I have not been to as many French cities as some other contributors to this discussion but, of those I have visited, I think Lyon ticks the boxes best -- especially for the foodie part of you.

Bordeaux might beat it for shopping, but you eat every day and I hope your GF doesn't shop every day.

Hi R,

From my own experience of Bordeaux, I think that a month there is 27 days too long.

If you will have a car, Sarlat would be nice for July, although tourists do flock to the Dordogne that time of year.

How about Strasbourg? Good rail and bus connections to the towns of Alsace, Nancy, Germany and Switzerland.

It will be relatively cool.

((I))

While I'm very fond of Bordeaux, I don't think I'd want a month there. There really isn't a cool old quarter of town - the pedestrian area surrounding the rue Ste-Cathérine is OK, but far less appealing than the old quarter in many other French cities. The Place du Parliament area is overrun with tourists, and the spoke streets are just dreary. The nearby beaches are just so-so. Arcachon and the Dune de Pyla are worth a daytrip, but the scenery on the way to the beach and back is really horrid. Sure, there are good museums and parks, and great food and some stunning architecture, but plenty of French cities have those.

We're attracted to Strasbourg but I want something perhaps a bit more quintessentially French, for my first visit.

Any thoughts on Dijon re: our interests?

RAR
Check the site for Coco's apartment. Her site has a whole bunch of information about Dijon.

www.myhomeindijon.com

Check the videos about Dijon.

Blackduff

Hi RAR,

what a great idea. I may just copy it when i retire - why can't us oldies have gap years/months?

I've only even been round Lyons, but it ticks all the boxes for me too, especially on location - there are loads of places you can get really easily. also it's big enough that you are bound to find a part that you feel at home in and fairly cheap accommodation.

dijon strikes me as perhaps being too small, given your ages - it'd probably suit someone like me [old enough to be your mum] more.

good luckwith whatever you do - and pleeease give us a trip report.

regards, ann

Size isn't that important to me - I live in a small town, and places like Bologna are really just big towns if you stick to the center. Small geographic areas can feel cosmopolitan and happening.

Ann: it's a double-edged sword, as a grad student I have plenty of time to travel, but little money for it! Thus comes the idea of picking two bases (Bologna is one, somewhere in France for the other) since it's economical and gets us away.

How about using a Spanish base. Barcelona is lovely. You can spend a little or a bomb. Certainly is a great city for young people.

Then, you can jump onto the train and head direct to France. The coastal part of France is lovely. Collioure is a nice place but it's more like a day or two visit. But the area does have lots of places to check.

http://www.pyreneesmediterraneanliving.com/

This site is a group of photos about the area across the border from Spain. This is the French Catalonia region. From here you could spend some time and then head towards Montpelier. Certainly Narbonne is on the way~Bezier is along the way too.

This visiting could all be done by train.

The Mediterranean coast is lovely.

Blackduff

I still think Montpellier is right up your alley. The historic center is large enough to keep you busy but small enough for you to become familiar with its twisty streets over a month's time. Lots of great restaurants and cafes in every price range, fabulous people-watching and espresso-sipping opportunities in Place de la Comedie and the many smaller squares, and lots of parks and places to stroll. I was there from September to December so I can't speak to the hot weather or the academic calendar. Good that you don't mind heat, but you'd certainly be close enough to get to the ocean to cool off.

Comparing Montpellier and Aix, let me tell you one impression that sticks with me, some 12 years later. I had a good friend studying in Aix at the same time I was in Montpellier. I found Aix to be far more touristy while Montpellier was more relaxed. Even though my friend and I were both studying French, everyone spoke English to us when we were out and about in Aix, whereas in Montpellier my French got a serious workout. Don't get me wrong, I love both cities, but for me Aix is more of a tourist destination while Montpellier is a place to experience day-to-day French life.

Strasbourg is a great city, but much more international with strong German influences. Not what I would call the quintessential French city.

I personally did not fall in love with Marseilles, but it is certainly worth a visit.

Lyon. Would go back there in a flash! Avignon is also fabulous.

Lyon - small city, great food, lots of atmosphere -Archaeological Park of Fourvière (theatre and Gallo-Roman ampitheatre (Roman Ruins,) The traboules of Croix-Rousse -19th century buildings which housed the silk looms,great city murals. Free Bikes are available throughout the city center. If you like walking you can cover Lyon on foot - lots of steep hills and steeper hillside staircases. It is close to Provence, the Beaujolais wineries to the north, lots of hiking trails nearby, and cycling in the countryside, not far from Grenoble. but a ways to the seaside.

Another opinion: Given your age and interests I'd go for Lyon or Montpellier. I spent one week in Aix and to paraprhase Ira, it was three days too long. It is a pretty city but touristy and other than Cezanne's studio, not particularly interesting, but I liked the vibe in Marseille very much but wouldn't want to spend a month there.

The proximity to other places of interest from Mont. or Lyon would appeal to me.

Let us know what you decide.

Lyon. Happy Travels!

Food for thought:

Population of Lyon: 1.8 million, 2nd largest metropolitan area in France

Population of Montpellier: about 250,000

That's a big difference, so it really depends on whether you prefer a small- or big-city feel.

If the heat wouldn't bother you, I really would pick Montpellier, probably. It is a very pleasant city and does have a great location for other trips along the coast or to Nimes, Arles, Avignon, etc.

I liked Aix more than some people, but would prefer Montpellier myself, I think. There are definitely more tourists in Aix, as it's part of the Provence tourist circuit and people hear about it a lot. Of course Montpellier has tourists, but not as many and they may be different nationalities than in Aix.

I enjoyed Strasbourg for a couple days, but would never want to stay there a month -- ugh. Also, it's the city where the Eur Commission meets, so some hotels are more expensive than you'd think, as well as apts I suppose. But the reason is I just don't like the whole Alsace thing that much and really don't like the cuisine.

(It is spelled Montpellier, BTW, Montpelier is the city in Vermont).

I am amazed that so many of the Fodorites are still with you on this month stay with all the requirements you have--and you have never been to France at all? I am happy tha the Gf speaks French, but my impression of this trip is that you and GF have not done much research for your own trip. France has everything you need for a week, month or a lifetime, but you
need to look for those charming places in France that you would enjoy.

Go for Lyon! I live here and love it! All the comforts of a big city but yet small enough to get to know well! And also... a lot less expensive than Paris!
Plus, you have some great tourist regions very closeby like Drome, Ardeche, Vercors and the Alps. You'll be as close to the South as to the North (almost) and 2hrs away from Geneva or Annecy, just beautiful places to visit! I really recommend it! It's just great!

Gonna leave a site recommendation in case you wanna visit the region, hope it'll be helpful if you decide to travel a bit during your stay.
http://www.mobi-tourism.com/en/index.html