Unexpected Pleasures: Three and a half days in Bristol (trip report)
 

I had to visit Bristol recently. It is not a city which would normally loom large in holiday plans, but I was vaguely aware that it had some interesting history, and decided to capitalise on the journey by spending a few days there. I am glad I did, because although the city has a slightly faded air (notwithstanding recent facelifts) there is a lot for the visitor to appreciate.

With budget in mind, I stayed at the Travelodge in King Street, which was pretty basic but clean and convenient, situated in the historic centre, not far from the harbour. I arrived on a Thursday just ater lunch, and after checking in and leaving luggage, set ou to explore the city.

That afternoon I visited the Georgian House in Great George Street (free). This 18th century house belonged to a sugar merchant who was wealthy but not inclined to lavish living, and it gives a good impression of upper middle class life in the period, as well as some exhibits relating to the slave trade from which the owenr, and Bristol, regrettably benefitted. Some of the captions were a bit too tortuous in their evident desire to avoid offending anybody, but on teh whole this was an interesting place to see.

I then retraced my footsteps and visited the cathedral. Before the Reformation it was an Augustinian monastery church, and it has swooping Gothic architecture which is well worth seeing. I picked up some leaflets and maps in the tourist information office, and had a drink and snack in one of the bars lining the harbourside.

Friday was the best day. I started out heading for St Mary Redcliffe church. On the way I came across an unexpected diversion: the old Quaker burial ground, which incoprporates a medieval hermit's cave, in which the actual headstones have been stacked.

St Mary Redcliffe was the single most impressive sight in Bristol for me. It has some wondeful architecture in lovely golden stone, with a lot of quirky touches like Green Men and gargoyles, and several medieval tombs with statues of the deceased wincluding their pet dogs at their feet. There is also supposed to be the grave of the church cat, who arrived as a stray kitten attracted by organ practice in 1911, and stayed until his death 15 years later, but I was disappointed not be able to spot it. The graveyard does still have a bit of railway line sticking out at an angle where it was thrown from an explosion during World War II and retained as a memorial of how close it came to damaging the church. The church is well staffed by volunteers who hand out guide sheets.

I then made my way north into the shopping area. I had a quick look at Castle Mead, where the (long gone) castle was originally situated, and looked at the ruined church nearby, which was destroyed by a bomb in WWII.

I had lunch at Azuza, a cafe in the shopping area occupying an old almshouse, and wandered around the markets a bit. Then it was on to John Wesley's Chapel, which was interesting to me as I have a special interest in nonconformist history generally and Methodism in particular.

I then came south again and went back up the very steep Park Street to the city museum and art gallery. I spent my time there mainly in the Egyptian and local art galleries. There were some nice pictures of the area in the 18th and 19th centuries. After being thrown out at closing time, I popped into the Oxfam bookshop over the road, and then had an early supper at Ask (Italian chain). The food was delicious, and the service pleasant but not very efficient (the wrong dessert was brought, then the wrong party's bill).

The whole weekend had rather chancy weather, with overcast skies and occasional showers interspersed with sunny periods. Saturday had the worst weather, with quite a lot of rain. This was particularly unfortunate as I had elected to go on a walking tour. I'm not sure if it was really the best use of time, as although it did take us around the harbours and provide a fair bit of information about the area's history, not everything the guide said was accurate and I don't know how far I can rely on the things I don't know about. (For instance, talking about William Penn and the grant of Pennsylvania, he completely ignored the persecution aspects, merely saying Quakers were successful businessmen; and implied that John Wesley was only active in the West Country.)

We finished the tour back in the market. I did some shopping, then had a cheap lunch (a sandwich) somewhere on the way to my next destination, the Red Lodge. This was an Elizabethan house containing one absolutely gorgeous panelled room from the 1590s, a couple of less elaborate rooms from the same period, the remainder of the decor being mainly 18th century. There were also a few photographs of the house being used as a reformatory school for girls in the late 19th/early 20th century.

Although it was still raining, I braved the weather and when I got back to the harbourside took a round boat trip on the ferry, as the nicer boat trips were booked up that weekend.

Gosh, you saw more in 3 1/2 days than i did in 3 years as a student. St. Mary Redcliffe remains a mystery to me even now.

however, i can think of a few things you missed - the Clifton Tap [famous cider pub with 3 choices - dry, sweet or mix!] the SS great Britain and the clifton suspension bridge. also there is a park with one of those strange towers where you can watch without been seen. [can't remember what it's called - anyone?]

thanks for posting.

I haven't quite finished yet - will do tomorrow ;) Although I did miss out on the bridge (not very interested in engineering) and SS Great Britain (apart from seeing it from the outside on the boat trip).

I love Bristol and am glad to see somebody writing about it! (I was a student there too, Annhig).

It's a city with plenty of charm, despite the huge damage it suffered during WW2 (my father was at school there during the first part of the war and used to tell some interesting stories!).

I love Bristol! My boyfriend went to Uni there and I recently had a chance to go back and visit with him. I cannot recommend the Albion pub enough...the downstairs bar area is so cozy and warm and we had one of the best meals I've had in England at the upstairs gastropub. Love it!

we had one of the best meals I've had in England at the upstairs gastropub. >>

boohoo - I'm too old to remember gastropubs in Bristol.

and around the bit of the uni that I was at, there were no pubs - it was owned by the wills family who thought nothing of poisoning people with tobacco but drew the line a a spot of alcohol.

somehow, we managed never to let that get in our way.

Continued:

Saturday night I ate at the pub attached to the hotel, the Llandoger Trow. The surroundings were more interesting than the food which was very basic pub food, but the bulding itself was 17th century with some original wood carvings on the walls. On the walking tour the guide had told us that it was the place where Daniel Defoe met Alexander Selkirk, the shipwrecked sailor whose story inspired Robinson Crusoe.

On Sunday I planned to go out to Blaise Castle in Henbury, now a suburb of Bristol. This was more of a trek than I had anticipated. I had worked out which bus routes went there from the map handed out in the tourist info, and found the right stop. When the #40A (the best bet on the map) arrived, the driver said it went the long way around and I should wait for the #1. I duly got the #1, but the Blaise Castle stop was not labelled, so I missed it. Several stops later I realised, and the driver said I should cross the road and get the #40A going the other way. Unfortunately I hadn't appreciated it was a dual carriageway with no crossing place, and it took so long for a gap to appear in the traffic I almost decided would have to wait another half hour for the next #1, go to the end of the line, and then come back. I was very frustrated at this point, and rather wishing I'd stayed on the bus anyway ;)
ventuially, however, managed to get across the road, and by asking the driver several times manaed to get offf at the right place this time.

It really is badly signposted, though - very visitor-unfriendly. Not only can the bus stop name be seen from the bus, but the museum and castle are not signposted from the road at all. The only visible signpost was to Blaise Hamlet (National trust), so I went and had a look at that. The hamlet is a group of nine or so estate cottages built in 1811 for the owner of the Blaise Castle estate. They are enchantingly pretty, and although not open to the public, make a very charming detour.

After that I found a passer by to point me to Blaise Castle. The castle itself is an 18th century folly/fake which is mentioned in Northanger Abbey. There is also a house, also 18th century, called Blaise Castle House, where the estate owner actually lived, and which is now a social history museum. To be honest, the collection was a little disappointing, apart from the small but good costume collection - some lovely 19th century dresses in superb condition.

There is no nice tearoom attached, but there is a cheap cafe in the park, patronised mainly by families using the extensive children's play area there. I had lunch, then sought out the castle. This too hwas har to find - I could see it beyond the trees, and the map seemed to show the route, but I had extraordinary difficulty finding it. Possibly this was because I have a really bad sense of direction, and have been known to get lost going round a corner, but the odd signpost would have been very helpful.

The castle is only open occasionally, but I had planned my visit for a day it was open. There isn't much there, as although it was originally furnished and occupied, it was damaged by fire last century, and only restored in the 80s. It was still worth seeing.

After that, I walked into Henbury, and round the outside of the church, which was locked. Then I got the bus back into Bristol. It was after four by that time, and my energy had failed me, so I just went back to the hotel to pack.

I ate at an Italian restaurant near the hotel. There was a ice looking family-type place I liked teh look of, but which turned out to be closed for the owner's summer holiday, so I went to a chain-type place called Aqua instead, which was fine.

That was pretty much it. I enjoyed my time in Bristol, the odd frustrating bus trip aside. St Mary Redcliffe is one of the most impressive medieval churches I've seen anywhere, and will be my abiding memory.

I suppose I wouldn't put Bristol very high on my list of places to recommend to a first time visitor for the UK, but there's a lot to see - and things I missed as Annhig pointed out above. I was sorry the major Museum of Bristol was closed for refurbishment as that should be a big draw when it reopens (next year, I believe).

Thanks for your report, Nonconformist. Glad you persevered on your bus trip to Blaise Castle. I think I would have given up and returned to the city. Bristol sounds like a good place to visit.

sorry you had such a hard time getting to Blaise - though I never went there either. I do have a very vague recollection of the museum - or at least their bristol blue glass exhibition.

despite your efforts i am NOT overwhelmed with a desire to return. My loss I'm sure.

thanks for posting!