WHY ROMANIA???
Nov 12th, 2007, 05:31 AM
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WHY ROMANIA???
this is the question everyone asks us... i'm not sure that i have a concise answer to this question, but in general the following will have to do....
it was about as far into europe as our FF miles would take us.....it seemed a bit unexplored by normal tourism.....in fact it seemed a bit on the edge....there was not a great deal written about it on Fodors...it seemed a bit exotic for a europe adventure....it seemed like it might be similar to the czech republic 25 years ago...lastly we knew noone who had been there....
so about a year ago the planning began in earnest....
it was about as far into europe as our FF miles would take us.....it seemed a bit unexplored by normal tourism.....in fact it seemed a bit on the edge....there was not a great deal written about it on Fodors...it seemed a bit exotic for a europe adventure....it seemed like it might be similar to the czech republic 25 years ago...lastly we knew noone who had been there....
so about a year ago the planning began in earnest....
Nov 12th, 2007, 06:27 AM
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We are going there for the first time in May and can hardly wait! From what I have seen and read it is real, raw, gorgeous, intriguing, full of character and history, etc.
We have found the further East we have gone the more we love it!
We have found the further East we have gone the more we love it!
Nov 12th, 2007, 06:39 AM
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The right answer would be...and why not ? 
I have a close friend from there and she says the country is developing quickly (it is a member of the EU now), probably in a few years it won't be as cheap and won't have the old character it has now. Some other things will improve, of course, and the wonderful forests and countryside will hopefully still be there
But don't think it is "exotic", every year more and more people choose Romania ( and other East countries) for holidays here in Europe thanks to the low cost flights
I have a close friend from there and she says the country is developing quickly (it is a member of the EU now), probably in a few years it won't be as cheap and won't have the old character it has now. Some other things will improve, of course, and the wonderful forests and countryside will hopefully still be there
But don't think it is "exotic", every year more and more people choose Romania ( and other East countries) for holidays here in Europe thanks to the low cost flights
Nov 12th, 2007, 06:43 AM
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first thing required securing plane tickets and that was easily done via American Airline's FF desk....the routing from Boston was via London, so this allowed us to tack on a week long stop over in england on the way home, to visit friends....
we took the day flight from boston leaving at 9AM...we have taken these day flights before and they are super....it did require an overnite stay at heathrow however....you arrive in london at 7:30PM which allows for a dinner stop and a good nites sleep....i did a priceline for slough/windsor area on the UK priceline site and received the Marriott Courtyard in Slough on my first attempt for 35 pounds (about $75)...we have stayed there before so that was perfect and the price was right....next i had to decide if we would taxi there and back, or if a rental car would provide more flexibility, which is what i decided upon...i had recently come upon a good, new to me, car rental site (www.carrentals.com)...i booked an intermediate sized car for 33.78 pounds, inclusive, for the day...good price for a one day rental i felt....note: their prices change often so keep checking back to secure the lowest rate....they represent a number of car companies and we ended up with alamo and a citreon picasso which was perfect and very comfortable....too big almost...
so i had day one taken care of...
now the research began in earnest...first stop was fodors, where i found some good info, especially Clifton's comprehensive report.....stu tower, whom we know from the asia board, provided even more detailed and personal info for us...as you may know he has written books about romania and its people...he provided very detailed info about touring and hotels....
our local library and amazon.com offered very little info or resources....i did buy a rough guide to romania which was helpful...along the way our library purchased the new lonely planet guide to romania so this was a help also and up to date....
our thai friend, gal, and his dad, fredi in israel, provided additional info on
visiting romania....fredi was born in romania and often revisits there...
so things seemed under control as planning began in earnest....
i had a trip outline from a romanian tour guide, so this assisted me as an outline for a potential trip....i meshed this with the info from stu, clifton, fredi and my own research and came up with a decent plan....along the way we visited the romanian tourist office in nyc and the manager there gave us tons of written info and assistance in trip planning...he sat us down in their office and helped with initial planning....as we left he said to e mail him our plans and he would comment on them and we did this with great success...his comments were very helpful and allowed me to tweek the route a bit....
i then needed to decide if we would have a guide/driver or do it all myself....i was concerned about the condition of the roads if i were to drive myself....finally i decided that i could drive as i have almost every place else that we have visited, so this allowed us total flexibility....
we took the day flight from boston leaving at 9AM...we have taken these day flights before and they are super....it did require an overnite stay at heathrow however....you arrive in london at 7:30PM which allows for a dinner stop and a good nites sleep....i did a priceline for slough/windsor area on the UK priceline site and received the Marriott Courtyard in Slough on my first attempt for 35 pounds (about $75)...we have stayed there before so that was perfect and the price was right....next i had to decide if we would taxi there and back, or if a rental car would provide more flexibility, which is what i decided upon...i had recently come upon a good, new to me, car rental site (www.carrentals.com)...i booked an intermediate sized car for 33.78 pounds, inclusive, for the day...good price for a one day rental i felt....note: their prices change often so keep checking back to secure the lowest rate....they represent a number of car companies and we ended up with alamo and a citreon picasso which was perfect and very comfortable....too big almost...
so i had day one taken care of...
now the research began in earnest...first stop was fodors, where i found some good info, especially Clifton's comprehensive report.....stu tower, whom we know from the asia board, provided even more detailed and personal info for us...as you may know he has written books about romania and its people...he provided very detailed info about touring and hotels....
our local library and amazon.com offered very little info or resources....i did buy a rough guide to romania which was helpful...along the way our library purchased the new lonely planet guide to romania so this was a help also and up to date....
our thai friend, gal, and his dad, fredi in israel, provided additional info on
visiting romania....fredi was born in romania and often revisits there...
so things seemed under control as planning began in earnest....
i had a trip outline from a romanian tour guide, so this assisted me as an outline for a potential trip....i meshed this with the info from stu, clifton, fredi and my own research and came up with a decent plan....along the way we visited the romanian tourist office in nyc and the manager there gave us tons of written info and assistance in trip planning...he sat us down in their office and helped with initial planning....as we left he said to e mail him our plans and he would comment on them and we did this with great success...his comments were very helpful and allowed me to tweek the route a bit....
i then needed to decide if we would have a guide/driver or do it all myself....i was concerned about the condition of the roads if i were to drive myself....finally i decided that i could drive as i have almost every place else that we have visited, so this allowed us total flexibility....
Nov 12th, 2007, 07:24 AM
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Hey Bob,
looking forward to read more about your adventures in Romania. Hm, since you could drive that certain car on that certain Island you should be able to drive any car on any road in Romania ;-)
Ingo
PS: I enviously notice that you are *way* ahead with the work on your trip report compared to me
looking forward to read more about your adventures in Romania. Hm, since you could drive that certain car on that certain Island you should be able to drive any car on any road in Romania ;-)
Ingo
PS: I enviously notice that you are *way* ahead with the work on your trip report compared to me
Nov 12th, 2007, 07:27 AM
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I visited Bucharest and the surrounding area (including Brasov and Bran) in 2004, and there very few tourists in Bucharest, and only a few in Brasov (lots at Bran). There's great train service between Bucharest and Bran.
There's plenty to see in Bucharest, and I had a very busy few days (based at the Athenee Hilton, where I had a lot of luck at the casino -- in fact, I paid my entire room bill with my winnings -- I have never had such a lucky streak).
Michael
There's plenty to see in Bucharest, and I had a very busy few days (based at the Athenee Hilton, where I had a lot of luck at the casino -- in fact, I paid my entire room bill with my winnings -- I have never had such a lucky streak).
Michael
Nov 12th, 2007, 07:45 AM
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so now to the trip directly....
our driver Hedley picked us up at 6:30AM...easy trip to logan airport....check-in was smooth...btw, the taxes for the FF tickets were a high of $180.40 each...i guess that is cheap bacause that the same trip priced out at $1904. each....quick flight even with circling heathrow for about 10-15 minutes....only our flight was in immigration so we passed quickly and our bags were the first out on the belt.... off to alamo for the car and we were on the M-4 in no time headed for slough.....off the highway in the usual place and started to look for the hotel...only thing we saw was a holiday inn....strange....we kept going for 5 minutes and finally asked in a gas station....seems hotel changed from Courtyard to Holiday Inn last summer....so back we went...easy check-in...back out to get something to eat....not all that hungry as the food was actually quite decent on the AA flight....we decided on take-out pizza from a local pizza hut and beers....we ordered and took it back to our room at the HI....Perfect...into bed and a good nites sleep...
up early and off to return the car...our 9:55AM flight to Bucharest was on British Air...its about a 3 hour flight...
breakfast at Heathrow...WOW are things expensive!!
the flight was right on time and comfortable with a free seat between us---3/3...again a decent meal---almost too much to believe...
we landed in Bucharest about 3PM....
immigration and customs were a breeze....no visa required for US citizens....airport was drab at best...
i had not pre-arranged transportation so we walked through the maze of people to the outside....we had been forewarned about gypsie taxi drivers, many of whom approached us....
there was a line of identical taxis at curbside....a man approached and asked where we were going and i told him the Intercontinental Hotel...he was the organizer for this group of taxis....his price to the city center was 70 Ron, about $30... i had withdrawn Ron from the ATM in the airport....rate about 2.3 to the dollar....
the ride took about 1 1/2 hours, even though it was only 16 km...heavy traffic and very inefficient roadworks and construction all along the way.... our driver was an unemployed engineer and spoke decent english...he was a nice introduction to romania....
the first thing we noticed was the huge amount of grafitti everywhere...
some of the buildings were moderately attractive and we drove through an old upscale area which had belonged to a former era of elegance and wealth...huge attractive but rundown houses...
we arrived at the Intercontinental in University Square....site of the 1989 uprising....its a high rise---i think the tallest building in Bucharest...lobby was attractive and the usual western standard...
our room was on the 18th floor which offered us a nice view of the city and even the huge parliament building....
in the next segment i will tell you about my "deal" at this hotel...
our driver Hedley picked us up at 6:30AM...easy trip to logan airport....check-in was smooth...btw, the taxes for the FF tickets were a high of $180.40 each...i guess that is cheap bacause that the same trip priced out at $1904. each....quick flight even with circling heathrow for about 10-15 minutes....only our flight was in immigration so we passed quickly and our bags were the first out on the belt.... off to alamo for the car and we were on the M-4 in no time headed for slough.....off the highway in the usual place and started to look for the hotel...only thing we saw was a holiday inn....strange....we kept going for 5 minutes and finally asked in a gas station....seems hotel changed from Courtyard to Holiday Inn last summer....so back we went...easy check-in...back out to get something to eat....not all that hungry as the food was actually quite decent on the AA flight....we decided on take-out pizza from a local pizza hut and beers....we ordered and took it back to our room at the HI....Perfect...into bed and a good nites sleep...
up early and off to return the car...our 9:55AM flight to Bucharest was on British Air...its about a 3 hour flight...
breakfast at Heathrow...WOW are things expensive!!
the flight was right on time and comfortable with a free seat between us---3/3...again a decent meal---almost too much to believe...
we landed in Bucharest about 3PM....
immigration and customs were a breeze....no visa required for US citizens....airport was drab at best...
i had not pre-arranged transportation so we walked through the maze of people to the outside....we had been forewarned about gypsie taxi drivers, many of whom approached us....
there was a line of identical taxis at curbside....a man approached and asked where we were going and i told him the Intercontinental Hotel...he was the organizer for this group of taxis....his price to the city center was 70 Ron, about $30... i had withdrawn Ron from the ATM in the airport....rate about 2.3 to the dollar....
the ride took about 1 1/2 hours, even though it was only 16 km...heavy traffic and very inefficient roadworks and construction all along the way.... our driver was an unemployed engineer and spoke decent english...he was a nice introduction to romania....
the first thing we noticed was the huge amount of grafitti everywhere...
some of the buildings were moderately attractive and we drove through an old upscale area which had belonged to a former era of elegance and wealth...huge attractive but rundown houses...
we arrived at the Intercontinental in University Square....site of the 1989 uprising....its a high rise---i think the tallest building in Bucharest...lobby was attractive and the usual western standard...
our room was on the 18th floor which offered us a nice view of the city and even the huge parliament building....
in the next segment i will tell you about my "deal" at this hotel...
Nov 12th, 2007, 08:00 AM
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while seeking info on fodors for the trip, one member told me of their great luck with intercontinental....not to bore you with the details, but i purchased 15,000 FF points from them and for 5,000 per nite got the room at Intercontinetal...all for $150 total....the normal rate there is over 200 euros per nite....so we got a real bargain....thank you to who ever contacted me with that info...
our room was large and comfortable and served us well during our stay...it was very centrally located for what we wanted to do...
the staff was what i refer to as "correct"....that is they answered questions asked but were by no means warm and friendly....they never offered more info than what we had asked...this included the conceige with whom i had exchanged e mails concerning concert tickets...
we asked about a place for dinner...local color and food...they sent us to a lovely place just in back of the hotel---a 3 minute walk, called Burebista...the American Embassy is directly across the street from it.., they made a reservation for us ...
the decor was romanian, the food was romanian...a very pleasant place...the live music was loud but we soon learned to deal with this as it is common in romania...
the first place we were seated was on a balcony right by the front door and i asked if we might be reseated....we were given a small table on the ground floor which was perfect....we were now 3, as just next to our table was the stuffed remains of a white bear sitting on his hind legs....he was a very pleasant dinner companion....(guenmai, you would have loved him)...
seated next to us was a young german couple and their well behaved young daughter....we had some pleasant conversations....the father is working outside Bucharest on an extended project involving trash disposal...they were very pleasant....
our room was large and comfortable and served us well during our stay...it was very centrally located for what we wanted to do...
the staff was what i refer to as "correct"....that is they answered questions asked but were by no means warm and friendly....they never offered more info than what we had asked...this included the conceige with whom i had exchanged e mails concerning concert tickets...
we asked about a place for dinner...local color and food...they sent us to a lovely place just in back of the hotel---a 3 minute walk, called Burebista...the American Embassy is directly across the street from it.., they made a reservation for us ...
the decor was romanian, the food was romanian...a very pleasant place...the live music was loud but we soon learned to deal with this as it is common in romania...
the first place we were seated was on a balcony right by the front door and i asked if we might be reseated....we were given a small table on the ground floor which was perfect....we were now 3, as just next to our table was the stuffed remains of a white bear sitting on his hind legs....he was a very pleasant dinner companion....(guenmai, you would have loved him)...
seated next to us was a young german couple and their well behaved young daughter....we had some pleasant conversations....the father is working outside Bucharest on an extended project involving trash disposal...they were very pleasant....
Nov 12th, 2007, 08:16 AM
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while ordering our dinner, the waitress, in native costume, asked if we would like to have a typical romanian appetiser of cured meats and salad...we said sure...that became an unhappy introduction to romania for me...more later...
the appetiser arrived and it was huge...it was meats, salad, frois gras, roulards, pastrami, pates, salad greens, cheese, roasted veggies...it was quite delicious...
our main courses were bear stew for me and chicken in a thick white cream sauce for karen.... both came with risotto...we also ordered a grilled veggie plate...i need my veggies... i had beer and karen had white wine... 159 ron total...
our room did not come with breakfast so we had visited a local bakery before dinner to buy breakfast rolls....at that time we also bought some pastry desserts for after dinner....they were uniformly delicious....the place was called the French Bakery and was on an adjacent street to the hotel...we went there each morning for breakfast...
did not give the price a thought as i still was not used to the currency exchange...
karen began her diary after our return to the room and i organized my paperwork for the trip....we ate our delicious french pastry....at some point i thought the dinner was quite expensive....i looked at the bill karen had taken and could not figure it out....there were so many entries and it was all in romanian....the price was about $70 when i did the conversion...i had had the wrong conversion amount in my mind...
why was this simple dinner so much??
off to bed as we were tired...
the appetiser arrived and it was huge...it was meats, salad, frois gras, roulards, pastrami, pates, salad greens, cheese, roasted veggies...it was quite delicious...
our main courses were bear stew for me and chicken in a thick white cream sauce for karen.... both came with risotto...we also ordered a grilled veggie plate...i need my veggies... i had beer and karen had white wine... 159 ron total...
our room did not come with breakfast so we had visited a local bakery before dinner to buy breakfast rolls....at that time we also bought some pastry desserts for after dinner....they were uniformly delicious....the place was called the French Bakery and was on an adjacent street to the hotel...we went there each morning for breakfast...
did not give the price a thought as i still was not used to the currency exchange...
karen began her diary after our return to the room and i organized my paperwork for the trip....we ate our delicious french pastry....at some point i thought the dinner was quite expensive....i looked at the bill karen had taken and could not figure it out....there were so many entries and it was all in romanian....the price was about $70 when i did the conversion...i had had the wrong conversion amount in my mind...
why was this simple dinner so much??
off to bed as we were tired...
Nov 12th, 2007, 08:25 AM
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up about 8:15 the next morning....we had not bought breakfast pastry the nite before as reported earlier, but in fact walked over to the French Bakery for breakfast and some really good coffee for K....
i had decided to ask the conceige about the bill from the nite before as he had sent us there....i showed it to him....he was non-plussed...he explained, matter-of-factly, that many of the entries were for pate and the like and were very expensive...i then discovered that the "typical romanian appetiser" had cost over 1/2 of our dinner bill and in fact cost about $45.....i was furious...i felt ripped off...
i told the conciege that they should speak to the restaurant about this, but he said no as he saw no problem with it....he said these were expensive items on the appetiser and in fact were cheap in comparison to paris, say....i reminded him that we were in bucharest, not in paris....
this also made me mad....as we were discussing it, the german woman greeted us.....they also were quite mad about it....
live and learn...
i had decided to ask the conceige about the bill from the nite before as he had sent us there....i showed it to him....he was non-plussed...he explained, matter-of-factly, that many of the entries were for pate and the like and were very expensive...i then discovered that the "typical romanian appetiser" had cost over 1/2 of our dinner bill and in fact cost about $45.....i was furious...i felt ripped off...
i told the conciege that they should speak to the restaurant about this, but he said no as he saw no problem with it....he said these were expensive items on the appetiser and in fact were cheap in comparison to paris, say....i reminded him that we were in bucharest, not in paris....
this also made me mad....as we were discussing it, the german woman greeted us.....they also were quite mad about it....
live and learn...
Nov 12th, 2007, 10:01 AM
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so we embarked on our first of two full days in Bucharest.....the buildings looked interesting and we were anxious to explore....we headed for new town, after asking the conceige about visiting the parliament building....this is the 2nd largest building in the world, after the US pentagon building....it was built by the former dictator as his shrine...it has never been finished....you go by appointment....so they faxed an appointment request for us for the next day at 11....
off to the old town to explore... we found many buildings to be in decent shape, even many restored....but many were in horrid condition with broken windows and the like....the city is in transition....i think they are waiting for the EU money which will certainly pour into after their jan 1, 2007 membership in the EU...
this country must have more churches per capita than any other...many are small....in most if not all the patrons stand...the paintings and the art work is unbelievable.... the icons of silver with painted portrait inserts are very interesting...
parishioners enter the church and cross themselves at least 3 times....they then proceed to kiss many of the artifacts in the church...must be great for spreading germs....ok, God will strike me down for saying that...
we visit the very famous old beer hall and restaurant with its painted interior...may return for dinner the next nite---carul cu berre on stavopoleos, 3...very impressive...
both of our guidbooks come in handy...
i was tired for some reason so we return to the hotel after lunch at a street-side pizza place...i never take a nap, but did that day...
the conceige had arranged theatre tickets for us for the evening, in advance....cost about $84 for two tickets...the program was called "viva opera"....it was held at the national opera house....the theatre is set in a lovely park...we took a taxi there for the early performance--6:30...all their performance are early...
the theatre was lovely and small.. and our seats were fabulous--center on the aisle....
there was a full orchestra, 8 soloists, including felicia filip, and a chorus of about 24....a full production....
the program was basically famous arias.....we loved every minute....
we had trouble getting a taxi afterwards, so decided to try the metro which was right across the street.....we bought our tickets and the ticket taker asked a man to assist us....he turned out to speak english and in fact was a member of the chorus....he was very kind and gave us great instructions and in fact stayed with us 3/4 of the way back to university plaza, our stop...
from there we walked over to a restaurant we had seen near the french bakery the day before...its called pizza al forno colosseum in a passageway off of valea victaiien, 48/50....delicious italian dinner...69 Ron for 4 beers, 2 desserts, 2 green salads and 1 chicken with mushrooms and one one pasta dish....delicious...good choice...
off to bed....
i will continue tonight...
bob
off to the old town to explore... we found many buildings to be in decent shape, even many restored....but many were in horrid condition with broken windows and the like....the city is in transition....i think they are waiting for the EU money which will certainly pour into after their jan 1, 2007 membership in the EU...
this country must have more churches per capita than any other...many are small....in most if not all the patrons stand...the paintings and the art work is unbelievable.... the icons of silver with painted portrait inserts are very interesting...
parishioners enter the church and cross themselves at least 3 times....they then proceed to kiss many of the artifacts in the church...must be great for spreading germs....ok, God will strike me down for saying that...
we visit the very famous old beer hall and restaurant with its painted interior...may return for dinner the next nite---carul cu berre on stavopoleos, 3...very impressive...
both of our guidbooks come in handy...
i was tired for some reason so we return to the hotel after lunch at a street-side pizza place...i never take a nap, but did that day...
the conceige had arranged theatre tickets for us for the evening, in advance....cost about $84 for two tickets...the program was called "viva opera"....it was held at the national opera house....the theatre is set in a lovely park...we took a taxi there for the early performance--6:30...all their performance are early...
the theatre was lovely and small.. and our seats were fabulous--center on the aisle....
there was a full orchestra, 8 soloists, including felicia filip, and a chorus of about 24....a full production....
the program was basically famous arias.....we loved every minute....
we had trouble getting a taxi afterwards, so decided to try the metro which was right across the street.....we bought our tickets and the ticket taker asked a man to assist us....he turned out to speak english and in fact was a member of the chorus....he was very kind and gave us great instructions and in fact stayed with us 3/4 of the way back to university plaza, our stop...
from there we walked over to a restaurant we had seen near the french bakery the day before...its called pizza al forno colosseum in a passageway off of valea victaiien, 48/50....delicious italian dinner...69 Ron for 4 beers, 2 desserts, 2 green salads and 1 chicken with mushrooms and one one pasta dish....delicious...good choice...
off to bed....
i will continue tonight...
bob
Nov 12th, 2007, 10:36 AM
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Bob, I am really happy to be reading your report, and loved the idea of an early concert, filled with arias.
As to the giant stuffed bear in the restaurant, are you certain it wasn't gpanda? Was it wearing a Speedo, by chance? I also noted you had bear stew as an entree, so I thought this much too coincidental.
Waiting for more..my best to you and K.
BC
As to the giant stuffed bear in the restaurant, are you certain it wasn't gpanda? Was it wearing a Speedo, by chance? I also noted you had bear stew as an entree, so I thought this much too coincidental.
Waiting for more..my best to you and K.
BC
Nov 12th, 2007, 11:55 AM
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No, gpanda, when I use "methinks", it is not an oxymoron. I won't speculate here about when others use it.
Romanian pandas??? Wonder if Bob saw any in his travels. Guess we'll have to wait for the next part of his report.
BC
Romanian pandas??? Wonder if Bob saw any in his travels. Guess we'll have to wait for the next part of his report.
BC
