We have returned from Paris and Beaune, and we survived the extraordinary snow!!
Mar 10th, 2005, 06:26 AM
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We have returned from Paris and Beaune, and we survived the extraordinary snow!!
We left for Paris on March 2, we arrived on March 3rd to a winter wonderland. Lucky for us we could land because most of CDG was closed because of the snow!!
We took the rer because of the snow on the roads were awful, and there were alot of accidents. I liked the rer, fast and efficient.
We arrive at Hotel Du Danube and the snow was spectacular. We ate at a restaurant on rue jacob. The restaurant specializes in cous cous. We all got different dishes and shared. Of course the kirs started before the food!!
We then are off to the winterwonderland, we visited musee Delacroix, which I can imagine in the summer the courtyard is lovely, but alas, I have a different perspective because of the snow! We walked to Saint Chapelle, which I love! We perused the island {glad I had my shearling boots and coat}
We then went to conciergie [spelling?] Which gives you some perspective of the revolution.
Musee d'orsay was open late so we visited the old favorites before dinner.
We had reservations at Boissinier on rue seine for the evening. What a treat I had the sea bass. My friend had the pigeon, and everthing was very enjoyable. Dessert was over the top chocolate and creme brulee!
So as you can imagine we are very tired and head back to the hotel. Day 2 is coming!
We took the rer because of the snow on the roads were awful, and there were alot of accidents. I liked the rer, fast and efficient.
We arrive at Hotel Du Danube and the snow was spectacular. We ate at a restaurant on rue jacob. The restaurant specializes in cous cous. We all got different dishes and shared. Of course the kirs started before the food!!
We then are off to the winterwonderland, we visited musee Delacroix, which I can imagine in the summer the courtyard is lovely, but alas, I have a different perspective because of the snow! We walked to Saint Chapelle, which I love! We perused the island {glad I had my shearling boots and coat}
We then went to conciergie [spelling?] Which gives you some perspective of the revolution.
Musee d'orsay was open late so we visited the old favorites before dinner.
We had reservations at Boissinier on rue seine for the evening. What a treat I had the sea bass. My friend had the pigeon, and everthing was very enjoyable. Dessert was over the top chocolate and creme brulee!
So as you can imagine we are very tired and head back to the hotel. Day 2 is coming!
Mar 10th, 2005, 06:34 AM
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i'm so looking forward to the rest of your paris review...i'm going on my honeymoon in may (may 6-9 in paris, may 10-21 in italy)...it's my first time in paris & my husband's 2nd time (he's actually french & cuban).
i can't wait to hear more from you!!!!
-olga
i can't wait to hear more from you!!!!
-olga
Mar 10th, 2005, 02:05 PM
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We are off to Versailles today. I have been to versailles a few times now.So for something different I took the audio tour. Which was wonderful! I would recommeded it highly. The hall of mirrors are all covered up, they have one little section you can see. But since I have seen the hall of mirrors a few times it was not that big of a deal.
We spent a few hours at Versailles then had lunch at hotel sofitel in Versailles. It was lovely, we all had salad niocoise[spelling?]
We took the rer to Invalides and meandered around the 7th arrondisment. We went to Musee Rodin and Napoleans tomb. By the way it is always snowing too!!
I love churches so I always try to stop when I see an interesting church. We found one, the Basilique Sainte-Clotilde. I do not know the history but it was beautiful.
We ate at a bistro that was good but not worth repeating. We then found another church by St Germain blvd. It was St. Thomas of Aquinas. Another fantastic church. If anyone has information on the history of these two churches let me know!
We then had a crepe and called it a night.
We spent a few hours at Versailles then had lunch at hotel sofitel in Versailles. It was lovely, we all had salad niocoise[spelling?]
We took the rer to Invalides and meandered around the 7th arrondisment. We went to Musee Rodin and Napoleans tomb. By the way it is always snowing too!!
I love churches so I always try to stop when I see an interesting church. We found one, the Basilique Sainte-Clotilde. I do not know the history but it was beautiful.
We ate at a bistro that was good but not worth repeating. We then found another church by St Germain blvd. It was St. Thomas of Aquinas. Another fantastic church. If anyone has information on the history of these two churches let me know!
We then had a crepe and called it a night.
Mar 10th, 2005, 02:21 PM
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It will be hard to believe this, but on the second day we did manage to get to Louvre also! We arrived at 8:00 P.M>, because the louvre is open until 9:30 on Fridays! Whew, looking back at this trip we did alot of things! It really was alot of flow and planning things in the same neightborhood!
Mar 10th, 2005, 03:41 PM
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pjsparlor-
Did you get into Sainte-Chapelle on March 3rd? We were there on March 3 at 10am but the sign said it was closed (that was our second attmept to go within 4 days). I guess we were just unlucky!
Did you get into Sainte-Chapelle on March 3rd? We were there on March 3 at 10am but the sign said it was closed (that was our second attmept to go within 4 days). I guess we were just unlucky!
Mar 11th, 2005, 03:01 AM
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Hello YK, we did get in on March 3rd. We were one of the last groups, I THINK arrived around 4:00.
I thought it was interesting how the French were useing dustpans to clear the snow from their sidewalks.
When we were at Versailles and Musee Rodin, they had the gardens roped off because of the snow. So we could not get close to the thinker or walk at all in the gardens in Versailles.
I thought it was interesting how the French were useing dustpans to clear the snow from their sidewalks.
When we were at Versailles and Musee Rodin, they had the gardens roped off because of the snow. So we could not get close to the thinker or walk at all in the gardens in Versailles.
Mar 11th, 2005, 04:02 AM
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It is our third day in Paris, March 4 we wake up to sunshine!!
We walk to Louvre and have breakfast at Cafe Marley. Very good omelettes, I also had my first kir peche royal [yummy]
We then walk to Jardin Du Palais Royal. Our goal is to find some passages and keep walkin toward Opera Garnier.
WE find some of the passages, great window shopping but most of them were not open. I loved the whole area, my first time meandering through these streets.
We meander to Willys wine bar. Ilove this place. The atmosphere the WINE,it is great!
We are walking down rue des petits champs and we get to avenue de l'opera. What a magnificent sight when you make that turn and see the Opera Garnier in all her glory.
First time I have taken the time to see this, and it did not dissapoint!
We spent some here, did not take the tour though.
We then start to walk toward the Madeleinne church. Our goal now is to mustard tasting at Maille. We find the mustard stor, what a treat that was! We sampled a cassis mustard, tarragon mustard, caper mustard, chablis mustard, vin blanc mustard, and I am forgetting alot of them!! Very intersting, of course I came home with mustard!
We are now off to Musee Nissom De Camondo, right by Parc Monceau. Wow, this will be a musee I will be back to. It really is a timepiece. Too much to go into detail. The musee itself was a residence at one time of jewish banking family. They ended up perishing at Auschwitz. But the house is intact how they left it. It was built as a replica of Petite Trianon at Versailles.Beautiful artwork, furnishings, china, just a very stunning gem of a musee, and definitely haunting because of the story.
We then start walking back to Hotel Danube. We ate at Bistro overlooking Madeleinne church. yummy onion soup!
We did walk into the chuch and mass was going on. Another beautiful church.
We have reservations for dinner at 8:30, I will post the name of the restaurant at the end of the report. It was fantastic!! We always did the prix fixe meals, which really was a treat. To have all the freshest produce and dishes of day was heaven.
We walk to Louvre and have breakfast at Cafe Marley. Very good omelettes, I also had my first kir peche royal [yummy]
We then walk to Jardin Du Palais Royal. Our goal is to find some passages and keep walkin toward Opera Garnier.
WE find some of the passages, great window shopping but most of them were not open. I loved the whole area, my first time meandering through these streets.
We meander to Willys wine bar. Ilove this place. The atmosphere the WINE,it is great!
We are walking down rue des petits champs and we get to avenue de l'opera. What a magnificent sight when you make that turn and see the Opera Garnier in all her glory.
First time I have taken the time to see this, and it did not dissapoint!
We spent some here, did not take the tour though.
We then start to walk toward the Madeleinne church. Our goal now is to mustard tasting at Maille. We find the mustard stor, what a treat that was! We sampled a cassis mustard, tarragon mustard, caper mustard, chablis mustard, vin blanc mustard, and I am forgetting alot of them!! Very intersting, of course I came home with mustard!
We are now off to Musee Nissom De Camondo, right by Parc Monceau. Wow, this will be a musee I will be back to. It really is a timepiece. Too much to go into detail. The musee itself was a residence at one time of jewish banking family. They ended up perishing at Auschwitz. But the house is intact how they left it. It was built as a replica of Petite Trianon at Versailles.Beautiful artwork, furnishings, china, just a very stunning gem of a musee, and definitely haunting because of the story.
We then start walking back to Hotel Danube. We ate at Bistro overlooking Madeleinne church. yummy onion soup!
We did walk into the chuch and mass was going on. Another beautiful church.
We have reservations for dinner at 8:30, I will post the name of the restaurant at the end of the report. It was fantastic!! We always did the prix fixe meals, which really was a treat. To have all the freshest produce and dishes of day was heaven.
Mar 11th, 2005, 09:02 AM
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We are going to Beaune, March 6 through the 8th. I bought the train tickets on SNCF, prem fares. I then had the tickets mailed to my hotel worked like a dream.
As we are pulling out of Paris, the white paris, the countryside starts to get greener closer to Beaune.
We have reserved Hotel Grillon for one night in Beaune, and Hostellier Viex Moulin in Bouilland for one night
I would highly recommend both hotels, very different in styles but both very nice. I will continue to post about Beaune soon!
As we are pulling out of Paris, the white paris, the countryside starts to get greener closer to Beaune.
We have reserved Hotel Grillon for one night in Beaune, and Hostellier Viex Moulin in Bouilland for one night
I would highly recommend both hotels, very different in styles but both very nice. I will continue to post about Beaune soon!
Mar 14th, 2005, 04:13 AM
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We have arrived in Beaune, we are staying at Hotel Grillon. It is a fairly quick walk from the train station to the hotel.
Very charming hotel, I do not know the owners name, but she speaks wonderful English and is very inviting.
We have two rooms, one double and one twin. We chose the rooms with shower only. We paid 52 euro, what a bargain!
All tile floors throughout,
Very charming hotel, I do not know the owners name, but she speaks wonderful English and is very inviting.
We have two rooms, one double and one twin. We chose the rooms with shower only. We paid 52 euro, what a bargain!
All tile floors throughout,
Mar 14th, 2005, 04:25 AM
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Did not mean to post!! OK, tile floor throughout the hotel. Be careful and do not drop your wine glass on the floor like me!! I have never seen a glass shatter into so many pieces!!!
we walk to the city center of Beaune, our first stop is Hospices. All I can say is wow. Take the audio tour it is good. Such an interesting story. We stayed there a couple hours.
Now we are off the eat! I do not know any of the restaurants we ate at in Beaune. But we enjoyed coq au vin, boef borgonoene, [spelling], and very yummy flatbreads.We tried to eat at Ma Cuisine but it was closed.
There are alot of chocolate shops in Beaune! Good thing we walk alot, we definetely indulged with food and wine on this trip!
We stop in to a couple wine shops, and the owners of both shops were so helpful! They were priming us for our day of winetasting. We learned so much about Burgundy, especially Cote d'Or.
It is time for us to get a good nights rest, we walked back to the hotel at night. There was absolutely no problems getting to our hotel. It is right outside the city center.
we walk to the city center of Beaune, our first stop is Hospices. All I can say is wow. Take the audio tour it is good. Such an interesting story. We stayed there a couple hours.
Now we are off the eat! I do not know any of the restaurants we ate at in Beaune. But we enjoyed coq au vin, boef borgonoene, [spelling], and very yummy flatbreads.We tried to eat at Ma Cuisine but it was closed.
There are alot of chocolate shops in Beaune! Good thing we walk alot, we definetely indulged with food and wine on this trip!
We stop in to a couple wine shops, and the owners of both shops were so helpful! They were priming us for our day of winetasting. We learned so much about Burgundy, especially Cote d'Or.
It is time for us to get a good nights rest, we walked back to the hotel at night. There was absolutely no problems getting to our hotel. It is right outside the city center.
Mar 14th, 2005, 07:15 AM
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Our second day on Beaune. Did I say it was green coming in from snowy Paris? Well we woke up to a winter wonderland in Beaune! Of course this is our one and only driving day in France too.
We have breakfast at Hotel Grillon, it was 9 euro. They served grains, yogurt, fruit, croissents, breads, juices, coffee, teas. Very satifying breakfast and cute little breakfast room. We thought it was amusing since this was a ladies trip for us, it was interesting that the whole hotel was filled with ladies on their own also!!
No men at this hotel in March!
We rented our car from ADA, they are located at the train station. They were the most reasonable for one day only rental.
Well we were in for a shock, I rented a midsize car. They upgraded me for the only car they had. A ten person van! It was a boat, we were a little intimidated by the size of this vechicle. But we are on a mission to taste wines, and this is our transport.
We were planning to take some obscure backroads but because of the snow we will be on route 74.
We arrive in Nuits-St-Georges, what a charmining village. I have one winery booked for tasting, the rest of the day we are going to wing it.
Our first wine tasting is at Morin Perre Et Filles. You do not need an appointment for this establishment. The gentleman is very charming, not a lot of English and we speak no French but did communicate.
We have already discovered we like the wines of Nuits-St-Georges better than Beaune regione. Nuits wines are fuller bodied.
We than do a cassis tasting. This is where I fall in love with creme de peche. So, alas, I buy a bottle of creme de casis and creme de peche!
We are now ready for lunch. I order my kir peche [yummy] and a chaud chevre salad. The salad is the best goat cheese salad I have had in France [yet] My friends had coq au vin, boef burgundy, it was all delicious.
We are now ready for our serious wine tasting at Domaine Chantal Lescure. The owner is Catherine Ronne. Unfortunetly she did not have our appointment, but she still found the time to give us a tour. What a interesting tour, the whole overview of the winemaking process, the soil, everything.
Catherine is so passionate about what she does. She really makes you think about wine, in a whole new way. It really is a living thing, and when you drink the wine you are really drinking every flavor from the soil. The earthiness, the sun, all that went into the grape and its skin to produce the wine you are drinking!
I will never open another bottle of wine and not think of some pearl of wisdom that Catherin said.
I bought Chambolle Musigny 2002, Les mombies, an Pommard 2001 Les Vaumuriens. They are still maturing, so I will need to lay them down a few years before I can indulge. Boy this is going to be hard!!
Our next Domaine is Georges Chicotot. We made an appointment when we arrived in Nuits-St-Georges. We met Pasquala, Georges wife. What a gift she is! So funny, full of life, very intersting lady!
We did barrel tasting at this Domaine. PasQuala's husband George is 7th generation wine maker. We tasted the wines in their roman vaulted caves. Wow, just standing in the vaulted Roman caves with all those wines was an experince.
We were priveledged to taste 6 different barrels. We enjoyed their wines immensely. I bought 1st cru Nuits-St-Georges Les Vaucrains, 2002. Another vintage that need a little more aging. Boy it is going to be hard being patient!
I have another footnote, my sister was the designated driver, and after 6 tastings in a Roman cave I am glad I am not driving!
My next report will be on Bouilland. We dined at 1 star michelin rated restaurant and hotel. The name is Hotel Vieux moulin.
We have breakfast at Hotel Grillon, it was 9 euro. They served grains, yogurt, fruit, croissents, breads, juices, coffee, teas. Very satifying breakfast and cute little breakfast room. We thought it was amusing since this was a ladies trip for us, it was interesting that the whole hotel was filled with ladies on their own also!!
No men at this hotel in March!
We rented our car from ADA, they are located at the train station. They were the most reasonable for one day only rental.
Well we were in for a shock, I rented a midsize car. They upgraded me for the only car they had. A ten person van! It was a boat, we were a little intimidated by the size of this vechicle. But we are on a mission to taste wines, and this is our transport.
We were planning to take some obscure backroads but because of the snow we will be on route 74.
We arrive in Nuits-St-Georges, what a charmining village. I have one winery booked for tasting, the rest of the day we are going to wing it.
Our first wine tasting is at Morin Perre Et Filles. You do not need an appointment for this establishment. The gentleman is very charming, not a lot of English and we speak no French but did communicate.
We have already discovered we like the wines of Nuits-St-Georges better than Beaune regione. Nuits wines are fuller bodied.
We than do a cassis tasting. This is where I fall in love with creme de peche. So, alas, I buy a bottle of creme de casis and creme de peche!
We are now ready for lunch. I order my kir peche [yummy] and a chaud chevre salad. The salad is the best goat cheese salad I have had in France [yet] My friends had coq au vin, boef burgundy, it was all delicious.
We are now ready for our serious wine tasting at Domaine Chantal Lescure. The owner is Catherine Ronne. Unfortunetly she did not have our appointment, but she still found the time to give us a tour. What a interesting tour, the whole overview of the winemaking process, the soil, everything.
Catherine is so passionate about what she does. She really makes you think about wine, in a whole new way. It really is a living thing, and when you drink the wine you are really drinking every flavor from the soil. The earthiness, the sun, all that went into the grape and its skin to produce the wine you are drinking!
I will never open another bottle of wine and not think of some pearl of wisdom that Catherin said.
I bought Chambolle Musigny 2002, Les mombies, an Pommard 2001 Les Vaumuriens. They are still maturing, so I will need to lay them down a few years before I can indulge. Boy this is going to be hard!!
Our next Domaine is Georges Chicotot. We made an appointment when we arrived in Nuits-St-Georges. We met Pasquala, Georges wife. What a gift she is! So funny, full of life, very intersting lady!
We did barrel tasting at this Domaine. PasQuala's husband George is 7th generation wine maker. We tasted the wines in their roman vaulted caves. Wow, just standing in the vaulted Roman caves with all those wines was an experince.
We were priveledged to taste 6 different barrels. We enjoyed their wines immensely. I bought 1st cru Nuits-St-Georges Les Vaucrains, 2002. Another vintage that need a little more aging. Boy it is going to be hard being patient!
I have another footnote, my sister was the designated driver, and after 6 tastings in a Roman cave I am glad I am not driving!
My next report will be on Bouilland. We dined at 1 star michelin rated restaurant and hotel. The name is Hotel Vieux moulin.
Mar 14th, 2005, 07:52 AM
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The road to Bouilland is totally snow covered. It is quite hilly also. We arrive in this sleepy little village around 8:00 pm. The front desk thinks we are quite brave to forge ahead with our plans to drive here. In fact every guest has cancelled their dining reservations except us!!
we are now dining at a one star michelin restaurant with our own private chef!1
I will print out what we ordered
Tarte de trompettes et chataignes, jus mousseux, cylindre de queue de boeuf, speck seche
langoustiness sautees, mangue et legumes, sorbet avocat
dorade sauvage rotie en ecailles, pulpe de celeri, emulsion d asperges
1/2 poitrine de pigeon rot encage de pomme de terre et la cuisse comme un paramentier d'oignon
notre selection de fromages frais et affaines
of course we received all kinds of amusements!
My dessert souffle, we ate and ate and had wonderful wine pairings also!
The hotel was nice, maybe some updating is in order. But the beds and pillows were outstanding!
we are now dining at a one star michelin restaurant with our own private chef!1
I will print out what we ordered
Tarte de trompettes et chataignes, jus mousseux, cylindre de queue de boeuf, speck seche
langoustiness sautees, mangue et legumes, sorbet avocat
dorade sauvage rotie en ecailles, pulpe de celeri, emulsion d asperges
1/2 poitrine de pigeon rot encage de pomme de terre et la cuisse comme un paramentier d'oignon
notre selection de fromages frais et affaines
of course we received all kinds of amusements!
My dessert souffle, we ate and ate and had wonderful wine pairings also!
The hotel was nice, maybe some updating is in order. But the beds and pillows were outstanding!
Mar 14th, 2005, 10:43 AM
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Was your room at the hotel in the "modern" section? We too found the upkeep and décor there much in need of refurbishment. The traditional rooms, however, are still in good shape and charming. Our impression was that the new owner is focusing more on the restaurant than on the hotel.
Mar 14th, 2005, 11:15 AM
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I think we must have stayed in the modern section, which I would say was modern in the 60's! The restaurant was so outstanding, I am so spoiled I do not want to eat anything in the states!
Mar 14th, 2005, 11:40 AM
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I know just the feeling!!!
If you find yourselves in Provence some happy time, be sure to reserve for lunch or dinner (or both) at Jean-Pierre Silva's restaurant near Grasse, La Table de Mon Moulin. His food is still magic.
If you find yourselves in Provence some happy time, be sure to reserve for lunch or dinner (or both) at Jean-Pierre Silva's restaurant near Grasse, La Table de Mon Moulin. His food is still magic.
Mar 15th, 2005, 04:06 AM
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We are back on the train to Paris. It is March 8, Tuesday our last day.
We take the TGV in the morning, so we have time to stroll around Paris the last day.
Our plans are to finally see the St. DEnis Basilque.
We check in Hotel Du Danube, and are off to the metro. The metro ride is about 1/2 hour from Invalides to St. Denis.
I have read that the area is seedy, ect. From my own experience it is totally safe around the church. I have felt more concerned around montmarte or the flea markets oun st. puches [spelling]
I really was spellbound, we listened to the audio and it was very good.
What an amazing church. It really is hard to take it all in, I will return to soak up some more of the history on a return trip to Paris.
It is our last night so we want to eat somewhere fun. We tried to get in Willys Wine Bar but no luck. So we made reservations for Maceo on Rue des Petites-Champs. What a beautiful restaurant.
We decided on the prix-fixe vegetarian.
Be careful withe the vegertarian in Paris they sometimes will still serve you fish!
I had timbale withe all kinds of vegetable, it was delicious. My friends had the tabuloh, they loved it. I had a wonderful salad, and for dessert I had the cheese assortment. I ordered a Sauternes for my dessert wine. It was wonderful! The sommelier at Maceo was awesome. We let him pick out our wines. What a wealth of information at these restaurants if you take advantage of it.
It was a great send off for a wonderful trip that was coming to a close. We did mange to find a place for nightcap, that was hopping. We then walked back to our hotel along the Seine. The snow had finally melted.
On a side note, this last day was finally the day we could sit in a Bistro and people watch. It was sunny, a little brisk, but no more snow!
Au revoir,
We take the TGV in the morning, so we have time to stroll around Paris the last day.
Our plans are to finally see the St. DEnis Basilque.
We check in Hotel Du Danube, and are off to the metro. The metro ride is about 1/2 hour from Invalides to St. Denis.
I have read that the area is seedy, ect. From my own experience it is totally safe around the church. I have felt more concerned around montmarte or the flea markets oun st. puches [spelling]
I really was spellbound, we listened to the audio and it was very good.
What an amazing church. It really is hard to take it all in, I will return to soak up some more of the history on a return trip to Paris.
It is our last night so we want to eat somewhere fun. We tried to get in Willys Wine Bar but no luck. So we made reservations for Maceo on Rue des Petites-Champs. What a beautiful restaurant.
We decided on the prix-fixe vegetarian.
Be careful withe the vegertarian in Paris they sometimes will still serve you fish!
I had timbale withe all kinds of vegetable, it was delicious. My friends had the tabuloh, they loved it. I had a wonderful salad, and for dessert I had the cheese assortment. I ordered a Sauternes for my dessert wine. It was wonderful! The sommelier at Maceo was awesome. We let him pick out our wines. What a wealth of information at these restaurants if you take advantage of it.
It was a great send off for a wonderful trip that was coming to a close. We did mange to find a place for nightcap, that was hopping. We then walked back to our hotel along the Seine. The snow had finally melted.
On a side note, this last day was finally the day we could sit in a Bistro and people watch. It was sunny, a little brisk, but no more snow!
Au revoir,
