Venice 2012

Old Apr 27th, 2012, 04:59 AM
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Venice 2012

We arose at passerine flatus to catch our flight in Manchester. At least it meant that we arrived in Venice around noon.
We took the Alilaguna blu line to Arsenale where we were to meet the agent for the flat we were renting.
I think that it is essential to approach Venice by water. Taxis are from 80 to 100 Euros, which is a bit ridiculous unless you are sharing. The Alilaguna fare was 25 Euros return. It takes just over an hour, but it’s a pleasant journey and a nice introduction to the city and some of the other islands.
The ticket office is fairly obvious. There is a shuttle bus to the boats, but it’s about a ten minute walk which is fine if you haven’t a lot of luggage.
We were told that the man who was meeting us had very little English, but I phoned him to tell him when we would be arriving and I was able to understand him when he explained about the appliances in the flat. My Italian is adequate if people speak reasonably slowly.
It was good that we were met, because the flat was in a maze of little calle behind the Arsenale and we would never have found it. The route also included just one small bridge which was a blessing.
The area was ideal. San Marco was within easy walking distance and we were close to Via Garibaldi which is quite a good shopping street with a little supermarket. Our noses also told us the way to a nice bakery.
Quite close by in a little campo not far away from the flat were shops like a little butcher’s shop, a grocer’s and, alas, a pasticceria. I’m sure that the extra weight I have accumulated is the fault of that shop.
The flat was comfortable and well equipped, but we were very puzzled by Venetian notions of security. There was a security gate into the little courtyard where the flat was. The windows were barred and shuttered and the complicated lock might have seemed slightly OTT to the Bank of England. Meanwhile, on the canal outside, boats were tied up with their out board motors attached.
We settled in and then went to have lunch in a small restaurant right by the Arsenale. It specialised in fish, and although not the best place we ate, it was quite pleasant.
We settled into a routine where we had a light breakfast, a nice long full Italian slow lunch and just a filled roll or some pasta for the evening meal,
By the way, a perpetual topic on this forum is dress and blending in. It may have been the time of year, but everyone was dressed perfectly normally. It was obvious that there were many tourists because they were the lost looking souls consulting maps. However, you honestly couldn’t tell nationalities until you heard them speak. For some reason, I am usually assumed to be French unless I am heard speaking English. I was actually asked for directions in Padua, so I must also look a bit like an Italian little old lady.
To be continued
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Old Apr 27th, 2012, 05:53 AM
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The Via Garibaldi is a great street, far less crowded that San Marco and the surrounding area. Take it to the end and walk over the little bridge to the Isola de S. Pietro for a real out of the way treat .
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Old Apr 27th, 2012, 06:00 AM
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Do you have a link for the flat? Can't wait for more.
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Old Apr 27th, 2012, 08:12 AM
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Yes. we walked to Isola de S. Pietro. It is a working part of Venice with shipyards etc. and with hardly any tourists.
The link to the flat is http://tinyurl.com/crrjegj
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Old Apr 27th, 2012, 03:22 PM
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Brilliant, so far. I am one of those who like you is always asked for directions. I have a kindly face, twinkling eye, and a bald head, so I am clearly safe.
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Old Apr 28th, 2012, 12:41 AM
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We only got really lost once this trip.
Suddenly an African loaded with "designer" handbags appeared.
"Follow him", I said, because I reckoned that he would be going where there were lots of tourists. Right enough, he led up to San Marco.
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Old Apr 28th, 2012, 01:36 AM
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Talking of bag sellers, there wasn't a dancing Mickey to be seen anywhere. They all seemed to be selling squishy things. They threw them onto the ground where they looked like a liquid and then gradually regained their shape. Some people were actually buying them.
In the early evening, we would often sit with a spritz aperol and some nibbles not far from the Arsenale vaporetto stop.
There is a bridge nearby and every so often a stream of vendors would flow down over the crown of the bridge followed by a sight of police caps appearing.
Of course, after a decent interval, back they would go with their bags, sun-glasses and squishy things
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Old Apr 28th, 2012, 01:40 AM
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I am a great fan of Salley Vickers “Miss Garnet’s Angel” and so was determined to visit the Chiesa dell’Angelo Raffaele with the Guardi paintings of Tobias and the Angel. On the way, we visited the Chiesa di San Sabastian which has some stunning Veroneses. Chiesa dell’Angelo Raffaele is very charming and old and the Guardis are charming. You have to pay a euro to light them up.
We ate at the Osteria 1518 which is quite small and claims to serve authentic Venetian food. I ordered Fegato alla Veneziana for my main course.
Every other time I have eaten this, it has come with a slab of firm polenta, but this came with slices of firm polenta. This came with polenta roughly of the consistency of soft mashed potato. I asked the owner which was the authentic recipe and she replied firmly that it had to be soft.
I now qualify for a priority seat on the vaporetto and noticed that the Venetians were very good about giving up their seats to the old, pregnant and disabled.
Old age has few advantages, so grab 'em when you can ;-)
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Old Apr 28th, 2012, 01:43 AM
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Whoops, I got into a mess with my polenta. At this place it came with the soft kind.
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Old Apr 28th, 2012, 02:51 AM
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We remembered seeing a magnificent view of the Lagoon from Zattere. Could we find it, no we wouldn't. I distinctly remember crossing a bridge, and there it was.
We gave up and stumbled upon the Trattoria all'Antica Mola, a nice little place with a garden at the back. There was a very old waiter, the kind Dickens described. The food wasn't brilliant but it was quite acceptable.
The only time we ate outside was at the Ristorante da' Raffaele, near San Marco. It's right by a canal and you can see gondolas passing by, some of them with singers and musicians. Their food is quite good. I think that in Venice, it is always a good idea to go for fish.
It seems to be usual for tourists to be offered outside tables. One place we went to, only seemed to have a table d'hote menu inside. We saw workmen inside tucking in, so followed their example.
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Old Apr 28th, 2012, 03:52 AM
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We spent one day in Burano. All the buildings are very brightly coloured, so that they can be seen easily from the sea?
It's much further North, but Tobermory on Mull is rather similar in that respect.

We crossed the bridge to Mazzorbo for lunch at the Trattoria alla Maddalena. The food is still good but the short menu is now multi-lingual. I think that the place is becoming well known. There was a largish party of French people when we were there.
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Old Apr 28th, 2012, 04:21 AM
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Our last island hop was to Murano where we treated ourselves to a nice chunky vase with a gold rim. While it was being made baggage-handler proof, we were taken upstairs where most stuff started at around 1000 euros. Our limit is about half of that!
We had lunch at Busa alla Torre. The seafood there is very good. The owner is a pleasant large gentleman with a beard.
Our next to last day happened to be Canon Chasuble's birthday, so we went to the Nuovo Galeon in the Via Garibaldi.
We have been there before and enjoy their food very much. The salad with prawns and baby artichokes was specially good.
On our departure, I was chosen to have my bag searched and to be patted down. I think that they have to choose a token little old lady, so that they can't be accused of profiling.
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Old Apr 28th, 2012, 04:38 AM
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Forgot to mention that we visited the Frari which has some magnificent works of art including Titian's Assumption of the Virgin. We also almost stumbled upon the Scuola Grande di San Rocco. There are wonderful wood carvings and the place is full of works by Tintoretto including a very big crucifixion.
That's the lot. I must sort out the mountains of mail that has piled up.
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Old Apr 28th, 2012, 04:43 AM
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Oh, dear, I would forget my head if it weren't screwed on.
We made a short train trip to Padua to see the Giottos in the Scrovegni chapel. Unfortunately, the rain was coming down in stair-rods but the chapel was well worth the effort. You sit in a decontamination room for fifteen minutes and then you get fifteen minutes in the chapel itself. The pictures are vivid and beautiful
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Old Apr 28th, 2012, 04:54 AM
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Enjoyed this and thanks for the flat info. I love the idea of a private courtyard.
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Old Apr 28th, 2012, 05:01 AM
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Yes, the courtyard was nice and it was fun to see all the washing lines on pulleys between the buildings around.
It tended to rain in the evening and you could see the housewives frantically reeling in their laundry.
The aqua alta siren only went off once and it was only followed by three beeps. I think that means that the water is not predicted to be very high.
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