Umbria
 

Two middle-aged couples traveling to Umbria in July, here's the itinerary, please comment if you see where we could improve. This will be my husband and my fourth trip to Italy, the other couple's first time overseas.

I know that we're moving around quite a bit, but when we visited Tuscany a few years ago, we stayed in different towns every other night, and we really enjoyed strolling the streets in the evenings without crowds, eating locally in different towns (and not driving home after having dinner with wine!). We didn't feel the frequent checking in/out was onerous.

One traveler is gluten intolerant/celiac. I've read that this is more accommodated in Europe (due to more awareness of the condition). Does anyone have any first hand experience with this? He does well at home, but has to eat in nicer restaurants with knowledgeable chef. He's reliably ill for 72 hours if he inadvertently ingests wheat, and it's insidiously hidden where you'd least expect it.

Another traveler will be just a week out of his cast (broke ankle in two places, metal plate, a dozen screws), and I'm concerned about the cobblestone streets and steep inclines. Jeeze, don't we sound like fun? We're actually very healthy and active, late forties. The guys like to drive. We all like to eat, and are interested in art, architecture and history. One shopper in the group.

Sunday: Arrive in Rome, taxi to Termini, train to ORVIETO.
Two nights at Inncasa Orvieto. Dinner Sunday at the hotel. Recover from flight, perhaps see cathedral and sites.

Monday: Velia's Cooking School 9 -4. Dinner ideas? We may not be hungry...

Tuesday: Pick up rental cars. Drive 75km to PERUGIA. Possible side trip to Gubbio.
Hotel Sangallo Palace.
Dinner??

Wednesday: Drive 32km to SPELLO. See Assisi on the way. Hotel Palazzo Bocci.
Dinner - Il Molino? Il Cacciatore? Porto Venere?

Thursday: Drive 23km to MONTEFALCO.
Two nights @ Villa Zuccari.
Side trip to Piano Grande. Lunch at Palazzo Seneca – Ristorante Vespasia.
Dinners - L'Alchimista? Ottavius in nearby Bevagna?
Wine tasting/tour??

Saturday: Drive 86km to ORVIETO, drop off rental car, train back to ROME.
Two nights @ ???? Need a hotel, can go up to $300/night, but prefer to pay less. Would like a comfy bed, quiet room and A/C that actually works. Thinking about Spanish Steps area because that would please the one shopper in our group. But since I rather dislike shopping, especially on vacation, I'm hesitant (and they did put me in charge here...). Put in an email request at Convent Santa Brigada, near Piazza Farnese, where we stayed seven years ago, but not confident we'll get in at this late date.

Our friend requested that the one thing he'd like to see in Rome is the Coliseum and I'm booking a private tour for that. Otherwise our time is free for a half day Saturday and all day Sunday to just roam Rome.

Restaurant suggestions?? It doesn't have to be anything fancy, just non-tourist food (which in the past seemed difficult to just bump into Rome).

Monday - Flight departs @ 1055am.

Thanks for any suggestions, input, comments!

For Montefalco, my choice of a dinner restaurant would be Coccorone, especially since one of its great signature dishes is a risotto made of the local Sagrantino wine, so your gluten-intolerant traveling companion should be very happy there.

Sagrantino wine is one of Italy's finest and strongest, so you definitely want to walk home or taxi home. I've never stayed in Villa Zuccari, but I get the impression it is quite a bit outside Montefalco. If you want an in-town option, Coccorone has pretty rooms, and I was very happy at Frantoio I Brizi,, a b&b over an olive oil mill, just a stone's throw beyond the historic town gate, but easily walkable to everything, and it has parking.

http://www.coccorone.com/

http://www.frantoiobrizi.it/

Also, you might want to take a look at this:

http://www.gfguideny.com/homegfguideitaly.html

Thanks for the tips!

Your website regarding gluten free eating in Italy inspired me to search even more and it seems as though Italy accommodates celiac diet very well. I didn't realize that so many in Italy tested positive, and that it was easier to get a gluten free meal there (in pasta-land) than it is here in the US. Here's a blog that gave us much reassurance:

http://glutenfreegirl.blogspot.com/2...-in-italy.html

You're absolutely right about Villa Zuccari being a bit out of Montefalco. It comes with a pool, however, a request made by one in our party (I do aim to please). He's agreed to be the designated driver in consideration for the pool.

Thanks again for your input!

I think you're being optimistic about the mobility of the friend fresh out of a cast, post-surgery, etc. I suspect that person will require a few weeks of PT before being able to tackle the kind of walking, both uphill and downhill, you'll encounter in towns like Gubbio, Spello, Assisi, and the long distances in Rome.

Jean, I think you're right. This guy's a physician and I'd think he would know better, he must be in denial or something. His wife is sooo excited about the trip, he doesn't want to disappoint is my guess. Not my decision though.

He may end up hanging out at hotels while the three of us go out exploring. My husband and I will still make the trip even if they have to cancel (which they swear won't happen). I remember being happy that I had very supportive shoes while visiting Tuscany a few years ago, can't imagine what it would be like on a gimpy ankle. But he's been made fully aware!

I wonder if we could rent one of those motorized wheelchairs? I doubt he'd sit in it. We'll use a lot of taxis in Rome, I'm guessing. He'll see a lot of scenery while driving between Umbrian towns, though the car is useless once in town. Not sure how else to accommodate him? Park him at a table at a restaurant in a scenic area with a bottle of Sagrantino?

Oh, I lucked out and got in at Casa di Brigida in Rome. Trip's coming together very well, hopefully our friend's ankle is on the mend. Only thing I can do is not let it become too much my problem.

He could get a folding cane or even one of those tripod things with a seat. I know when we took the tour of the doge's palace - secret itineraries tour there was an older gentleman who really needed to sit down and there wasn't any place to do that....he kept leaning on the wall and the tour guide got testy about it. He was part of a group from a cruise ship and I think Venice was proving difficult for him to navigate.

Anyway, if your friend had a way to get off his feet when you were listening to a guide, waiting in line, etc then perhaps he could tour longer with you guys. But, sittimg at a cafe sipping wine..... what is not to like!

T4TX, that's a great idea! I wonder if he'd use it?? I'm going to find one online, send him the link. Thanks!

catherine, we just got back from 3 weeks in Umbria and Rome. Spello was one of our favorite towns but it will be difficult for someone with mobility issues.

We went to Gubbio after our stay in Perugia, its about an hour drive NE from Perugia and certainly out of the way from Orvieto. Unless it's a must see, Perugia has more than enough to interest your group for a one day stay. In Perugia I can recommend the restaurant La Taverna on Via delle Streghe 8

We took a wine tour with Gusto Wine Tours. We had a wonderful time enjoying the variety of wines in the Montefalco area of Umbria. www.gustowinetours.com

We enjoyed Umbria so much, even though our weather was cool and rainy. I'm sure it will be much nicer in July ;;) Deborah

Catherine43 -- you are welcome.

In Orvieto we ate at Antica trattoria dell'Orso and had a fabulous meal, would highly recommend it.

In Rome we last stayed at the Albergo del Senato which gets recommended here a bunch. We paid about 300 per night, but that was 2 years ago. I love the rooftop terrace, its location, and the staff super nice.

DeborahAnn, Thanks for restaurant suggestion in Perugia, that one is on our short list and it's nice to hear your recommendation.

The main attraction for us in Gubbio is the open-cage funicular - my hubby's been working on conquering his fear of heights (rock climbing, hot air balloons) and I thought that the funicular might be the ultimate challenge! I do hate to shortchange the visit to Perugia though.

Great tip on wine tour as well - thanks.

My cooking class in Orvieto is not panning out - any body know of another? (We tried Velia's.)

T4TX, Thanks for Antica trattoria dell'Orso recommendation - looks like we may need another restaurant in Orvieto!

Catherine, if your schedule allows we did a 4 hour cooking class with Chef Andrea Consoli while in Rome in May. We had a great time. The cost was 50 per person plus 20 euros each if you wanted wine with your meal. I took the class with my sister and two nieces along with 3 other people. Chef Andrea is a delight. We made stuffed zucchini blossoms, homemade pasta for pasta carbonara, saltimbocca and tiramisu. You can reach him at www.cookingclassesinrome.com Have fun, Deborah

I agree with DeborahAnn about perhaps using your time to explore Perugia without trying to include Gubbio. My husband and I went to Gubbio on a daytrip from Cortona in 2006 (much further than Perugia) but we arrived about 20 min. before the funicular was to shut down for lunch (12.00). Our plan was to walk back down. The conductor would not let us on and wasn't going to start up again till 15.00, after we needed to leave. We did buy truffle stuff which was great, but this year are spending a couple of nights there to be sure we see Gubbio, and to incorporate a daytrip to Urbino.

Did anyone mention that Gubbio is extremely hilly? Your recuperating friend will find that one a major challenge.