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ANUJ - what a lovely report! We are particular fans of Le Marche for similar reasons - less crowds, undiscovered - but I fear it is becoming more popular!
We are actually planning to move to Le Marche when we retire and are going to be spending a few weeks there this summer to look for houses - maybe we will take a few days and venture farther south Looking forward to more of your trip! |
Thank you jamikins. I do recall, and your input was very helpful when we visited Le Marche back in 2018 https://www.fodors.com/community/eur...mbria-1648112/. Good luck with your house hunting.
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Day 9 : The Trabocchi coast, Termoli (and Molise) ahoy !
We're not big fans of the Adriatic Coast, but this stretch (roughly Ortona to Vasto) is very atmospheric. It has a proliferation of wooden fishing platforms that extend out into the sea, called a trabocco, giving it the moniker the Trabocchi coast. From the platforms, multiple "antennae" project out and over the water, supporting a huge net. This operated as a traditional fishing mechanism. However, many of the trabocco have now been converted into fine-dining (seafood-focused) restaurants. We made a number of stops to admire some noteworthy ones.
We followed this route overall. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e07bc39d80.jpg Our first stop was at Marina di San Vito Chietino, where we saw our first two - Trabocco Vento di Sciorocco and San Giacomo. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e7252072e3.jpg Down by the beach https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8228c60075.jpg View of both trabuccos along the pier https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bd23d989db.jpg Trabucco Vento di Scirocco https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...004f2e0b1b.jpg Closer look We pulled over and made several other stops en route. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...490dd93321.jpg Promontory Dannunziano, a sandstone cliff overlooking the sea beyond San Vito https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bfda61633c.jpg Trabocco Punto Tofano https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aaba343042.jpg Fishermen near Punto Tofano https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4dbb6b6fd5.jpg At Marina di Vallevo, statue facing the direction of the Christ of the Abyss placed at a depth of 6 metres just off the port, a popular divespot https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...847aff32de.jpg Trabocco Sasso della Cajana, near Vallevo We visited the Abazzia San Giovanni in Venere, set amidst olive groves overlooking the coast. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9fb383f1fe.jpg Approaching the abbey https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...52f200ec32.jpg Views from abbey https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f28a284088.jpg Inside the abbey https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...21d8726267.jpg The door with marble sculpture https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c1f311ecbb.jpg View of abbey https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f21a11704.jpg Heading to the belvedere https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1d7d292995.jpg View from belvedere We made a brief stop at the desolate beach at La Morge, where Trabocco Punta Le Morge rests partly on Lo Scoglione, the Big Rock. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b1404d9c78.jpg At the beach https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...08459ceefa.jpg Trabocco Punta Le Morge https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cffe3306b1.jpg Closer look at Trabocco Punta Le Morge Punta Ardeci, a protected nature reserve was next. Unusually located just outside the industrial park of Vasto, we parked and walked up to the cliff overlooking the Spiaggia di Punta Ardeco on the left and Spiaggia dei Libertini on the right. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b6786a28f8.jpg Heading to Punta Ardeci https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5eb2d9f779.jpg The signboard https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9fde25ec6e.jpg View of Spiaggia dei Libertini https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...56efcd1846.jpg Spiaggia dei Punta Ardeci https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...780bad6344.jpg Heading down to Spiaggia dei Punta Ardeci https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...71719dc520.jpg At Spiaggia dei Punta Ardeci https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2ce99b599a.jpg And another trabocco awaits us ! Our final stop was Vasto, a split-level town with Marina Di Vasto down by the coast and the old town of Vasto overlooking it. We spent some time wandering around the old town before making it to the belvedere, running along the old town walls, with sweeping views over the coast. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e840e65590.jpg Piazza Rosseti, the main square https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1acb535d2f.jpg The castello, located right by the square in the heart of Vasto https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f3c115e1fb.jpg Along the streets https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a22256fc95.jpg By the church https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...12c3bd3945.jpg Views from Belvedere Loggia Amblingh ... TO BE CONTINUED |
Day 9 (contd.) : The Trabocchi coast, Termoli (and Molise) ahoy !
We finally reached Termoli, our home for the next 2 nights, by late afternoon. We parked by the port (the old town is entirely pedestrianised) and took the spiral stairway up to the old town and checked into our albergo diffuso.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e8fa66011b.jpg Termoli port, viewed from staircase Termoli is a historic fishing port, now turned popular central Adriatic seaside resort. We thought choosing 2 bases in Molise would give us a flavour of this region’s diversity : one along the coast (Termoli) and one inland (Isernia). Termoli is characterised by fortifications, narrow alleys, ancient churches and beaches. Interesting fact: Termoli is called the "Italian Greenwich" because it sits at the central meridian of the time zone of Berlin, Paris and Rome, which determines the time of the time zone itself, known as "Termoli time". https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f5ab00dedd.jpg Piazza Duomo, the main square https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...42c972d6f4.jpg The pastel hues of Termoli https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9b9ca5f601.jpg Narrow lanes https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...27d42a4f8d.jpg Narrow lanes https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6ee349a5e2.jpg .. and supposedly the narrowest alley in Italy "A Rejecelle" ! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...13c42a17d7.jpg Passeggiata panoramica https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0916011b6d.jpg View of the nearest beach - Spiaggia di Sant'Antonio https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8a788455af.jpg And its very own Trabucco di Celestino, by the pier https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c86ef84c50.jpg View of the castle, and fortified walls, from near the pier |
Again, Anuj, glorious photos!!
And again, so few people in the streets!! Although I keep seeing the back of one slender, dark-haired female with a backpack slung over her shoulders!! I hope you were not stalking this young woman. Termoli looks a LOT prettier when the sun is shining, as opposed to in the dreary grey weather we encountered!! |
Oh my.those trabocchi are really something to see. I've never seen anything quite like them.
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Haha eks, I have been stalking her for over two decades now, she's my wife!
thanks shelemm for your continued interest. |
Enjoying your ongoing travels.
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Thank you Adelaidean. Ive always enjoyed all your TRs as you know. Notably, your recent South Island one has got me thinking about beautiful New Zealand very actively - it's been many years since we went.
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Day 10 : Termoli, Day trip to the Tremiti islands
Just off the Gargano’s north coast (the spur of the Italian boot, in the region of Puglia), the Tremiti islands is a five island archipelago that is a protected marine reserve. According to legend, the Tremiti were formed when Diomedes, the mythical hero threw boulders into the Adriatic Sea. This tiny archipelago consists of 5 islands : San Nicola, San Domino, Capraia, Pianosa, and Cretaccio (only the first two are inhabited). Also known as "the pearls of the Adriatic" in its glittering turquoise waters, the Tremiti are a huge draw for nature lovers and divers (there’s a statue of Padre Pio immersed in the waters off Capraia at 14m) alike.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...05e15bb823.png When deciding on a coastal base for this holiday, we had also considered Vasto (just 30km north, which we visited the previous day). However, Termoli scored as it is smaller and more intimate. More importantly, Termoli offers the most efficient, year-round connections to the Tremiti Islands, where we intended to spend most of today. We had missed these islands during our previous holiday in Puglia, ironically they are easier accessed from Molise. We had bought tickets at the Termoli port the previous day (cheaper in person than online!). In May, there's just a single run - the NLG ferry to San Donato (the largest of the islands, offering the most to see and do) leaving Termoli at 9am, returning at 5pm. Upon landing, we followed this walking circuit (clockwise) - along a walking path (with some signage) that hugs the east coast all the way to the lighthouse (at the southern tip of the island). We returned by the quicker and more direct main road passing through the village. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c32aff4e62.jpg The red dotted line with walking icons represents our broad route We took a little over 4 hours to complete this at a leisurely pace. As many visitors opt for a boat tour (less effort intensive, and better access to some of the caves from the water than land) to circumnavigate the islands, we encountered only a handful of others on the walking route. While it was a bright and sunny day, the tree cover along the way offers welcome shade and respite. We also parked ourselves at multiple benches en route to soak in the views and for refreshment and rest breaks (there are no shops or toilets after the port). The first stop, close to the port, was the (only) sandy beach on the island - Cala delle arene. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d27593595c.jpg Th San Donato port, the sialnd of San Nicola visible across the water https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2fb8109b95.jpg At the beach https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ecd633e478.jpg At the beach We made several stops along the east coast till we reched the lighthouse/faro. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d2cd19df71.jpg Cala Spido https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c7a73c4928.jpg Cala Matano https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ffe37fd6cb.jpg Beautiful viewpoint https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e10365a9db.jpg Grotta e Scoglie dell'Elefante https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...044f49aa41.jpg Grotta del Viole https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6a429517a4.jpg Grotta del Viole We eventually reached the lighthouse, and returned to the port (this time via the main public road, passing through the village). https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b935f055c1.jpg The lighthouse finally emerges .. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ee0c9a4a9c.jpg At the lighthouse, at which point we headed back to the port https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e17eb4eb5d.jpg Passing through the village, the 'main" square https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...40dc4ff9d9.jpg Passing through the village Back at the port, we headed north to one of the most iconic viewpoints (and not easiest to find, its near Villaggio Punta del Diamante) of the island which oversees Grotta dei Pagliai. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c6155fdea7.jpg Heading to the viewpoint, view of the other islands https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...baf36c4313.jpg At the viewpoint We relaxed at this bench, as we waited to board our return ferry. It had been a long and tiring day, and back in Termoli settled for take-away pizza from the wonderful Pizzeria Diez for dinner. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...650a4e8c61.jpg At the bench, the San Nicola island visible in the far distance with the church and fortifications |
Great Trip reports and photos, so useful and enjoyable to read. Complimenti!
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Originally Posted by just_tina
(Post 17658663)
Great Trip reports and photos, so useful and enjoyable to read. Complimenti!
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What a spectacular walk, interesting coves and seascapes and a village, then that fabulous viewpoint.
It’s cold and miserable here, your report is a fabulous distraction! |
Day 11 : Onwards to Isernia, inland Molise
We left Termoli after breakfast, followng this driving route, aiming to reach Agnone by 11am for our English guided tour at Marinelli.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ef88be5467.jpg Agnone’s main attraction is the historic Marinelli bell foundry, in operation for ~ 1000 years, rendering it possibly the oldest family run business in the world (currently its 27th generation!). Agnone has historically been the centre of bell-making, but Marinelli is the only unit still in operation. Many church and clock tower bells are produced here, including for the Vatican and the Leaning Tower of Pisa. They use the Papal Coat of Arms in their bells as they were granted this privilege by Pope Pio XI in 1924. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c9c32a14b6.jpg Outside https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7aa505036f.jpg Iside the shop, starting our tour There are bells publicly displayed outside, but the museum and foundry can only be visited with a guide (they were very kind to accommodate us in an English tour). The tour includes a video and explanation of the bellmaking process (fascinating), a walkthru of the foundry itself and a fun session where the bellmaster rings some bells with some familiar tunes (we recognised Jingle Bells!). https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0f39a2669d.jpg The foundry, with traditional oven / pit https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ff1480566e.jpg The design shop https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...975d47c7d3.jpg More bells, I think they were awaiting delivery to Vietnam Our next stop was Pietrabbondante, a very charming perched village in Molise that seems lost in time. It is surrounded by towering rocks called "Morg" Caraceni, and it's possible to climb on top of one of the rocks to enjoy a sweeping view over the village rooftops and surrounding valley. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9191d5c13f.jpg View of the village https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3a6dea9158.jpg The main square with the Samnite warrior statue https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e560f7523.jpg We climbed to the top of this rock https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7263435314.jpg To relish this view https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ccd5265fee.jpg Walking back to our parking Pietraboddante boasts extensive ruins including an ancient Samnite theatre and temple, located on hillside just outside (dating back to the 2nd century BCE) which we discovered to be closed on Mondays! The samnites were an ancient ethnic group that fought against and eventually lost to the Romans. Our final stop was Pesche, a small village of stone houses and narrow streets, dating back to the 5th century. The village emerges from and cascades down the mountain almost vertically - climbing to the centro storico was a real workout for the legs. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...32be5401c6.jpg View of "vertical" Pesche from the street https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...85b12120a0.jpg And we start climbing up https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0bbc0216f4.jpg Enjoying the views that unravelled https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...35eed717de.jpg And further up https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...df4e57af79.jpg More views https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b64279c204.jpg That's as far as we got https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...55750a21e9.jpg And headed back to our parking We finally headed to Isernia, our home for the next 3 nights. When choosing an inland base, Campobasso (the capital of Molise) and Isernia were our obvious choices. Campobasso is larger and more urbanised, and Isernia was closer to our overall route and sightseeing priorities. So we parked ourselves here for 3 nights in an apartment just off the main square. The day we arrived was incredibly busy and festive, being a public holiday to celebrate the Festa San Pietro Celestino, commemorating the former pope and patron Saint of the city. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a05c8d3ded.jpg Market in the main square https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...257b8ea293.jpg With lots of people out on the streets |
Day 12 : Isernia, exploring southern Molise
This was our driving route for today.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e1841be90.jpg Our first stop today was Basilica Minore dell'Addolorata, near Castelpetroso. This marks the location where the Virgin Mary reportedly appeared to two shepherdesses. It's as beautiful inside as it is outside. Looking up towards the dome, you can see elaborate mosaics of saints and apostles. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2022150e28.jpg Near the parking https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...45868685a2.jpg The beautful facade and entrances https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...751431d02d.jpg And beautiful interiors (looking front) https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...24d056c1ce.jpg And beautiful interiors (looking back) https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3ed367ccdb.jpg Looking up at the dome https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0f4e5b712e.jpg Nativity scene https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9184d22b8d.jpg Another view of church from near the belevedere https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c3cb1f3c31.jpg View from the belevedere Continuing our dabble into Samnite history, we headed south to the Saepinum Archaeological Zone. Saepinum was originally established by the Samnites, but was conquered by the Romans in 293 BCE, and eventually the Arabs in 882. The site is extensive and fascinating, well-preserved and offers a very immersive experience. It was lying ignored (no visitor centre, no fencing, no tickets!) till 2024 but is now under the protection and management of the Ministry of Culture. We bought our tickets at the main entrance and followed the helpful route map and instructions provided by the enthusiastic staff. This provided useful context to what we were about to see. The circuit took about 90 minutes and included two museums housing very interesting relics from the site and surrounds. Saepinum is as fascinating as Pompeii or Ostia, with zero crowds. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5f497afc80.jpg Basilica https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3fdd4818ec.jpg Houses leading to Porta Bojano https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c84ba70754.jpg Porta Bojano https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d92c1789bc.jpg The preserved walls https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bcf6a3816d.jpg Mausoleum https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f8e8f25eb8.jpg The theatre https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...456aa94c45.jpg The theatre https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c7b7b09564.jpg Exhibits in the museum https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ae2e578aed.jpg Exhibits in the museum (pottery and tools) https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...522688e26b.jpg Exhibits in the museum (reliefs with gladiators) https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...96e47fe268.jpg Exhibits in the museum (Tombstones) https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...84f4920d56.jpg Statue of lion https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c0ca0c5de6.jpg Sacrophagus https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8f8b565d1b.jpg Rock with inscriptions https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5c50e78dcf.jpg Forum, view from near the tannery https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8a0d6cbdd1.jpg Another porta https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f002527a54.jpg Mausoleum of Marcus Our final stop was the charming town of Carpinone, with a beautiful waterfall hidden in its outskirts in a wonderfully serene setting. The path to the waterfall is stony, uneven and steep in parts. We only had some goats for company. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b7a3104aca.jpg View of Carpinone from our parking https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b302d68605.jpg View from outskirts https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...60254b91a1.jpg Charming home, around the beginning of the path to the falls https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ccebc7deee.jpg View from the top https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dde9762ee6.jpg View of the falls https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1b264ea13a.jpg At the bottom https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3f8d20749f.jpg At the bottom https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a6c6d6fc01.jpg The path back up |
Thank you for sharing your wonderful holiday. Your photos demonstrate that Italy is chockful of lovely villages and small towns. I can see that having a car definitely allows you to see more than using local transport.
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Wow, this gets better and better. As you know, I am thinking of Isernia for a base of several nights. I had a number of these towns bookmarked for day trips but Pesche was not on my radar. It looks like a good walking workout.
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What a beautiful area to spend 3 weeks exploring. Lovely photos and the map is nice to see locations.
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Glorious!
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Originally Posted by Adelaidean
(Post 17658767)
What a spectacular walk, interesting coves and seascapes and a village, then that fabulous viewpoint.
It’s cold and miserable here, your report is a fabulous distraction! |
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