Umbria & Rome: Late April

Old Jan 1st, 2010, 04:39 PM
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Umbria & Rome: Late April

Hi

An opportunity has come up that may mean we can travel to Italy for 7 or 8 nights on the ground. We would fly in and out of FCO. There are some places in Umbria that I would like to visit, but I'm not sure about timing and choices.

We could do 7 nights, at the end of April and beginning of May; or 8 nights in mid-to-late April. Of course, the extra night is my first choice, but I would like to hear from some of you that have experience visiting Umbria in April.

Also, your favorite towns for art, atmosphere, history and beauty, and food too, would be great to hear about. We have spent time in Assisi, Perugia, Montefalco, and Spello. I am thinking of Gubbio, Norcero Umbra and Umbertide, with maybe a stop in Tuscany, perhaps Poppi or even Cortona, where I haven't been.

We would divide our time between a few days in Rome and a few in Umbria. I guess I want your opinions on the idea of driving around the upper end of Umbria during the second half of April.
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Old Jan 2nd, 2010, 04:00 AM
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Driving around any part of Umbria in April should be just fine. I wouldn't have any concerns. As to where you want to go, based on your previous experiences, which did you enjoy more: the intense art cities? The quiet preserved towns? The isolated places in beautiful scenery?

The countryside around Gubbio is quite beautiful, especially just headed toward the direction of le Marche. An itinerary that would appeal to me is heading for Umbertide-Gubbio, but then veering in the direction of Urbania-Urbino, and exploring the hills of Montefeltro.

If you prefer something art-oriented there are Piero della Franceso trails and shines to St Francis above Arezzo to explore in that area.

I am unfamiliar with Norcero Umbra (the pictures make it look fascinating.) Heading in that direction, I think you would be way too early for a trip to the Piano Grande. It's only at the highest elevations of the mountains that you would have to worry about bad weather, I think, and you can easily avoid that (lots of valleys around, including the pretty Nerina) by paying attention to daily weather forecasts.
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Old Jan 2nd, 2010, 04:07 AM
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http://www.lifeinitaly.com/tourism/l...ern-marche.asp
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Old Jan 2nd, 2010, 06:43 AM
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We flew to Rome, trained to Perugia (as our base) and returned to Rome in March 2009. Most days, I wore my all weather coat but 60's day weather was comfortable for walking. About rain, I can't tell you but temp-wise, I'd think you'd be even warmer in mid-April when you have the extra day.

We took a bus to Gubbio (that's the only one we've been to that you mentioned you haven't seen) and loved it. If it's convenient as a base for you, it's a lovely place. We had a very special lunch at Picchio Verde (Via Savelli della Porta, 65) while there.
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Old Jan 2nd, 2010, 07:55 AM
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Hi tuscanlifeedit,

I really enjoyed Gubbio! Very ancient, interesting, beautiful views, nice people, great ceramics and shops. Of course, there's the "bucket of bolts" (as Maitai Tom calls it)lift up to the top of the mountain.

I had originally planned 2 nts at the Palazzo Ducale, but checked out after 1 sleepless night filled with church bells every 15 minutes - all night! If you do paln to stay in Gubbio, pick somewhere quiet - ask specifically in advance about church bells!

I also realy liked Cortona which was just a 1/2 day visit. Beautiful little town and the steepest I've visited - so far.

Have fun!
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Old Jan 2nd, 2010, 02:06 PM
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Another vote for Gubbio!

Although it sounds like you won't be in the area at the time, I thought I should mention that the Corsa dei Ceri (Race of the Candles) takes place in Gubbio on May 15th (just in case you can push your dates!). Huge wooden "candles" representing saints of the town are carried by teams in a race from the main piazza to the Abbey on the hill above town. There is also a crossbow competition between Gubbio and Sansepolcro in Gubbio sometime in May.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVAgI3S-nhE

We drove past Nocera Umbra on our way to Gubbio. The area is beautiful, although I remember the road as being rather full of traffic for as narrow as it was. Presumably, Nocera Umbra being on the hill above the road, is more tranquil. The roads between Gubbio and Umbertide and Gubbio and Perugia are more scenic IMO.

The area between Montefalco, Bastardo and Spoleto is also just beautiful. Heck, it's all great. It would be easier to list the places to skip.

FYI, the Festa del Calendimaggio is held in Assisi the first week of May. The main event is a parade in Renaissance and medieval costumes. There are antiques fairs in Todi and Assisi, usually in late April. April 25th is a national holiday.
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Old Jan 2nd, 2010, 02:07 PM
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And, of course, May 1st is also a national holiday.
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Old Jan 2nd, 2010, 02:23 PM
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Hi, Tuscan.

I spent 6 weeks on two trips to Umbria in 2006. Both times I stayed in the Paciano/Panicale area and loved it and all the towns around it. For cities, I visited Perugia (loved it), Assisi (didn't love it but appreciated it), and Cortona (hated it, but perhaps that's because it was July and absolutely everyone was an English-speaking tourist and the streets were so crowded you couldn't even see anything. I found myself in Chiusi many times for practical reasons and came to enjoy that town a lot, too.

We did a lot of day trips up into the mountains to visit spas and out-of-the-way towns, drove into Tuscany a few times, and spent a day driving to Umbertide and towns nearby it. That was not a highlight of the trip. Umbertide didn't hold any really special appeal for me at all (except for the "Shroud of Turin" that was supposedly in a church there), and from where I was based it was a very long day trip with no special rewards.
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Old Jan 2nd, 2010, 09:19 PM
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Thank you all; this is just the sort of information I was hoping for.

Jean: what is the April 25 holiday? What does it entail?

I actually got the tickets today. The offer was just too good to pass, and we ended up with an extra night on the ground. We leave home April 21, and return May 1.

We really weren't planning on Europe this year and this opportunity is perfect, as we will be in Italy on my 60th birthday.

Gubbio is sounding very good. We have spent time in Perugia, and I have been to Assisi several times. As much as I love St. Francis, I'm not interested in going there on this trip.

stepsbeyond: what we like the most is art. We have been to Arezzo for the Piero's a few times, but I am thinking of Sansepolcro, where we haven't been. I would love to see Piero's pregnant Madonna.

We are thinking of 5 nights in Umbria and 4 in Rome, where we have been several times, but there are still so many things to see.
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Old Jan 2nd, 2010, 09:28 PM
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April 25 is Liberation Day, which celebrates the end of Nazi occupation of Italy. It honors veterans and Resistance fighters, and it is an official holiday. There are ceremonies throughout Italy, and offices and shops are closed. Public transport operates on a holiday schedule, but museums and restaurants, as a rule, remain open.
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Old Jan 2nd, 2010, 10:47 PM
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The weather in Umbria is fine from April onwards, you can get some wet days but the temperatures are quite nice, well its 15 degrees here today and its Jan 3rd. Umbria is not a massive province and there are wonderful sights at all points. I would base myself in the centre around Perugia, Assisi from there you can easily reach Gubbio, Montone, Orvieto, Marmore waterfalls, Lake Trasimeno. The Corso dei Ceri and Balestra festivals in Gubbio are brilliant to see and very popular so be prepared for a crush.

I write for italyitalia.com and have written a number of guides to the Umbria area. Worth looking at just to get first hand ideas of locations if nothing else.
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Old Jan 3rd, 2010, 01:37 AM
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tuscanlifeedit.

If art is your major pleasure, you might find this website very useful for helping your craft an itinerary in Umbria that includes Gubbio and Umbertide:

http://tangoitalia.com/turismo/umbri...cescano_1.html

Also, forewarned by StCirq about the mood-killing downsides of being surrounded by English-speaking tourists, there is nonetheless a highly regarded Annunciation by Fra Angelico in Cortona.

http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/a/angelico/04/

Another think you need to know about April 25 is that Italians seem to regard it as near mandatory that they get in their cars and go motor-touring and sightseeing, especially if it creates a long weekend. I would avoid picking a major tourist destination as your target for that day, and book accommodations in advance wherever you plan to be.
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Old Jan 3rd, 2010, 02:10 AM
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Three years ago we spent 9 days in Umbria. We based ourselves in the flat town (unusual in Umbria and that's why we chose it) of Bevagna. Very small and quaint town, may be too small for some but we loved it. We also loved the Palazzo Brunamonti hotel where we stayed. Price was very reasonable, hotel was spotless, owners and employees impeccable in their help, patience and smiles.

Being for so many days in Umbria, we ended up visiting a lot of places. We did not make it to Gubbio though, maybe some other time. However, we did go to Piano Grande with a friend (who did the driving!!) and it was SUCH an experience. We were there in October so there were not many flowers and greenery. But at end April, it should be simply magnificent and I would highly recommend a visit.
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Old Jan 3rd, 2010, 02:17 AM
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I actually think the end of April might be much too soon for a safe trip to the Piano Grande. The elevation is high, and I am pretty sure spring flowers don't appear there until close to June. I was driving on roads without guard rails through clouds on my visit there -- meaning quite thick fog and some rain -- and that was in autumn. I wouldn't venture a trip without first checking with locals about weather conditions.
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Old Jan 3rd, 2010, 02:21 AM
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ttt for reference later
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Old Jan 3rd, 2010, 04:51 AM
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Ear plugs for Gubbio? We didn't spend the night so didn't have Dayle's problem. Expect the Gubbions are used to it!
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Old Jan 3rd, 2010, 09:30 AM
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Useful information as we plan our next trip which will include Rome & Umbria!

2010
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Old Jan 3rd, 2010, 04:49 PM
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Ear plugs for Gubbio? I take ear plugs wherever I go. Ever since the rooster.
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Old Jan 5th, 2010, 12:08 PM
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Ear plugs for everywhere, for me.

This thread is so helpful to me. I see that I have to plan now for the April 25 holiday.

St Cirq: you mentioned spas. One of the top things to do on my list for this trip is to find a thermal pool to swim in. I would prefer outdoors with hot water. I only need an hour or so, but this is something I've wanted to do for a long time. Can you recommend anywhere? I've been doing Google searches and not coming up with anything.
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Old Jan 6th, 2010, 04:34 AM
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Stop off in Le Marche for sure - under an hour drive from Gubbio is a fantastic farmhouse, inn & cooking school that was recently featured in Food & Wine that is worth a stop & stay for sure! Check out La Tavola Marche - http://www.latavolamarche.com
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