Not to hijack this thread, but all this talk of driving in Perugia brings back memories.

As a result of an ill-informed decision on my part, we (my wife, our son, another couple and me) ended up having rented a Fiat Ducato in Italy in 2003. This is a VERY large nine-passenger van, probably the most impractical vehicle one could imagine for navigating the narrow streets you find in Umbrian hilltowns, which is where we spent the bulk of our 2 1/2 week May vacation.

Each day, I would sweat profusely as we approached another new town ... Spoleto, Assisi, Todi, Spello, etc ... wondering how I was going to maneuver that monstrosity through the tiny alley-like roads. The day we visited Perugia, I met my match when I reached a tangled intersection of ancient streets in the old town. I had one option ... make a hard right turn onto a ridiculously tight cobblestone "street", on a very steep downgrade, leading to an old stone arch and eventually, supposedly, a parking area. After 3 or 4 attempts to make this turn, I became hopelessly wedged-in between the stone wall of a house behind me and a signpost in front of me, with no more than a couple of inches to spare on either end, and on what seemed like a 90' grade. As the cars began to back up and the horns started sounding behind me, I squeezed out of the driver's side of the "bus" and threw up my arms in total frustration ... I had no idea what to do. My travelling mates were equally useless.

Out of a car that had been 2 or 3 vehicles behind us emerged a young Italian man of about 19 or 20, who asked in very good English if he could be of help. Of course, I had little choice but to accept his offer. With a smile, he climbed in behind the wheel, and within a few seconds, had worked the Fiat free, and positioned it so that it was aimed straight ahead, down the steep slope. He then asked us to wait in the vehicle while he somehow guided his car around us, and signalled me to follow him ... still a big, happy smile on his face the entire time. He escorted us through the arch, made a few more turns, and saw us safely to the parking garage we had been looking for. Without giving me any other opportunity to thank him, or show my appreciation in a material way, he waved and disappeared down a side street.

Whenever I think about what is special about Italy, this smiling young man is one of the first things that comes to mind.

By the way, add us to the list of those who stayed at Palazzo Bocci in Spello, and loved it. We had great meals at both La Bastiglia and Il Mulino. Spello is a lovely place - immaculate cobblestone streets, beautiful old stone houses with gorgeous flowers draping the doors and windows, and sweet, friendly people. But as mentioned many times above, if you're looking for a party town, or even a loud bar, this ain't it!

Have a wonderful time in Umbria!

phillboy: great story, well-told...I really don't want to alarm Ginge and do think she would be happy in Perugia: you just have to accept that the parking garage down the hill is a better option that the streets in the centre of the old town.

I loved that story, phillyboy!

For those Fodorites who would prefer to dispense with the rental car, rest assured that most of the significant tourist towns in Umbria can be visited by public transportation (bus or train), including the following: Perugia, Gubbio, Assisi, Spello, Foligno, Trevi, Montefalco, Bevagna, Spoleto, Norcia, Narni, Amelia, Todi and Orvieto. That's a lot of towns to see. Indeed, you can see ALL of these towns by public transportation simply by basing yourself in two or three places chosen among the foregoing.

HI LJ - my intent was to alarm Ginge, or to dissuade her from basing in Perugia. If I'd done better research in advance, as she is doing here, we'd have known to look for parking in the lower town, and taking the elevator.

Should have said "my intent was NOT to alarm ..."

If its Perugia, look at the SlowTrav website. There are step by step directions to a parking garage at the bottom of the escalator system. You'll have to dig for it, but it is, truly, invaluable.

Oh, Phillyboy: I am sorry if you took it to mean I was chiding you!!! I LOVED your story and you write SO well...I know you didn't intend to alarm Ginge and I don't believe you or anybody else did...we seem to have lost her anyway, but lots of good info here on Perugia.

The real damage done by this thread is that it makes ME want to go to Perugia NOW!!!

Information on parking in Perugia :

http://www.perugiaonline.com/parchepgus.html

Hi LJ - I was not offended in the least by your comment, and glad you enjoyed the story.

We all laugh about it now, but many of the words that came out of my mouth at the time we were stuck on that hill not really fit for family reading!

Pvoyageuse: perfect information...even if Ginge never comes back, this thread is a wealth of info on an oft-overlooked but wonderful town in Italy.

Here's to Perugia!

phillyboy, your story was great and reminds me an experience we had in Spain. I think I was in high school; I remember I was at an annoying age, so definitely could have been high school. Dad had tried to make a U turn on what seemed like a not so busy street leaving the outskirts of Segovia. He didn't quite make the turn and then just could not get the car into reverse. Traffic started backing up and we all started yelling at poor dad and trying to tell him what to do - and he just couldn't do it. Panic was setting in when a young Spanish man appeared, had Dad get out, jumped in, backed up the car and finished the turn. Then disappeared. Nice guy!

thanks again everyone for your help. i was away for a few days and didn't check in. We have decided to stay in Perugia but per your advice we'll check out those parking sites that some of you suggested and hopefully avoid the car issues.

any thoughts on restaurants in the area?

Just thinking about it makes me wish we were going NOW... Oh well...

Go to Sandri's for a coffee and delicious pastry. Or just oggle the window display.

"any thoughts on restaurants in the area?"

Nana, Via Cavour in Perugia

Restaurants: #1)do not miss the Castello dell'Oscano...a short distance out of Perugia, fabulous setting and amazing, authentically Umbrian cuisine, great service...we stayed there and had the pleasure of one of the best and most romantic evenings of all our time in Italy.
www.italytraveller.com/en/c/castello-dell-oscano

#2) Caffe di Perugia, just off the main piazza in the centre of Perugia...a multi-layered house of fabulous food, this place is like one of those Russian dolls...first there is a cafe, excellent coffee/pastries...then there is a pizzeria with a wood-burning stove...then there is a vinoteca with bibites and the MOST amazing wine list...then there is a full-dress white-table cloth ristorante with frescos on the celing that are reputed to be by Perugino

There were others, if you are a chocolate fan this is your town.. but time and stomach space ran out on us...

Buon appetito!

Perugia is really fantastic. I also love Nana (but get directions, it's a bit of a walk down from the historic centre on the way to San Pietro, and easy to miss)

Great, inexpensive pizza at Pizzeria Mediterraneo (on Piazza Piccinino almost right across from the entrance to the Duomo) There are always long lines so get there early. Or be patient.

I also like Il Cantonine, which is behind the Duomo on Via Ritorta. It has outdoor tables.

Down below the Duomo on Via Balderschi is Osteria del Gambero It's creative food, modern, a bit jazzy.

And an old standby is Da Cesarino, on Piazza IV Novembre.

sacc, annabelle, LJ, etc. - don't mean to take over ginge's thread but we are going to Perugia in October to see my daughter who will be studying abroad there. Unfortunately, we have to go the week of the chocolate festival. Can you recommend any hotels on the outskirts of town or neighboring towns? Would like to keep it under $200. Thanks.

betsyG,

The Hotel Rosalba is simple and very clean, and very conveniently located at the bottom of the escalator into Perugia, steps from the train station and bus depot. It has a website.

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