Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Which Andalusian Towns?

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Which Andalusian Towns?

For those that know, which Andalusian towns would you rather spend the night in: Ubeda or Carmona? Arcos or Ronda? I'm having some trouble deciding myself.I'm doing the Granda-Cordoba-Sevilla circuit and have two, maybe three nights to spend in smaller places. Planning to splurge one or two nights at a paradore in one of the above mentioned towns- any recommendations? Thanks.

Hate to "top" but I could use some advice...

Arcos vs Ronda: Most people would disagree with me but although I loved both cities I preferred staying in Arcos. There didn't seem to be as many tourists and it was a beautiful city. We stayed at one of Rick Steve's recommended places, El Convento, which is just behind the parador and 1/2 the price. Our balcony with a panoramic view was larger than our room! We also ate at the restaurant of the same name and it was wonderful. Either place you stay I would say you need to visit both of them and other smaller "white village" cities.

gigi, While staying in Seville, you can easily make Carmona a morning or afternoon trip; no need for an overnight, although the Peter the Cruel Fortress Parador is quite impressive with great views (and pool), plus there's the British country house type, secluded Casa de Carmona. However, I'd vote for the Parador stay in Ubeda. It's been fairly recently redecorated, a former ducal palace. I really like this off the main tourist path Renaissance town for a night's stay-has an intl music festival early June. You can also visit nearby Jaen (hilltop Castle and Parador that make a fantastic Kodak stop-beautiful views of endless miles of olive groves) and sleepy little nextdoor Baeza, another town filled with Renaissance palaces. A part of Andalucia that many often overlook. No contest for me in the Arcos/Ronda question. Despite Rick Steve's enthusiasm for Arcos (Parador is relaxing with wonderful views-oldish but not historic), I'll take Ronda any day. For my money, it's friendlier, even prettier (but not your classic Moorish white town), livelier at night, far more prosperous, also easier to manage with a car. It has an equally awe-inspiring setting atop a 100 meter deep gorge- an aristocratic, charming, attractive place. I find the top of Arcos a pain to reach by car and even worse to find parking, plus I keep thinking about its reputation (maybe a false legend) for scorcery and incest, despite the amazing views. Ronda's dramatically perched modern, stylish Parador (with pool) is one of the best of the newer ones in the chain. But there are also a couple of other comfy, cozy, charming family-run inns as well, if the Parador is booked. With 3 extra nights, I'd do 2 in Ronda and 1 in Ubeda on the route Granada-Cordoba.

Andalucia fan...could you recommend a couple of those comfy, cozy, charming family run inns in Rhonda?? Thanks.

I recommend the family run San Gabriel in the old part - you can read our detailed review at www.i-escape.com/hotelsangabriel.php

San Gabriel (perfect, tremendous value!) www.hotelsgabriel.com Casona de la Ciudad (garden, pool) www.lacasonadelacuidad.com www.rusticae.es Alavera de los Banos (but way down by the Arab baths below the old quarter-pool and restaurant) www.andalucia.com/alavera www.innsofspain.com www.real-ronda.com

Andalucia fan, I'm intrigued... "I keep thinking about it's reputation (maybe a false legend) for scorcery and incest, despite the amazing views." Sorcery and incest? What legend? I'd love to hear... And a big thank you to you, CathyM, and nikkit. Does anyone else have any thoughts?

gigi, It seems that Arcos is a town steeped in legends, volumes full-got the "scorcery/incest" one from the Spain travel writer, Alastair Boyd, author of "The Road from Ronda; travels by horse through Southern Spain". There's also the exorcism one, propagated by Rick Steves: "in the pavement (in front of the Church of Santa Maria) notice the 15th c magic circle: 12 red and 12 white stones-the white ones with various constellations marked. When a child came to the church to be baptized, the parents used to stop here first for a good Christian exorcism. The exorcist would stand inside the protective circle and cleanse the baby of any evil spirits. This spot was even holy back in Muslim times. Sufis from a sect of Ilam still come here in pilgrimage." Then there's the legend of the Moorish King Abdun Ibn Jizrun, who before setting off for a journey from which he'd never return, had the woman he loved entombed alive within a wall of his castle. The woman's soul took the form of a vulture, and on nights when the moon was full, could be seen soaring in search of her lost love. This last one I've read in several books, including the excellent Knopf guide to Seville and Andalucia-highly recommend it for its wonderful historical detail. And finally, if you're in Arcos on Easter Sunday, they release two bulls, one in the morning and another in the afternoon, to run through the streets with the townspeople, creating havoc and merriment for all. Called the "toro de aleluya". Must witness this some day...

How interesting...I'll be on the lookout for the Boyd book. As for the exorcisms, that's not so usual, I think- from what I remember from my Renaissance history courses, babies born to medieval European Christians were always exorcised, as children were thought to be born full of demons. Then, once cleansed, they could be baptized. I love learning about this sort of stuff, thanks for sharing!

Re your Arcos/Ronda question: If you like a more quiet place after your Granada-Cordoba-Sevilla tour Arcos might be a good choice to spend the night. It will be quiter than Ronda and is more intimate, I think you will get the real Spanish feeling there after the daytrippers will be gone. The parador is very nicely located, at the highest point of the old city. We didn't stay there, just had an excellent lunch on their beautiful patio.

Just returned from Spain on Monday. We did a similar trip. We stayed in Cordoba, then at the parador in Ubeda, Granada, the parador in Ronda (2 nights) and ended in Seville. Both paradors are fantastic. Very different. In Ubeda the building is beautiful and old, while in Ronda it is new. I think that our room in Ubeda was the most stunning of the entire trip. Had a huge lunch there too - it was fantastic. The city is quaint altough not too much to do. We walked around the came upon 5 weddings scattered throughout the town - it was hysterical. In Ronda the setting is stunning! Be sure to hike down so that you get a view of the Nuevo Puerto from the valley side. We spent the most relaxing afternoon at the pool and had a great dinner at the parador. There is also a wonderful new restaurant in Ronda, about 2 doors down from the parador, I'll try to remember the name. We didn't make it to Arcos, but I hear it is nice. We drove to Grazalema and to Zahara de la Sierra on our way to Seville - they were both very picturesque. Enjoy your trip! (BTW - it was so hot in Seville we thought we'd die!)

Since we're planning to go at Xmas time, we'll probably be freezing our butts off, instead... I think we're going to try for a night in the paradore in Ubeda, a night in Acros (maybe El Convento), and a night at the paradore in Ronda, if we can get reservations (I'd better fire up the fax machine asap). I'm kind of glad there isn't too much to do in Ubeda, as I think it will be fun to loll around in a luxury hotel (the rest of our trip is lower budget). And I'm going to keep my eyes peeled for any strange goings on in Acros...;)