Warsaw: Yes or No?
 

I have been doing a lot of research for my next trip to Europe, which will include Poland (first time). I will be spending 5 to 6 days in that country. I have already given 2-3 days to Krakow and was thinking of another 2-3 days to Warsaw. After reading a lot of postings, now I am not sure on what to do. Do you have any suggestions? Other towns or regions instead of Warsaw? After Poland I will be travelling (by train) to Prague, so please take this into account. Thanks in advance.

McH, I'd say it depends on your interests. As you probably know, Warsaw was largely destroyed by the Nazis and had to be rebuilt - the central square is a marvel of restoration and is rightly a source of great national pride in Poland. If you enjoy visiting restored squares or monuments, or want to partake of the cultural events and offerings only capital cities can offer, then go. That said, Krakow is such a gem that I'd be tempted to add a couple of days more in the south, which will also make the trip to Prague easier, too. You could add Zakopane and the Tatras to the agenda (Poland has mountains, really!) as a side trip. Also near Krakow is Auschwitz, a somber but IMO important day trip, too.

Fodors <BR> <BR>No. There's an outlying palace or two, but the whole centre is rebuilt after Adolf Hitler's dynamiting of it, and is dull. I'd choose Torun, Gdansk, Wroclaw (on the way to Prague) or the old town around the square in Poznan. To see what they offer you can use http://www.yahoo.com, then sreek "Torun travel", "Poznan travel",and so on. <BR> <BR>Please write if I can help further. <BR> <BR>Ben Haines, London <BR> <BR>

We spent a similar period in Poland earlier this year. The restored Old Town of Warsaw is pleasant enough but beyond that Warsaw hasn't got a great deal to commend it. Gdansk is quite nice, Torun was okay but only worth an hour or two, and Krakow is very attractive. It is very difficult to mention in the same breath as the tourist sites, but Auschwitz and Treblinka are profoundly moving. We also went to the Wolfsschanze (Hitler's HQ up in East Prussia) which was a very long drive but very interesting. But there again it took a long time to drive anywhere...

How timely this question is! I am sitting in an internet cafe in Warsaw on my second day here. It is now 6 PM and we have had a wonderful day today, and all afternoon yesterday after arriving from Krakow about 11 AM yesterday. Warsaw's old town square is indeed lovely. People complain about its being totally rebuilt since the war so it isn't really authentic. But let's be honest. Any medieval square in Europe has been totally rebuilt over the centuries, building by building, so what is the difference? Yesterday we walked along the river and through the major parks of Warsaw, enjoying the atmosphere of a lively city on a wonderful summer Sunday afternoon. A highlight was the free Chopin concert at the Chopin memorial in the midst of a huge rose garden, attended by several hundred locals. We had a spectacular dinner last night in the cellar of Gessler's on the old town square and enjoyed the atmosphere and entertainers before and after dinner. Today, we took the bus to Wilanow, a wonderful palace and gardens south of town, that are somewhat copied from Versailles, but in a much smaller scale. Afterwards we visited the Stalinesque architecture of the Palace of Culture and Science for a view from the 30th floor terrace of this huge city. Yes, the sidewalks here are crumbling, the central area of the city is indeed ugly, and there are not enough things to do here to keep the average tourist busy for too long. But our two night stay has been great, as was our three nights in Kracow, where we visited Auschwitz, the salt mines, and many of the local museums and buildings. Yes, Krakow is a don't miss city, but Warsaw is interesting too, and we can't wait to visit Gdansk for a couple of days, starting tomorrow.

McH - <BR> <BR>I agree with Julian that there are lovely things to see and do in Warsaw (the free Chopin concert on Sunday afternoon is one of my favorite memories from my trip to Poland!). However, there are definitely more beautiful, more historic, and more interesting places in Poland! <BR> <BR>Gdansk is great, although it is at the opposite end of the country from Krakow, so it may be too difficult for you to get to. If you do go there, though, take a side trip to Malbork, the Teutonic Knights castle - very cool! I found Torun to be very quaint and the first truly authentically medieval town we saw in Poland. There is definitely more to see and do here than is possible in the 1 hour's worth of time suggested! IMO, Wroclaw was OK but not terribly exciting. <BR> <BR>Given the 5-6 days you have to spend, I would second John's suggestion to concentrate on the southern part of the country. Krakow itself is a beautiful, historic, and lively city, and there are many side trips possible in this area. Zakopane is a lovely mountain town, with lots of crafts (wood carving, leather, etc.) and quaint wooden architecture. The mountains are beautiful (the Tatras are Poland's Alps; Zakopane recently lost its bid to host the 2006 Winter Olympics :(). The salt mines in Wieliczka are touristy but fun! Auschwitz/Birkenau is chilling.... I will never forget the sick sensation I felt standing in the central watch tower, looking at the vast size of the Birkenau death camp (and knowing the Nazis were in the process of expanding it). Czestochowa is fascinating--the Black Madonna, Poland's holiest icon, is there and the pilgrimages are never-ending. (Check out the walls where they display the gifts/offerings made to the Black Madonna (crutches, white canes, eyeglasses, and literally thousands of rosaries).) There is also a string of ruined castles between Czestochowa and Krakow that I didn't get to see, but it sounds like an interesting drive.... <BR> <BR>Whatever you decide to do, have fun in Poland! IMHO, it's one of the most under-appreciated countries in Europe (but don't spread that around too much; we don't want to ruin it with a tourist invasion!).

Ben is right - I would skip Warsaw which is overpriced and would visit Zakopane - south of Krakow in Tatry Mtns - small beautiful romantic city surrounded by Tatry, which you can hike or use lifts and similar to get to peaks or take one of very many horse carragies to show you the area. Make sure you have reservations. Good Budget hotel in center is Gazda - but you can also stay in many private B&B. <BR> <BR>There are so many attractions around Krakow I would not waste my time on Warsaw. There are also overnight trains to Gdansk, Malbork and Torun which are also nice. You can e-mail me if you need more info (just take "NS" out for no spam)

McH <BR>Don´t miss Warsaw, it´s a beautiful city, plenty of things to see and enjoy. The Old Town was rebuilt yes, but it´s lovely and no one can deny their right to have a past still present, even if it´s not the original. In the Old Town you can see also the Royal Route and the Royal Castle, that is quite nice. There are lots of good places to eat (try Tzarina or Fukier, both great), it´s very interesting walk around the Old Town and their little streets. If you do this at night, you´ll have the feeling that you are in the Middle Age. <BR>There are also a park called Lazienski, that are wonderful, plenty of red roses and a monument for Chopin. There are the Jewish Ghetto (it doesn´t exist anymore, but a tour around their original place is very interesting). If you want to shop, go to the Marshall Street and Nowy Swiat. And don´t worry, people talks english almost everywhere. <BR>Warsaw is well for 3 days, 4 maximum. Don´t miss Krakow, all city is original and it´s wonderful. Go to the Castle, take a drink on the central square, walk and walk around the city, it´s a wonderful experience. From Krakow you can go to Auschwitz and Treblinka. It´s very touching and sentimental, and a visit only will take one afternoon. It´s a live class of history. You can also go to the salt mines. Krakow deserves 2 or 3 days, plus the other visits. <BR>If you are going by train to Prague (another wonderful city), don´t wait to much from them. They are old and ugly. Last July me and my husband went from Warsaw to Prague by train and it wasn´t our best trip by train (and we pick up a cabin for two only). The custom autorities will ask many times for your passport and the train tickets, it´s a little odd. We stayed at Europejski Hotel, which have one of the most delicious breakfasts I ever had. It´s near the Old Town and the shopping streets. if you need other informations, just let me know, ok? Send me an e-mail and I will be glad sharing informations with you, about Warsaw or Prague. <BR> <BR>Débora - São Paulo - Brazil

Fodors <BR> <BR>A detail. If you do choose to include Poznan or Torun you can find a sleeping car in atrain train from Kakow, cheap and time saving. <BR> <BR>The trouble is, everybody's right. Can you perhaps double or triple your time in beautiful Poland ? <BR> <BR>Ben Haines <BR> <BR>

Guys <BR> <BR>Thanks for your advice. I have to conclusions from your postings: <BR> <BR>1) Will have to see Warsaw with my own eyes, experiment the city and draw my own conclusions. <BR> <BR>2) MUST give more days to Poland!!!!! <BR> <BR>Thanks

<BR> <BR> McH, <BR> I live in Warsaw. If you have any questions feel free to e-mail me.

With respect to Debora, her statement "From Krakow you can go to Auschwitz and <BR>Treblinka...a visit only will take one afternoon" is a bit misleading. Treblinka is a completely different part of the country to Krakow and there is a long distance in between. Perhaps she means the two camps which make up Auschwitz-Birkenau. Malbork slipped my mind in the last post I made - we stayed in the castle, which is a very impressive building with some very grim Soviet style housing right next to it. The town itself isn't much. By the way, if you do get to drive, beware of the roads that run into rivers - we stupidly did not pay attention to the car ferry markings on the roads in our maps until it was too late, and ended up driving right up to the edge of the Vistula with no ferry in sight near Kwi

The website crashed. Here's the rest of it: ....near Kwidzyn. The road stops dead. The river was very low and so we went a lot further on the road than you normally can. Anyway, it made a good photo so we did it again when we took a look at Gniew.

Around this time there are Knight Tournaments in Gniew Castle and the castle in Golub-Dobrzyn. Malbork with it's huge castle/museum also has a nice collection of Amber. In Warsaw try staying near Old City - Hotel Europejski or with more stars hotel Victoria (check their weekend rates by calling direct) also check those sites: <BR>www.hotelspoland.com <BR>www.polhotels.com <BR>www.hotelsinpoland.com <BR>center Warsaw is kind of gray and busy, but if you need to be close to central train station check Forum Hotel.

Julian <BR> <BR>Thank you for correcting my mistake. I wanted to write Auschwitz-Birkenau, and by mistake wrote Treblinka. Sorry! <BR>I've been there last July, but didn't have time to go to Treblinka, so I'll have to go back another time to Poland, to see that camp and other places that I couldn't see this time. <BR>Thanks again! <BR> <BR>Débora