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wrenwood Jul 17th, 2010 06:06 AM

Val Fex or Val Roseg ?
Is either the Val Fex or Val Roseg prettier?

Are these half days or full days? Do one, do both?


Ingo Jul 17th, 2010 08:34 AM

It really depends on your planned activities in those valleys.

You can take the horse-drawn carriages from Sils to Hotel Fex and walk back which would take up a half day. A half day is also fine for horse-drawn carriage from Pontresina train station to Hotel Roseg (, picking something yummy from their legendary dessert buffet on the terrace and walking back (or renting a bike for the ride back or taking the horse-drawn carriage again back).

However, if you plan to do some hiking in those valleys then a full day is required. E.g cable car up to Furtschellas (from Sils), hiking via Marmore to Hotel Fex ( and hiking back to Sils (with stop at the nice fresco decorated chapel in Fex-Cresta plus having a blueberry cake with cappuccino in the restaurant of Pension Fex Crasta (

Or in the Roseg valley you could hike from Hotel Roseggletscher farther up (not much elevation difference) to the glacier lake, spend some time there and walk back. Or hike up to the Tschierva mountain hut (quite steep and long) and back. Or you start at Piz Corvatsch middle station Murtel (cable car from Silvaplana-Surlej), hike to Fuorcla Surlej (gorgeous views) and from there down to Hotel Roseggletscher, stepping into Roseg valley from above, so to speak. Advantage are the incredible views of the Bernina massif/glaciers from Fuorcla Surlej.

I personally find the part between Pontresina train station and Hotel Roseggletscher quite boring, the beauty of the Roseg valley really starts from that hotel on while the Fex valley is beautiful and interesting from the beginning on to the end. The glaciers and mountains are more dramatic in the inner Roseg valley, though.

Tough decision, I suggest you do both ;-)


wrenwood Jul 17th, 2010 10:44 AM

Thank you Ingo. Again!!!

I found a wonderful map of the transport in the area, so places are starting to make more sense to me.

If we take the cable car from Silvaplana-Surlej, and then up to Murtel ~ the hike to Fuorcla Surlej, how long would you say that hike is? Steep? ....remember Ingo, we are 50-60 year old walkers/easy hikers :)

Once at Hotel Roseggletscher, if we take the carriage back to Pontresina, do we need a reservation for the carriage? I was under the impression one needed to make an advance reservation for the carriages (at least that's what Waldhaus told me about Fex Valley)

Hotel Roseggletscher's website says that one can reach them "with the horse (according to schedule or private)"

Ingo Jul 18th, 2010 01:56 AM

That's a good map you found. Congrats ;-)

The hike Murtel - Fuorcla Surlej is not problematic at all. Rugged area, good hiking boots highly recommend. First flat, at the end it gets a bit steeper but the trail winds up in serpentines. An hour if you take it slow I'd say. The bigger problem is IMO the hike down to Hotel Roseggletscher because that's an elevation difference of 2,500 ft. - hope your knees co-operate. It took me 2.5 hours to hike down I think. Remember, photo opportunities every other minute along the way ;-)

It is recommended to make a reservation for the carriage, yes. As far as I remember the last one (but that's really late) runs only if they have any reservations. On the other hand, I never had a problem to get on without reservations during the afternoon.

As for Waldhaus/Fex Valley: The hotel sits above Sils on a hill. The carriages start at the small square in town and when they pass the hotel they are already occupied. So, if you want to hop on a carriage at the hotel Waldhaus you need to make a reservation. But there are basically always carriages waiting for customers at the small square. Except in peak season, in the mornings when the tourists come from other towns etc. of course.


wrenwood Jul 18th, 2010 04:05 AM

Thanks again ~ glad I asked, as I don't think my knees would like that. :(

My initial thought concerning the Fex Valley was that we would take the cable car Sils~Furtschellas as you suggested on another thread, and hike from there via Marmore to Hotel Fex, walk back to Sils or take the horse-drawn carriage.

So........... is Furtschellas to Marmore to Hotel Fex well signposted? steep/easy? hiking boots or solid sneakers/footwear? half day or day?

I agree with others on another thread, you really should write a book!

Ingo Jul 18th, 2010 05:12 AM

LOL, thanks for the nice words, but I would need a publisher ... and there wouldn't be a lot of demand for such a book.

The hike Furtschellas to Marmore to Hotel Fex *is* well signposted. There are a bit of ups and downs to Marmore, not too exhausting/steep. From Marmore to Hotel Fex it is a descend of less than 1,000 ft. - and not steep, always along the slope of the mountain. Solid sneakers would do but I prefer hiking boots, of course. Horse drawn carriage ... well, I wouldn't make the reservation in advance. It's a nice, leisurely stroll back, either on the asphalt road (no public traffic, only the horse-drawn carriages and some farmers with special permit) passing a cute hamlet or in the shade of the trees on the opposite side of the valley. Definitely have a look into that chapel with frescos and remember there's the Pension/Restaurant Fex-Cresta with the blueberry cake (if you're not too late). As your destination would be the Waldhaus you must follow the asphalt road from the chapel onward. To the village Sils you'd take the trail to the right, passing the hamlet Fex-Platta and the gorge below the Waldhaus. All in all a full day. It is doable in a half day but that would mean to rush it (and to take the horse-drawn carriage back). Think about all these photo opps!


wrenwood Jul 21st, 2010 04:03 AM

Sounds perfect Ingo. Since we will be taking the cable car up, the rest of the hike sounds wonderful.

The trail towards Sils sound pretty, is it worth the detour? (as you know photo ops are VERY important!) Don't they both end up in the same place down by where you pick up the carriages?

Ingo Jul 21st, 2010 10:49 AM

The trail to Sils (yes, ends where the carriages are waiting, the small square) presents some photo opps, but if you're tired I wouldn't suggest you make the detour. It's a five minutes walk uphill (steep) from the square to the Waldhaus. Sort of backtracking.

A trip report is expected, I hope you know that! Even if it makes me green of envy ;-)

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