Verona & the Lakes area of Italy
May 27th, 2005, 07:14 PM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Verona & the Lakes area of Italy
We rented a car at the Verona airport & drove to our hotel which was the Columba d'Oro in Verona. It was fine, but we got lost trying to find it. One wrong turn & what a mess. There are quite a few one way streets. The location is very convenient to the Arena & other sights, not to mention the main shopping area. We had dinner at La Greppia, which was so-so. The rolls tasted like they were day old bread. It was a fairly large room (for an Italian restaurant) and seemed like a place where groups of people would eat. Consequently it was very noisy. Not much atmosphere. Wouldn't go there again.
The next day we headed to Bassano del Grappa. Along the way we stopped in Marostica which was a very small town. Ok, but I don't think worth the stop. Bassano del Grappa was larger than I thought it would be. The best stop was in Asolo. A very small town where we had the best meal of the trip in a place called Hosteria CA' Derton. Because we got lost a number of times going back to Verona (b/4 we got on the autostrata), our daytrip turned out to be ALL day. I would not drive from Verona to see these places. However, if I were in Germany or someplace closer than Verona I guess I would probably go see them. Since a number of people on Fodors rec. them, I'd go more out of curiosity - time permitting.
The next day we drove to Lake Garda. It was an easy drive up the eastern side of the lake. Much more time consuming to drive the mountainous west side. We left Verona about 8:30a.m., so we did not hit much traffic on the drive up the lake. Malcesine is a tourist stop with shops & restaurants. Pleasant place to stop for a break. Riva del Garda is fairly big (relatively speaking) and quite busy. Torri del Benaco was much quieter, but I don't know if that is b/c it was lunch time & everything was closed or if it just doesn't get the tourists that some of the other places along the lake get.
By the afternoon, and the ride back down the lake, traffic had picked up considerably! I bet it is VERY slow going in the summer!
We continued on to Lake Como.
To be continued.
The next day we headed to Bassano del Grappa. Along the way we stopped in Marostica which was a very small town. Ok, but I don't think worth the stop. Bassano del Grappa was larger than I thought it would be. The best stop was in Asolo. A very small town where we had the best meal of the trip in a place called Hosteria CA' Derton. Because we got lost a number of times going back to Verona (b/4 we got on the autostrata), our daytrip turned out to be ALL day. I would not drive from Verona to see these places. However, if I were in Germany or someplace closer than Verona I guess I would probably go see them. Since a number of people on Fodors rec. them, I'd go more out of curiosity - time permitting.
The next day we drove to Lake Garda. It was an easy drive up the eastern side of the lake. Much more time consuming to drive the mountainous west side. We left Verona about 8:30a.m., so we did not hit much traffic on the drive up the lake. Malcesine is a tourist stop with shops & restaurants. Pleasant place to stop for a break. Riva del Garda is fairly big (relatively speaking) and quite busy. Torri del Benaco was much quieter, but I don't know if that is b/c it was lunch time & everything was closed or if it just doesn't get the tourists that some of the other places along the lake get.
By the afternoon, and the ride back down the lake, traffic had picked up considerably! I bet it is VERY slow going in the summer!
We continued on to Lake Como.
To be continued.
May 27th, 2005, 07:50 PM
#2
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
About 5 years ago my wife and I drove by rented car from Venice to Asolo, Marostica, Padua, along the Brenta river (saw Paladio mansions from which the southern plantation mansions get their origin); and stayed at some little charming tourisimo b & b and then back to lovely Venice. I thought driving was a little hectic on the Veneto plain also. I think the Veneto plain is very urbanized, populated and roads everywhere.
Other than the Brenta River mansions, my wife and I thought Asolo was very charming and tucked away. I believe the Queen of England (Elizabeth) has frequented the little town. We thought Marostica was intereting with its Chess board like city square.
However, we were ready to return to Venice and get lost in the little alley ways and ride only boats (vaporettos & gondolos) to and fro.
We also drove east from Venice to Grado and Aquilea near the coast, which was an ancient Roman Empire seaport and had a 4th century church that was on the pilgrim journey to Rome and the Holy Lands. I found that beautiful part of Italy charming and "tucked away" from the normal touristica traffic.
But of course we had Venice as our hub of activities. As you can tell "we" love Venice.
We have been to the Lake area, via train from Milan, and used the ferry's to go from one side of the lake(s) to the other. My wife and I thought the Lake areas very beautiful, interesting and relaxing.
Bottom line.........I only like to drive in the "country side" of Italy such as Tuscany, Assisi, Orvieto, Brenta River and etc where the traffic and population is low and the road directions are simple.
Ciao
Other than the Brenta River mansions, my wife and I thought Asolo was very charming and tucked away. I believe the Queen of England (Elizabeth) has frequented the little town. We thought Marostica was intereting with its Chess board like city square.
However, we were ready to return to Venice and get lost in the little alley ways and ride only boats (vaporettos & gondolos) to and fro.
We also drove east from Venice to Grado and Aquilea near the coast, which was an ancient Roman Empire seaport and had a 4th century church that was on the pilgrim journey to Rome and the Holy Lands. I found that beautiful part of Italy charming and "tucked away" from the normal touristica traffic.
But of course we had Venice as our hub of activities. As you can tell "we" love Venice.
We have been to the Lake area, via train from Milan, and used the ferry's to go from one side of the lake(s) to the other. My wife and I thought the Lake areas very beautiful, interesting and relaxing.
Bottom line.........I only like to drive in the "country side" of Italy such as Tuscany, Assisi, Orvieto, Brenta River and etc where the traffic and population is low and the road directions are simple.
Ciao
May 27th, 2005, 07:50 PM
#3
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We arrived in Bellagio about 5:30p.m. Our room at the Hotel Belvedere was good size and had a large bathroom. We had a ground floor unit that had a couple of chairs, table & a chaise lounge on the grass outside our bedroom door. Beautiful view. It took about 5+ mins. to walk to the ferry dock which was more in the "town" part of Bellagio. Although we didn't mind the walk, I think if I were staying there more than a few days I MIGHT get tired of the walk if I were taking the ferries all the time. There are nice walks around that are convenient to the hotel. The other 2 hotels mentioned on this forum a lot are the Florence and the Du Lac (or something like that). They are both right across the road from the ferry dock, but I don't know what the rooms are like. From the outside they just seemed a little "tired" looking. Once again, though, I didn't see the rooms.
Had 2 great meals at Bilacus.
We enjoyed Menaccio, Ravenna, & Tremezzo. However, I'm glad we stayed in Bellagio. All of those towns are quite small, as is Bellagio.
Next it was onto Lake Maggiore, via the northern route, where we stayed at Las Palmas in Stresa. The room was very nice and it had a balcony w/ a table & chairs. Nice view. The Regina Hotel catches everyone's eye b/c of its architecture. It looks like a castle. We went inside and it was quite formal with gold, French provincial (I think) furniture. Quite elegant looking. There are about 5 big hotels all in a row across from the lake, one right after the other. Grand Hotel des Iles Borromees was the furthest away & would be a jaunt from "town" if it is raining. I think that hotel is supposed to be a 5*, but Las Palmas 4* was more than just fine.
Ate dinner 2 nights at Lo Stornello.
Went to Lake Orta which we enjoyed very much. Loved the little town. Hadn't seen many "cute" ones on this trip.
We left Stresa fairly early and headed to the First Hotel Malpensa close to the airport. Very ordinary, contempory, cold feeling hotel, but was fine for 1 night. Very small room. Breakfast was NOTHING to write home about.We checked in about 11am and then returned our car to Hertz. We then took the train (E18/RT each) into Milan for the day. The Duomo is covered in the front, but there is still plenty of it to see. The museums were closed as it was Monday. Didn't therefore see The Last Supper. We thought Milan was somewhat dirty and not very nice.
Flew back home on Swiss - GREAT airline.
Had 2 great meals at Bilacus.
We enjoyed Menaccio, Ravenna, & Tremezzo. However, I'm glad we stayed in Bellagio. All of those towns are quite small, as is Bellagio.
Next it was onto Lake Maggiore, via the northern route, where we stayed at Las Palmas in Stresa. The room was very nice and it had a balcony w/ a table & chairs. Nice view. The Regina Hotel catches everyone's eye b/c of its architecture. It looks like a castle. We went inside and it was quite formal with gold, French provincial (I think) furniture. Quite elegant looking. There are about 5 big hotels all in a row across from the lake, one right after the other. Grand Hotel des Iles Borromees was the furthest away & would be a jaunt from "town" if it is raining. I think that hotel is supposed to be a 5*, but Las Palmas 4* was more than just fine.
Ate dinner 2 nights at Lo Stornello.
Went to Lake Orta which we enjoyed very much. Loved the little town. Hadn't seen many "cute" ones on this trip.
We left Stresa fairly early and headed to the First Hotel Malpensa close to the airport. Very ordinary, contempory, cold feeling hotel, but was fine for 1 night. Very small room. Breakfast was NOTHING to write home about.We checked in about 11am and then returned our car to Hertz. We then took the train (E18/RT each) into Milan for the day. The Duomo is covered in the front, but there is still plenty of it to see. The museums were closed as it was Monday. Didn't therefore see The Last Supper. We thought Milan was somewhat dirty and not very nice.
Flew back home on Swiss - GREAT airline.
May 28th, 2005, 02:11 PM
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In rereading my report, I can see what you mean LoveItaly. To be honest, we did enjoy our trip, but I think as has happened b/4, I must build places up too much in my mind after reading others' trip reports regarding places we plan to visit. Also, we did a lot of driving and we find Italy's road signage terrible - very frustrating. In so many places (we've driven in Sicily, Tuscany, & Umbria in Italy) we get lost b/c of the lack of signs or if there is a sign once you are off the autostrata, you might come to a fork in the road & then there is no indication which way you should go. I wouldn't bother mentioning this topic, but many people we have met on our travels in Italy have said the same thing - not all Americans. I thought it might just be us even though my husband usually has a great sense of direction & mine isn't bad. Oh, well...
May 28th, 2005, 02:28 PM
#6
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 45,322
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi ehc, I am glad you enjoyed your trip. I was feeling bad but I am glad that I got the wrong impression.
Driving in Italy can be frustrating. Fortunatly my late DH loved driving in Italy (even in Milan, Rome and Naples). But I think it is because he always drove as aggresively as the Italians do (his Italian genes maybe?). At first I would be scared witless but after awhile I got use to it. And my friends in Italy - the way they drive - you do not want to know.
The reason I do not go in the winter time when it is so much cheaper (airfare etc.) is the fog in Veneto. It is horrifying. The accidents that occur on the auostrada between Milan and Venice are horrific. Plus of course the delays with flights.
BTW, is the Columba d'Oro Hotel still nice? When we stayed there we got lost trying to reach it also. I smiled when I read your post.
And I am probably the only person in the world that is not enthralled with Asolo. But there were several reasons for that which I will not go into except to say that it rained the whole week and the roads were like rivers. It was terrible. I always think of Asolo as dark and gloomy and miserable. But I am sure if I went back during pleasant weather I would have a different opinion. But then again I have stayed in other towns that had similar weather and love them, so maybe there is something about Asolo and I that just don't click. Take care.
Driving in Italy can be frustrating. Fortunatly my late DH loved driving in Italy (even in Milan, Rome and Naples). But I think it is because he always drove as aggresively as the Italians do (his Italian genes maybe?). At first I would be scared witless but after awhile I got use to it. And my friends in Italy - the way they drive - you do not want to know.
The reason I do not go in the winter time when it is so much cheaper (airfare etc.) is the fog in Veneto. It is horrifying. The accidents that occur on the auostrada between Milan and Venice are horrific. Plus of course the delays with flights.
BTW, is the Columba d'Oro Hotel still nice? When we stayed there we got lost trying to reach it also. I smiled when I read your post.
And I am probably the only person in the world that is not enthralled with Asolo. But there were several reasons for that which I will not go into except to say that it rained the whole week and the roads were like rivers. It was terrible. I always think of Asolo as dark and gloomy and miserable. But I am sure if I went back during pleasant weather I would have a different opinion. But then again I have stayed in other towns that had similar weather and love them, so maybe there is something about Asolo and I that just don't click. Take care.
May 28th, 2005, 05:04 PM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We thought the C d' O Hotel was very nice, and in a convenient location (once we found it). The receptionists were very pleasant.
I think we liked Asolo b/c we had finally come upon a nice little village that was quiet & relaxing (lunch time). The place we ate lunch/diner was a real treat. We love the mountains (we live on the ocean) and Asolo is close to them. Also, it was one of the only places we did not get lost trying to find, which was a big help as far as attitude goes.
I think we liked Asolo b/c we had finally come upon a nice little village that was quiet & relaxing (lunch time). The place we ate lunch/diner was a real treat. We love the mountains (we live on the ocean) and Asolo is close to them. Also, it was one of the only places we did not get lost trying to find, which was a big help as far as attitude goes.
