Want help with Itinerary for Basque country + where else in Spain? 14-day
Dec 13th, 2019, 11:11 PM
#41
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And Bayonne, which is by far much more interesting than Biarritz or St Jean de Luz, and makes an excellent base for the French Basque Country and beyond, is largely ignored for some reason that I don´t know!
Dec 15th, 2019, 05:08 AM
#43
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That's interesting. A friend who lived in San Sebastien for 20 years just recommended Biarritz over Bayonne. What do you find more interesting about Bayonne? What would you recommend seeing and doing there?
Dec 15th, 2019, 06:20 AM
#44
I've stayed in Bayonne twice, and it is a better base for day trips by public transport. I'm not a beach person, so I skipped Biarritz on my first visit, but I enjoyed it more than I expected when I did get around to it. Biarritz has been on the tourist circuit for a long time and I though Bayonne felt more "everyday".
See: https://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com...ng-in-bayonne/
And: https://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com...iful-biarritz/
See: https://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com...ng-in-bayonne/
And: https://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com...iful-biarritz/
Dec 15th, 2019, 10:08 AM
#45
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Dec 15th, 2019, 02:22 PM
#46
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Bayonne feels also for me more real/authentic/everyday/historic with its citadel and cathedral, as Mikel and Thursdaysd suggest.
I used to say that it doesn't "pretty up" for tourists, although the city is undergoing a major beautification effort all over town (new pavements, pedestrianized squares, a redesign of the St Esprit quarter, a new Bayonne-Anglet-Biarritz Trambus, major remodeling of the art museum, etc.).
And as Mikel notes, it's well communicated; there's also the TER train down to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port and the excellent Chronoplus bus system that takes us to Biarritz, Anglet or Bidart for 1 euro.
But...I'm going to stand up a little bit for Biarritz, just from a perspective of a yearly summer visitor but not one of a native Basque, like my good friend mikelg.
.
For me Biarritz isn't disappointing (as a tourist), as I expect an oceanside resort (with its golf, tennis, thalassotherapy) and do enjoy its architecture, its beautiful beaches, its walks, its market (Wed. night market in July/August), its Aquarium, its dining and yes, its shops (but St-Jean-de-Luz & Bayonne have identical shops).
I've never sat foot in the Casino and don't stay at the du Palais ($$$$$). I don't find it stuffy any more (although I used to think it would be) because of the growing prevalence of the young, casual surfing crowd.
We found a cozy Biarritz this summer, around the corner from Les Halles and finally will be able to enjoy all the bounty of that great market.
Just a note for papier1: it will be more difficult to find a short term rental for 6 in Bayonne, as there just aren't many, since it's not an international resort but a workaday town.
That said, for our month in the Basque lands we choose from these bases:
Bayonne, Biarritz or St-Jean-de-Luz on the French side (or a 3-flower inland village like Sare or Espelette if we have a car),
In Gipuzkoa on the Spanish side, either Getaria or San Sebastián or Hondarribia
In Bizkaia, either Bilbao for a city stay or Urdaibai for the country
In the Rioja Alavesa (the wine sub zone that sits in the Basque Country province of Alava), Laguardia or nearby
and Pamplona for San Fermín because we attend every year, although, no, it's not officially part of the Basque Country, but it and Northern Navarra feel culturally Basque (and we were married there).
I just want to say that whatever one decides about where to stay in the Basque lands, it's all good! *
I used to say that it doesn't "pretty up" for tourists, although the city is undergoing a major beautification effort all over town (new pavements, pedestrianized squares, a redesign of the St Esprit quarter, a new Bayonne-Anglet-Biarritz Trambus, major remodeling of the art museum, etc.).
And as Mikel notes, it's well communicated; there's also the TER train down to St-Jean-Pied-de-Port and the excellent Chronoplus bus system that takes us to Biarritz, Anglet or Bidart for 1 euro.
But...I'm going to stand up a little bit for Biarritz, just from a perspective of a yearly summer visitor but not one of a native Basque, like my good friend mikelg.
.For me Biarritz isn't disappointing (as a tourist), as I expect an oceanside resort (with its golf, tennis, thalassotherapy) and do enjoy its architecture, its beautiful beaches, its walks, its market (Wed. night market in July/August), its Aquarium, its dining and yes, its shops (but St-Jean-de-Luz & Bayonne have identical shops).
I've never sat foot in the Casino and don't stay at the du Palais ($$$$$). I don't find it stuffy any more (although I used to think it would be) because of the growing prevalence of the young, casual surfing crowd.
We found a cozy Biarritz this summer, around the corner from Les Halles and finally will be able to enjoy all the bounty of that great market.
Just a note for papier1: it will be more difficult to find a short term rental for 6 in Bayonne, as there just aren't many, since it's not an international resort but a workaday town.
That said, for our month in the Basque lands we choose from these bases:
Bayonne, Biarritz or St-Jean-de-Luz on the French side (or a 3-flower inland village like Sare or Espelette if we have a car),
In Gipuzkoa on the Spanish side, either Getaria or San Sebastián or Hondarribia
In Bizkaia, either Bilbao for a city stay or Urdaibai for the country
In the Rioja Alavesa (the wine sub zone that sits in the Basque Country province of Alava), Laguardia or nearby
and Pamplona for San Fermín because we attend every year, although, no, it's not officially part of the Basque Country, but it and Northern Navarra feel culturally Basque (and we were married there).
I just want to say that whatever one decides about where to stay in the Basque lands, it's all good! *
Last edited by Maribel; Dec 15th, 2019 at 02:27 PM.
Dec 26th, 2019, 10:12 PM
#47
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All, thank you again for your recommendations and comments. I have spent hours doing more research and planning. Currently the plan is to fly into SS from Barcelona, rent a car there and drive to our French home base of St Jean de Luz (or Bayonne) where we'll stay for 3-4 nights (haven't decided yet which of those two towns). We want a car for more independent exploration of the countryside and coast. Then we'll drive to SS and make that our home base for another 3-4 nights. From SS, we will do a couple of day trips, possibly an organized tour to wine country (so we don't have to drive back!) as well as spend time in town. We will drop the car off at the SS or Bilbao airport either when we depart, or possibly earlier.
Questions:
1) What are "must see and do" in the town of SS itself, in addition to pinxtos and food?
2) Would we miss out on the flavor and culture of SS if we stay on the outskirts of town (~10-15 min ride in)? Lodging is more affordable further out. Is the SS "center" a special place?
3) I'm assuming that we will manage fine in St Jean de Luz and Bayonne without speaking French. Is that a correct assumption?
Questions:
1) What are "must see and do" in the town of SS itself, in addition to pinxtos and food?
2) Would we miss out on the flavor and culture of SS if we stay on the outskirts of town (~10-15 min ride in)? Lodging is more affordable further out. Is the SS "center" a special place?
3) I'm assuming that we will manage fine in St Jean de Luz and Bayonne without speaking French. Is that a correct assumption?
Last edited by papier1; Dec 26th, 2019 at 10:14 PM.
Dec 26th, 2019, 10:35 PM
#48
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1) What are "must see and do" in the town of SS itself, in addition to pinxtos and food? Not much, the city can be seen in just a few hours. The Funicular to Igeldo mountain for the best views of the city, the Comb of the Wind nearby and the walks by the beach. And then, walking around the city, but it has no remarkable monuments or anything.
2) Would we miss out on the flavor and culture of SS if we stay on the outskirts of town (~10-15 min ride in)? Lodging is more affordable further out. Is the SS "center" a special place? A good idea. San Sebastian is a very nice city, walkable, with a good lively atmosphere, but if the cost of lodging is a problem, you may want to stay in Hondarribia, for example.
3) I'm assuming that we will manage fine in St Jean de Luz and Bayonne without speaking French. Is that a correct assumption? Yes, although don´t expect a high number of English speaking locals in both the Spanish and French Basque Country.
I would not miss a visit to Bilbao, with many more things to enjoy and beautiful surroundings.
2) Would we miss out on the flavor and culture of SS if we stay on the outskirts of town (~10-15 min ride in)? Lodging is more affordable further out. Is the SS "center" a special place? A good idea. San Sebastian is a very nice city, walkable, with a good lively atmosphere, but if the cost of lodging is a problem, you may want to stay in Hondarribia, for example.
3) I'm assuming that we will manage fine in St Jean de Luz and Bayonne without speaking French. Is that a correct assumption? Yes, although don´t expect a high number of English speaking locals in both the Spanish and French Basque Country.
I would not miss a visit to Bilbao, with many more things to enjoy and beautiful surroundings.
Dec 26th, 2019, 11:16 PM
#50
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mikelg and kja, thanks for your quick reply.
We are planning to visit Bilbao -- and now your responses are promping the question: Would Bilbao make a better "home base" than SS? I mean as our second home base in the Basque Country after spending 3 days in St. Jean de Luz. We can make day tours from Bilbao as well as SS. My assumption is both towns will have excellent food options.
(I was thinking you are up late, but I realize I am the one who is up late and it's morning for you!)
We are planning to visit Bilbao -- and now your responses are promping the question: Would Bilbao make a better "home base" than SS? I mean as our second home base in the Basque Country after spending 3 days in St. Jean de Luz. We can make day tours from Bilbao as well as SS. My assumption is both towns will have excellent food options.
(I was thinking you are up late, but I realize I am the one who is up late and it's morning for you!)
Dec 27th, 2019, 02:27 AM
#51
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Well, it's true that I wish we'd spent more time in Bilbao, and it's probably true that we don't really need to see monuments on every trip we take, but we didn't get bored for a minute during the full week we spent in SS. Walking around the center, and up into the hills and along the beach and to surrounding neighborhoods was the best part of it (along with La Perla spa); the city gardens are beautiful. And while it wasn't the nicest apartment we've ever rented, it was perfectly adequate, less than 10 minutes' walk to the beach, and affordable. I would not have wanted to be somewhere on the outskirts.
Dec 27th, 2019, 08:00 AM
#52
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The advantages of Bilbao as a home base are (normally) cheaper lodging, and distances and things to do and see. It´s a one hour drive to Donostia-San Sebastian, one hour to Rioja Alavesa (just been there today with friends, visiting several wineries) and one hour to Santander. Also, a beautiful coast with quaint towns, like Plentzia, Mundaka, Bermeo, Gernika, Ea, Elantxobe, Lekeitio..., and an easy access to the inland towns (Elorrio, Durango area and the mountains, valley of Karrantza,...). Then, the city has a great old quarter, beautiful architecture in the city center, a riverwalk full of amenities, the museum of fine arts (second to El Prado in Spain), Guggy, funicular, Azkuna Zentroa, Gran Vía and the palaces...Pintxos are all over the Basque Country (they are never a meal for us, but an appetizer to go with your drink, I posted a "guide" on how to have them long ago in Fodor´s) and Bilbao has pintxos bars all over the place too (although SS is renowned by them). But I may be biased as a Bilbao local, of course!!! It may be a question of tossing a coin...
Last edited by mikelg; Dec 27th, 2019 at 08:02 AM. Reason: adding new info
Dec 27th, 2019, 05:47 PM
#53
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FWIW, one thing I loved about both cities was being able to roam around in the evening and to appreciate the lively comraderie that seems such a part of Basque culture. Personally, I would not want to stay somewhere that didn't offer that opportunity. JMO.
Dec 28th, 2019, 01:04 AM
#54
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That "comraderie" means that, by the time you are having dinner in the US and stay home afterwards, we (friends and families) like to go out to enjoy a walk and to socialize having a glass of wine in the many bars (family oriented) in our cities. The compact structure of our towns and cities makes it easy, as we live inside the city or town, normally, not in the outskirts in spread out neighbourhoods. You´re going to love it!
Dec 28th, 2019, 01:24 PM
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papier1,
Just a few thoughts about your questions:
"1) What are "must see and do" in the town of SS itself, in addition to pinxtos and food?"
In addition to those listed above, you might really enjoy a bus ride out to the newly reopened Chillida Leku open air sculpture museum and the original Basque farmhouse. The large park is filled with his monumental sculptures and the farmhouse has a collection of etchings and lithographs. It makes for a great morning or afternoon excursion. Eduardo Chillida is the late Basque sculptor, known for his monumental works of iron and steel, some of which you'll find in San Sebastián, particularly his famous "The Comb of the Wind" that mikelg mentions, at the end of Ondarreta beach.
The museum is open every day except Tuesdays and closes Wednesdays from November-February.
https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2...sculpture-park.
https://www.museochillidaleku.com/en/home-dev/.
"2) Would we miss out on the flavor and culture of SS if we stay on the outskirts of town (~10-15 min ride in)? Lodging is more affordable further out. Is the SS "center" a special place?"
Lodging will be more affordable in May in Hondarribia, for example, but you'll have a 30-minute drive from Hondarribia into SS center, and the cost of underground parking. We've done it both ways, staying in a very affordable "casa rural" with 3 bedrooms up in the hills of Hondarribia. The new Goiznabar agroturism sleeps 8, which would be an affordable option, with 4 bedrooms, 4 baths and price includes breakfast. Agroturismo Goiz Nabar | Hondarribia. You can see other options at https://www.nekatur.net/Default.aspx?lang=en-US.
But that said...when in Hondarribia we do miss the liveliness of strolling around SS in the evenings and walking along the La Concha promenade, just beautiful at night. For a first visit to the Basque Country, it might be preferable to have a small town base (such as St-Jean-de-Luz on the French side) and a city base (either San Sebastián or Bilbao). From St-Jean-de-Luz it's an easy 30-minute drive to the center of Hondarribia for a day trip.
"3) I'm assuming that we will manage fine in St Jean de Luz and Bayonne without speaking French. Is that a correct assumption?"
Yes, my French is very minimal and I manage every summer in both towns.
"Would Bilbao be a better home base than San Sebastián?"
For all of the reasons that mikelg mentions above, it might be, given your interests. And it certainly has a far less touristy feel than San Sebastián, but since you're traveling in May, you'll have far fewer SS tourist crowds. Bilbao is a fantastic city and as mikelg says, very well positioned for great day trips in any direction.
We've never rented in Bilbao, just have had hotel stays, so I can't help with short term rentals.
When we rent in the Vizcaya province, we do so at a casa rural/agroturism near the beach in Plentzia, just north of Bilbo or in the UNESCO Urdaibai Nature Reserve, east of the city, but that would give you a rural base with the disadvantages mentioned above and a 30-minute drive into Bilbao plus parking fees. And for your first trip, you would probably prefer one city base. *If it were my first trip, I would want a city base on the Spanish side.
Just a few thoughts...
Just a few thoughts about your questions:
"1) What are "must see and do" in the town of SS itself, in addition to pinxtos and food?"
In addition to those listed above, you might really enjoy a bus ride out to the newly reopened Chillida Leku open air sculpture museum and the original Basque farmhouse. The large park is filled with his monumental sculptures and the farmhouse has a collection of etchings and lithographs. It makes for a great morning or afternoon excursion. Eduardo Chillida is the late Basque sculptor, known for his monumental works of iron and steel, some of which you'll find in San Sebastián, particularly his famous "The Comb of the Wind" that mikelg mentions, at the end of Ondarreta beach.
The museum is open every day except Tuesdays and closes Wednesdays from November-February.
https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2...sculpture-park.
https://www.museochillidaleku.com/en/home-dev/.
"2) Would we miss out on the flavor and culture of SS if we stay on the outskirts of town (~10-15 min ride in)? Lodging is more affordable further out. Is the SS "center" a special place?"
Lodging will be more affordable in May in Hondarribia, for example, but you'll have a 30-minute drive from Hondarribia into SS center, and the cost of underground parking. We've done it both ways, staying in a very affordable "casa rural" with 3 bedrooms up in the hills of Hondarribia. The new Goiznabar agroturism sleeps 8, which would be an affordable option, with 4 bedrooms, 4 baths and price includes breakfast. Agroturismo Goiz Nabar | Hondarribia. You can see other options at https://www.nekatur.net/Default.aspx?lang=en-US.
But that said...when in Hondarribia we do miss the liveliness of strolling around SS in the evenings and walking along the La Concha promenade, just beautiful at night. For a first visit to the Basque Country, it might be preferable to have a small town base (such as St-Jean-de-Luz on the French side) and a city base (either San Sebastián or Bilbao). From St-Jean-de-Luz it's an easy 30-minute drive to the center of Hondarribia for a day trip.
"3) I'm assuming that we will manage fine in St Jean de Luz and Bayonne without speaking French. Is that a correct assumption?"
Yes, my French is very minimal and I manage every summer in both towns.
"Would Bilbao be a better home base than San Sebastián?"
For all of the reasons that mikelg mentions above, it might be, given your interests. And it certainly has a far less touristy feel than San Sebastián, but since you're traveling in May, you'll have far fewer SS tourist crowds. Bilbao is a fantastic city and as mikelg says, very well positioned for great day trips in any direction.
We've never rented in Bilbao, just have had hotel stays, so I can't help with short term rentals.
When we rent in the Vizcaya province, we do so at a casa rural/agroturism near the beach in Plentzia, just north of Bilbo or in the UNESCO Urdaibai Nature Reserve, east of the city, but that would give you a rural base with the disadvantages mentioned above and a 30-minute drive into Bilbao plus parking fees. And for your first trip, you would probably prefer one city base. *If it were my first trip, I would want a city base on the Spanish side.
Just a few thoughts...
Jan 1st, 2020, 03:08 PM
#56
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Maribel, mikelg, and kja,
Thank you all for the detailed responses to my questions.
More research and more thoughts.......here is the current plan:
Currently we are planning to fly into Bilbao in the morning, rent a car there, possibly explore the Guggenheim before driving in the afternoon directly to St Jean de Luz, which will be home base for 3 days. Day 1 we will drive to the countryside and see my ancestral towns of St. Etienne de Baigorry (and Urepel) and St. Jean Pied du Port. Second day we will go to Bayonne. Third, visit the French coast before heading to SS in the afternoon.
We will then make SS home base for ~4 days, with tours and day trips. I am debating whether we will split that time between SS and Bilbao.
I would appreciate your additional thoughts: What escorted tours would be beneficial vs see on our own.
We are looking forward to some autonomy and flexibility by hiring the rental car exploring the area on our own, especially the French Basque countryside and coast; and possibly making a drive to Satandar.
AND, I also want to hire local guides give us the "local insider" perspective. However, all the tours I see are full-day 6-10 hours where they drive and take care of everything. Hence, hiring a tour company adds significant expense for 3-4 days. I do see the merit of a fully escorted tour of the Rioja wine region so we can drink and not have to drive. Plus we definitely want a guide for pinxtos and gastronomy experience when we first arrive in either St. Jean de Luz or San Sebastian.
Question:
Which "tours" and sights do you think would be especially beneficial to hire local guides, vs. can do on our own? Because the tours seem to be full day (and will be expensive if we do more than 3), I want to balance "self-touring" on our with using a private tour company.
These are the experiences that are most important to us:
Basque culture and "real life" community
French countryside to see ancestral home (1 day)
Bayonne, Basque museum
Food and gastronomy in general
Terrain
History
I certainly appreciate your ideas and comments. You have been so helpful.
Thank you all for the detailed responses to my questions.
More research and more thoughts.......here is the current plan:
Currently we are planning to fly into Bilbao in the morning, rent a car there, possibly explore the Guggenheim before driving in the afternoon directly to St Jean de Luz, which will be home base for 3 days. Day 1 we will drive to the countryside and see my ancestral towns of St. Etienne de Baigorry (and Urepel) and St. Jean Pied du Port. Second day we will go to Bayonne. Third, visit the French coast before heading to SS in the afternoon.
We will then make SS home base for ~4 days, with tours and day trips. I am debating whether we will split that time between SS and Bilbao.
I would appreciate your additional thoughts: What escorted tours would be beneficial vs see on our own.
We are looking forward to some autonomy and flexibility by hiring the rental car exploring the area on our own, especially the French Basque countryside and coast; and possibly making a drive to Satandar.
AND, I also want to hire local guides give us the "local insider" perspective. However, all the tours I see are full-day 6-10 hours where they drive and take care of everything. Hence, hiring a tour company adds significant expense for 3-4 days. I do see the merit of a fully escorted tour of the Rioja wine region so we can drink and not have to drive. Plus we definitely want a guide for pinxtos and gastronomy experience when we first arrive in either St. Jean de Luz or San Sebastian.
Question:
Which "tours" and sights do you think would be especially beneficial to hire local guides, vs. can do on our own? Because the tours seem to be full day (and will be expensive if we do more than 3), I want to balance "self-touring" on our with using a private tour company.
These are the experiences that are most important to us:
Basque culture and "real life" community
French countryside to see ancestral home (1 day)
Bayonne, Basque museum
Food and gastronomy in general
Terrain
History
I certainly appreciate your ideas and comments. You have been so helpful.
Last edited by papier1; Jan 1st, 2020 at 03:13 PM.
Jan 1st, 2020, 03:21 PM
#57
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Apart from visiting the wine regions of Rioja, I see absolutely no need for a guided tour of anywhere else you would be going. I would feel positively silly walking around St-Jean-de-Luz with a guide, as it's so small and compact and totally understandable. Same for San Sebastián. A few glances at a guidebook and you should know where to head to eat, and you certainly don't need someone to pick out pintxos for you. A simple map from the tourist office of the main streets and you're good to go. Same with Bayonne. You really, really don't need tour guides!
So, you're going north to Bayonne from Bilbao and then back south to San Sebastián? Maybe I don't understand your itinerary inland, but this seems odd to me.
So, you're going north to Bayonne from Bilbao and then back south to San Sebastián? Maybe I don't understand your itinerary inland, but this seems odd to me.
Jan 1st, 2020, 04:58 PM
#58
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I took a pintxos tour in San Sebastian that I truly enjoyed -- but then, I was traveling solo, and didn't think I'd enjoy a pintxos crawl by myself. I don't think you need a tour unless you want one.
https://www.mimofood.com/en/experien...ng-tour-dinner
https://www.mimofood.com/en/experien...ng-tour-dinner
Jan 1st, 2020, 05:07 PM
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papier1,
Since you specifically asked about recommended Basque guides:
Upthread I mentioned using our own Fodorite mikelg as a local guide, either for a day tour of his beloved Vizcaya province or to the Rioja wine region, which he knows so well. But the tour to the Rioja is best done from Bilbao, as from SS it makes for a very long day. Mikel has been our personal tour guide and (full disclosure) friend and invaluable resource for all things having to do with Basque culture for many years. https://www.toursbybasques.com.
Guided tours, yes, are expensive, all over Spain and not just the Basque Country; they're a luxury item.
You can easily visit Saint-Etienne-de-Baïgorry and Urepel on your own. *If it's Monday, you might want to combine it with a visit to the terrific outdoor market in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. It's Irouleguy wine country as well. And in Saint-Etienne-de-Baïgorry don't miss Laia chocolates and the wine cooperative at the edge of town, plus the lovely church with its acclaimed pipe organ.
Ditto to Bayonne: visit the cathedral and its cloisters (Saturday evening concerts at 7:30 pm, great organ), the excellent Musée Basque ethnographic museum where the most important paintings of the temporarily closed Bonnet Museum are now housed (plan on 2 hours), stroll along the quais along the river Nice to admire the ancient houses, stroll the streets of Petit Bayonne, maybe visit a ham producer's atelier there like Pierre Ibaialde, visit the indoor market, enjoy some hot chocolate at Cazenave under the eaves on Rue Port Neuf.
There really isn't a pintxos culture at all in St-Jean-de-Luz.
The places there we enjoy: the gourmet Zoko Moko for their well-priced weekday lunch, cute Kako Etxea next to the market, Pil Pil Enea for excellent hake (merlu) and quite reasonable prices, la Boëte for shellfish (mussels, a fruit de mer platter) and le Comptoir des Amis. La Buvette in the market itself for very simple small plates. I do hope that your stay in St-Jean-de-Luz coincides with the Tuesday or Friday outdoor market. It's one of the best. *In Ciboure, across the water, at Socoa beach, there's the newish Alaïa, if you catch a beautiful, sunny day.
And in neighboring Guéthary, le Madrid in the center of town and the casual bistro of the Michelin-starred Hotel-Restaurant Briketenia.
Yes, you can easily do a pintxos crawl on your own in San Sebastián but I would highly suggest that you extend your pintxos hopping to the Gros quarter and to downtown rather than sticking solely to the Old Quarter, where some bars have declined sharply in quality over the last few years, a few turning into "pintxos mills" for tourists and overcharging them.
The ones in the Old Quarter we still trust and have received the top awards from the Instituto del Pintxo, an organization recently established by the city government to guard over and maintain the quality of the city's pintxos culture: Casa Urola, La Cuchara de San Telmo, Ganbara, Tamboril, Borda Berri. Bars downtown: Zazpi, Iturrioz, the brand new Narru and Antonio. Bars in the Gros Quarter: Bar Bergara, Bodega Donostiarra and Hidalgo 56.
But if you do decide that you prefer a food guide for SS, I'll be glad to offer a very trusted recommendation.
Since you specifically asked about recommended Basque guides:
Upthread I mentioned using our own Fodorite mikelg as a local guide, either for a day tour of his beloved Vizcaya province or to the Rioja wine region, which he knows so well. But the tour to the Rioja is best done from Bilbao, as from SS it makes for a very long day. Mikel has been our personal tour guide and (full disclosure) friend and invaluable resource for all things having to do with Basque culture for many years. https://www.toursbybasques.com.
Guided tours, yes, are expensive, all over Spain and not just the Basque Country; they're a luxury item.
You can easily visit Saint-Etienne-de-Baïgorry and Urepel on your own. *If it's Monday, you might want to combine it with a visit to the terrific outdoor market in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. It's Irouleguy wine country as well. And in Saint-Etienne-de-Baïgorry don't miss Laia chocolates and the wine cooperative at the edge of town, plus the lovely church with its acclaimed pipe organ.
Ditto to Bayonne: visit the cathedral and its cloisters (Saturday evening concerts at 7:30 pm, great organ), the excellent Musée Basque ethnographic museum where the most important paintings of the temporarily closed Bonnet Museum are now housed (plan on 2 hours), stroll along the quais along the river Nice to admire the ancient houses, stroll the streets of Petit Bayonne, maybe visit a ham producer's atelier there like Pierre Ibaialde, visit the indoor market, enjoy some hot chocolate at Cazenave under the eaves on Rue Port Neuf.
There really isn't a pintxos culture at all in St-Jean-de-Luz.
The places there we enjoy: the gourmet Zoko Moko for their well-priced weekday lunch, cute Kako Etxea next to the market, Pil Pil Enea for excellent hake (merlu) and quite reasonable prices, la Boëte for shellfish (mussels, a fruit de mer platter) and le Comptoir des Amis. La Buvette in the market itself for very simple small plates. I do hope that your stay in St-Jean-de-Luz coincides with the Tuesday or Friday outdoor market. It's one of the best. *In Ciboure, across the water, at Socoa beach, there's the newish Alaïa, if you catch a beautiful, sunny day.
And in neighboring Guéthary, le Madrid in the center of town and the casual bistro of the Michelin-starred Hotel-Restaurant Briketenia.
Yes, you can easily do a pintxos crawl on your own in San Sebastián but I would highly suggest that you extend your pintxos hopping to the Gros quarter and to downtown rather than sticking solely to the Old Quarter, where some bars have declined sharply in quality over the last few years, a few turning into "pintxos mills" for tourists and overcharging them.
The ones in the Old Quarter we still trust and have received the top awards from the Instituto del Pintxo, an organization recently established by the city government to guard over and maintain the quality of the city's pintxos culture: Casa Urola, La Cuchara de San Telmo, Ganbara, Tamboril, Borda Berri. Bars downtown: Zazpi, Iturrioz, the brand new Narru and Antonio. Bars in the Gros Quarter: Bar Bergara, Bodega Donostiarra and Hidalgo 56.
But if you do decide that you prefer a food guide for SS, I'll be glad to offer a very trusted recommendation.
Jan 1st, 2020, 11:48 PM
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All,
Thanks again for the informative comments.
Maribel, thank you for directing me to Mikel's site -- I had overlooked that and will contact him. I greatly appreciate your additional recommendations. Please do share your recommendation for a food guide for SS.
kja and Stcir, we definitely want to have a guide for pinxtos tour and possibly other parts of our travel, for a few reasons. First, we have among our four travelers some dietary restrictions to consider; we'd like to optimize our foodie enjoyment without surprises or disappointments and a guide familiar with the various pinxtos offerings can steer up in the right direction. Second, while I know we will be fine driving, walking, shopping, sightseeing, and eating on our own, I also believe our travels will be enriched by having a local guide (more of a traveling companion really) who can provide the context of "real Basque life." Finally, although we have to stay within our budget, I do want our travel dollars to support the Basque economy, which includes service and tour providers.
My intention is to balance guided tours with our self-directed independent touring.
Right now I'm thinking the wine/cheese guided tours are good to consider using a guide, along with focused "food" and pinxtos guide (but not for 8 hours a day).
Thanks again for the informative comments.
Maribel, thank you for directing me to Mikel's site -- I had overlooked that and will contact him. I greatly appreciate your additional recommendations. Please do share your recommendation for a food guide for SS.
kja and Stcir, we definitely want to have a guide for pinxtos tour and possibly other parts of our travel, for a few reasons. First, we have among our four travelers some dietary restrictions to consider; we'd like to optimize our foodie enjoyment without surprises or disappointments and a guide familiar with the various pinxtos offerings can steer up in the right direction. Second, while I know we will be fine driving, walking, shopping, sightseeing, and eating on our own, I also believe our travels will be enriched by having a local guide (more of a traveling companion really) who can provide the context of "real Basque life." Finally, although we have to stay within our budget, I do want our travel dollars to support the Basque economy, which includes service and tour providers.
My intention is to balance guided tours with our self-directed independent touring.
Right now I'm thinking the wine/cheese guided tours are good to consider using a guide, along with focused "food" and pinxtos guide (but not for 8 hours a day).
