Venice and Bologna October 2007 Trip Report
Nov 7th, 2007, 09:23 AM
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Venice and Bologna October 2007 Trip Report
First of all, thanks to everyone on the multiple boards I consulted while planning this trip. It continues to amaze me the length and breadth of info that is available on the Internet, all there for the asking. A special thanks to Julie Hurst whose detailed and extremely accurate account of how the get from the Venice airport to the hotel via bus and vaporetto saved a great deal of jet-lagged anxiety for my husband and myself. It made the beginning of our trip so much more enjoyable than it would have been otherwise. Grazie!
This was our fifth trip to Italy, a country we love for its history, beauty, the friendly, relaxed attitude of its amazing people and, of course, the food. This time, rather than rent a car, we decided to use the train system since cities, rather than countryside, was our focus. We began with 5 days in Venice at Ca’ Angeli in San Polo on the Grand Canal about 5 minutes from the Rialto bridge and market. It was a great neighborhood location, convenient to the sights (as most if not all of Venice is) with a wonderfully kind and helpful staff. They even gave us cookies when we checked out. It was more expensive than we usually pay (about 250E per night), especially with the horrible exchange rate, but everything in Venice is more expensive than many other places, and we thoroughly enjoyed it.
We really enjoy walking and Venice is ideal for this. The only time we used the vaporetto was to arrive and depart the city (we ultimately averaged 8 miles a day, a great way to combat the daily pasta, pizza and gelato). I used Frommer’s Venice Day by Day, which easily fit in my pocket, to guide us through the neighborhoods on daily walking tours, seeing the major and minor sights within those areas along the way. The most difficult thing was timing since various churches and museums were apt to close for a 2 to 3 hour lunch break. We used the Venice chorus pass to see many of the churches and pre booked the Secret Itinerary Tour of the Doge’s Palace http://www.tickitaly.com/tickets/iti...es-tickets.php) and St. Mark’s Basilica (http://www.alata.it/eng/BOOKING/sanmarco.asp) on line before leaving home, a great idea since even during the third week in October the lines were very long. We also pre booked a Vivaldi concert in the church near the Rialto (http://www.classictic.com) . Don’t miss the Scuola Grande di San Rocco or the Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni, Ca’ Rezzonico or Santa Maria dei Miracoli if you enjoy art and architecture.
Since there is no city on earth more identified with the sea than Venice, we focused on seafood for meals. We are a bit of a hard sell since we live close to one of the biggest fishing ports in the USA and are very accustomed to fresh fish. I wish I could wax poetic about the food the way some people on the Internet do, but I don’t have the talent, so I’ll just report our impressions. The very best meal we had in Venice was at Alle Testiere, a small, 9 or 10 table restaurant on Calle del Mondo Novo in Castello. The fish was very fresh, prepared in interesting and sometimes unexpected ways and the service was patient (even my travel Italian is pretty bad) and expert. My only regret was this was the night of our concert and had to rush a bit to make it in time. We had a nice lunch at Osteria da Carla, a very small place near Piazza San Marco, and great pizza outdoors at Il Refolo on our first day. We would also recommend Antiche Carampane and Al Fontego dei Pescatori. Our second best meal was at Vini di Gigio (highly recommended) and the only flop of the entire two weeks was Trattoria Sempione – bad food, bad service and way, way too expensive for the product. The best gelato? Il Doge in Dosoduro.
One small shopping tip: for wonderful Murano bead jewelry (earrings, necklaces, etc.) at fair prices, try Rialto 79 on the Rialto bridge.
After 5 days in Venice we traveled by train about 90 minutes to Bologna. We chose Bologna because it is the center of the great food of Emilia-Romagna, it is a medieval university town with few tourists, and it is central to the other cities we planned to visit on this trip. We stayed at Il Convento dei Fiores di Seta (http://www.silkflowersnunnery.com) , a small 10 room hotel created 5 years ago by a wonderful couple who salvaged an old convent that had been most recently used as a garage. It was about a 10 minute walk to the Piazza Maggiore, the old city center, and about a 40 minute walk to the train station. I cannot say enough about Carolina our hostess. She knew everything about Bologna and the surrounding area, most especially the restaurants. I brought with me a list of restaurant possibilities garnered from reading travel boards on the internet and she looked down the long column saying “Yes, no, not Bolognese cuisine, no, no, yes”. We had some wonderful meals, arranged without any effort on our part, thanks to her kind and enthusiastic help. In addition, the hotel, along with other hotels in the city, offers 2 free 2 hour walking tours of the city on the weekend. Our nightly rate was 143E, making the 9 day stay in Bologna about as expensive as the 5 days in Venice.
Bologna has lots to see and do, without a T-shirt in sight (we really had to work hard for our last two grandchildren). It is famous for its porticos, miles and miles of picturesque covered walk ways, great when it is raining. Also great shopping. We spent one afternoon at pasta camp at a school for pasta making called La Vecchia Scuola. The master is the mother who does the professional classes, and her daughter Stefania, who speaks excellent English and has been making pasta since she was 3 years old, taught the “tourist” class. We usually do some type of cooking class when we are in Europe (my husband in the family chef and in exchange for allowing himself to be dragged to every church and museum in sight, we cook for a day) and we were really surprised and pleased by the relatively inexpensive cost of taking the class as well value for the money. We started with a 3 course pasta lunch, wine included, followed by 4 hours of learning to make the dough, roll it correctly and fashion it into shapes and stuffed pasta such as tortellini. The 4 hours of class time included, of course, a break for a fantastic mascapone based dessert and more wine. We also each received an apron and ball cap with the school name on it. The entire afternoon cost 70E each. I have looked at half day courses that did not include as much for over $1000 (didn’t take them I’m afraid). It was a fun and informative way to spend the afternoon, and Stefania was wonderful. Can’t wait to try what we have learned.
We went to a number of fine restaurants in Bologna, the best of which was Franco Rossi – elegant, old world style service (I can’t for the life of me remember the last time I was handed a “ladies menu” without the prices), truly excellent food (despite at least one post to the contrary on the web) and a wonderfully romantic atmosphere. We would return in a half of a heart beat. Second best was a totally opposite experience. Antica Osteria Romagnola was much more a trattoria than a fine restaurant, but again, the food was outstanding and the service warm and welcoming. We had the best pasta with clam sauce there of the entire trip, Venice included. Perhaps the best of my life. Also recommended: Al Pappagallo, Battibecco, Drogheria della Rosa, and Cesarina.
A short word on gelato, an obsession of mine. I have always believed the best ice cream in the world was in Florence. I was wrong. It’s Bologna. Il Gelataurio and GROM were truly outstanding, but the hands down winner, for creaminess and intensity of flavor was La Sorbetteria Castiglione on Calle Castiglione, as fate would have it, right around the corner from our hotel! It is so difficult to experience such a great pleasure knowing the odds are not with you that you will ever experience it again. Oh well…
We used the train system to visit Parma, Modena, Ferrrara and Ravenna and never paid more than 7E or about $11 one way, a real bargain when you consider the price of renting, fueling and parking a car. All the stations were an easy walk into town and the trains were very frequent. Our favorite destination was Ravenna, the farthest from Bologna, about 90 minutes. The mosaics were absolutely mind blowing, over 1500 years old and every bit as vibrantly colored and moving as the day they were made. I cannot say enough about them. Even my husband will talk about the experience to anyone who will listen. Don’t miss Ravenna if you are in the area.
Modena was a bit of a bust because, although it rained about 30% of this trip, this was the one day we really got soaked. Also the cathedral, one I was really looking forward to seeing, was covered in scaffolding and none of the façade was visible. This being said, our trip to Modena included arguably the most memorable experience of the trip – lunch at Hosteria Giusti, often described by celebrity chefs as the best restaurant in Italy. We are not about to argue with them. Up there with the White Barn Inn in Maine and Carre’ des Feuillants in Paris, this was one of the 3 best meals of our lives. We were cold, wet and hungry when we arrived at Salumeria Giusti about 45 minutes before our reservation (it is essential to make reservations as much in advance as possible), just to get out of the weather and buy some balsamic vinegar. After making our purchases we informed them that we were also there for lunch, and despite the fact that is was well before 1:00, we were cheerfully ushered back through the store into a room with 4 tables that looked every bit like the family’s private dining room. Our host was very friendly, talkative and informative, showing us the restaurant’s write up in Mario Batali’s cook book when we mentioned his name. As in all the places we visited in Italy, they were very gracious regarding splitting orders for Americans just not accustomed to eating 3 courses at lunch (uno for due), but they also offered half portions so each of us could have something different for each course if we chose to. Wonderful sausage and proscuitto appetizer, tortellini in brodo straight from heaven, pasta with duck ragu. For the secundi, I had cotechino, fried sausage with a sweetish custardy sauce. I am not a huge sausage fan, but I ordered it because it was the house specialty, and I’ll try almost anything once, and it was literally phenomenal. My husband had veal cheeks. I know it sounds “unusual” but this generous portion of slowly cooked beef in a wonderful gravy was beyond belief. What a wonderful experience. We made it a point to meet the ladies of the family who run the kitchen – we just couldn’t leave without giving our compliments. If you are in Modena, run, don’t walk, to Hosteria and Salumeria Giusti.
My Bologna shopping tip: for wonderful cheeses, vacuum packed for home, La Baita Formaggi, Via Pescherie Vecchie 3A
I f anyone has any further questions, I would be happy to attempt an answer, at least while the memory is still fresh! Joanne
This was our fifth trip to Italy, a country we love for its history, beauty, the friendly, relaxed attitude of its amazing people and, of course, the food. This time, rather than rent a car, we decided to use the train system since cities, rather than countryside, was our focus. We began with 5 days in Venice at Ca’ Angeli in San Polo on the Grand Canal about 5 minutes from the Rialto bridge and market. It was a great neighborhood location, convenient to the sights (as most if not all of Venice is) with a wonderfully kind and helpful staff. They even gave us cookies when we checked out. It was more expensive than we usually pay (about 250E per night), especially with the horrible exchange rate, but everything in Venice is more expensive than many other places, and we thoroughly enjoyed it.
We really enjoy walking and Venice is ideal for this. The only time we used the vaporetto was to arrive and depart the city (we ultimately averaged 8 miles a day, a great way to combat the daily pasta, pizza and gelato). I used Frommer’s Venice Day by Day, which easily fit in my pocket, to guide us through the neighborhoods on daily walking tours, seeing the major and minor sights within those areas along the way. The most difficult thing was timing since various churches and museums were apt to close for a 2 to 3 hour lunch break. We used the Venice chorus pass to see many of the churches and pre booked the Secret Itinerary Tour of the Doge’s Palace http://www.tickitaly.com/tickets/iti...es-tickets.php) and St. Mark’s Basilica (http://www.alata.it/eng/BOOKING/sanmarco.asp) on line before leaving home, a great idea since even during the third week in October the lines were very long. We also pre booked a Vivaldi concert in the church near the Rialto (http://www.classictic.com) . Don’t miss the Scuola Grande di San Rocco or the Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni, Ca’ Rezzonico or Santa Maria dei Miracoli if you enjoy art and architecture.
Since there is no city on earth more identified with the sea than Venice, we focused on seafood for meals. We are a bit of a hard sell since we live close to one of the biggest fishing ports in the USA and are very accustomed to fresh fish. I wish I could wax poetic about the food the way some people on the Internet do, but I don’t have the talent, so I’ll just report our impressions. The very best meal we had in Venice was at Alle Testiere, a small, 9 or 10 table restaurant on Calle del Mondo Novo in Castello. The fish was very fresh, prepared in interesting and sometimes unexpected ways and the service was patient (even my travel Italian is pretty bad) and expert. My only regret was this was the night of our concert and had to rush a bit to make it in time. We had a nice lunch at Osteria da Carla, a very small place near Piazza San Marco, and great pizza outdoors at Il Refolo on our first day. We would also recommend Antiche Carampane and Al Fontego dei Pescatori. Our second best meal was at Vini di Gigio (highly recommended) and the only flop of the entire two weeks was Trattoria Sempione – bad food, bad service and way, way too expensive for the product. The best gelato? Il Doge in Dosoduro.
One small shopping tip: for wonderful Murano bead jewelry (earrings, necklaces, etc.) at fair prices, try Rialto 79 on the Rialto bridge.
After 5 days in Venice we traveled by train about 90 minutes to Bologna. We chose Bologna because it is the center of the great food of Emilia-Romagna, it is a medieval university town with few tourists, and it is central to the other cities we planned to visit on this trip. We stayed at Il Convento dei Fiores di Seta (http://www.silkflowersnunnery.com) , a small 10 room hotel created 5 years ago by a wonderful couple who salvaged an old convent that had been most recently used as a garage. It was about a 10 minute walk to the Piazza Maggiore, the old city center, and about a 40 minute walk to the train station. I cannot say enough about Carolina our hostess. She knew everything about Bologna and the surrounding area, most especially the restaurants. I brought with me a list of restaurant possibilities garnered from reading travel boards on the internet and she looked down the long column saying “Yes, no, not Bolognese cuisine, no, no, yes”. We had some wonderful meals, arranged without any effort on our part, thanks to her kind and enthusiastic help. In addition, the hotel, along with other hotels in the city, offers 2 free 2 hour walking tours of the city on the weekend. Our nightly rate was 143E, making the 9 day stay in Bologna about as expensive as the 5 days in Venice.
Bologna has lots to see and do, without a T-shirt in sight (we really had to work hard for our last two grandchildren). It is famous for its porticos, miles and miles of picturesque covered walk ways, great when it is raining. Also great shopping. We spent one afternoon at pasta camp at a school for pasta making called La Vecchia Scuola. The master is the mother who does the professional classes, and her daughter Stefania, who speaks excellent English and has been making pasta since she was 3 years old, taught the “tourist” class. We usually do some type of cooking class when we are in Europe (my husband in the family chef and in exchange for allowing himself to be dragged to every church and museum in sight, we cook for a day) and we were really surprised and pleased by the relatively inexpensive cost of taking the class as well value for the money. We started with a 3 course pasta lunch, wine included, followed by 4 hours of learning to make the dough, roll it correctly and fashion it into shapes and stuffed pasta such as tortellini. The 4 hours of class time included, of course, a break for a fantastic mascapone based dessert and more wine. We also each received an apron and ball cap with the school name on it. The entire afternoon cost 70E each. I have looked at half day courses that did not include as much for over $1000 (didn’t take them I’m afraid). It was a fun and informative way to spend the afternoon, and Stefania was wonderful. Can’t wait to try what we have learned.
We went to a number of fine restaurants in Bologna, the best of which was Franco Rossi – elegant, old world style service (I can’t for the life of me remember the last time I was handed a “ladies menu” without the prices), truly excellent food (despite at least one post to the contrary on the web) and a wonderfully romantic atmosphere. We would return in a half of a heart beat. Second best was a totally opposite experience. Antica Osteria Romagnola was much more a trattoria than a fine restaurant, but again, the food was outstanding and the service warm and welcoming. We had the best pasta with clam sauce there of the entire trip, Venice included. Perhaps the best of my life. Also recommended: Al Pappagallo, Battibecco, Drogheria della Rosa, and Cesarina.
A short word on gelato, an obsession of mine. I have always believed the best ice cream in the world was in Florence. I was wrong. It’s Bologna. Il Gelataurio and GROM were truly outstanding, but the hands down winner, for creaminess and intensity of flavor was La Sorbetteria Castiglione on Calle Castiglione, as fate would have it, right around the corner from our hotel! It is so difficult to experience such a great pleasure knowing the odds are not with you that you will ever experience it again. Oh well…
We used the train system to visit Parma, Modena, Ferrrara and Ravenna and never paid more than 7E or about $11 one way, a real bargain when you consider the price of renting, fueling and parking a car. All the stations were an easy walk into town and the trains were very frequent. Our favorite destination was Ravenna, the farthest from Bologna, about 90 minutes. The mosaics were absolutely mind blowing, over 1500 years old and every bit as vibrantly colored and moving as the day they were made. I cannot say enough about them. Even my husband will talk about the experience to anyone who will listen. Don’t miss Ravenna if you are in the area.
Modena was a bit of a bust because, although it rained about 30% of this trip, this was the one day we really got soaked. Also the cathedral, one I was really looking forward to seeing, was covered in scaffolding and none of the façade was visible. This being said, our trip to Modena included arguably the most memorable experience of the trip – lunch at Hosteria Giusti, often described by celebrity chefs as the best restaurant in Italy. We are not about to argue with them. Up there with the White Barn Inn in Maine and Carre’ des Feuillants in Paris, this was one of the 3 best meals of our lives. We were cold, wet and hungry when we arrived at Salumeria Giusti about 45 minutes before our reservation (it is essential to make reservations as much in advance as possible), just to get out of the weather and buy some balsamic vinegar. After making our purchases we informed them that we were also there for lunch, and despite the fact that is was well before 1:00, we were cheerfully ushered back through the store into a room with 4 tables that looked every bit like the family’s private dining room. Our host was very friendly, talkative and informative, showing us the restaurant’s write up in Mario Batali’s cook book when we mentioned his name. As in all the places we visited in Italy, they were very gracious regarding splitting orders for Americans just not accustomed to eating 3 courses at lunch (uno for due), but they also offered half portions so each of us could have something different for each course if we chose to. Wonderful sausage and proscuitto appetizer, tortellini in brodo straight from heaven, pasta with duck ragu. For the secundi, I had cotechino, fried sausage with a sweetish custardy sauce. I am not a huge sausage fan, but I ordered it because it was the house specialty, and I’ll try almost anything once, and it was literally phenomenal. My husband had veal cheeks. I know it sounds “unusual” but this generous portion of slowly cooked beef in a wonderful gravy was beyond belief. What a wonderful experience. We made it a point to meet the ladies of the family who run the kitchen – we just couldn’t leave without giving our compliments. If you are in Modena, run, don’t walk, to Hosteria and Salumeria Giusti.
My Bologna shopping tip: for wonderful cheeses, vacuum packed for home, La Baita Formaggi, Via Pescherie Vecchie 3A
I f anyone has any further questions, I would be happy to attempt an answer, at least while the memory is still fresh! Joanne
Nov 7th, 2007, 10:03 AM
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Hi,
Our hostess Carolina at Il Convento made the reservations for us. We told her any day they had a spot, we would be there. They are planning a website this winter (www.hosteriagiusti.it), but I don't know if it will be possible to reserve from there. They are promising seasonal recipes, however!
Our hostess Carolina at Il Convento made the reservations for us. We told her any day they had a spot, we would be there. They are planning a website this winter (www.hosteriagiusti.it), but I don't know if it will be possible to reserve from there. They are promising seasonal recipes, however!
Nov 7th, 2007, 04:36 PM
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Hello joannecam, what a wonderful and interesting trip report! I too love San Palo, it is a lovely section to stay in. And beautiful Bologna! I am just afraid it now gets mentioned so much it will change as so much of Italy has. Thank you for sharing your trip and your meals. Of course that only makes me wish I were sitting in one of the restaurants in Bologna right now!
Nov 7th, 2007, 05:41 PM
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Hello Joannecam,
Thank you for sharing your detailed trip report. My friend & I are leaving Saturday for 10 days in Italy. We move around quite a bit, and spend our last & only night in Bologna before a very (6:30am) early flight home (DFW). Would you recommend a restaurant for our last night in Italy? Not too slow...since we have an early morning...and after eating our way through Tuscany, including Florence, I'd welcome your thoughts...
Thanks, in advance, for your recommendation.
Thank you for sharing your detailed trip report. My friend & I are leaving Saturday for 10 days in Italy. We move around quite a bit, and spend our last & only night in Bologna before a very (6:30am) early flight home (DFW). Would you recommend a restaurant for our last night in Italy? Not too slow...since we have an early morning...and after eating our way through Tuscany, including Florence, I'd welcome your thoughts...
Thanks, in advance, for your recommendation.
Nov 7th, 2007, 06:55 PM
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It is apparently the custom in Bologna not to go to dinner before 8:30pm, but unlike Madrid, the restaurants do open by 7 or so. You just may be alone. Our two best meals were Franco Rossi for elegant fine dining or Antica Osteria Romagnola for more rustic fare. The food is Bologna is supposed to be the best of Italy (at least according to the Bolognese) and you will be in a unique postition, at the end of your trip, to put them to the test. Don't miss the ice cream. Its the best. And remember, you can always sleep on the plane.
Nov 7th, 2007, 08:25 PM
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Loved your trip report. We were in Venice and Bologna in October, as well! We were in Bologna for only 1 1/2 days, but also stayed with much pleasure at the Convento. And we also ate at Drogheria della Rossa (at Caroline's suggestion); it was one of the favorite meals of our trip! I loved hearing about the pasta camp - we'll have to try it some day.
Nov 8th, 2007, 01:24 AM
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Joanne-you brought up two osteria in Venice that don't get mentioned very much, but consistently get excellent reviews-Osteria da Carla in San Marco, but particularly, a place I have recommended before, Antiche Carampane, which is a bit hard to find, but well worth it once you do-they have a sign on their door "no tourist menus here" -they have a daily slate of specials, and a charming interior-here's the website, in case anyone is going to be in San Polo in Venice, it is located just by the ancient and famous prostitute hangout in the 1500's, the Ponte delle Tette-highly recommended:
http://www.antichecarampane.com/
http://www.antichecarampane.com/
Nov 8th, 2007, 03:21 AM
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Wow, I wonder if something has happened to Sempione as now I have read two reviews about it being way to expensive. We have been there 4 times and had always had excellent service and a good meal. In fact the service is what first grabbed us as they were right on the ball. We were just there in May and I did not find it to be expensive at all. There are many more expensive places listed here than Sempione unless something changed between now and May. If anyone has any info, I'd be interested to know as I have been giving rave reviews for this place.
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Nov 8th, 2007, 08:46 AM
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I was in Bologna in October and agree that it is a terrific place to vist. It is a great place to go if you've ever thought "I would love to experience Italy without the tourists." I had a wonderful meal at Diana a few blocks north of Piazza Maggiore - a traditonal, old fashioned kind of place. The market area east of the Piazza is great to explore if you are a foodie, and don't miss Tambourini - a great deli/food store. Stayed in the Hotel Roma next to Grom just south of the Piazza, a comfortable moderately priced hotel. Got very familiar with staff there, so they were favorite gelato but it was excellent everywhere. As to sites, add San Luca to the list, a beautiful church on a hill south of the center with a tremendous, easily reachable by bus, but be ready for an arcade-covered walk to the top; and San Stefano just east of the center. Loved Bologna's energy (due to the university), food, people, and relatively und-touristy feel.
Nov 8th, 2007, 09:56 AM
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I didn't want to get too long winded in my orignial report (how did I do?) but, yes, Bologna actually has a lot to see. In addition to the wonderful main square of Piazza Maggiore with the adjacent bronze of Neptune, the 7 church complex of San Stefano is well worth seeing for its history and as an amazing example of Byzantine era construction. Also, the church of San Domenico where St. Domenic, the founder of the Domenicans, is buried under the most beautifully sculpted alter I have ever seen on that small of a scale. We went because I am determined to see every work of Michelangelo before I die (he did 2 and maybe 3 of the 2-3 foot sculptures at age 17) but was blown away by the entire piece. A note to dorkforcemom: The Bologna airport is quite small. Our hostess at the hotel advised up that we really needed to be only one hour early for our 10:00am flight Saturday morning as there are no long lines. I'm a bit hyper about that stuff, so we left the hotel 2 hours before the flight arrived 90 minutes early, then spending about 45 minutes sitting around before boarding. She was correct, so that info may make your early morning flight a tiny bit better.
Nov 8th, 2007, 10:31 AM
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Thanks for the report - brought back memories of my trip to Bologna last November. Bologna is wonderful - a great location to day trip to various other cities/town and a terrific food scene. I thought the interior of the Modena cathedral wonderfully moody. And the mosaics around Ravenna are amazing.
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