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wrenwood Jun 13th, 2010 03:28 PM

Walking and Hikes in the Engadine, suggestions?
We have decided that we will be in Switzerland in August. :) :) :)

We plan to stay at Waldhaus in Sils, and also to stay 2-3 nights in Soglio ( probably @ Palazzo Salis)

Thinking about staying a night or two in Fex Valley ~ anyone stayed there that has a recommendation as to which place to stay?

We will have a car. No problem traveling to different areas.

Muottas Murgl is a possibility, will definitely hike around Soglio ~ Sentiero Panoramico and?????

I think there are good hikes/walks in the Fex Valley?

We don't mind walks/hikes that take up most of the day, but prefer to not have to hike up steep inclines (isn't that why cable cars were invented?)

Ingo has mentioned taking the funicular from St. Moritz Dorf to Corviglia, then the cable car up to Piz Nair

Ingo, others, tell me more about getting to Lake Saoseo?

We only have one jar of Crema de Castagnea left from our last vist to Soglio. For my birthday when I was feeling very abused and exhausted because I work 6-7 long days a week from March - July, I created a special dessert to pretend I was in Switzerland. I cut out "cookies" of piecrust, spread them with cream cheese ( sorry no marscapone) and Crema de Castagnea , and grated Lindt dark chocolate overtop. I could see the Chestnut trees below Soglio, the view from the church, the Sequoias behind Palazzo Salis................ serenity :)

Ingo Jun 14th, 2010 11:11 AM

Lucky you! ;-)

If you plan to stay at the Waldhaus in Sils it makes no sense IMO to stay a night or two in the Fex Valley - the Waldhaus is right at the begin of the Fex Valley. The only place that comes to my mind where it would make some sort of sense is Hotel Fex because it is far in valley, totally isolated location. If, then get a room to the south with balcony to enjoy the view of the mountains and glaciers.

My favourite hike in the Fex Valley is to go up by cable car to Furtschellas, hike from there via Marmore to Hotel Fex, walk back to Sils or take the horse-drawn carriage.

Another, more strenuous hike is to take the upper trail from Furtschellas toward Hotel Fex (you'll pass an Alp where they sell milk and cheese). Or take the uppermost trail that leads to Piz Grialetsch and lake Sgrischus, then down to Hotel Fex. This will take up the entire day.

A less known trail is at the other side of the Fex Valley, ascending the mountain crest behind Pension Fex (Fex Crasta) and following the top of the crest a while. Excellent views. No cable car there, you'd have to hike UP ;-) When I did this I only met two people and one dog during the four-hour hike. Enjoyed it tremenduously.

Around Soglio ... well, I am torn on the hikes there. Since the valley is so deep and the slopes are so steep you have huge elevation differences on each hike that doesn't run along the valley/slopes. If you're in good shape do the Sentiero Panoramico from Casaccia all the way to Soglio. Another, shorter hike is from Soglio down to Castasegna and back via Bondo and Promontogno. You could also take the cable car from Pranzaira up to Albigna dam/lake and hike to the mountain hut from there. Half day.

I highly recommend the hike from Maloja to Lake Cavloc. Very beautiful, blooming flowers around the lake, restaurant with terrace ...

You should do Piz Nair only if you have a day/afternoon left and don't know what else to do ... it's not *that* exciting IMO.

To get to Lake Saoseo you drive over the Bernina Pass, park your car at the hotel/restaurant Sfazu and hop on the small bus that takes up into Val da Camp, to the mountain hut Saoseo (the stop is called 'Lungacqua'). From there it's just a half hour or a bit more to hike to the lake, so you can even extend the hike to the other lakes beyond lake Saoseo.

Check the schedule for the small bus, you MUST make a reservation in advance. It leaves Sfazu at 9.35 and 10.35 am, back from Lungacqua 3.22 and 4.22 pm. Tel.: 081 844 10 42 or 079 599 96 76 (your hotel will do that for you).

As for the Crema di Castagna, you can buy them also in Maloja in the dairy shop. That's what I did last time when I stayed in Sils. Sounds delicious ...


wrenwood Jun 14th, 2010 03:20 PM

Thanks Ingo!

We will be with my husband's family in Indiana for 10 days beginning the 23rd. I will then have more time to look at your suggestions and research. I have the book on Hiking in the Engadine, but sometimes it is easier to research via Fodors!

The pictures you sent me of the Lakes have been saved just for a trip like this!

I hope you are travelling fun places this year?

Ingo Jun 15th, 2010 10:30 AM

Nothing planned yet. I'll see and decide on the last minute. But I'll definitely go to some exciting/fun place ;-)

Have fun with the family.


wrenwood Jun 18th, 2010 01:40 AM

What about the areas around Val Mustair, and the Swiss National Park?

Ingo Jun 18th, 2010 09:05 AM

Don't get me started on them also ;-)

But you asked for it ... first one hike above Zuoz: from the town up to Hotel Castell (where I stayed some years ago), on to the mountain hut Chamanna d'Es-cha (lunch), towards the Albula pass, but once you get to the Gualdauna saddle (from where you see the Albula pass road) you take the direction back to Zuoz (or Madulain). About five hours. Great views, little frequented.

The longer hikes in the National Park are quite strenuous. No cable cars, of course, huge elevation differences. I was a bit disappointed with the scenery there. No glaciers. The shorter, easily accessible trails are quite crowded. I find the hikes closer to the Bernina massif to be more spectacular when it comes to views and less strenuous (if you use cable cars).

Also, don't underestimate the time you need to get from the Upper Engadine to the National Park (Ofen pass) and Müstair Valley and back - quite a long trip with changes (St. Moritz or Samedan e.g. and then in Zernez to the bus).

Worth your time are the hike from Ofen Pass (Buffalora) to Munt la Schera and the hike from Ofen Pass along the northern valley slopes via Lü to Müstair (long). Or the hike from Ofen pass to S-charl, but that's for staying in the Lower Engadine (bus to Scuol).


Ingo Jun 18th, 2010 09:24 AM

Ok, just saw you'll have a car. Then a day trip to the Müstair Valley is a good idea. Start early, park the car at Ofen pass, hike via Lü to Müstair. 2 hours to Lü (via Alp da Munt and Alp Champatsch), from Lü to Müstair via upper route (Alp Terza) 4 hours, via lower route (Valpaschun, Pütschai) 3 hours. If you have enough power after the hike you should definitely have a look at the monastery in Müstair - UNESCO world heritag site. Bus back to Ofen Pass.

wrenwood Jun 21st, 2010 03:23 AM

Thanks Ingo!

Bought our tickets this weekend, it's a go!

wrenwood Jun 21st, 2010 11:20 AM

Instead of a day trip to Müstair Valley is there someplace wonderful to stay in the area? After all that hiking I won't want to drive back, I will want a cold beverage :)

Ingo Jun 21st, 2010 10:08 PM

Of course there are some very nice hotels in the Müstair Valley. Don't have the time right now, but will get back to this thread as soon as I can.


wrenwood Jun 22nd, 2010 02:53 AM

Thanks Ingo, looking forward to it.

I found Schlosshotel Restaurant Chaste in Tarasp. Still an hour I guess from Mustair, website looked nice, satellite on Google earth looked interesting. Website mentions walking trails. Never been to that area.

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