Venice experts: Ca' d'Oro or Ca'Rezzonico?
 

We're visiting Venice in September and will hit all the must-sees - Doge's Palace, St. Mark's Basilica, Murano-Burano-Torcello, Accademia, etc. We (3 couples) are trying to decide between seeing either Ca'd'Oro or Ca'Rezzonico. Could anyone who has seen both or either comment? Is one vastly superior. We are getting mixed reviews from a couple of guidebooks.

Thanks in advance for your help!

TexTraveler

I didn't stay at Casa Rezzonico myself, but had seriously considered it for a visit last May. It was not available for our dates, so we stayed at Hotel Riva (and liked its canal location better). My daughter stayed at Casa Rezzonico during the last Carnivale, so she had recommended it to me.
I looked at it when I was in Venice, and it looks quite nice for a cute little budget hotel. It's situated further from the crowded tourist sites. It has that nice central garden area, which was a big plus to us. They serve breakfast out there in good weather. It seemed like a nice, clean and charming little hotel. There was a very nice man at front desk.
Sorry, don't know Ca d'Oro.

aren't these museums we're talking about? :/

Yes, they are the museums/palazzos we are talking about. I know there are similarly named hotels, but we are trying to decide which museum to visit.

Thanks!

TexTraveler

Sorry-- identical names make it confusing!

Sorry I cannot tell about Ca' d'Oro. I have been to Venice about 10 times but have never entered there. Perhpas it's because a friend of mine told me once it's nice to see it from outside and best thing about it is the view of the Canal Grande from it's windows. Maybe he is wrong. I should visit it at least once.

On the other hand I found Ca'Rezzonico very interesting including Japanese antique collection on the bit dark top floor.

It's very hard to compare the two.

The Ca d'Oro was closed for decades for restoration and reopened, I think, in the early 90s. The collection of a single Venetian nobleman, it is what I would call eclectic - from early to fairly late works, say, 14th to 18th century. Its best work is probably "Saint Sebastian" by Mantegna. It has the sorry remains of Giorgione's and Titian's frescoes from the Fondaco dei Tedeschi, but one can hardly make anything of them. There are one or two vedute by Francesco Guardi. There are other works, but I don't remember them. A Van Dyck portrait perhaps? There are also some sculptures and furniture.

The Ca Rezzonico is devoted entirely to 18th-century Venetian art. In addition to the paintings - Pietro Longhi genre scenes, two paintings of Venetian life by Francesco Guardi (very different from his vedute), some wonderful frescoes (detached from a villa in the countryside) by Giandomenico Tiepolo (son of the more famous Gianbattista) - all the ceiling paintings are still preserved, many of them by Gianbattista Tiepolo, as well as some interesting 18th-century furniture. There's also an 18th-century boudoir, an old puppet theater and a reconstruction of an 18th-century pharmacy. The palazzo also belonged to Pen Browning for a time, and his father, the poet Robert Browning, died there.

You can probably tell from this - although I have tried to be scrupulously fair - that my personal preference is for the Ca Rezzonico. There is something about the decadence and decline of La Serenissima that I find very touching.

At the Accademia, you will see the works from Venice's prime as well as some later works.

I have not been to Ca d'Oro but I loved Ca'Rezzonica. It is beautifully preserved and really opens a window into life in Venice in the 17-1800s.

There is a truly amazing Murano chandelier and other rare pieces of furniture. If you go, allow time for the top floor. It has the collection of a restorer of paintings. They are from many different periods and include a few contemporary Venice artists.

Peek out of the top floor windows for wonderful rooftop views. Photos are not allowed in the musuem but I was allowed to take some of the rooftops.

I've visited both and agree with Eloise that Ca'Rezzonico would be my choice. Ca'd'Oro is very lovely and pictures taken from the loggia on the Grand Canal are some of my favorites. They do have an important VanDyke and the remains of the Titian frescos are special (if you're a Titian fan). There is also a very large, scholarly collection of pottery/ceramics that would be of interest to some. Also an extensive collection of small bronzes. And some very nice Gaudi's.Ca' Rezzonico has several astounding Murano chandeliers, beautiful decorative arts,a Tiopolo ceiling (last November they were running a continuous short film on the restoration/conservation of this work). They also run special exhibits (usually from the holdings of the Museo Correr). There is alot to see (or a little, depending on your museum style). Friends we traveled with went through Ca'Rezzonico in 90 minutes; my DH and I spent 5 hours.

Here's another vote for Ca' Rezzonico. I was more enthralled with the old Venice that is captured there, as well.

Thanks for the delightfully detailed descriptions, everyone!

TexTraveler

We really liked Ca'Rezzonica when we went in the Fall.

Now, you are not supposed to take pictures in there (which we did not...of the art and artifacts), however when you are on one of the upper floors, there is a window that looks out on a great canal scene (you'll know it when you see it). It's my favorite Venice picture from the last trip.

By the way, if you did go to both, you could say you had a CaCa day.

((H))

Why choose between the two? They're both just a few vaporetto stops away from each other-going up from San Marco on the #1 vaporetto, you'll hit Ca Rezzonico on the left side of the Grand Canal, and then a few stops up on the right, is the eponymously named Ca d'Oro vaporetto stop-you can actually touch Ca d'Oro with your left hand as you're leaving the vaporetto here, and there is a peek hole on the side of Ca d'Oro to give you a glimpse of what's inside.

However, if I were to choose between the two, I'd go with Ca' Rezzonico-it's very interesting-and as mentioned the Tiepolo frescoes are pretty stunning.

Two restaurants of note: on Campo San Barnaba, on Calle Lunga San Barnaba, just past Ca' Rezz. up on the left, is one of my favorites-AI QUATTRO FERRI-the place is packed with locals and tourists trying to get in in the evening-if you're at Ca' Rezz-you could stop in during the day and make an evening dinner reservation-excellent food and atmosphere-no outdoor dining though.

And as for Ca'd'Oro-just across the Strada Nuova, and down the tiny calle is one of Venice's best trattorie-TRATTORIA CA'D'ORO (otherwise known as ALLA VEDOVA (the widow)). You should try to get here just for the local Venetian flavor you'll experience, quite apart from the excellent Venetian food.

Another vote for Ca'Rezzonico - and don't miss the wonderful Genninger glass shop next door. It's literally right in front of you when you get off the vaporetto at Ca'Rezzonico.

For maryk:

You had me at Genninger glass! That is on my list to see also, so how convenient that it is near the Ca'Rezz!

TexTraveler