Which are the best Châteaux in the Loire Valley?
Dec 20th, 2011, 04:55 AM
#21
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Montresor is delightful (and very dog friendly, the staff insisted we bring Raisin along for our visit). You can see most of it one your own. Time it right and you'll have it almost to yourself; time it wrong and you will be seeing it with one or more Polish tour groups
Many chateaux are in private hands and not open to the public, so it's doubtful one person has seen every single one, but nonetheless, here are the ones we've shortlisted to present a variety of types:
Angers, for its tapestries, for not being a more typical Loire Valley pleasure palace, and for being in lovely city with a nice medieval district, friendly people and good food.
Chenonceau, for the whole combo package of looks, history, gardens
Villandry for gardens
Chambord for the boat tour around the extensive moat system. The castle itself wasn't our favourite, but we really enjoyed the guided boat tour. We took the first tour of the morning and were the only passengers, so had a great private tour.
Montresor (see above)
Nantes for its interactive displays
Bourges - it doesn't have a castle, but has several fascinating historic buildings, including a renowned cathedral, plus a very nice historic district. It's off the usal tourist radar and is within an easy drive of Sancerre for wine and goat-cheese tasting. A short drive from Bourges is Ainay le Viel, another lesser known chateau. Raisin and I had the entire gardens to ourselves while my husband toured the castle. http://www.chateaux-france.com/ainaylevieil/ Sometimes called the Petite Carcassonne
Azay-le-Rideau, but try to get there before or after the tour groups
Fougeres-sur-Bievre http://fougeres-sur-bievre.monuments-nationaux.fr/en/ , a lesser known but delightful chateau
Fontrevaud was fascinating, agree with the OP's plans to visit there.
Many chateaux are in private hands and not open to the public, so it's doubtful one person has seen every single one, but nonetheless, here are the ones we've shortlisted to present a variety of types:
Angers, for its tapestries, for not being a more typical Loire Valley pleasure palace, and for being in lovely city with a nice medieval district, friendly people and good food.
Chenonceau, for the whole combo package of looks, history, gardens
Villandry for gardens
Chambord for the boat tour around the extensive moat system. The castle itself wasn't our favourite, but we really enjoyed the guided boat tour. We took the first tour of the morning and were the only passengers, so had a great private tour.
Montresor (see above)
Nantes for its interactive displays
Bourges - it doesn't have a castle, but has several fascinating historic buildings, including a renowned cathedral, plus a very nice historic district. It's off the usal tourist radar and is within an easy drive of Sancerre for wine and goat-cheese tasting. A short drive from Bourges is Ainay le Viel, another lesser known chateau. Raisin and I had the entire gardens to ourselves while my husband toured the castle. http://www.chateaux-france.com/ainaylevieil/ Sometimes called the Petite Carcassonne
Azay-le-Rideau, but try to get there before or after the tour groups
Fougeres-sur-Bievre http://fougeres-sur-bievre.monuments-nationaux.fr/en/ , a lesser known but delightful chateau
Fontrevaud was fascinating, agree with the OP's plans to visit there.
Dec 20th, 2011, 05:41 AM
#22
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Pick up a copy of Ina Caro's "The Road from the Past"... I particularly enjoyed the section on the Loire. On 3 visits to Amboise over the years I'd missed the fact that there used to be lions kept in the moat!
Dec 20th, 2011, 07:25 AM
#23
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Chenonceau is very pretty, but it is relatively small. The grounds can take some time to explore if you want to do so.
Chambord is a monster - google Gormenghast and you'll get the concept. It has over 200 fireplaces and still was cold in the winter.
I agree that Cheverny is worth visiting w/o any reference to Tintin - we didn't know of the connection until we popped into the store.
We skipped Usse - it's a stretch to call it the Sleeping Beauty castle because it was merely an inspiration for the concept.
Villandry is all about the gardens.
All that said, do spend a decent amount of time at the Abbey de Fontevreaud - that's really something.
Chambord is a monster - google Gormenghast and you'll get the concept. It has over 200 fireplaces and still was cold in the winter.
I agree that Cheverny is worth visiting w/o any reference to Tintin - we didn't know of the connection until we popped into the store.
We skipped Usse - it's a stretch to call it the Sleeping Beauty castle because it was merely an inspiration for the concept.
Villandry is all about the gardens.
All that said, do spend a decent amount of time at the Abbey de Fontevreaud - that's really something.
Dec 20th, 2011, 07:35 AM
#24
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I agree with PalenQ about Uzès being a wonderful château to visit but it's a bit south of the Loire Valley. If the intention was to include Ussé, I believe it's best viewed with a quick drive by; there is little to see on the interior.
I like to classify recommendations geographically, east/west of Tours. There are many from which to choose but I prefer the following:
<b>East of Tours</b>
Chambord - essential to fully appreciating the area's architectural developments.
Cheverny - one of the few fully furnished examples in the Loire Valley.
Chenonceau - everyone must visit once but the crowds can be horrendous.
Blois - the most overlooked and undervalued of all of the châteaux of the Loire Valley. Visits now include admission to an art museum at the end of the tour, all very worthwhile.
If you have time: Château de Beauregard, Chaumont, le Clos Lucé (there is nothing of Leonardo's to be seen here except a few recreated models), Château Amboise which is best seen from across the Loire River. 80% of this over-rated château was destroyed during the Revolution and what is left is unremarkable given what is otherwise available to visit nearby.
Other points of interest:
Cave de la Grand Brosse - best to call Philip in advance for a visit to his winery and caves:
http://cavegrandebrosse.com/
Château de Chemery - in addition to being an old residence (dating to the 13th century), it is now a chambre d'hote allowing anyone so inclined to spend the night. Probably just as well known as the once home of French recording artist Alain Souchon (from whom the current owners purchased the property).
http://www.chateaudechemery.com/
<b>West of Tours</b>
Azay le Rideau - delightful architecture in a storybook setting.
Villandry - the gardens are the draw here however there has been a recent effort to upgrade some of the interior rooms.
If time allows: Langais, Chinon, Loches (actually all south of Tours) and Saumur.
__________
Overall, most people should limit their visits to no more than 3 châteaux a day; two would be even better as sensory overload can become a concern when trying to see too much too quickly.
I like to classify recommendations geographically, east/west of Tours. There are many from which to choose but I prefer the following:
<b>East of Tours</b>
Chambord - essential to fully appreciating the area's architectural developments.
Cheverny - one of the few fully furnished examples in the Loire Valley.
Chenonceau - everyone must visit once but the crowds can be horrendous.
Blois - the most overlooked and undervalued of all of the châteaux of the Loire Valley. Visits now include admission to an art museum at the end of the tour, all very worthwhile.
If you have time: Château de Beauregard, Chaumont, le Clos Lucé (there is nothing of Leonardo's to be seen here except a few recreated models), Château Amboise which is best seen from across the Loire River. 80% of this over-rated château was destroyed during the Revolution and what is left is unremarkable given what is otherwise available to visit nearby.
Other points of interest:
Cave de la Grand Brosse - best to call Philip in advance for a visit to his winery and caves:
http://cavegrandebrosse.com/
Château de Chemery - in addition to being an old residence (dating to the 13th century), it is now a chambre d'hote allowing anyone so inclined to spend the night. Probably just as well known as the once home of French recording artist Alain Souchon (from whom the current owners purchased the property).
http://www.chateaudechemery.com/
<b>West of Tours</b>
Azay le Rideau - delightful architecture in a storybook setting.
Villandry - the gardens are the draw here however there has been a recent effort to upgrade some of the interior rooms.
If time allows: Langais, Chinon, Loches (actually all south of Tours) and Saumur.
__________
Overall, most people should limit their visits to no more than 3 châteaux a day; two would be even better as sensory overload can become a concern when trying to see too much too quickly.
Dec 20th, 2011, 08:41 AM
#25
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Chenonceau is my favorite, and as the above shows, I am not alone.
You are staying in Loches, but I can recommend a nice place for a superb $$$ dinner, Auberge du Bon Laboureur in Chenonceaux. I stayed there one night on my trip. The best beds of the whole trip, and I wandered into their restaurant and had a culinary experience.
www.bonlaboureur.com
You are staying in Loches, but I can recommend a nice place for a superb $$$ dinner, Auberge du Bon Laboureur in Chenonceaux. I stayed there one night on my trip. The best beds of the whole trip, and I wandered into their restaurant and had a culinary experience.
www.bonlaboureur.com
Dec 20th, 2011, 09:01 AM
#26
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Valencay is one of our favorites. It was the home of Tallyrand and still includes most of the original furnishings. The audio guide is included with the admission charge; even though we have been there ten times or more, I still listen to every word on the audio guide and select the additional information options.
The gardens are gorgeous. Peacocks are everywhere. You can explore the grounds and gardens by walking or taking a golf cart tour; the grounds are huge and full of history.
On weekends they have skits or presentations (in French) of Tallyrand's activities at the chateau. They also offer free wine tastings in the kitchens.
There is a lovely picnic area on the grounds. A supermarket is just a few blocks away in town. The parking is free.
The town of Valencay is quite charming with lots of shops, boulangeries, and ATMs. You can visit the church where Tallyrand is buried.
The gardens are gorgeous. Peacocks are everywhere. You can explore the grounds and gardens by walking or taking a golf cart tour; the grounds are huge and full of history.
On weekends they have skits or presentations (in French) of Tallyrand's activities at the chateau. They also offer free wine tastings in the kitchens.
There is a lovely picnic area on the grounds. A supermarket is just a few blocks away in town. The parking is free.
The town of Valencay is quite charming with lots of shops, boulangeries, and ATMs. You can visit the church where Tallyrand is buried.
Dec 20th, 2011, 09:34 AM
#27
I guess I'll add my opinions also.
Favorites:
Chennonceau
Chambord
Villandry--for the gardens
Frontevraud Abbey--surprisingly we stayed longer than anticipated
Least favorite:
Azay le Rideau---I don't know why, but this one just did nothing for us. Maybe we were underwhelmed because we has visited the above first.
We also liked:
The DaVinci House
Balzac's home in Sache
Good luck!
Favorites:
Chennonceau
Chambord
Villandry--for the gardens
Frontevraud Abbey--surprisingly we stayed longer than anticipated
Least favorite:
Azay le Rideau---I don't know why, but this one just did nothing for us. Maybe we were underwhelmed because we has visited the above first.
We also liked:
The DaVinci House
Balzac's home in Sache
Good luck!
Dec 20th, 2011, 10:41 AM
#29
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Thank you all for taking so much time to answer my question. I now need to sit down and think hard. Ideally I plan to do one château a day and spend the rest of the day doing something else.
Dec 20th, 2011, 12:35 PM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j166VdqWLYY
Cheverny is especially noted for its famous Soupe des Chiens - mass feeding of the hounds!
Cheverny is especially noted for its famous Soupe des Chiens - mass feeding of the hounds!
Dec 20th, 2011, 12:57 PM
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http://www.chateau-de-meung.com/-rubrique10-
If you want to see a lived in chateau and take a tour with the owner then check out Meung-s/Loire's stately, but kind of shabby, castle!
We were there for the Christmas decorations throughout and the lady owner showed us around - sold tickets and was even seen with her Wellingtons on cleaning up some gradeau!
You can see the attic where the roof leaks - hinting at how expensive maintaining such a castle can be.
Meung/s/Loire is a sleepy old village not far from Orleans and it also has a nice Loire front and old moulin factories along a small river, which makes a lovely walk.
So for some Loire experience nearly no other foreign tourist will have check out Meung-sur-Loire!
If you want to see a lived in chateau and take a tour with the owner then check out Meung-s/Loire's stately, but kind of shabby, castle!
We were there for the Christmas decorations throughout and the lady owner showed us around - sold tickets and was even seen with her Wellingtons on cleaning up some gradeau!
You can see the attic where the roof leaks - hinting at how expensive maintaining such a castle can be.
Meung/s/Loire is a sleepy old village not far from Orleans and it also has a nice Loire front and old moulin factories along a small river, which makes a lovely walk.
So for some Loire experience nearly no other foreign tourist will have check out Meung-sur-Loire!
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