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Venice--dining on fish on Sundays and Mondays?

Venice--dining on fish on Sundays and Mondays?

Jul 18th, 2012, 12:24 PM
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Thanks everyone--I'm getting hungry just reading your posts! La Zucca is on my list now. Yes, pizza is an option!

Rastaguy--thank you--my memory is horrible, and I will re-read that chapter.

Annhig, thanks again for such detailed information (and recipes). Using the Google "search nearby" function is a good idea.

Ackislander, your thoughts on fresh v. really fresh are great--and I especially appreciate your distinction between the small "dayboat" fish in Venice and other kinds--that makes a lot of sense to me--great advice.
RMMR2 is offline  
Jul 18th, 2012, 02:00 PM
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I would not take that Bourdain advice as gospel.

First rate restaurants will have their own sources of fish other than the Rialto market. They have cultivated relationships with fishermen and middle men who will be delivering/supplying fresh fish even on non-market days. Just as you can happily eat fish at Le Bernadin in New York on a Monday, you can happily eat it in in a top Venice restaurant Venice on a Monday.

As for eating local fish, nothing is guaranteed, but in my Italian experience, the more you ask of the servers, the better the quality of your meal. I remember a recent meal in the Cilento where I asked about the clams--"Are they local?" NO, I was told. They were from about about 250 km distant and therefore not considered to be local.

Agree about the oily fish (pesce azzuro) though.
ekscrunchy is offline  
Jul 20th, 2012, 07:06 AM
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The fish selection is limited by Monday. The better restaurants have little that they are still willing to serve.
Keith is offline  
Jul 20th, 2012, 12:40 PM
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IMHO - fresh fish means caught that morning. "Fresh frozen" is simply frozen and nothing to do with fresh - unless you are comparing it to spoiled frozen. Our local fish market gets their fish off the boats every am - the only way to go.
nytraveler is offline  
Jul 20th, 2012, 03:48 PM
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nytraveler.... do you shop at Dorian's? ??
Gwendolynn is online now  
Jul 20th, 2012, 04:08 PM
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I remember in Venice watching as a fisherman pulled his open boat up in front of a restaurant. The chef came out, checked over his catch, and picked some items. The fisherman weighed them with a handheld scale, handed them over and was paid. The restaurant was Cantinone Storico; bet the fish was fresh there that night.

So not all fish comes from the market.
Mimar is offline  
Jul 24th, 2012, 01:17 PM
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Many restaurants specialising in fish are not even open Sunday and/or Monday. I have to say, though, that I have occasionally eaten fish on a Monday here and survived But you say 'should you save your fish-eating days for other days?' - well, if you are here other days and don't intend to eat fish every day, why not?

I also recommend La Zucca but the veggie dishes are better than the meat ones IMO. It's not open on Sunday, though.

The only sizeable market is at Rialto. There is the odd fish shop or stall or two around the city, but none are open on Sunday or Monday. There are also vegetable shops & stalls here & there and they are open on Monday. Actually, I assume the vegetable section of the Rialto market is open on a Monday too, but I've never been there then. If you say where you are staying, I may be able to tell you the nearest shops or stalls.

My favourite restaurant is the Osteria-Enoteca Ai Artisti on Fondamenta della Toletta (not to be confused with the nearby Bar Ai Artisti in Campo San Barnaba).The chef goes to market each morning and buys what's good so the menu changes every day: most days it's largely fish but is open on Monday servig just meat & vegetarian dishes.
caroline_edinburgh is offline  
Jul 26th, 2012, 11:46 AM
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Thank you, thank you, once again. Love this forum.

Ekscrunchy and Mimar, excellent points.

Caroline, thanks so much for your restaurant recommendations, and I'd be grateful if you have any thoughts/recommendations on nearest shops or stalls. We are staying in an apartment for a week (arriving on Sunday). The apartment is in San Marco on the Grand Canal, between Palazzo Grassi and Palazzo Corner-Spinelli.
RMMR2 is offline  
Jul 26th, 2012, 12:54 PM
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RMMR2, you'll need to travel a bit to buy groceries. I stayed very close to your place in Campo Sant'Angelo in May and there aren't a heck of a lot of food shopping options in the area. There are a couple of small deli/grocery stores around for immediate needs, and a wine shop - I THINK on Calle Botteghe just up the street from you. If not on that calle then very close. Other than that you'll need to venture out, so I would just head to the Rialto market on Tuesday and load up...

As for larger grocery stores there is a new Co-op Supermarket (they are a local chain) in Campo Santa Marina. It is not insanely close, but it is closer than some of your other options. Maybe others will know of something closer to you.
rialtogrl is offline  
Jul 26th, 2012, 01:44 PM
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Another reason to dine at Zucca--it is just off of Campo San Giacomo dell' Orio, the most beautiful campo in Venice.

Keith and I liked our calamari three ways at Beccaficco in Campo San Stefano.

My favourite supermaket in Venice is Billa on the Zatere.

The Billa on the Strada Nova isn't bad, but it can get very crowded.

Pepper_von_snoot is online now  
Jul 26th, 2012, 02:21 PM
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rialtogrl--thanks, very helpful.

Thin---mmmmm, calamari . . . . and perhaps we will check out Billa.
RMMR2 is offline  
Jul 27th, 2012, 05:26 AM
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RMMR2 - you are staying very near where we live! Unfortunately rialtogirl is right and the whole of the San Marco sestiere is not great for food shopping.

Where I normally go... Since we'd always stayed in Dorsoduro before moving into ur current flat, I still tend to go back to Dorsoduro for most of our shopping - the fishmongers' stalls in Campo Santa Margherita, sometimes one of the grengrocers' stalls there or the boat by the Ponte dei Pugni (or the shop on Fondamenta San Bisagio), the draught wine shop in the Campo dei Carmini. I used the butcher's shop in Campo Santa Margherita for a while but have now switched to one on the Calle dei Fabbri near Campo San Luca - it doesn't have a huge choice, though. And I like Billa on the Zattere - the one on Strada Nuova is bigger but I find it a bit oppressive. IME the Coops are less interesting. For bread we like the ciabatta from the shop on Campo San Toma (via traghetto) but when I can be bothered I've started going up to the baker's on Salizada San Canzian where they also have lovely walnut bread and olive rolls - actually, I think they may supply the shop at San Toma but they don't always have much there. Sadly there are *no* fishmongers in San Marco so I'm still mainly going to Campo SM for fish, although yesterday I tried the solitary stall in Campiello Stella & while it didn't have a huge choice the price & quality of what I bought were both good - it's not close but not much further than the vg bread shop - probably my quickest option (and the only one which doesn't involve a boat)! If you are anywhere near Via Gariabldi, there's also a fish stall (by the Giardini gates), a fish shop & a butcher's there. Then of course there's the Rialto - we have been there occasionally in the past but couldn't go while we were studying and haven't got back into it yet.

Nearer options... For times when we just want some everyday bread, a bit of cheese or the odd grocery item, we use the small grocery shop on Calle delle Botteghe and there's also a wine shop there which sells draught wine, although not as cheap as the shop at the Carmini of course. And there's a greengrocer's shop on Calle de la Mandola, just north of Campo Sant'Angelo.

As regards eating out we've get to be impressed by the quality or price of any restaurants in our area (except the food at the Da Fiore bar on Calle delle Botteghe) so we generally still end up eating out in Dorsoduro too. We've just recently tried the pizza at the 2 Casin dei Nobili restaurants (where we've always enjoyed the fish) and it's the best we've had in Venice so far - and they are open on Sunday.
caroline_edinburgh is offline  
Jul 27th, 2012, 05:38 AM
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P.S. 1) That should have been 'yet to be impressed'.

P.S. 2) I've just looked at your previous thread about your apartment - we rented one ('Orseolo') from Truly Venice for our last holiday before moving here, and it was lovely - nicer than our (then) flat at home! And it was cheaper than yours (even though it had a separate bedroom) but of course it wasn't on the Grand Canal. So yours should be - well - palatial! I found Truly Venice excellent to deal with.
caroline_edinburgh is offline  
Jul 27th, 2012, 09:29 AM
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Caroline, I can't thank you enough. How great it is to get information and advice from someone living in Venice (and close to our rental, to boot!). I must say, I'm a bit disappointed that we're not in the best area for food shopping or restaurants, but we don't mind walking further to restaurants, and as for food shopping, we don't plan to make elaborate meals that would require lots of time and ingredients. We just don't want to eat out all the time. I've read so much about the Rialto markets that I'm sure we'll make one food-buying trip there to stock up on produce, possibly fish, etc, and then hit one or more of the other places you've suggested for other things.

It's great to hear that Truly Venice is a good company. Our apartment is definitely a splurge (though we're spending far less on an apartment in Bologna the following week, so that balances things out a bit). We had planned to get something with a separate bedroom, but when we saw the location on the GC, and the photos of the place, it just spoke to us! I hope we're not disappointed.
RMMR2 is offline  
Jul 27th, 2012, 10:45 AM
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Caroline - have you tried that place in Sant' Angelo called... Hostaria Galileo? I think it is called that. They are next to Acqua Pazza. We had a very interesting meal there. It was different.. the chef is trying to mix things up a little, sometimes successfully and sometimes not so successfully. But it is kind of a cool place and the people are really nice. It is worth checking out if you haven't already.

As for Casin dei Nobili - pizza is only served after 7 PM at the one by San Barnaba. Not sure about the one at the Zattere.
rialtogrl is offline  
Jul 27th, 2012, 12:12 PM
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For the restaurant with the best, freshest fish we have always loved Alle Testiere. I don't recall a written menu, just what they have fresh that day. Not inexpensive, but wonderful. Unfortunately I suspect they're closed on Sunday and Monday but don't know for sure. The website doesn't seem to say.
shellio is offline  
Jul 27th, 2012, 03:14 PM
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Thanks rialtogrl and shellio.
RMMR2 is offline  
Jul 30th, 2012, 01:38 AM
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Hi - I was just looking at www.veniceconnected.com which is a site I haven't really used before, but on which Yvonne had pointed us to something interesting. There's a section there about markets - www.veniceconnected.com/content/markets-venice. I didn't know about the farmers' market at Santa Marta so may have to check it out this afternoon!
caroline_edinburgh is offline  
Jul 30th, 2012, 02:05 AM
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On Thursdays, the women prisoners on Giudecca have a market. They grow produce, and sell it. It starts at 9:00, and is mostly sold out by 10:00. You'll be mixing it with the Giudecca grannies, and I believe it can be quite a contest! Palanca vap stop - and be prepared to be assertive - those Grannies are Venetians.

And thanks to the pointer towards the weekly farmers markets - maybe we'll see you there, Caroline.
Peter_S_Aus is offline  
Jul 30th, 2012, 03:54 AM
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Peter, I heard somewhere - maybe from Yvonne? - that the women's prison market on the Giudecca no longer takes place; but they have a shop up in Cannaregio which has fresh produce on Thursday mornings. We haven't looked for it yet, though - must remember to do so. Shame we missed the Giudecca one. I'll let you know if the Santa Marta market is worth doing!
caroline_edinburgh is offline  

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