Valladolid - Tordesillas - Zamora
Oct 13th, 2007, 07:42 AM
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Valladolid - Tordesillas - Zamora
I'm off to Castilla-Leon soon for a mini-driving tour (got a good 3-day B&B deal on Paradors).
I've read plenty about these cities, and I've even been to Valladolid before, very briefly. But not much comes up when I look for personal reports.
Suggestions please for places (especially those I won't have seen in the guide books) you particularly liked.
We like
Tucked away villages.
Restaurants specialising in Castillian food (especially lots of roast meat).
Backstreet bars with good jamon and queso and local wine.
Ventas in the middle of nowhere full of noisy families and grannies on a Sunday.
Village bars with a comedor at the back for a good cheap simple meal.
Weird museums that don't make it into the guide books.
Anything unusual.
In case anyone is puzzled about a parador at Valladolid ! We are staying in Valladolid in a hotel (Zenit Imperial) not a non-existent parador. The third parador is Salamanca, which I didn't mention because I feel I know Salamanca quite well - but anything out of the usual that people have found there ... please let me know.
BTW. In Salamance, I recommed the Art Deco museum - or was it Art Nouveau ? It was a long time ago ! And the Art Nouveau bar on the Plaza Mayor, with draft vermut: Just like being in Paris - except for the din that Spanish people make when they are having a good time, to which I can't wait to contribute.
I've read plenty about these cities, and I've even been to Valladolid before, very briefly. But not much comes up when I look for personal reports.
Suggestions please for places (especially those I won't have seen in the guide books) you particularly liked.
We like
Tucked away villages.
Restaurants specialising in Castillian food (especially lots of roast meat).
Backstreet bars with good jamon and queso and local wine.
Ventas in the middle of nowhere full of noisy families and grannies on a Sunday.
Village bars with a comedor at the back for a good cheap simple meal.
Weird museums that don't make it into the guide books.
Anything unusual.
In case anyone is puzzled about a parador at Valladolid ! We are staying in Valladolid in a hotel (Zenit Imperial) not a non-existent parador. The third parador is Salamanca, which I didn't mention because I feel I know Salamanca quite well - but anything out of the usual that people have found there ... please let me know.
BTW. In Salamance, I recommed the Art Deco museum - or was it Art Nouveau ? It was a long time ago ! And the Art Nouveau bar on the Plaza Mayor, with draft vermut: Just like being in Paris - except for the din that Spanish people make when they are having a good time, to which I can't wait to contribute.
Oct 15th, 2007, 06:04 AM
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Tips on Valladolid:
* A tiny bar called Alarcón at calle Alarcón (lamb ear in batter).
* Restaurante Molino Rojo at calle Gabilondo (roast meat).
Simancas: the castle is the location of the National Historic Archive.
Tordesillas: visit the Treaty of Tordesillas museum. The Treaty of Tordesillas (late 15th century) established one demarcation line running from pole to pole to divide the world between Spain and Portugal.
Toro: La Colegiata (church) is a must. You'll see a colourful arch covered for centuries and rediscovered and cleaned a few years ago. Impressive!
Tapas bar: La Reja at Plaza España.
* A tiny bar called Alarcón at calle Alarcón (lamb ear in batter).
* Restaurante Molino Rojo at calle Gabilondo (roast meat).
Simancas: the castle is the location of the National Historic Archive.
Tordesillas: visit the Treaty of Tordesillas museum. The Treaty of Tordesillas (late 15th century) established one demarcation line running from pole to pole to divide the world between Spain and Portugal.
Toro: La Colegiata (church) is a must. You'll see a colourful arch covered for centuries and rediscovered and cleaned a few years ago. Impressive!
Tapas bar: La Reja at Plaza España.
Oct 15th, 2007, 06:19 AM
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Thnaks for these. I was planning to go through Toro, so those recommendations are a great bonus.
I'm not a fussy eater - but I'm not sure about "ear". (I do eat pork scratchings, though, so who am I to be picky ?).
My favourite Spanish "surprise food" story is when the barman in the single bar on the dusty, hot, bright, plaza mayor of a muy tipico Andalusian tumbleweed-blowing village suddenly thrust a plate of little plucked birds (feet upwards) in front of us. He was most amused at our suitably gringo-like shudders and we immediately became best pals. Its easy to get free drinks in out of the way places - you could put it down to hospitality but I put it down to the low price of an afternoon's amusement listening to a stupid Ingles and his rubbish Spanish.
I'm not a fussy eater - but I'm not sure about "ear". (I do eat pork scratchings, though, so who am I to be picky ?).
My favourite Spanish "surprise food" story is when the barman in the single bar on the dusty, hot, bright, plaza mayor of a muy tipico Andalusian tumbleweed-blowing village suddenly thrust a plate of little plucked birds (feet upwards) in front of us. He was most amused at our suitably gringo-like shudders and we immediately became best pals. Its easy to get free drinks in out of the way places - you could put it down to hospitality but I put it down to the low price of an afternoon's amusement listening to a stupid Ingles and his rubbish Spanish.
Oct 15th, 2007, 07:43 AM
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Hi Chris, early this year we visited several places in Castilla Leon, including Valladolid, Lerma, Covarrubias, Tordesillas,Toro , Zamora (not this year but I have been there some years ago) and also Burgos which is one of my favorites.
Of course I have a lot to talk about, but if you like to pose some questions I think it will be easier for me.
In vallodolid for instance we had a great meal on a holliday in the hotel you are planning to stay, I enjoyed staying in the Lassa Hotel, I liked the area in front of the park and an easy walk to most places. Are you staying in the Parador in Toresillas, it is a little out of town on the route to Salamanca, since Tordesillas is in a way less interesting that other nearby places it has an easy location to get in and out. In Tordesillas, for lunch we enjoyed the set priced menu of the Hotel Los Toreros in downtown. It might be a one star hotel, but ALL the locals favour it, the food is very good, and the set menu was only 11 euros, can you believe it? It is true.
Of course I have a lot to talk about, but if you like to pose some questions I think it will be easier for me.
In vallodolid for instance we had a great meal on a holliday in the hotel you are planning to stay, I enjoyed staying in the Lassa Hotel, I liked the area in front of the park and an easy walk to most places. Are you staying in the Parador in Toresillas, it is a little out of town on the route to Salamanca, since Tordesillas is in a way less interesting that other nearby places it has an easy location to get in and out. In Tordesillas, for lunch we enjoyed the set priced menu of the Hotel Los Toreros in downtown. It might be a one star hotel, but ALL the locals favour it, the food is very good, and the set menu was only 11 euros, can you believe it? It is true.
Oct 15th, 2007, 08:12 AM
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Thank you both for the two latest replies.
We are staying at the Parador in Tordesillas, and yes, I did notice it is a little way out of town. We thought we might spend some time in town when we arrived, then spend the evening in the Parador, and then next morning either set off straight for Zamora or (if we wanted to see more) go back into Tordesillas before setting off.
On the other hand, we don't mind a resonably long stroll, provided it is not along a straight dusty road with fast cars and nothing to look at (is that what the walk into Tordesillas is like?)
For evening meals after Valladolid, we are eating in the Paradors - the extra for the pre-booked half-board was reasonable, though not a huge reduction on the "pay when you get there" price.
So we are looking for evening meals in Valladolid, and lunches (probably fairly light, after the parador breakfasts) in the other places or on route. It is a pity the Zamora restaurant was not so good - I think we have enjoyed every meal we have had in paradors.
We don't usually stay in paradors (though we always have a long lunch if we pass one on a driving holiday). But this deal was very good - it's a three-night "ruta", for about 90 Euros per room per night (B&B). We were tempted by the seven-night ones, but resisted.
We are staying at the Parador in Tordesillas, and yes, I did notice it is a little way out of town. We thought we might spend some time in town when we arrived, then spend the evening in the Parador, and then next morning either set off straight for Zamora or (if we wanted to see more) go back into Tordesillas before setting off.
On the other hand, we don't mind a resonably long stroll, provided it is not along a straight dusty road with fast cars and nothing to look at (is that what the walk into Tordesillas is like?)
For evening meals after Valladolid, we are eating in the Paradors - the extra for the pre-booked half-board was reasonable, though not a huge reduction on the "pay when you get there" price.
So we are looking for evening meals in Valladolid, and lunches (probably fairly light, after the parador breakfasts) in the other places or on route. It is a pity the Zamora restaurant was not so good - I think we have enjoyed every meal we have had in paradors.
We don't usually stay in paradors (though we always have a long lunch if we pass one on a driving holiday). But this deal was very good - it's a three-night "ruta", for about 90 Euros per room per night (B&B). We were tempted by the seven-night ones, but resisted.
Oct 15th, 2007, 09:26 AM
#7
hi, Chris,
a real must in Valladolid is the museum of polychrome sculpture in the san gregorio college.
we thought that it gave us the best insight into the spanish psyche that we could possibly have. you'll need a strong stomach!
have a good trip,,
regards, ann
a real must in Valladolid is the museum of polychrome sculpture in the san gregorio college.
we thought that it gave us the best insight into the spanish psyche that we could possibly have. you'll need a strong stomach!
have a good trip,,
regards, ann
Oct 15th, 2007, 09:50 AM
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Yes I understand that paradores have great offers, we often take advantage of them, this year we also stayed in Salamanca, but stayed in the old city in Hotel Las Torres,better location than the parador. In regard to Tordesillas, this is what we did, we do not mind walking but as you guessed the walk is not ideal because there are no sidewalks being the Parador on a National route. We drove to a public parking-free- after crossing the bridge as you come into town from the Parador. Left the car there and then walked all over Tordesillas. This worked fine with us.We used to do it each time we went into town.
In Toro you cannot miss the magnificent Portico de la Gloria in the Colegiata Church. It is funny because being a Portico, the way to access to it is paying a 1 euro ticket in the Sacritistia, so they take out by the Portico and then you can see it from the other side. We ate well and visited a winery.
Of course in Tordesillas you should not miss the Convent of Santa Clara.
In this trip we took advantage of a wonderful offer of Hoteles Sol Melia, and there are serveral very good ones in Castilla Leon, if you join MAS which is free
(www.solmelia.com) you pay for one buffet breakfast and get the second free. We found them as good as the Paradores' breakfasts and that is a lot to say.
There is a good sol Melia hotel in Zamora, another in Tordesillas next to the Hotel Lassa where we stayed and the Hotel Fermin Gonzales in Burgos . We enjoyed a lot this hotel because of the excellence of its restaurant. We loved Burgos, really loved it.
Covarrubias was a day trip from Lerma, where we stayed in the Parador. Also from Lerma we went to the
Monastery of Santo Domingo de Silos, a highlight in our trip. We are Catholics but no matter what religion I believe it is awesome to listen to the Gregorian chanted mass. Also in the Monastery they have a jewel, that is, the XI-XII century Cloister.
There are so many amazing places in the area.
Covarrubias is a must in a way, to eat there I highly recommend the restaurant in an old inn where Garcia Lorca used to stay, at least the photos are there, Restaurante de Galo, www.degalo.com.
We visited Medina del Campo from Tordesillas
enjoyed the whole town, a very nice museum is the
Museo de las Ferias, installed in an old church from the XVI century. We had a great lunch , but I do not remember now the name of the place,I could find it out for you. Of course at the edge of town the Castle de la Mota is kind of a must .
As you know there are many castles in the area.
Near Covarubias we visited the old monastery of
San Pedro de la Arlanza. It is in the process of being restored but nevertheless empty and all we thought it was worth the visit. Good luck. I envy you, so much to see, in most places the food is very good.
In Toro you cannot miss the magnificent Portico de la Gloria in the Colegiata Church. It is funny because being a Portico, the way to access to it is paying a 1 euro ticket in the Sacritistia, so they take out by the Portico and then you can see it from the other side. We ate well and visited a winery.
Of course in Tordesillas you should not miss the Convent of Santa Clara.
In this trip we took advantage of a wonderful offer of Hoteles Sol Melia, and there are serveral very good ones in Castilla Leon, if you join MAS which is free
(www.solmelia.com) you pay for one buffet breakfast and get the second free. We found them as good as the Paradores' breakfasts and that is a lot to say.
There is a good sol Melia hotel in Zamora, another in Tordesillas next to the Hotel Lassa where we stayed and the Hotel Fermin Gonzales in Burgos . We enjoyed a lot this hotel because of the excellence of its restaurant. We loved Burgos, really loved it.
Covarrubias was a day trip from Lerma, where we stayed in the Parador. Also from Lerma we went to the
Monastery of Santo Domingo de Silos, a highlight in our trip. We are Catholics but no matter what religion I believe it is awesome to listen to the Gregorian chanted mass. Also in the Monastery they have a jewel, that is, the XI-XII century Cloister.
There are so many amazing places in the area.
Covarrubias is a must in a way, to eat there I highly recommend the restaurant in an old inn where Garcia Lorca used to stay, at least the photos are there, Restaurante de Galo, www.degalo.com.
We visited Medina del Campo from Tordesillas
enjoyed the whole town, a very nice museum is the
Museo de las Ferias, installed in an old church from the XVI century. We had a great lunch , but I do not remember now the name of the place,I could find it out for you. Of course at the edge of town the Castle de la Mota is kind of a must .
As you know there are many castles in the area.
Near Covarubias we visited the old monastery of
San Pedro de la Arlanza. It is in the process of being restored but nevertheless empty and all we thought it was worth the visit. Good luck. I envy you, so much to see, in most places the food is very good.
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