Where to find charm in the Oltrarno
 

We are going to stay almost a week in the Oltrarno area this June. I would like to collect in one thread the best restaurants, artisan shops, delis, and people-watching sites.

Please add ANYTHING you have enjoyed (or warnings about yucky things) in the Oltrarno area.

Hi,
I stayed at the Residenzia del carmine last year for a week-is that where you will be?
I loved a little trattoria at the far narrow end of Piazza del carmine-I think the trattoria was called Carmine also- we were there an entire evening, and it was all locals, pleasant, homey. We actually got the name out of a guidebook, so were astonished at how unspoiled it was. I also enjoyed the market in front of the Santo Spirito church. The vendors were so funny- we had several interesting conversations there in a smattering of languages.
All the delis and bakery shops were good, although the folks in the larger grocery were very upset with my lack of bags and small change. Oh well.
I will have to look it up (not home now)- hope I remember- there is a print shop buried way back in one of those narrow streets with excellent etchings-not too expensive-just exquisite. I bought a whole lot of their postcards and bookmarks as gifts.
A hot afternoon in the Boboli gardens was nice-there is an area where they had seats by the little fishponds.
Yucky? As with the rest of Florence-watch out for the vespas. Even worse on those really narrow streets with hardly any sidewalks to speak of. Have fun.

This thread that I posted in January has info on two restaurants I liked in the Oltrarno. Others to try there might include:
Diladdarno; Alla Vecchia Bettola; Tranvai.http://www.fodors.com/forums/pgMessa...ame=ekscrunchy

Thank you! You probably saw that I went there and topped so I can find under my user name. We are also planning on going to Bologna for the day, so the information you provided in that thread is terrific!

The etching studion is called L'Ippogriffo and its on Via S. Spirito 5r. Its so worth the walk.
Also look for a free Italian paper called the Florentine. They are in front of places around the oltrano in racks. Good for events.

We also took a "Walking tour of Florence" which began on the other side of the river but actually covered the Oltrarno. It was not expensive, lasted about 2 hours and our guide was lots of fun and told some great stories about Renaissance Florence and the artisans in the Oltrarno district. It ended at a little cafe/wine bar for a free glass of wine, to which we added a cheese plate. Yum! Most hotels have their brochures - that is how we found out about them.

hey eskscrunchy,

can you tell me anything abaout the restaraunt diladdarno in florence

I wanted to eat at Diladdarno but it was closed the week that we were last in the city. From what I read, it is a good, solid place.

Here is a website with some other good places mapped:


http://www.diladdarno.it/mappa-sezio...p;p=ristoranti

Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco !

hey bobthenavigator,

I've read mixed reviews on Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco ..but you seem to praise it

It is decent, but filled with tourists...there are better places, in my opinion, in the Oltrarno (south side of the Arno River).

The Brancacci Chapel with its Masaccio frescoes. It is in the Church of Santa Maria del Carmine.

Have fun!

Sorry, the above is not really a restaurant or shop, but a worthwhile site to visit. Hope that still helps! :-)

Ha Ha..not a restaurant or a shop, but certainly a "do not miss!!" One of the essential sights in the city!!

Escrunchy - there's a very fine restaurant, aptly named, in Oltrarno also: Beccofino. It's half a block from the Ponte alla Carraia, in the direction of the Ponte Vecchio, right on the river, but set back with a courtyard in front. It's very modern but the food is exquisite.

From my March 2007 trip report:

Florence apartment: we rented through Residenza il Carmine, via Ardiglione on the Oltrarno very near the Carmine church.

About 5 doors from where I had lived for a few months in the early 70s(!) -- under conditions far less opulent than what awaited us at the Carmine.

Huge, bright, spotless, well furnished apartment ("Domus", their largest) on a quiet garden courtyard. Beyond the French doors, a magnolia was in full blossom. Beamed ceilings, "cotto" floors. Many antiques -- but fully modern bath(s) and kitchen.

Charming owner -- though we did not see much of anyone or anything, as the place seemed not very full. Suited our penchant for privacy -- though others might want more personal attention.

We got this jewel for a heavily discounted rate: an incredible 79 Euros a night.

Best dinner: Ristoro di Cambi, just west of there in the via San Onofrio (just off Borgo San Frediano).

Indebted to a Fodors poster for this brilliant suggestion. These handsome rooms are always packed, often with boisterous parties of Florentines. Very simple, direct trattoria cooking with fine, fresh ingredients. Favourite dish: the Antipasto misto del banco -- prosciutto, salami, mortadella, carciofi, porcini and sun-dried tomatoes. With contorni and a litre of house wine but no dessert, about 50 E for 2.

Simpler and less polished but still adequate for a good, plain meal: the nearby Trattoria del Carmine.

Tegdale: Glad you enjoyed Cambi!!

Sandra thank for the info. I've never eaten there because it looks a bit on the "trendy" side. But will keep it in mind for next time. Am I remembering correctly in thinking that the owner is from Scotland?

Beccofino is owned by the same people as Baldovino in Santa Croce. It's more upscale and yes, trendy. But the food is wonderful. Traditional dishes with some modern touches.

bookmarking

excellent suggestions, grazie!

This is an old thread, but any fresh ideas?