Vezelay hotels: in search of something charming?
 

We fly into Geneva at the end of September and and spend 7 days/6 nights in Burgundy, the one part of France that we've missed on previous trips. We have one night in/around Vezelay, and I've (reluctantly) come to the decision that it makes sense for us to stay in the quiet town of Vezelay itself. We have a longish drive (with stops in Flavigny sur Ozerain and Fontenay Abbey en route) so don't expect to make it to Vezelay until 3:00-4:00 pm.

I had just about decided to stay at Moulin des Ruats, just outside Avallon. But if we stay there, it's a 18-20 minute drive after leaving Vezelay...and we'll be looking at our watches all the time we're in Vezelay, trying to judge if we need to move on to the hotel for check-in. Plus, if we want to return early the next day for morning light photographs of the basilica, it's another 18 minute drive each way -- and we need to get to Dijon by noon that day. [A bit hectic, yes, but after that we spend a relaxing 4 days based in Beaune.]

I think that we'll have more flexibility IF we stay in Vezelay itself -- so I'm looking for hotel or B&B recommendations from helpful Fodorites. I don't find much enthusiasm for Vezelay properties -- there often seem to be noise complaints for those near the lower square. I'm not looking to break the bank (as in L'Esperance) but I don't need true budget properties either -- extra points for something with charm? Does anyone know Les Glycines or Cabalus, both closer to the Basilica? Other suggestions welcome!

Haven;t stayed but did peek in the door and it looked quite nice

http://www.lecompostellevezelay.com/acces.html

Before I read your whole post, I was going to recommend http://www.hotel-moulin-des-templiers.com/page1_a.htm which is one of our favorite places anywhere. Charming setting. Lovely owners. Excellent food. I believe a bit more downscale than the Ruats. If you decide to change your mind about the distance (I really don't see it as a problem), you might want to consider it. It's about three minutes closer to Vezelay, if that helps!

I would stay with the Moulin des Ruats. Granted it's a few minutes drive away - but IMHO the excellence of the dinner and beauty of the location more than make up for a few minutes drive. And i f you pay in advance there is no rush to check in at a certain time.

Thanks, Avalon - I re-checked TA reviews for Compostelle and fortunately there's no mention of noise problems! I'm still curious about Glycines and Cabalus; the latter's one review (specialty lodging) was great, but it looks like only way to reserve may be by phone and my French is VERY basic.

Cimbrone: thanks for the templiers vote; it looks lovely. I still think I'll be less stressed if I can just park the car, wander the town in the late afternoon, decide whether to visit the Basilica then, have nice dinner, get up early to (re)visit the Basilica, have breakfast, and set off for Dijon via Valle d'Cousin. We'll be staying in a small hotel/country inn near Beaune after that, so an in-town location might be a nice contrast?

Ah, NYtraveler, sort of my original thoughts -- just when I think I've convinced myself of one course of action (Vezelay town).... Guess it depends on whether additional time in the town (described as "magical") outweighs the dinner! We won't have enough hotel time to take full advantage of the location?

Well it depends on how much of a foodie you are. When we were there at least half of the diners had made the trip out from Paris just to have dinner there. The the hotel is directly on the stream that separates it from the national park. We saw an ermine running along the opposite side fo the stream while we were eating dinner.

Also, don;t know if anyone has mentioned that the Basilica is on the top of a very steep hill - the whole town is on the side of the hill - so it's not a quick 5 minute stroll to get back there.