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Venice Restaurants in February
Can anyone recommend some good restaurants in Venice? We will be there next month. We are New Yorkers and thus a bit jaded when it comes to tired decor and menus (and especially "famous" restaurants that are just famous, not good).
We're interested in both small, good, off the beaten path trattorie and also upscale places if they are worth the splurge. Thanks Fodorites! |
Hi fellow New Yorker:
a few places in Venice close down for part of the winter, but everything should be open again as Carnevale approaches. Antico Martini and its less expensive and less fancy sister restaurant Vino Vino are pretty highly thought of. Worth the splurge: Da Fiore ( one of the best meals of my life) and the restaurant of the Cipriani Hotel (taking the private launch for the five minute water trip to get there is icing on the cake). Reserve at Da Fiore in advance, especialy if you will be there during Carnevale. Very good: Sempione (touristy before 8:30 pm,not fancy,but good value) Trattoria San Toma, everything from good pizza to full meals, not expensive I have a file on Venice; if you'd like to see it, email me at [email protected] |
I highly recommend the book Chow! Venice by two frequent posters on the slowtrav board. I followed their recommendations on my last trip, and never went wrong. Book is great...lots of price ranges, very detailed directions (critical in Venice!). It's available on Amazon. One of our favorites was Casin de Nobili.
Enjoy your trip! Anne |
Elaine - May I impose upon you to send me a copy of your file too. I can e-mail you with this request if you don't mind. I'm going to Venice in April and always enjoy reading your comments. I'd love to have your Venice file. Thanks
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AnnO - Casin de Nobili is right near where we are staying. What was the food like? Time Out describes it as a low key student hang out with good pizza and other food. Sounds good.
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Hi Traveller. My then-girlfriend & I discovered the Casin de Nobili since we were staying only a few blocks from it. We ate there twice and enjoyed it quite a bit. The food was fine (caveat: we're not foodies.)
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I would describe myself as a foodie, but sometimes it is nice to have a simple, cheap alternative when all the rich food and fancy places start to get to you. Has anyone been to Ai 4 Feri in the same neighborhood or recommend anything else in the Campo San Barnaba area? Thanks!
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If you plan to visit Lido there is a very good seafood restaurant "Trattoria Favorita" a few minutes walk from the Vaporetto dock. Also, you might like Fiaschetteria Toscana in Cannaregio located a couple of blocks from the Rialto Bridge. Both are listed in Fodors Restaurant Rants & Raves, and both are members of the Buon Ricordo association.
Two other places you might ask this question or search for previous comments are chowhound.com and slowtalk.com. |
L'Osteria di Santa Marina.... www.osteriadisantamarina.it Campo Santa Marina EXCELLENT!!! (thumbs up Over Da Fiore...which isn't always consistent) For the Best Pizza & homemade desserts: Antico Panificio 041 277 09 67 (San Polo 945 A/B) For dessert...Caprese and/or Pastiere. They also had both red & white Fragolino....fun to try both! |
We also enjoyed Casin dei Nobili. It is low key but I definitely wouldn't call it a student hangout. It has a full range of options, not just pizza. The food was very good. We loved the food and atmosphere at Alle Testiere in the Castello area - about a 5 minute walk from San Marco. The restaurant is very small and has two seatings at 7 and 9 pm. Reservations are necessary.
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We loved L'Osteria di Santa Marina...thanks for reminding me, Bailey! The seafood was wonderful.
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Yes
I've seen a copy of our own Shannon's book "Chow Venice" and the reviews of restaurants are very helpful, including specific walking directions. Amazon sells the book, and the first review there is mine. |
correction, mine is by no means the first review
when I first searched for the book listing on amazon, the previous reviews didn't show up now they do |
I <b>think</b> I ate at Ai 4 feri. We had seen a place during our walks one day that looked very interesting & wanted to go back for dinner. All I could remember was it was near C San Barnaba. We walked & walked & couldn't find it. In the end, we just went into a place & had a great, inexpensive dinner. I think they were having a service problem that night & because we were patient & helpful (long story) they bought us after dinner drinks. I have the card from Ai 4 feri-so I think that's where we were.
Later, someone posted here about Avogaria & that's the place we saw but couldn't find. It's also near C. San Barnaba & whoever posted ssid it was terrific. |
Traveller, if you're a foodie who can also enjoy a simple, cheap alternative then you probably would like Casin de Nobili.
We also liked the pizza at Antico Capon, which is in nearby Campo Santa Margherita. By the way, on your way from Campo San Barnaba to Campo Santa Margherita, don't miss the great mask shop on the left hand side, shortly after you cross the bridge by the fruit & vegetable boat. |
I'm kicking myself for not recording the name of the place we at in October - on Halloween, actually. It is near the foot of the Rialto bridge, I believe on the side where the Disney store is (I seem to remember that in the directions). It has a jazz theme and I think the words "jazz bar" might be in the name.
It was amazing. We had various little seafood dishes and then some little pasta 'sampler's' almost. The staff was wonderful. If you stay long enough and are friendly, they will invite you to sign their guest books. They have a whole bunch of them for the past I don't know how many years. Excellent place. I'll see if I can somehow find the name. |
Celtic - are you talking about "Bacaro Jazz?"
Traveller - I would definitely check out La Zucca in Santa Croce (off the beaten track, interesting, excellent food at a great price.) You must make a reservation. Another of my favorites is Osteria da Alberto in Cannaregio. I am co-author of Chow! Venice but I also have a list of restaurants on slowtrav.com you can get for free. I can send you a link if you want - just email me at [email protected]. |
PS - thanks for the review on amazon, Elaine!
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Never knew that about you Rialtogirl! Will have to check it out. Have you been to Avogaria?
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What about the ones that seem to come up here often -- Da Fiore, Al Covo, Corte Sconta, Vini da Gigio? Anyone love or hate them?
What about Harry's -- is it worth stopping in just for a drink? |
McLaurie, I haven't been to Avogaria. I'll have to check it out on the next trip. I have heard conflicting reports. It looks fantastic on their website.
traveller - YES, stop by Harry's for a drink! Go in the middle of the afternoon when it is not too crowded. Espresso or prosecco are the best things to order if you don't want to spend a fortune. I hated Al Covo. Da Fiore and Corte Sconta are very expensive, but worth it. |
"I hated Al Covo."
...and this comes from a supposed food critic/author? Give us a break, PLEASE! Just one more reason to ignore slowtrav. No reputable food critic would EVER use the word "hate" in a critique of any restaurant, especially one of Venice's top 10. "Chow! Venice" is one publication I will NOT be reading. |
I'm not a food critic. I doubt I will ever write another book about food.
Al Covo is a restaurant that some people love and some people wonder what all the fuss was about. Is that better? I personally would not go there again. |
I appreciate the commentary. There are def. top restaurants here in NY that I just don't get, despite the lavish praise. Diff people look for diff things in a restaurant...
Fodorites -- Of the "fancy"/top-rated restaurants in Venice, which is the best bang for the buck? |
Fodorites, in case you didn't know, opinions are like @#%holes, everybody's got one.
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We liked Da Fiore; we just went for lunch (can't remember if that was because we couldn't get a dinner reservation or to save money :))
Definitely go to Harry's, and also to one of cafes on Piazza San Marco :) |
Bacaro Jazz - that' it exactly. I really enjoyed it.
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"I'm not a food critic. I doubt I will ever write another book about food."
Oh my! I think that's a very good idea, dear. It's best to stick to a subject you know something about. (Isn't it amazing how many thousands of people audition for "American Idol" and all of them actually believe they can sing?) "Al Covo is a restaurant that some people love and some people wonder what all the fuss was about." You know, I've met many people throughout my life who have said the same thing about Italy. Can you imagine? As soon as I meet someone like this, I walk away. The very same thing has been said thousands of times in reference to Corta Sconta and Da Fiore. In her book "Eating In Italy," Faith Willinger (who knows much about Venice cucina) says of Corta Sconta, "What a wonderful treat it used to be to eat under a grape arbor...But, the thrill, at least during the tourist season, is gone. Hordes of diners, famished for food of quality, descend on this ten-table restaurant and seem to have changed the perspective of the cucina." She probably would say the same thing about Da Fiore and Al Covo, today, because both suffer miserably from all those tourists looking to brag about "getting in." It's OK to do this at Harry's because you're just going for a Bellini. Al Covo is much easier to find and much more accessible to Piazza San Marco than the others which makes it seriously vulnerable to the hungry hordes of status-seeking tourists who are looking for something beyond description. If I were Cesare Benelli, I'd close up shop, move, and start all over again under a different name. Yet, Diane, his lovely wife, hails from Texas and they love their American customers. So, the cycle would occur all over again. I've learned to avoid Venice at peak season and I visit Da Fiore and Al Covo only when there are almost no tourists in Venice and nothing can be more divine. I'll simply say to Cesare, "whip up something special" and with a handsome smile pure magic will unfold before me. Diane, who loves pleasing anyone with a sweet tooth, will present a tasting of the most delectable offerings one can find in Venice. I've been to Al Covo over a dozen times and I can't imagine a trip to Venice without a visit here. If traveller212 is looking for a brilliant bang, may I suggest the dining room at Monaco e Grand? I'll go here only with a lover but always find the evening truly glamourous and without fault. In many ways it beats almost anything Cipriani has to offer, minus the boat. And to rialtogrl, may I suggest a screename change? |
You are right, NYCSnob, I am not really cut out for writing guidebooks. It is easy to write something in a journal, very difficult to write something other people will read. Not to mention the year it took and the cash I spent. Or that it takes all the joy out of dining. Whatever. Another life experience.
I think it probably helps to know Cesare and Diane at Al Covo. Maybe some day I'll give it another try. The "rants and raves" on this board about Al Covo are similar to what I've heard about it over the years - people either love it or they hate it. |
I've started quite a debate here! NYCFoodSnob and Elaine, what are your favorite restaurants in NYC (not to get off the subject, but as a point of comparison). Thanks!
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No hard feelings, rialtogrl. Another life experience, indeed. Writing can be a lonely life and expensive, too. Boy did HBO get this wrong with "Carrie" in "Sex In The City."
I've been writing about food (and other things) for over 20 years. Dining-as-theater will always be a crap shoot. Everything is "live" and it takes real people to make magic happen, night after night, year after year. Even the best fail, sometimes. That's no reason to write anybody off with the words "hate" and "never" and wesley is right, no credible writer would use these words. Most restaurant owners care deeply about their customer's experience, especially the one's who sparkle with acclaim. But, with this acclaim comes a double edged sword. God forbid you have an off night or don't meet one patron's expectations. Yes, it helps to know the owners but even first time visitors can make a connection if they learn how. Many veteran actors on Broadway love to talk about making a connection with the audience because the electricity is riveting. It always take two to tango and I think fine dining is a dance. I'm just lucky I've got plenty of rhythm. |
Oh, is that what you've got plenty of? I must have been confused, for some reason I thought it was something else...
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In the case of Al Covo, I will side with NYCFood Snob. One of the single most memorable and delectable dishes I have every tasted was the gnocci with cauliflower and red mullet at Al Covo. The entire meal was wonderful but that dish remains on my lifetime Top 10.
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Al Covo was good but not great and I thought quite pricey for the portions. I would not go again.
I am still looking for good food in Venice at a reasonable price. |
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