Venice: it was a dark and stormy night..
 

We left Berlin in beautiful sunny weather at 7:30 PM on May 4 and arrived in Venice around 9PM. After a bumpy flight and hard landing we rode the bus to the vaporetta stop. A Beatles song played and the lightning flashed across the sky. Welcome to Venice! Our stop was Ca Rezzonico. We were off by one street looking for our hotel in the downpour. We (four of us) huddled under an awning for the worst of it, asked for help and found our hotel..Casa Rezzonico. It was very clean, with new bathrooms, large garden in rear and small canal in front. It was €150 per night with continental breakfast.

With the exception of Thursday morning we had warm weather with the bluest skies one could imagine. Venice is surreal. While I understand its history and how it was built, it just doesn't seem possible. I don't think there are words to do it justice.

aaahhh Venice.

We went to Accademia Galleria Thursday morning and then found our way to St. Marks Square. We wandered along the water back to Dorsoduro. I had my first double gelato along the way followed shortly after by another (!!) double in Campo San Margherita. Much lighter and more fluffy than the first. Plus a glass of prosecco while sitting in the square. Now I know what the Fodorites mean when they rave about those two items!

We ate at Osteria Enoteca in Campo S. Barnaba (where we hid under the awning from the rain). It was very good although I did not care for the seafood sampler appetizer..eel, octopus and lord knows what else. I called it Fear Factor! And for dessert...mousse gelato from yet another place in S. Margherita!

what did you think of staying in the
Ca' Rezzonico neighborhood?

elaine: I have nothing to compare it to but I liked it. I like to walk and it seemed central to me. The vaporetto stop was about a block away from the hotel. We walked to the bus station when we left in about 10 minutes and it was about 15 minutes to St. Marks. It did not seem touristy to me. Have you ever seen photos of the man in the boat who sells vegetables at the canal by S. Barnaba? We were just down from there. We were able to see most of the rooms at Hotel San Barnaba, more expensive but just gorgeous.

Where do you like to stay in Venice?

What was your opinion of the Accademia -time wasted or worth taking time from something else in Venice?

gomiki,

Glad you had such a great time--thanks for the report.

I have always wanted to stay at the San Barnaba, but they've been booked every time I've tried to reserve. Love that area.

Can't wait to hear more.

rickmay: Good question. How much do you like looking at paintings (: They did a good job of explaining the artists and how they were connected. It was not time wasted but if I had very limited time I might do something else. But that's easy to say because I saw it! I was trying to see the things in DK Top Ten Venice. We went to Ca Rezzonico, a museum of 18th century Venice (once owned by Robert Browning). I really enjoyed it. There is furniture as well as art. On the third floor is a very interesting collection of art collected by a man who was a restorer.

I went to Lido and Murano and would not have done that but my TCs wanted to. So much to do, never enough time.

On my visits I've stayed in San Marco, close to the Piazza. I've wondered though what it would be like to stay in Dorsoduro and if I would mind the 15-20 minute walk to the Piazza.

Friday morning we (TC, his daughter and her husband) took the Secret Tour of the Doges Palace. It was wonderful, a must do IMHO. We rushed through the palace afterwards as the rest of the group wanted to go to Lido. It was a beautiful day and the water was as warm as it ever gets on Cape Cod. But no one was in the water as it is cold for the residents! The SIL has a friend who has a summer place nearby and has been to the beach with her. He told us that all the women (at least the younger ones) go to the beach in full makeup and beautifully done hair and would never think of getting wet or swimming!

We split up and my TC & I tried to go to the Frari and got completely lost. We found it and peeked in but had no time to see it. Bact to hotel to change and off to St. Marks for sunset. It is a unique experience. The light, the people, the music combine for something very special.

elaine: Are you there in the high season? It seemed to me to be so crowded. We walked in a large circle past the opera house looking for a restaurant that we never found. It was very quiet off the main area so I guess you can find quiet near St. Marks. Do you have a recommendation?

gomiki, I am just loving this, Great Trip report!!

After not finding the restaurant we were looking for we took a wrong turn past Accademia and found Taverna San Trovaso. It is very good and very reasonable with more than ample portions. They also have outdoor seating in a patio enclosed by high walls. Our only negative comment is that it was so bright. Dimmers would be good!

The next morning I went to the Rialto Market. I love the markets in Paris and this one is a treat! Everything in the markets I have seen in Europe looks like a painting. And I can't imagine how much work it must be to pack, unpack, set up, pack and leave!

It's amazing to see everthing on the canals on and in the boats. Including a coffin. Forgive me, but does anyone know what happens to the deceased in Venice?

Hi Gomiki, great to read about your trip to Venice. I'm smiling about the water being as warm as it ever gets on the Cape but too cold for the Italians. And your fear factor appetizer actually sounds pretty good to me.

I really enjoyed the Accademia. There were wonderful printouts in each gallery explaining the paintings and I learned a lot about a style of painting with which I had been largely unfamiliar.

no,never HIGH season
always late Sept to first week of Oct

elaine: What is the weather like and do you have a hotel to suggest? I feel lucky to have been there when we were. It was around 70 (I think) and the wisteria is draped over walls and hanging over the canals. I think I am spoiled for anything else!

I can't beat wisteria, but late Sept-early October has offered me warm days and cool nights with only occasional drizzle, heavy rain just once.

I've stayed twice at the hotel Flora, and once at the Saturnia Internazionale, they are within a 3 minute walk of each other.

elaine, thanks for the info. I think that would work for me (: I don't mind Paris in dreary weather but I'm not sure I would feel the same way about Venice with all that water around.

Thank you Scarlett & Nikki. Nikki, I eat all the usual raw shellfish. I think it's a texture issue with the other things.

gomiki, they put the deceased on little rafts ala Huck Finn and send them out into the sunset.

Oh, not really, just kidding. There is, between Venice and Murano, the cemetery island San Michele. We went by it in a little boat and it felt appropriately eerie and spooky.

Hi gomiki,

I think we had parallel Venice trips! Last May DH and I stayed in Casa Rezzonico, ate well at Taverna San Trovaso, and hung out in Campo Santa Margherita. Is Matteo still working the front desk at the hotel? He was always so helpful.