. You would need a car if you choose to do day trips, but in this area, you might consider the following:

Orvieto: a few underground tours. St. Patrick's Well and the tours of caves under the city would be cool.

Chiusi: Has underground tours--one features an underground lake

Etruscan Tombs in area: I imagine some of these would be cooler since most are under earth

Lago di Bolsena: (not too far from Orvieto but in province of Viterbo) I was not here in August, and I imagine it too may be crowded, but it may not be bad for a day trip. Some towns border it with view of lake--Montefiascone, for example

Thermal baths/spas: Saturna gets crowded, apparently, but there are other options, like Chianciano Terme and Bagna Vignoni

Just a thought for another option with some cool possibilities involving water or underground experiences.

Mimar

I vote for the lakes also. With a car so you can escape if necessary -- as StCirq did. Whereas on the Amalfi coast there's nowhere to escape to without waiting in line for a bus or a boat and/or getting caught in traffic. Anywhere on the Italian coast will be crowded in August.

latedaytraveler

Cboris, I have been to the Lakes twice in July-August. Yes, they are crowded but still magnificent. Let’s face it, the “season” for enjoying the Lakes is shorter than that for “doing” Almalfi.

I agree with NYTraveler about a jaunt to Switzerland while in the area. All the Lakes are beautiful, but we particularly loved the area in the northern end of Lake Garda.

And do try to visit the Dolomites. We took a train ride up the mountains on a beautiful day and heard the cowbells below us as the cattle grazed lazily on the sweet summer grass. Children would love this scene right out of Heidi...

Ann1

Our family is in Ischia (sister island to Capri) and we stay away in July and especially August. You cannot move on the islands/Amalfi in August.....literally. One year we were in Tuscany at the end of August. We were watching television. There was a solid line of bumper to bumper traffic from Salerno to Rome. Everyone was going home from their month vacation. The lines waiting for buses to go from town to town in horrendous. As mentioned before...anywhere there is beaches, there are a ton of people. I agree with Tuscany or Umbria. When we were there in August, yes, it was brutally hot, but it wasn't packed with people.

As far as the heat, August is a hot month no matter where you go in Italy. I live in Central Virginia now and we get 104C for a couple of weeks. If you are sensitive to heat...make sure they have AC because it is not a given in Italy.

Sicily is the same as far as vacationers in August.