monicapileggi

<b>31 May 2010, Venice Italy</b>

I arrived in Venice on an overcast day, but by 11:00am, the clouds broke up and the sun came out. My flight from Dulles International on USAirways from Philadelphia, landed about 30 minutes early despite our 1-hour late departure out of Philadelphia (lots of air traffic). I purchased the 7-day VeniceCard prior to leaving the USA, which supposedly allowed me to take the water boat to Venice. Not so, so I took the local bus to Venice and then the vaporetto to the Zattere stop (#2), which was close to my hotel.

My room at Pensione La Calcina is very small. You walk in and take 2 steps down to the area where the twin bed, night table, and desk is located. To the right from the entrance are 2 steps up to the bathroom. There is a nice small balcony with a table and chair and a view of a small side canal. While the room is very small, it is charming with it' high ceiling, hardwood floors, neutral wall paper and tile in the bathroom.

I met my friends Ann and Kirk along with Candice, who were in Venice for the day. We met for lunch at Alle Zattere, which is located just down from my hotel. Three of us enjoyed pizza (mine with proscuitto) and Kirk had a pasta dish. It was great meeting friends for lunch. The restaurant is right on the water, so we enjoyed the views of the Guidecca canal.

After lunch, the three went their way and I went out to explore the area. It was great to be back in Venice. The day was beautiful and there were many tourists all around.

I tried to get money from three different ATMs, but for some reason, I couldn’t get any money. I wanted to get euros while at the airport, but a note posted at the ATM stated “maximum 250 euros). Well, I didn’t want to do multiple transactions, so I decided to wait till I got to Venice. I later realized I was using my bankcard instead of my debit card. Both are blue cards.

Being tired from a long flight and no sleep, I rested in the room for a while before going out to dinner.

I went to a grocery store, Billa, a 5-7 minute walk from my hotel. I purchased an inexpensive bottle of red wine for just 3.99 euros (and it was quite good!) and a bottle of limoncello (3.59 euros).

I made my way to a vaporetto stop and headed to dinner. I met up with the three from earlier today at La Zucca. I had dined here two years ago. Delicious food (tagliatelle with pistachio nuts and a gorgonzola sauce; and baked eggplant – shared a liter of wine), and a fun evening. The place was packed, as it’s a popular place.

After a short walk around the area, I took the vaporetto back to the Academia stop and walked back to my hotel. Anne Kirk, and Candice took the train back to Verona.

<b>1 June, Tuesday</b>

My hotel serves breakfast out on the terrace in good weather. It was a beautiful day. I ate some yogurt, sliced ham and cheese, bread, fruit, and tea. As I ate my breakfast, I watched a long procession of fishing boats. The fishermen were protesting some new law where they cannot use their fishing nets and minimum size requirement for fishing shrimp, calamari, and other fish. As they moved down the canal, they blew their horns loud and long.

I stepped inside the Museo della Musica, where I saw many old violins and other string instruments. The music of Vivaldi was playing while I was inside. I decided to purchase a ticket for a concert on Friday at 9pm. I had the choice of two concerts, one being Le quattro stagioni, The Four Seasons. Since I went to a similar concert in Paris, I chose the second one. I believe it’s a variety concert (25 euros).

I made my way to Piazza San Marco and toured the Basilica. I had downloaded a Rick Steve’s audio tour, so it made for a nice visit inside. The ceilings of the Basilica are amazing with the gold mosaics. The Piazza was filled with tourists and pigeons.

I wandered around the back streets, took pictures, and then had lunch at Osteria da Alberto. It was my second time there. At the table next to me (all are close together) I asked the woman how she liked her pasta with clams. “Excellent”. I ordered the same dish and I agreed with her. We started to talk and she asked me where I was from. When I said Maryland, she asked where. Frederick. "Are you Monica?" Yes! "I'm Barb.” We had met via the slow talk web site (discussion board) and had made plans to meet for dinner with a few other travelers. It’s a small world. I couldn’t believe we were sitting next to each other.

After lunch, I went to the island of Burano. I spent 1.5 hours walking around the small streets. The houses in Burano are painted in different colors: Purple, blue, lavender, red, orange, etc. Many of the windowsills had potted plants and flowers. It’s such a colorful and charming place. Burano is known for lace making, although I believe most is produced in China.

It took 1.5 hours to get back to my hotel. I had to change to a different vaporetto at St. Mark’s. It’s great to have the 7-day transportation pass, where I can get on/off anytime I wanted to.

I met up with Barb, Jan, and Sandi for dinner at my hotel (their restaurant La Piscina) outside on the terrace. It was a pleasant evening. For dinner, I had the crostini misti and the pappardelle pasta with duck ragu. Everything was delicious and filling. While dining, we could hear the horns of the fishing boats. Towards the west, the fishing boats were docked and tied together.

After dinner, Barb joined me for some wine on my tiny terrace. We talk for an hour or so and had a good time. I walked with her to her apartment, which was located about 5 minutes from my hotel. It was a nice walk back.

<b>2 June, Wednesday</b>

I woke up to a beautiful day. I’m so glad for the sunny weather and not too hot days. After breakfast, I wanted to see fishing boats. A group of policemen were near the boats, I guess to keep things from heating up. Some of the boats honked their horns over night, but fortunately, it wasn’t loud for me.

Out for the day to just wander around and take lots of pictures, I headed the train station area. I went to a souvenir shop and chatted with the owner. Back in 2006 I had purchased a beaded necklace for my grandmother. At the time, she was 98 years old. The owner was thrilled that I was buying something for my grandmother. I took their photo outside their store. Today I gave them a copy (5x7) of the photo. He was very appreciative and gave me a key chain as a gift – a typical tacky souvenir chain, but I love it. His wife was home, so didn’t’ get the chance to say hello to her. We talked for a bit and even got on the subject of the oil spill. He was very sad for the local fishermen.

I walked to the train station and bought my tickets for a day trip to Ferrara for the next day. I have to get up early to catch the 8:27a.m. train. People were coming and going with their suitcases, some with huge suitcases! With all the bridges in Venice, it’s best to pack light.

Near the Rialto area, I had lunch ai Tre Spiedi. Lunch but very good but rich: Spinach stuffed tortellini with a cheese sauce and fresh spinach. I told the waiter I would return another night for dinner. Three handsome gondolier’s sat near me. I should have taken their picture.

For my last two nights in Venice, I booked a hotel in the Cannaregio area, so I walked by to make sure I could find it. It’s in a nice location, so I know I’ll enjoy it.

Since I was up so late last night (1:30am), I slowly headed back to the hotel to relax before dinner.

Barb arrived at my hotel at 6pm and we took the vaporetto to the San Toma stop. Dinner reservations were at 7:30pm so we found a place for drinks (Taverna da Baffo). It had been raining since about 4pm so we couldn't sit outside. With our drinks, the waiter gave us a mortadella and pepper on bread cicchetti. I ordered a ¼ liter of white wine and the waiter gave me extra, “Because I like you.”

We had dinner at Trattoria San Toma. The owner, Antiono, greeted us. I made reservations before I left for Venice. Dinner was very good but a little pricey. We both ordered the bruschetta for our appetizer. I had the lamb chops, Barb had the sea bass, which the waiter prepared table-side, and we shared a side dish of grilled vegetables. The restaurant was not crowded, but it was a holiday. For dessert, we both had a glass of sgroppino, a delicious and refreshing drink made with sorbet, limoncello, and prosecco. Here's a recipe I found. http://www.drinksmixer.com/drink1c5d696.html

After dinner we went to Barb's apartment for some limoncello and a nice evening together talking about traveling, family, and other things. I was back in my room shortly after 11pm.

<b>3 June, Thursday</b>

I got up at 6am so I could get the train station for my day trip to Ferrara. It had rained all night and I woke up to overcast skies and constant drizzle.

I got to the train station early so I walked around the area and had some tea at a café (Bar S. Lucia, Cannaregio 282/B). I was the only woman in the place – all the men were coming and going downing their espresso in seconds before heading to work.

The train left promptly at 8:27am and it took an hour to get to Ferrara. I walked almost a mile to the center of town. Ferrara is a beautiful city and reminded me of Parma (lots of people on bikes) and Bologna (with the arched porticos). The city is known for the Este family, who ruled from the early 1200’s to the late 1500’s, until the blood line ran out and the Papal States took over. After a long decline, Ferrara is once again a lively city.

My first stop was to the Castello Estense de Ferrara, a huge fortress from the early middle ages. It rained hard while I was inside and it stopped as I got to the top of the tower (about 130 steps). I enjoyed the views from above. Inside, several of the rooms had beautiful frescoes and paintings on the ceilings. The rooms had huge mirrors on the floor angled up so you didn’t have to stretch your neck up to view the ceilings. Down below, I visited the dungeons. The ceilings were very short and the two rooms I saw were tiny. The woman that led the way made a motion of of her hand across her neck - off with the head.

The cathedral just around the corner from the Castello (built in the early 1100’s) was beautiful but a little too dark for my taste. Service was going on with a dozen people at prayer. As I walked outside the sun came out and it was a beautiful afternoon. It would have been nice to be up in the tower when the sun was out. Next time.

I dined at Trattoria La Romantica for lunch: Cappellacci di zucca, which was pumpkin filled pasta in a tomato cream sauce (more creamy than tomato flavor) with walnuts and parmesan cheese (a regional dish), and a side dish of spinach, which was a huge portion. The pasta was wonderful and rich in taste. (16 euros total with 3-euro cover charge).

Ferrara has lots of cobbled streets with colorful buildings. There was an indoor market, which I visited, but most of the stalls were empty. I walked around the various area of town just taking in the city life. I had read about a ceramic shop, so went to find it. I walked along (on top too) the city walls, as a portion of them remain. However, not thinking, I arrived when the stores were closed for their ‘siesta.’

Back in the center of town, I took the bus to the train station and headed back to Venice. The train ride was 1.5 hours, but it was nice to sit and relax.

I had my hotel make dinner reservations at Taverna San Trovaso, a place I had been to before. The place was full and mostly with tourists, but it’s a place I enjoy going to.

The bruschetta pomodoro with stracchino was fabulous. The stracchino is a local cheese and very mild in taste, very soft and creamy. It was excellent. I also had the mixed seafood dish: fried calamari, shrimp, and some sort of small fish with firm polenta. With house wine and water, dinner came to 33 euros.

When I received my bill, it came on a ceramic plate that had the restaurants name on it. I asked the waiter, “Can I buy this plate?” He said, “Yes, this night only.” “In the next 60 seconds?” “Si”. Then he just gave it to me. That made my night. I was also given a complimentary glass of limoncello, which is always a nice touch.

On the way back to the hotel, I stopped at Nico’s, a gelateria, and had a single scoop of pistachio gelato. Nico’s has some of the best gelato in Venice! It was so tasty.

<b>4 June, Friday</b>

Today I woke up late, about 10:30 am. I walked too much yesterday in Ferrara. I missed breakfast but that was okay, as I just wanted to sleep in, relax and not rush out of the hotel. It was another gorgeous day.

I headed to the antique market north of the Academia Bridge at Campo S. Maurizio and bought some loose beads to make into a necklace. The market was quite crowded. All sort of antiques were on display including porcelain, furniture, dishes, glasses, jewelry, murano glass, books, posters, etc. In the area I walked through the many small streets and took pictures. It was great to just wander around and explore the area.

Over on the vaporetto from S. Angelo, I went to the Rialto market. I walked around checking out the vegetables, fruits, and the fish market, which was just closing up. There were many seagull were fighting over the scraps of fish on the ground and inside the plastic trash bags. Some of the birds were quite dominate and several fights broke out. I was able to capture the scene on video. It was quite a scene and very noisy.

I ate some cicchetti (like Spanish tapas) at Osteria Antica Dolo: fried calamari, polenta topped with spicy calamari, and croquettes that were stuffed with green olives and ground beef. All was delicious and enough for a light lunch. I also enjoyed some white wine.

I did some window-shopping and bought a few things. Gold was too expensive to purchase but was nice to look at the window displays of 18k gold pieces. And besides, I have my gold winged lion pendant, so I really didn’t need anything. It was a beautiful afternoon so I just continued to enjoy the city, canals, bridges, and crowds.

A quick vaporetto ride and I was at Piazza San Marco. It was nice being able to hop on and off the vaporetto anytime I wanted to. The piazza was crowded with many people taking in the scenery, having their picture taken, and feeding the pigeons. In one shop, I chatted with the owner. He had lots of beautiful glass but I was in an area where prices are quite high.

Near one of the bandstands (there are three) a wedding party was dancing to the music. The groom wore a gold suit and the bride in her wedding dress was beautiful.

Another vaporetto ride to my hotel, I relaxed in my room before having dinner at Trattoria da Fiore. Dinner was excellent: Caprese - cherry tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella with basil and olive oil. I have to say it was the best mozzarella I've ever had. It was so creamy with a melt-in-your-mouth texture. Next I had the lasagna Bolognese, which was very good. The waitress asked me, "Buono?" I said "No." With her startled look I said, "Molto buono!" She smiled.

After dinner, I went to the Chiesa San Vidal for a concert. I got a seat up front and to the right, so I had a good view of most of the performers. The company was called the Interpreti Veneziani, who has been performing around the world since 1987. The concert lasted 1.5 hours with a break in the middle. It was quite magical sitting in a church in Venice listening to the beautiful music. Most of the music was by Vivaldi, but they also played the music of Bartok and Albinoni. I bought a CD to enjoy back home. (http://www.interpretiveneziani.com/i...e=26〈=en)

On the way home, I took some night shots.

<b>5 June, Saturday</b>

I woke up tired. I've done a ton of walking this trip and going to bed too late reading a good book (Sarah’s Key). I got up at 7:30am and enjoyed breakfast on the terrace. It was a beautiful day and it was a pleasure sitting outside under the umbrellas in the shade watching the boats go by. Breakfast at the hotel was pretty decent with yogurt, ham (the waitress told me it was prosciutto but I knew better), cheese, fruit, breads and pastries, coffee, tea, juice.

It was time to move to my next hotel. After checking out, I walked with my luggage to the Academia Bridge and took the #1 vaporetto to Ca d'Oro stop. From there it was just a 5-minute walk to my hotel, Hotel Giorgione. It was a lovely hotel, my first in Venice with elevators and large lobby! In addition, there was a beautiful outdoor garden area with tables and chairs with a water fountain in the middle. Breakfast is served in a dining room off the garden. There’s also a bar and pool table room. The hotel serves afternoon tea and cookies. Check in was not till 2pm so I headed out to walk around the area.

Nearby was an outdoor fruit and vegetable market, a Coop grocery store, and a wine shop that I had gone to a few years ago. This particular wine shop had large vats of wine, several types, and you can bring in an empty bottle to have filled.

I had lunch (a pasta dish with pancetta and mushrooms) at Hosteria Al Vecio Bragosso. I sat outside in the shade eating lunch and watching the throngs of people walking by. I couldn't imagine being in Venice in late June or July. It was a very hot day, the hottest day yet.

After more walking around in the area (and more photo ops), I went to the hotel and to my room, #215. I requested a single room and was told I would have a single bed; however, the room had a full size bed in the corner with a pretty corner headboard. The bathroom was much smaller than at La Calcina and no shelving for storage. If hotels didn’t install bidets, there would be more room. The best part of the bathroom was the large mirror and decent lighting. The room faced an inner court area, so it was quiet at night. The bedroom area was a nice size with a small closet, flat screen tv., and a mini bar.

Since it was such a hot day (and also having to carry my luggage in the a.m.) I had to take another shower before going back outside.

I walked along Strada Nova, which is a long stretch of street that runs from the train station towards the Rialto Bridge. There are lots of shops with souvenirs, leather shops, and cafes and restaurants. There's even a McDonald's. Why would anyone eat there?

After some window-shopping, I walked back to the wine shop and had my water bottle filled with Pinot Grigio for just 2.20 euros, all for a liter. What a deal!

I was back at ai Tre Spiede for dinner. They have good food and the prices are reasonable. I was served a glass of spritz, which is made of wine and martini rossi. I had the carpaccio, ever so thinly sliced, that had thick slices of Parmesan cheese and truffle oil on top. It was a deliciously large portion. Next I had spaghetti with mixed seafood-clams, calamari, shrimps, etc. With 1/4 liter of red wine, dinner came to 28.56 euros.

Back at the hotel I met a woman, Leslie, sitting out in the garden having a drink. We chatted for about an hour have a couple of drinks. I brought my wine down from the room. It was a beautiful night and we had a nice time talking.

<b>6 June Sunday, Verona</b>

Last night I had decided I would spend my last full day in Venice. I woke up early and decided I would go to Verona even though I hadn't bought any train tickets in advance. After a quick breakfast (nice spread of food at the hotel), I took the vapporetto to the train station and got in line to buy my tickets. The line had about a dozen customers in front of me, so I knew the line would go quickly. Four or five windows were open. I was lucky and caught the next train, only 10 minutes after purchasing my tickets.

It took about 1 hour, 20 minutes to get to Verona. Another hot but sunny day, I walked all around the city. Verona is a beautiful city with fabulous architecture. The lines were long at the Roman amphitheatre so I decided to visit it in the afternoon.

Along the pedestrian street, via Mazzini, there were lots of expensive shops with beautiful window displays. There was no market this day but I got to see the piazza Erbe without all the vendor's umbrellas covering the entire area. The piazza was once the forum in Roman times. All of the streets were small and so colorful. Many of the buildings had wrought iron balconies.

I took the easy way (elevator) to the top of the La Torre dei Lamberti (tower) for some great views. Not one cloud in the sky! The tower was first built in the 12th century and later restored I the mid 1400’s. A large clock was added in 1779.

My friend Anne gave me some restaurant suggestions but I ended up at Osteria Verona Antica. If I didn't have to worry about catching the train back to Venice I wouldn't have minded the slow service. I had a polenta and mixed mushroom dish and pasta with chinghiale (wild boar). I’ve had better.

I walked by Romeo's home...or at least that's the story. Juliette's home was nearby but didn't think about it at the time. I had been there several years ago.

I walked along the river, stopped in a two church’s (one with some fabulous frescoes that had been discovered at some point and unfortunately discovered when the workers used picks to tear town the stucco, which heavily damaged the frescoes). It was sad to see such damage. The other had a fabulous ceiling.

Next I walked to the castle but didn't go inside - I had seen one castle/fortress already and that was enough for this trip. The afternoon was very hot, close to 90 degrees.

In the center of town there was some sort of sport street festival and a stage with musicians. There were lots of cafes in the area with people having afternoon drinks and dessert. At the amphitheatre, I discovered the place had closed at 2pm. I wasn't sure if it was for just the one day; however, that night I did see a concert on tv and I was 98% sure it was at the Verona amphitheatre. I also saw a sign for a Rod Stewart concert for June 21st. Too bad, as it would have been great to see him in concert in such a fabulous place.

I headed back to Venice on the 4:40pm train. It was a nice visit to Verona, as my last time there was back in 2001. It would have been nice to spend a night or two there. Back at the hotel, I had printed out my boarding pass. The hotel has one computer next to the front desk for people to use and a printer set up as well. I had Tony check me in since I couldn’t do it during the day.

I was back at ai Tre Spiedi around 8pm. The restaurant was empty when I arrived, but a few people did come in soon after for dinner. It was a slow night, but then maybe a lot of tourists left the city. I had a delicious bowl of mussels and clams in a light red sauce (like a soup), and then a pork cutlet with potatoes. The water treated me to a shot of cold limoncello. Yum!

I walked along the streets towards St Marks and took several photos. I bought a pretty purse in one of the shops that was still open. It was marked 25 euros. He knocked it down to 23 and I offered 20. He was quick to accept, so I imagined I could have started lower.

Back in the room, I finished off my local white wine, packed my suitcase, and went to bed.

<b>7 June, Monday</b>

I got up at 6:10am and got ready to head to the airport. After breakfast at the hotel and paying the bill, I left at the hotel. The streets were very quiet, although some people were around. I took the #1 vaporetto to Piazzale Roma. On the way I snapped a few last shots of the Grand Canal.

I caught the #5 bus (A1 stop) to the airport. It was a hazy morning, so I knew it would be a very hot day. It was time to get out of Dodge, although another day in Venice would have been great.

Check in was fast since I got to the airport early. Security was tighter than in Philadelphia. I was asked to have my bags inspected. One camera and my itouch were in the carry on bag. Of course, it took a few minutes for me to put everything back neatly so I could close my suitcase. Flying with only carry-on is great but you do have to pack perfectly.

The flight home took a little over nine hours. We took off 30 minutes late but still arrived on time. I watched a couple of movies, read my book, and talked to the flight attendants who treated me to a few goodies.
It took about 40 minutes to get through immigration. I guess I got in the wrong line! I talked to two guys behind me for a bit. They lived in Towson, MD. One security worker had her cute beagle and he went around sniffing the luggage in the area.

Just as I got out of the customs area, I called Tony. I knew he had been working and was calling to see where he was. He said, “I’m just outside.” What a nice surprise! He was just around the corner from the customs area. He had finished working around noon and decided to fly to Philadelphia to meet me so we could drive home together.

On the way home, we stopped for dinner and later he did the rest of the driving. At that point I was pretty tired.
It was a great trip that I really needed and Venice is one place that I can go to anytime and enjoy. I can never get tired of exploring the many streets, canals, and bridges. There's a photo to be taken around every corner.

The weather was beautiful overall with the exception of two very hot days and some rain. I had the opportunity to meet old friends and new friends; and chat with waiters and hotel owners.

I'll be back to Venice again someday soon.

Now it's time to wait for my next trip: Another transatlantic cruise from Rome to Ft. Lauderdale!

Monica J. Pileggi

PS: I hope to get my photos up on my web site next week: http://www.pileggiphotography.com, but you can see some on my blog page: http://monicapileggi.blogspot.com

<b>Venice 2010 Restaurant List:</b>

<b>Alle Zattere</b>
Rio Terra Foscarini, 795. Guidecca canal. Wed-Mon 12-3pm; 7-10pm. This is a great place for lunch, as there are tables out on the terrace that overlooks the Guidecca canal. This was the second time I ate here upon my arrival in Venice, and it was wonderful to sit outside in perfect weather with good food and good friends. They serve a large variety of pizzas and other dishes. I had their pizza with proscuitto, which was filling. With my friends, we shared a bottle of red wine. Lunch was 22 euros.

<b>La Zucca</b>
Ponte del Meglio/Calle delle Tintor 1762, Santa Croce Tel: 041-524-1570 Closed Sundays
I dined with three friends for dinner. The food was delicious. I started with the tagliatelle with pistachio nuts in a gorgonzola sauce – rich, creamy, and tasty, followed by the baked eggplant. We shared a liter of house red wine. 23 euros. This was my second visit to la zucca. Someday I’ll order something with pumpkin!

<b>Osteria da Alberto</b>
Calle Giacinto Gallina 5401, Cannaregio 39-041-5238-153; Closed Sunday
I’ve dined here on previous trips. It’s a reliable place for lunch (or dinner). I had the excellent pasta with clams in a garlic/oil sauce. 15 euros

<b>La Piscina</b>
Dorsoduro 780 - 30123 Venezia - Italy
Tel: 041.520.64.66 Closed Mondays
La Piscina is located at Pensione La Calcina on the south end of Dorsoduro (head due south from the Accademia bridge, turn left at the Guidecca canal and the restaurant is down the street before the first bridge. There is both indoor and outdoor dining – make reservations in advance to sit outside. I met up with three other slow talk friends for dinner. I had the crostini misti to start and the pappardelle pasta with duck ragu. Everything was delicious and filling. We shared a bottle of wine. 32 Euros

<b>Ai Tre Spiedi</b>
Cannaregio 5906 (on Salizzada San Cazian)
Tues-Sat noon-3pm; Tues-Sun 7-10pm 041-520-8035
Vaporetto: Rialto (on San Marco side of bridge, walk straight ahead to Campo San Bartolomeo and take a left, passing post office, Coin department store, and San Crisostomo; cross 1st bridge after church, turn right at toy store onto Salizzada San Cazian). Reservations not accepted AE/MC/V accepted.
This is another restaurant I’ve been to in the past. For my recent trip, I dined here three times:
Lunch: Spinach stuffed tortellini with a cheese sauce and fresh spinach. 13 Euros
Dinner: I was served a glass of spritz, which is made of wine and martini rossi. I had the carpaccio, ever so thinly sliced, that had thick slices of Parmesan cheese and truffle oil on top. It was a deliciously large portion. Next I had spaghetti with mixed seafood-clams, calamari, shrimps, etc. With 1/4 liter of red wine, dinner came to 28.56 euros.
Dinner: I had a delicious bowl of mussels and clams in a light red sauce (zuppa di cozzi e vongolo), and then a pork cutlet with potatoes. The water treated me to a shot of cold limoncello. Yum! With ¼ liter of wine, the bill was 32 euros.

<b>Taverna da Baffo</b>
Campiello Sant'Agostin 2346
A good place drinks and some chichetti before dinner.

<b>Trattoria San Toma</b>
Campo San Toma. 2 minute walk from San Toma vaporetto stop. Hours 12.00 - 15.00 e 19.00 - 23.00 [email protected]
I dined here with a friend. We both ordered the bruschetta for our appetizer, which was large enough that we could have shared but were glad we had our own to enjoy. I had the lamb chops, Barb had the sea bass, which the waiter prepared table-side, and we shared a side dish of grilled vegetables. For dessert, we both had a glass of scroppino, a delicious and refreshing drink made with sorbet, limoncello, and prosecco. 40 Euros.

<b>Taverna San Trovaso</b>
Dorsoduro, 1016, Venice; Phone: 39-041-520-3703 http:/www.santrovaso.it/ Tue-Sun 7-9:50pm
The bruschetta pomodoro with stracchino was fabulous. The stracchino is a local cheese and very mild in taste, very soft and creamy. It was excellent. I also had the mixed seafood dish: fried calamari, shrimp, and some sort of small fish with firm polenta. With house wine and water, dinner came to 33 euros.

<b>Osteria Antico Dolo</b>
www.anticodolo.it. Closed Tuesday. Ruga Rialto 778 Vecchia San Giovanni 773, tel:522-6546. Cross Rialto bridge toward fish market and turn left onto Rughetta Raviano, just past calle Madonna. http://www.anticodolo.it/english/eng_index.htm [email protected]
I ate some cicchetti (like Spanish tapas): Fried calamari, polenta topped with spicy calamari, and croquettes that were stuffed with green olives and ground beef. All was delicious and enough for a light lunch. I also enjoyed some white wine. 14 euros.

<b>Trattoria da Fiore</b>
Wed-Mon noon-3pm and 7-10pm Closed Tues
San Marco 3461 (on Calle delle Botteghe)
Vaporetto: Accademia (cross bridge to San Marco side and walk straight ahead to Campo Santo Stefano; exit campo at northern end, take a left at Bar/Gelateria Paolin onto Calle delle Botteghe)
Tel 041-523-5310 http://www.dafiore.it/main.asp?pg=introduction&lang=eng
Dinner was excellent: Caprese - cherry tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella with basil and olive oil. I have to say it was the best mozzarella I've ever had. It was so creamy with a melt-in-your-mouth texture. Next I had the lasagna Bolognese, which was very good. With ½ liter of white house wine, the bill came to 42 euros.

<b>Hosteria Al Vecio Bragosso </b>
Strada Nuova 4386 S.S. Apostoli 30131 Venezia Phone: 39-041-523-7277
Lunch: Small tagliattini pasta with pancetta and mushrooms (three types), glass of wine; 16 euros

<b>In Ferrara:</b>

<b>Trattoria La Romantica</b>
Via Ripagrande, 36 - 44121 Ferrara
Tel. 0532.765975
http://www.trattorialaromantica.com/
Cappella di zucca in salsa di noci, pumpkin filled pasta in a tomato cream sauce (more creamy than tomato flavor) with walnuts and parmesan cheese (a regional dish), and a side dish of spinach, which was a huge portion. The pasta was wonderful and rich in taste. An excellent lunch (16 euros total with 3-euro cover charge).


<b>In Verona</b>

<b>Osteria Verona Antica</b>
via Sottoriva, 10/A - 37121 - Verona (VR) - T.: +39 045 800 41 24
This is located along the river (NE side) and I sat outside under the umbrellas. The place was just about filled when I arrived. I had a soft polenta topped with mixed mushrooms and thick slices of parmesan cheese; and pasta with chinghiale (wild boar). I’ve had better – the meat was on the dry side. With ¼ liter of wine: 16 euros.

Dayle

Hi Monica,

It's always so great to read your detailed trip reports. I really like Venice too, but in 2 trips haven't had as much wandering time. Thanks for the restaurant recommendations, you had my mouth watering.

chazzarelli

Fantastic trip report - I've jotted down a couple of the restaurants that you visited to take a look at when I make my trip in Sept.

Thanks for sharing all your insight!

WWanderer

Wow, what an amazing report. Lovely to hear from someone who does it the slow way. I haven't been to Venice in 40 years, and when I was there, it was winter. You've made me want to go again, but perhaps in May. Or October.

2010

Thanks for a wonderful trip report, Monica! Loved all your descriptions, especially the food & drink!!! We hope to do more wandering when we go to Venice again next Spring!

Just curious why you chose to stay in two locations? Was there one you preferred?

monicapileggi

Thanks everyone. I guess I should have mentioned more about the hotels. I had to change because la Calcina couldn't take me for all 7 nights. I had booked Calcina first and then hunted for a second one. By the time I narrowed down to Giorgione, Calcina's cancellation policy took affect. I liked both locations. Second time at Calcina. Love the location, as it's away from the crowds and the south end of Dorsoduro is pretty quiet at night. I also enjoyed my short time at G. Very good location too and with more activity in the area in the evenings. Anyone would be happy with either hotel.

I could have added another day trip (Vicenza or Padua) but I did enjoy not having to rush or worry about getting to another city.

I normally travel in the early to mid May time frame, but since this was pretty much a last-minute trip, I went at the end of the month; plus, I only used 5 days of annual leave, with the other days being weekend days, the holiday and my normal Friday off from work. It worked out great.

Monica

YvonneT

Thank you for the excellent report. You did embrace the 'slow' travel philosophy, for sure. And, I loved the way you and Barb bumped into each other before your official meet-up. (I met her in Rome in 2009, she's a lovely person.)

annhig

great report, Monica. it amazes me the number of times I read comments that 3 days is enough for Venice - should one run short of entertainment, there are so many day-trips available.

I like the idea of changing hotels at the same place - you get taste of a different area without losing the joy of being in Venice!

gracie04

Hi Monica,

Thanks for the great report. I was in Venice 2 years ago, and you have brought back a lot of great memories. La Zucca was my favorite restaurant in Venice. I loved walking along the Zattere, and had lunch at La Piscina. They must have been having an off day when we ate there, though, because I remember loving the location and view more than the food.

I also saw the concert at Chiesa San Vidal. You are right, it was magical sitting in that beautiful church listening to such beautiful music.

Thanks again for the report and pictures!

Johanna

jmct714

Love your report... thanks so much! I enjoyed it so much that I went into the archives and read some of your others. Your writing is wonderful, and I appreciate your details and your laid-back attitude, which I think is critical for an enjoyable trip. Really enjoy the reports! Thanks!

monicapileggi

Yvonne, I still chuckle when I think of my first meeting with Barb. To meet up in a restaurant in a small city is pretty amazing. Small world!

Annhig, three days in Venice would never be enough for me. I wanted to go back to Burano one early morning, but it didn't happen. And as you said, there are day trip options. Back in 2006, I did a day trip to the Veneto towns: Asolo, Marostica, Bassano del Grappa, one of the Palladian villas, and a prosecco winery for some sampling and purchasing. My other town options for this past trip was Vicenza, Padua, and even Chioggia (although it takes a few changes in transportation to get there). I wanted to visit the Lido and/or Giudecca = next time!

Johanna, I've read one negative review of La Piscina. I was very happy with my meals there. And the others enjoyed theirs too. La Zucca is great. It was packed the entire night. Reservations are a must.

I'm very happy I attended the Vivaldi concert. I wish it had been longer, as the 1.5 hours went by quickly. Venice is a city of music and I can't imagine a better place…of course, the concert at San Chapelle in Paris was also heavenly (love the stained-glass windows there).

Jmct714, thanks for the compliments. I do put too much in my journals sometimes. But I'm glad that fellow travelers can use some of the information or just enjoy reading them.

Monica

k9korps

Outstanding report. (You put mine to shame.) I plan to print out and use on my trip.

SOCALOC

Lovely report and love your travel style. I felt like I was in Venice again. Thanks.

Treesa

Monica, thank you so much for sharing Venice with us. We'll be there in October (actually staying in Padua) and planning to enjoy some of your recommended restaurants and sights. We always learn something new on this forum. When are you coming to San Diego?

Paul1950

Sweet. Thanks. And nicely written with paragraphs and everything to make reading even easier!

Byrd

Thank you, Monica, for taking us on a visit to Venice.

I love your report, and, of course, I love Venice.

Byrd

mscarls

Monica,

I enjoyed your report for several reasons.

1. I wondered how easy it would be and how long it would take for a day trip to Verona from Venice.
2. I needed an update on Venice restaurants, because we will probably go there next summer.
3. I was born and lived in Frederick, Maryland until I graduated from college. I then worked in the D.C. area. I am now retired and living near San Diego.

Thanks.

Mark

monicapileggi

Thanks everyone for the compliments. I'm so glad the information is helpful to those of you heading to Venice. I really need to work on my photos so you can enjoy them. I'll start tonight.

Mark, my husband grew up here in Frederick, so I guess you can say he's a native.

San Diego: Not sure when I'll get back there. Last time I was there was 2004 I think. Next trip is my transatlantic cruise out of Rome. Can't wait!!

Monica

flygirl

Great report! I missed it when you first posted it.

monicapileggi

Thanks flygirl!

Monica