Christine

A few weeks ago over the long holiday (Ascension Day) weekend here in Switzerland we decided to jump the border for Italy. Our drive went smoothly except for a 1.5-hour delay in Milan (we mistakenly assumed Italy would be having a holiday as well but it was evident that many people were on their way to work and hit rush hour) and another delay as we left the tollbooth on the Autostrada near Venice, what a nightmare traffic situation there! <BR> <BR>In Venice, this time we stayed at the Hotel Florida, a 2-star near the train station. Relatively cheap, somewhat worn and shabby, but clean enough (not "spotless" though) place, friendly staff. Since we were only staying one-night in Venice we found the location to be excellent (didn't have to port our luggage too far from the Piazzale Roma, near the Bridge Degli-Scalzi, convenient for the water-taxis, EASY TO FIND AT THE END OF THE DAY, though the windows did not have double glazing and the sounds of people talking from the Calle did seep through, it was pretty quiet after 1am until the bells of the neighboring church woke us the next morning) Overall we would stay at the Hotel Florida again, we're not that fussy. We've also found it's nice to be "forced" to make your way across Venice to the Main Areas rather then staying right near San Marco or Rialto. This way we see and explore much more then we would otherwise by taking a different route each time, we're constantly delighted by our new discoveries. And of course a trip on the Tronchetto is always a wonderful experience. <BR> <BR> We were able to leave our luggage at the hotel when we arrived around Noon and spent the rest of the day wandering around the Canals with no particular aim in mind-my favorite thing to do. Only 1 place we dined at is really worth noting (the others only being tasty, but nothing special). And you will need to forgive me, as typically I neglected to write down the exact location and name. This Tavernetta was near the Chiesa di Santa Maria del Giglio before the bridge leading to Calle Larga XXII. Really nice rustic atmosphere, the food was good value-again I stress not mind-blowingly good, but good nonetheless. We also found that the gelato at Gelato Nico is a thing of the past and the place to go now is a short distance around the corner from Nico on the side canal near Fond Priuli and a church across the canal. We spent the evening listening to the music in the cafes of St. Marks Square. The next day we visited the Doge's Palace and again happily spent the rest of our time wandering. We left Venice at 4pm and drove directly to Verona with no major traffic snarls. <BR> <BR>In Verona we stayed at the Hotel Giuelletta e Romeo, a 3-star very near the Arena-2 minute walk. Although the location was excellent and the street was very quiet and very near the main shopping street. I was a bit disappointed with the hotel (I actually preferred the shabby 2-star in Venice). Nothing wrong in particular except it lacked character in a chain hotel sort of way, oh and the ants crawling around our room, but thank goodness for the air-conditioning because it was hot! We also had a disagreement with the hotel over charging us for breakfast because I had asked the receptionist specifically if breakfast was included in the room before we sat down the first morning and she said of course. Given the choice we would not stay at this hotel again. <BR> <BR>This was our first visit to Verona and what a wonderful place. We spent our time visiting Juliet's Balcony and Tomb (cheesy, but nice cheesy, with some nice art work in the Tomb Museum), a visit inside the Arena-which I really didn't think was worth it considering all the preparation underway for the Opera season. We also went up the Torre dei Lamberti and found it to be well worth the effort and expense for the fantastic views. The rest of our time was spent gazing at all the beautiful Casa and frescos, admiring the Piazzas, the tombs of the della Scala family-etc. A restaurant we really enjoyed was Bottega Del Vino (Via Scudo di Francia 3) unbelievable selection of wine and stunning frescos on the walls, charming place, good food. We will be returning to Verona in August for a performance of Aida-can't wait. <BR> <BR>On our drive back we battled traffic to Varenna (with a 3-hour over mountain pass detour of my husband's devising after he saw the traffic back up towards Lecco), where we left our car and took the passenger ferry to Bellagio for a few hours and then back to Varenna to pick up our car to take over to Mennagio for the drive home. Where not surprisingly we found ourselves in a traffic back up again through the Gotthard Tunnel in Switzerland. <BR> <BR>Further notes-on our last trip to Venice we stayed at the Hotel ai due Fanali also somewhat near the Piazzale Roma , 3-star, lovely little place, liked the location, nice hand-painted headboards on the bed. <BR> <BR>Sorry a bit long winded, but happy to answer any questions. <BR>

MIKE

Good report Christina .I will be in Venice and Verona in late August.I will be staying in Pedemente outside Verona and driving there from Venice.Can you give any advice about the drive?It sounds as if the traffic was heavy and I want to avoid any congestion if at all possible!Is it a long drive into Switzerland from Val Gardeina?and is a day trip a realistic idea and if so where do you recommend?Mike

Christine

Hi Mike, <BR> <BR>The portion from Verona to Venice is straight forward, and shouldn't be much of a problem, just follow the signs to Venice. It is messy where the Autostrada ends at the Toll Booths. For some ungodly reason, they had about 20 toll lanes open, yet only a 4-lane highway, so you can imagine the mess after the tollbooths. No lanes to guide anyone just a total free for all. You'll just need some patience-yet again this could have been some freak occurrence. <BR> <BR>I went to Val Gardena last year; the Dolomites are stunning (hope you plan on doing some hiking). We were living in Holland at the time and drove through Austria; Innsbruck (less then 2 hours) is probably your best bet for a day trip from there. The Mountain Pass from Val Gardena to the Autostrada can be slow, so a day trip to Switzerland is probably a little too ambitious. But in good traffic it would be *possible* to go to a place like Chur (Arosa, Davos) in about 4 hours. You could also visit Liechtenstein. Good Luck <BR>

annette

Thanks, Christine, for your report, which I printed out. I'll be visiting Venice, Verona, Padua next summer for approx. five days with an extra two days for traveling through the Dolomites. At least that's the plan now. <BR> <BR>I was just looking at a guidebook and thinking about Guilette e Romeo for its location and the rather glowing report of the guidebook (Italy Guide: Be a Traveler not a Tourist - cute title). <BR> <BR>What will be your lodging choice next time? <BR> <BR>Another guidebook features a B$B, Torcolo. It has air-conditioning and an off street courtyard. Haven't heard of that, have you? It is featured in Great Places to Stay in Europe. It's so hard to tell from these guidebook. <BR> <BR>Did you wander in the Giusti Garden? I'm interested to see a formal Italian garden while I'm in the Veneto. <BR> <BR>How long did it take you to explore the Castelvecchio or are you saving it for the next trip? <BR> <BR>Be sure to post after your August visit! I'd really love to here about the Opera in the Arena and your other experiences. <BR> <BR>Bye, <BR>Annette <BR> <BR>

Jane

Christine, <BR>What a great weekend adventure - traffic and ants notwithstanding! Thanks for the report. <BR>Jane

Paulo

Though I'm not much into gardens and stuff, for the conoisseur the Giardino Giusti is one of the oldest and most famous in Italy. It's certainly the nicest there is in the whole Veneto. We didn't spend much time there (1/2 hour?) even though the entrance fee is more expensive than that for Castelvecchio! The garden is very well kept, beautifully lined with cipresses, flower displays, fountains, statues and a very interesting labirinth of myrtle hedges. In the premises there's a huge weird mask, the balcony above which gives a nice view of the city. We visited it in a 4-hour or so morning stroll that included the Scaligeri tombs, Santa Anastasia and the Duomo, across Ponte Pietra over the Adige and to the Roman Theatre ruins, Castel S. Pietro and museum, to Santa Maria in Organo and Giusti gardens, over Ponte Navi and ending at San Fermo Maggiore. <BR> <BR>IMO, the Castelvecchio is a must. As a bonus you may stroll over the Ponte Scaligero. It took us a little over 2 hours to visit the whole site including, of course, the sculpture gallery, jewels rooms and Paintings gallery (the Bellinis, Carpaccio, Mantegna, Veronese, Tintoretto, Giordano, both Tiepolos, Strozzi, Guardi and Longhi among others). <BR> <BR>Paulo <BR>