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What do you think of Pamplona in late May?

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What do you think of Pamplona in late May?

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Old Feb 17th, 2006, 07:02 PM
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What do you think of Pamplona in late May?

I'll be in Pamplona at end of May for a conference for a few days. I've heard from some people that Pamplona is not much to visit outside of July's festivals -- is this true? If I have a full week, do you suggest I visit some Northern beach towns?
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Old Feb 17th, 2006, 07:37 PM
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Only someone who doesn’t know the area very well would say something like that. Granted, Pamplona is not a resort city, but an upper middle class working city that enjoys one of the best economies in Spain. It has a major university and medical school. Navarra’s bodegas (wineries), several within 20-minutes of the city, are growing in prominence. It also has some great restaurants and pintxos bars, including the bar Gaucho in the Plaza del Castillo, and El Embrujo on C/Padre Calatayud. The city is the crossroads for the Pilgrims route of Saint James. It's history dates back thousands of years and Navarra is the first kingdom of Spain. If you were to read Mark Kurlansky’s “The Basque History of the World”, you’d find that Pamplona has a rich history and is very important to the Basque people.

The nightlife is only marginal most of the year, but San Sebastian-Donostia is only an hour away by car or bus, while La Rioja is 90-minutes to the southwest.
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Old Feb 17th, 2006, 08:43 PM
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Sure it's a nice town located in a nice area, but with these other attractions so close, I'd split my time and spend time looking at (and/or staying in) Bilbao (google it for the Guggenheim), San Sebastian, even Biarritz up the coast a bit - and, yes, you may have beach weather although that's not guaranteed.

Trains to Bilbao take about 4 hours or more, to San Sebastian about two hours, from S.S. to Biarritz it's about 1 1/2 hours.

You say nothing about your tastes, so Google these and see if there's something you like about them, and the coastline in between.

WK
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Old Feb 18th, 2006, 12:30 AM
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Pamplona is a great city, but if you have a few days there already for the conference, then venture around afterwards. The Northern Coast of the Basque Country has so much to see, do and eat. It depends what your interests are, but you'll be able to find something that suits your needs.

I do suggest a car (or even bus) for transportation - the train is much slower. For example, you can go from Pamplona to Bilbao in under 2 hours in a car.

Buen viaje!
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Old Feb 18th, 2006, 09:45 AM
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This sounds very promising, thanks. I'm less into nightlife and more into good food (both dives and Michelin recs) and mellow places to hang out in the evenings. For day, museums or historically focused walking tours would be great, could mix it up with some beach sunning if possible.

Should I rule out renting a car for the road trip North?
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Old Feb 18th, 2006, 10:54 AM
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Navarra is a fantastic region with lots of natural beauty (there are som really beautiful rivers in the area that I hiked when I was in high school and did not have the presence of mind to write down) and great food. Trucha navarreña (trout with bacon and cream) is a favorite of mine, and the fish is incredibly fresh. Their pork products are also very very good and if you do patatas con chorizo (a stew), getting a slightly spicy red Rioja hits the spot. Pamplona has a lot of nice places to eat and it is a tranquil place to visit.

When I went we had a car and did: Zaragoza to Zarauz visiting San Sebastian and Bilbao, headed down through Pamplona, then to la Rioja, then all the way back home to Alicante. The car was key because in the País Vasco we drove around to different Sidrerías (cider houses) that serve amazing menus for pretty cheap (though I went when the peseta was the currency). You do have to drive around and find them. We literally just took back roads until we found something, but you can look many up, or ask around.

Bilbao has the Guggenheim, and the exhibitions there are generally not so great (in my experience), but the space is worth seeing, especially if you are into museology and exhibition design. Bilbao itself is not so interesting, so I would simply drive through and move on. San Sebastian is gorgeous and has nice beaches, though it might be cold when you are there. Don't miss the Peine del Viento sculpture (follow the beach with the water on your right until you hit the very end and it is right there. . . it is interactive. . . you will see what I mean) and eat tapas at El Gorriti in the casco viejo.

Whoever said that about Pamplona is nuts. July is the bad time to be there anyways. I mean, baccanals are fun, but that one goes over the top.

Claire
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Old Feb 18th, 2006, 01:07 PM
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Claire,
I don't know how long it has been since you've been to Bilbao, but things have changed dramatically over the last five years as the city has developed into a very dynamic business city and cultural center. It has one of the best public transportation systems in Spain and the old city is outstanding. It's cuisine is quickly becoming a match to the best San Sebastian-Donostia has to offer.

Pamplona is a great place to be during the fiesta; you just have to know your way around, as you would in any city that attracts ten of thousands of people from throughout Spain and from around the world.
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Old Feb 19th, 2006, 09:23 AM
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I should have prefaced my Bilbao comment with the fact that my travel there was done in pesetas, so it was a while ago. I guess I need to go back. Sorry. I guess I am sort of like reading an out-of-date travel guide. Updated version TBA.

Claire
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Old Feb 20th, 2006, 03:09 AM
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Continuing with the Bilbao theme: last time I was there I took my wife to el Mercado, a 3-story building on the (Nervion) riverfront just at the border of the Casco Viejo. I wanted to get her opinion because the time I was in Bilbao before, I was traveling solo. She agreed that it was the best market she had ever visited.

It's still pretty cool on the north coast in late May: I love Santander (esp. Playa Sardinero): It's a fishing center, a city with beautiful beaches and an important seaport. There's also a Ferry to/from Plymouth (UK) about 4-times weekly. Daytrips from Santander include Santillana del mar, and Liebana and the Picos de Europa.
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Old Feb 20th, 2006, 08:03 AM
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I absolutely love shore fishing and charter fishing -- are these things a possibility in Playa Sardeniro? I never even considered fishing in Spain -- I don't need to go after huge game fish but I love catching a few good sized eating fish to gril and/or share. I'm also interested in the fishing industry so even if I can't fish myself I like to see the small boats come in with their nets, watch people clean their catch, etc. Any info on fishing in Spain would be greatly appreciated!

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