| Joe |
Apr 29th, 2002 08:59 AM |
Pecs was one of our more delightful surprises in Hungary. Yes, it is the third largest city, but, it has the feel of a village, particularly in the old sction around Szechenyi Ter, the central square. The square is on an incline with lawn in the center and is very active night and day. Pecs is second only to Budapest as a center for the arts. Museums and galleries abound. It is the home of the Zsolnay Ceramics Factory; beautiful porclain. The Pecs Cathedral dates back to the 11th century and has recently gone through a complete refurbishment. The Mosque of Pasha, now a Catholic Church, is a holdover from the Turkish occupation. Ask the attendent to turn on the lights (costs about a quarter American) for the best effect. The Pecs Synagogue is beautiful with its original oak interior. The walls and ceiling are painted with geometrical designs. Read the sad tale of Pecs Jews told by the pictures on the wall. <BR>The modern city is equally charming with tree lined streets and many parks. Take in the Peccsi Vasar, the Pecs flea market where antique china is side by side with homemade preserves. It is open every day, but Sunday is the best. Shop at the "pedestrian only" streets like Ferencesek utca. Most of the artifacts are handmade.<BR>Outdoor cafes and restaurants are everywhere.<BR>We stayed at the Hotel Palatinus, a three star right in the cenetr of the old section. We had a top floor room with marvelous views over the city. If you don't stay here, visit the lobby anyway to take in the old marble staircase and walls. The Mecsek Tourist or Tourist Office right on the central square will help you find a room meeting your requirements. There are restaurants all around the square and the food is generally good (don't seem to have succumbed to "take the tourist" yet. One of our best dinners was at Bagolyvar Etterem up in the hills of Pecs. The views are marvellous. The food, service and wine list are excellent. The Dom Vendeglo down in the old section is run bt the same people and is also very good. By the way, the wine Egri Bikaver is good again since the Communists are no longer running the wineries. The wines of Tokaj (not just dessert) are excelent.<BR>Pecs is a very charming, vibrant city. We loved it.
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