What wineries to visit in Chianti?
Oct 11th, 2006, 12:20 PM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What wineries to visit in Chianti?
Greetings Fodorite Italophiles:
I'm the editor of the Fodor's guide to Tuscany, and for the new edition I'm putting together a winery-visiting itinerary for the Chianti Classico district. I've been working on it with a Tuscany-based writer, but I know that even a local may not have the breadth of experience that all of you do collectively. So, do you have any places you'd strongly recommend -- or any you'd recommend avoiding?
This is the preliminary list the writer and I have come up with:
Castello di Volpaia
Badia a Coltibuono
Castello di Verrazzano
Castello di Fonterutoli
Villa Vignamaggio
Many thanks for your help!
-- Matthew Lombardi
I'm the editor of the Fodor's guide to Tuscany, and for the new edition I'm putting together a winery-visiting itinerary for the Chianti Classico district. I've been working on it with a Tuscany-based writer, but I know that even a local may not have the breadth of experience that all of you do collectively. So, do you have any places you'd strongly recommend -- or any you'd recommend avoiding?
This is the preliminary list the writer and I have come up with:
Castello di Volpaia
Badia a Coltibuono
Castello di Verrazzano
Castello di Fonterutoli
Villa Vignamaggio
Many thanks for your help!
-- Matthew Lombardi
Oct 11th, 2006, 03:16 PM
#2
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,525
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hello Matthew, What you have here is the "A" list for every tour bus and first time visitors to Tuscany. Precisely the reason I would avoid them. I am sorry, but Chianti has just gotten too commercial. Send your readers further south for the best of Tuscany and try to get some input from Reid Bramblett.
Oct 11th, 2006, 04:34 PM
#3
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Bob --
Thanks for the reply. Seems like the crux of the issue is how much you want to avoid other tourists vs. what you're willing to miss in order to avoid them. I've had good-to-glorious experiences at these places, and traveling in May, I don't remember encountering any tour buses (though there were certainly were other tourists).
Have you really had bad experiences in Chianti? It's a obviously a popular destination, but I've always been pleasantly surprised by how little tourist congestion I've encountered -- never anything on a par with Siena or San Gimignano.
Thanks for the reply. Seems like the crux of the issue is how much you want to avoid other tourists vs. what you're willing to miss in order to avoid them. I've had good-to-glorious experiences at these places, and traveling in May, I don't remember encountering any tour buses (though there were certainly were other tourists).
Have you really had bad experiences in Chianti? It's a obviously a popular destination, but I've always been pleasantly surprised by how little tourist congestion I've encountered -- never anything on a par with Siena or San Gimignano.
Oct 11th, 2006, 05:51 PM
#4
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,525
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Certainly May is the best time to travel in Italy, but they still call it " Chiantishire" for a reason. I guess I am spoiled by the Val d' Orcia area an hour south of Chianti. Have you spent time there?
Oct 12th, 2006, 10:57 AM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks, Lisa. Did you do a full tour there? If so, was there something that set it apart (other than good wine and a beautiful location)?
Bob -- I've skirted Val d'Orca -- stayed a couple of times at a wonderful place called Frateria di Padre Eligio, near Chiusi, spent an afternoon in Montepulciano, had lunch and a stroll through Pienza. But I've never made any winery visits in the area. Are there any particular ones you recommend? What I've read about Banfi leaves me wondering whether it's a good stop. Sounds visitor-friendly, but maybe too polished and corporate.
Bob -- I've skirted Val d'Orca -- stayed a couple of times at a wonderful place called Frateria di Padre Eligio, near Chiusi, spent an afternoon in Montepulciano, had lunch and a stroll through Pienza. But I've never made any winery visits in the area. Are there any particular ones you recommend? What I've read about Banfi leaves me wondering whether it's a good stop. Sounds visitor-friendly, but maybe too polished and corporate.
Oct 12th, 2006, 01:23 PM
#8
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My husband and I visited Villa Vignamaggio on our honeymoon this past June. We had a tour and tasting with another couple (who we didn't know). It was very personal, the spread of food (breads, oils, cheeses, salamis, etc)was phenomenal, and the wine tastings of course were great, we tasted about 7 different kinds including dessert wine and grappa. Our guide was very knowledgeable. The place was of course beautiful and breathtaking. We learned a lot about wine making. I don't recall what we paid but it was reasonable and we made the reservation a few days in advance. I highly recommend it! We also stopped by Volpaia, they hadn't responded to my email asking for a tour, so when we got there of course we didn't get one. We had a really reasonable tasting though and bought a bottle. Would love to go back!!! hope this helps with your reviews
Oct 12th, 2006, 01:25 PM
#9
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 259
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
oh and about Banfi, we walked in to the "showroom" and immediately felt uncomfortable. It just seemed like a store - we walked out. Visited a beautiful newer vineyard/winery in Montalcino named Poggio Antico. Also a fantastic tour with a great guide and a nice tasting.
Oct 12th, 2006, 03:23 PM
#10
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We had a tour of the winery in Volpaia a few weeks ago. It's a lovely little town that doesn't seem to be overrun by tourists.
The winery has been built into the buildings of the town and it was very interesting to hear how they took the roof off of one building to get the giant vats inside, and how they ran pipes under the town to link the various processes.
We really enjoyed it.
www.volpaia.it
The winery has been built into the buildings of the town and it was very interesting to hear how they took the roof off of one building to get the giant vats inside, and how they ran pipes under the town to link the various processes.
We really enjoyed it.
www.volpaia.it
Oct 12th, 2006, 03:41 PM
#11
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,525
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes Matthew,
I prefer the Fattoria Barbi on the road between Montalcino and the Abbey at San Antimo. I also like Poggio Antico which is on the other road south from Montalcino--the same road the goes to Castello Banfi. I agree that the Banfi tour is a bit commmercial. The Ristorante at Poggio Antico is very good--gourmet. But, winery tours aside since this is not Napa, the overall ambiance and natural beauty in the Val d' Orcia is far superior to Chianti IMHO. Chianti merely has had the advantage of proximity to Florence. I will post my Tuscany photo gallery for you--most are taken in the Val d' Orcia.
I prefer the Fattoria Barbi on the road between Montalcino and the Abbey at San Antimo. I also like Poggio Antico which is on the other road south from Montalcino--the same road the goes to Castello Banfi. I agree that the Banfi tour is a bit commmercial. The Ristorante at Poggio Antico is very good--gourmet. But, winery tours aside since this is not Napa, the overall ambiance and natural beauty in the Val d' Orcia is far superior to Chianti IMHO. Chianti merely has had the advantage of proximity to Florence. I will post my Tuscany photo gallery for you--most are taken in the Val d' Orcia.
Oct 12th, 2006, 03:44 PM
#12
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,525
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here we are Matthew. Some you may recognize:
http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/show...y.php?cat=3827
http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/show...y.php?cat=3827
Oct 12th, 2006, 04:35 PM
#13
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks, LizaMarie. that's just what I'm interested in hearing -- both the good (Vignamaggio) and the not so good (Banfi).
Gorgeous photos, Bob. Naturally, the one that shows the most skin has gotten the most views....
Gorgeous photos, Bob. Naturally, the one that shows the most skin has gotten the most views....
Oct 12th, 2006, 05:08 PM
#14
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Matthew,
My husband and I did a winery tour and tasting at Castello di Verrazzano in May 2004 on our first trip to Europe. We made advance reservarions. Below are my comments on it from my trip report.
This was one of our greatest highlights of our trips. Gino, the host of our tour, was so entertaining. We toured the cellars and learned how the wine was made. We decided to stay for the lunch and wine tasting (34 Euro per person). Our original plan was to stay for the tour and tasting at 17 Euro per person. But, we felt we should stay based on Gino's advice. And, we are so very glad we did. It ended up being a 5 hour experience. And let's talk "tasting!" This is no tasting; this is pure enjoyment of wine and food. We had a glass of 5 different wines and they left the bottles on the table of each wine so you could enjoy the rest. The food kept coming too! Definitely worth the money and so relaxing and fun! I think we had 20 people in the tour and tasting from all parts of the world. The winery is beautiful and the views were spectacular!
On a side note, I would love to see winery information included in travel books (specifically if they have tours and contact information).
Tweeter
My husband and I did a winery tour and tasting at Castello di Verrazzano in May 2004 on our first trip to Europe. We made advance reservarions. Below are my comments on it from my trip report.
This was one of our greatest highlights of our trips. Gino, the host of our tour, was so entertaining. We toured the cellars and learned how the wine was made. We decided to stay for the lunch and wine tasting (34 Euro per person). Our original plan was to stay for the tour and tasting at 17 Euro per person. But, we felt we should stay based on Gino's advice. And, we are so very glad we did. It ended up being a 5 hour experience. And let's talk "tasting!" This is no tasting; this is pure enjoyment of wine and food. We had a glass of 5 different wines and they left the bottles on the table of each wine so you could enjoy the rest. The food kept coming too! Definitely worth the money and so relaxing and fun! I think we had 20 people in the tour and tasting from all parts of the world. The winery is beautiful and the views were spectacular!
On a side note, I would love to see winery information included in travel books (specifically if they have tours and contact information).
Tweeter
Oct 13th, 2006, 10:24 AM
#15
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 526
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I agree with tweeter...Castello di Verrazzano for sure! We also had Gino and we are from California, are wine knowledgeable but felt we expanded our knowledge, had a beautiful atmosphere, made new friends & had wonderful food.
Oct 13th, 2006, 10:07 PM
#16
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 151
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've just returned from a week with Tuscany and agree with two broad points bob made.
The Val d'Orca is more beautiful but less touristed and was a far better experience for me than Chianti.
I drove along the Chiantigiana the day after visiting Pienza and Montalcino and it left me underwhelmed.
The Val d'Orca is more beautiful but less touristed and was a far better experience for me than Chianti.
I drove along the Chiantigiana the day after visiting Pienza and Montalcino and it left me underwhelmed.
Oct 14th, 2006, 12:23 PM
#17
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 281
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It is always scary to see wonderful small beautiful places become too well known, which happens when Fodor's or Frommer's, etc., etc., publishes them in their travel guides. Or beautiful small villages (like Cortona) become too popular because of books like "Under the Tuscan Sun".
My husband and I have enjoyed our times at Banfi and Verrazzano (especially since we had their food/wine tasting session).
I will "reveal", however, that we enjoyed our winetasting at Uccelliera very much this summer. We also had a delicious lunch with our wine tasting at Le Presi. Both of these are Montalcino area wineries, which make Brunello.
My husband and I have enjoyed our times at Banfi and Verrazzano (especially since we had their food/wine tasting session).
I will "reveal", however, that we enjoyed our winetasting at Uccelliera very much this summer. We also had a delicious lunch with our wine tasting at Le Presi. Both of these are Montalcino area wineries, which make Brunello.
Oct 15th, 2006, 07:14 AM
#19
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dear Editor mlongbard,
I cannot say enough about Villa Vignamaggio! My husband and I just returned from Italy this past week and our favorite part of the trip was at the Villa Vignamaggio - hands down! (Sidenote: we were there during the harvest - how perfect is that?!)
We had not even planned on taking a wine tour; however, because we were staying there, it was offered at no extra charge. We learned a lot about the wine and the property and were entertained by a delightful guide. The wine tasting and food at the end of the tour were great...as already mentioned. They do sell their wines at the property, but the "store" was not part of the tour and we didn't feel like there was ANY "push" to buy anything.
During our stay, we did see a few tour buses, but NEVER seemed to encounter ANY type of crowds. I have to commend Vignamaggio for making our stay feel very relaxed and quiet, despite this. We wandered the grounds extensively and seldom ran in to many people at all. There are signs on the property that say "Privato," and only the guests are allowed to wander in these areas.
I DO hate to see it become a San Gimignano, but I also have to thank a Fodorite for suggesting it! For those interested in good wine, I think they would rather tour a winery that is recognized for their wine and save the less known places for other touring, etc. But, as you can see here, there are many opinions on this subject!
I cannot say enough about Villa Vignamaggio! My husband and I just returned from Italy this past week and our favorite part of the trip was at the Villa Vignamaggio - hands down! (Sidenote: we were there during the harvest - how perfect is that?!)
We had not even planned on taking a wine tour; however, because we were staying there, it was offered at no extra charge. We learned a lot about the wine and the property and were entertained by a delightful guide. The wine tasting and food at the end of the tour were great...as already mentioned. They do sell their wines at the property, but the "store" was not part of the tour and we didn't feel like there was ANY "push" to buy anything.
During our stay, we did see a few tour buses, but NEVER seemed to encounter ANY type of crowds. I have to commend Vignamaggio for making our stay feel very relaxed and quiet, despite this. We wandered the grounds extensively and seldom ran in to many people at all. There are signs on the property that say "Privato," and only the guests are allowed to wander in these areas.
I DO hate to see it become a San Gimignano, but I also have to thank a Fodorite for suggesting it! For those interested in good wine, I think they would rather tour a winery that is recognized for their wine and save the less known places for other touring, etc. But, as you can see here, there are many opinions on this subject!
