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Thanks, we never drove but got the impression that petrol stations (and some parking lots) were cunningly tucked away. 😁
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Originally Posted by TDudette
(Post 17302182)
Thanks, we never drove but got the impression that petrol stations (and some parking lots) were cunningly tucked away. 😁
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Day 29: Marmore Falls and Spoleto
We had been putting off going to Marmore Falls, after reading many terrible online reviews: Too crowded. Disappointing. Highly overrated. Expensive. Cheesy. Too many trinket shops. But there were many good reviews as well: Astonishing. Spectacular. A must see. A true engineering marvel.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d49919123d.jpg Torn between the extremes, we decided to get our own opinion, first coming upon extensive power lines leading to various hydroelectric facilities. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a40c3e007b.jpg Marmore Falls A little fog bank in initially clouded the top of Marmore Falls as we entered the lower parking lot. Some people do come from lots at the top of the falls as well. In fact, the ticket office at the lower, busier area was very slow moving with only one ticket seller; we saw few people at the top. There also was no English language literature or maps available. But there it was, the tallest man-made waterfall in the world. 541 feet that comes in three sections. First, the statistics to put it in perspective. Other than an under ocean waterfall, Angel Falls in Venezuela is natural, and it falls 3,212 feet, with most of that in a single drop. So, not such a big deal, except that God didn’t build this one; the Romans did in 271 BC. The history, in short: In the upper area, there was a stagnant wetland, and there were fears it was causing malaria, so the Romans built a canal so that the water could be pushed over the cliff at Marmore. It wasn’t a perfect solution, since it also created floods in the valleys below for many centuries afterward. And, of course, as with some government projects, maintenance wasn’t kept up on the canal. The wetlands returned, and various Popes interceded. It wasn’t until 1787 that the falls were altered into the current drop sections that helped minimize flooding issues, and a hundred years later the water was harnessed to initially power steel mills. After reading multiple reviews, our take is do NOT go on week-ends. That is when most of the negative reactions take place. We went on a Monday. Crowds were at a minimum. Also, make sure you go when the water is turned on. The falls literally are turned off, except for five hours a day: 11-1; 3-5; and 9-10 at night. And, that can be subject too change. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...99de35ac01.jpg There are multiple trails in the park that surround the falls. One of them actually takes you underneath a section of the lower falls, and you will get wet. We stayed away from that one. We did take the zillion steps to the top of the falls. There were caves, and some extra cost tour options in those. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...782e4e9c9.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fbe015423.jpeg Most of the way up the trail, there is an observation deck that provides and expansive view of the valley as well as an instagram shot of the falls. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7829ab45f.jpeg At the top, there is a bridge that crosses the canal that rushes water to the falls. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5585e2c93e.jpg There are souvenir shops, snack bars and restaurants at both the top and bottom (more at the bottom). https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9bf59e929.jpeg For the daring, there are rafting opportunities. Hard to believe since these waters were really roaring. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9525b9e33.jpeg To get the best vantage point for photos of all three sections of the falls, there is a hiking trail across the street. It is steep, and that deterred some people and slowed others down such that they were unable to get to the best spot before the water turned to a trickle after 1 pm. Since we had to pass Spoleto, we decided to have lunch there for the third time in a month. After all, our introduction to Umbria began there 21 years ago. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c17753997.jpeg Spoleto lunch In all our trips to Spoleto, we had never seen a small Roman theatre that is sometimes used for performances. In fact, we had no idea where it was. Since this would be our last time in Spoleto this trip, over lunch, we promised to find it. For whatever reason, we had simply not googled its location. We tried grilled lamb at Canasta, and it did not disappoint. And then, my wife spotted a historic sign that showed the Roman theatre. The sign was in the outdoor terrace of the restaurant, literally over my shoulder. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...040f0360fd.jpg I got up and peered through an archway with iron rails right behind me, and, we began to laugh, as there was the elusive Roman theatre. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...66981fa8b.jpeg After lunch, it was time to go to our favorite Spoleto gelato place in the town's best square. As we approached, we encountered some activity. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a3957270c0.jpg I previously mentioned “Don Matteo”, a long running Italian TV show that, in its earlier seasons, was filmed regularly in Gubbio. Father Matteo, a Catholic priest helps a local policeman solve crimes. Amazon shows the first seven seasons, with English sub-titles, all filmed in Gubbio. Eventually, the series moved to Spoleto. And, now some characters, including Don Matteo himself have aged, and he just retired. The series continues this upcoming season without him. When we walked onto a live set in Spoleto, all we saw were young hip actors, and it looked more like a Hallmark movie. We were shushed the second we walked into the square. Some locals were shooting videos on their cell phones, and there were security people yelling at them and the locals were yelling back. Unlike film sets, where numerous takes can take hours for one scene, they jumped around the square shooting various scenes one after the other. Several restaurants and bars were turned into gathering places, and we saw lots of cocktails being made and then tossed out. Always something. |
271 BC??! Incredible. Thanks for another glimpse of Spoleto.
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Beautiful falls, food, Roman theatre, and gelato. What a wonderful way to spend your day. I really have been enjoying your trip.
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I have the cutest picture of my little niece absolutely soaked when we went to Cascata delle Marmore several years ago. Such a fun excursion. Glad you enjoyed it.
We stayed in Spello that trip. Super cute little town, but too small for me (not for my niece, who loved it). I think if I go again I'd choose Spoleto. Umbria has it all! |
TDudette Those Romans were smart cookies. After all, don’t all roads lead there?
Paqngo Great way to spend five weeks and not much more expensive than just being home. Leely2 Perhaps our going to Spello three times on this trip is a hint that this would be our next pick for Umbria. We also prefer bigger. Staying 4 weeks in one place also isn’t our usual style, but definitely our over-reaction to Covid |
Day 30: Citta della Pieve, Sorano, Pitigliano, Porto San Stefano
Over the week-end, we looked at long range weather forecasts for our last week in Italy, and it looked like our nearly four weeks of great weather might be coming to an end. We weighed being in Umbria for the supposed several days of bad weather or going somewhere else, perhaps closer to the sea. (Spoiler alert: The great weather did NOT come to an end).
Although we had our Spello rental booked through most of the week, we decided to cut it short. We had been on Fodor’s, commenting on other threads about Covid travel in Italy. And, we noticed someone was looking for suggestions on where to stay between Rome and Tuscany. I seconded a recommendation on Orvieto, and recall not being fond of another suggestion, Viterbo (although it was raining when we visited there years earlier). But a couple of posters recommended Orbetello, a place we had never heard of. We soon discovered that is one of three towns on a peninsula known as Monte Argentario. We quickly booked three nights there in an airbnb apartment in Porto San Stefano. One of our few splurges on this trip. As we hit four weeks based in Umbria, on the last day, we will visit several places, including one Umbrian village before making our way into Tuscany. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3c2a8548c.jpeg Our first stop, and the last one in Umbria, is a sophisticated feeling little village Citta della Pieve. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ceeb28c044.jpg Outside the walls of this fortified hill town, things were vibrant and looked very inviting. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0806d87d55.jpg A modern looking coffee shop and lunch place in an old place at the village gate was doing a brisk business, with a professional looking and friendly staff. They seemed to know a lot of their clientele. A young woman flashed a welcoming peace sign our way. And, they were obliging. We asked if a croissant was chocolate, and they said no problem. They had a machine that injected various fillings. We hadn’t seen one of those before. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...864033a151.jpg Clay soil in this part of Umbria, in earlier times, was great for brick making, which explains why nearly everything here is made of brick. This is somewhat unusual, since stone was always preferred by nobles. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d92eba87af.jpg This town gets fewer tourists than other places in Umbria and nearby Tuscany, but those who come are often interested in some noted frescoes. We peeked in a couple of churches, and found others closed. We didn’t want to severely delay our journey to the Mediterranean, so we mostly decided to walk the streets. And, we liked what we saw. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d98a174359.jpg There were numerous little touches that showed local pride. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1b21fd4501.jpg And, speaking of pride. The village has one little hard to find place that they are proud of. At the end of this quiet street, there was an older man walking with the aid of two metal canes. He waved one in our direction. Once he had our attention, he then pointed one of the canes perpendicular to the buildings in front of him. We walked down and realized he was gesturing to us to squeeze down a tiny alleyway. Turns out this was the famous Via Della Baciadonna, which many claim to be the narrowest street in Italy. They say you can kiss someone in the opposite window by just leaning out of yours. We would have never found it if it weren’t for this kind man. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7799ec7d38.jpg As we drove into Tuscany, the landscape was gorgeous. Hill towns that we wished we had time to explore. A roadside “picnic” area that seemingly was built out of ruins. Fields and a distant lake. And, virtually zero traffic. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...202a75478.jpeg The main road rolls right by spectacular Sorano. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2858f5e83.jpeg Yes, Sorano was as photogenic as any town we have visited in the last month. Postcard perfect. Some people liken this village to Matera (one of our favorites in all of Italy). And, although we loved Sorano, “You’re not Matera” (to borrow a similar phrase from our old Texan friend Lloyd Bentsen). It is built on what is called tuff rock, which is not “tough” at all. Rather, that is soft porous volcanic rock. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d3b6aaa0e.jpeg Here is another angle of the town. Note the clock tower. To its right is what looks like a long walkway at the top of a fortress. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...abe4783af7.jpg This spacious terrace, Masso Leopoldino, was literally carved out of the tuff rock below and then flattened. It provides the best views in town. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f615fcbc7.jpeg The view from the terrace shows some of the similarity to Matera, with the many caves cut into the rocks. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8913ac8acc.jpg Even though we were anxious to get to the sea, it was difficult not to explore this pretty town. We even thought about lunch, but options were surprisingly minimal. And, it was no wonder, since there were very few other visitors. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...48912af1fc.jpg We did make our way to the castle, the Orsini fortess. It is very dramatic, and, again, we were the only ones there. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9216299d7.jpeg Pitigliano Just when we thought we had seen perhaps the best looking medieval village of our trip, we reached the dramatic Pitigliano. Wow. Another village sitting on a ridge of tuff rock. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f2c12e0230.jpg There was much to see, and we hardly scratched the surface. Our biggest miss was not seeing the old Jewish synagogue, since this town at one time was known as Little Jerusalem, a haven for Jews fleeing Rome. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2a9ca6b38f.jpg Except for a couple of lunch places, it was fairly quiet here as well. We did see a few Americans, so apparently they were still traveling to Tuscany. A sleepy dog blocked the entrance to the Palazzo Orsini, one of the more popular places to visit. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ce90584fb2.jpg We did see Chiesa di Santa Maria e San Rocco, the oldest church in town. Maybe from the 12th century, its altar proudly bears the coats of arms of the town’s rulers and includes a Medici. Also, it had a timely modern concession with holy sanitizer. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5b0409bd1b.jpg The main square was busy for lunch, so we chose an out of the way place with Covid seating on a little lane. We usually share our food, and one of our dishes was a lamb stew. A plate full of meat wasn’t what we expected, but boy was it tender and tasty. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e1a19c18e.jpeg I previously noted the Italian fascination with Betty Boop, so I guess it’s not just my imagination. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...07d6b18a0.jpeg The city has an underground city of sorts, dating back to Etruscan times. Lots of caves in different places. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...70b55e9e6.jpeg As we departed, we vowed to come back. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1c4bf3aef6.jpg As we entered the Maremma area of southern Tuscany, we had to stop and take photos of these signature cypress tree against a backdrop of recently cut hay. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aa805f0f2.jpeg Finally, we reached the Mediterranean. OK, technically they call this area the Tyrrhenian Sea. But it was another gorgeous day (the weather guys don’t get it right here either). https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fc6d8ecca1.jpg To best understand the geography of Monte Argentario, we found something in our old photos that was better than a drone shot. In 2012, we were leaving Rome for home and happened to take this photo from our airplane window, not knowing where it was. It is the Monte Argentario peninsula, showing the three causeways that connect it to the mainland. The arrows show the three towns on the peninsula. We entered on the left causeway between the red and black arrows. The black arrow shows Orbetello, which is wholly located on one of the causeways. The yellow arrow is the quiet Porto Ercole. And, the red arrow marks our destination, Porto San Stefano. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ddd886dcc6.jpg Porto San Stefano As we soon discovered, the three villages of this peninsula are all very different. Our airbnb was up a very narrow (seemingly built more for mopeds) road on the side of a hill overlooking the busy port town. The ferries, car and passenger, make regular trips to Giglio Island, made famous nine years earlier in that Costa cruise ship disaster. Great views from our apartment, and dinner downtown was even closer to the boats. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f58ec8dba.jpeg Beautiful night. All the windows open. Nice to be on the water. |
Day 31: Porto San Stefano, Porto Ercole, and Orbetello
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...67df84b52.jpeg
What a beautiful porch to wake up to this morning. What did the weatherman say again? And Umbria weather looks just as nice. Today, we wanted to look at the differences in the three towns of Monte Argentario. Perhaps to see if we made the right pick on where to stay. It was only about a 15-minute drive between the two most distant villages, Porto San Stefano, where our apartment is, and Porto Ercole. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...51aac8ef0.jpeg Since we parked uphill from the seafront Porto Ercole, we decided to first walk up to the castle that is situated above the town. After we paid for parking, we discovered we could have driven up to the castle, where there are a few spaces, and we passed a few people on bicycles. It wasn’t a long hike, but we took extra time to view the stunning coastline. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f0b6457068.jpg This stretch holds the best of the area’s beaches, some of which are operated as businesses with restaurants and private beach accesses. Just beyond is a hotel that has hosted many celebrities. This area is popular, not only for its beauty and privacy, but because of its close proximity to Rome. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bea3d54e55.jpg The Spanish Rocca or fortress is large, but, to our dismay, is closed and, although we couldn’t see inside, there were signs suggesting that the property is now a low rise condo community. Online, it looks like a beautiful project. Perhaps an airbnb there the next time so we can see it? https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a87f679799.jpg Porto Ercole The old town of Port Ercole is compact and somewhat newer looking, probably due to rebuilding after being damaged in WWII bombing. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...abe7a14aa.jpeg To see the village, it’s all up and down, mostly steep stairs, leading to a garden area and the ramparts of the old fortress above. I mentioned the Italian artist Caravaggio previously. He got into a fight in Rome in the early 1600's, and someone was killed. He fled possible murder charges and went to Malta, where we have seen his paintings in the past. Later, he would return to Italy via this area; and he died here, maybe of lead poisoning or even malaria, and maybe on a beach below the town.There are a lot of maybes, but the town has adopted Caravaggio as a sort of favorite son. Despite this murky connection, his name and photo appear on signage and on paths through the old town. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3c15bf61d.jpeg Porto Ercole for many years was largely a fishing village, and, still has some fishermen. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f026df6c7.jpg The fishing boats are well outnumbered by pleasure craft in the current more resort-like atmosphere. Scuba diving and boat rentals also are quite popular here. There are several restaurants along what we found to be a very quiet waterfront on a gorgeous late summer day. Of the three towns, this one is definitely the chic and most peaceful one. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e095853b8c.jpg Orbetello Halfway between here and Porto San Stefano, where we are staying, is what I call a wide causeway that, as I posted before, links this former island to the mainland. This “causeway” is often referred to as a “lagoon”. This man-made barrier was built, at least in part by the Etruscans in the 5th century B.C. The stone work, or stone walls, that protect the lagoon is an obvious remnant of the Etruscan activity. The symbol of Orbetello is the Spanish Mill windmill that sits in the water. This is the last surviving one built in the 14-1500’s when Spain controlled the area. There were 9 of these mills used to grind wheat for food. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...df7e7fe092.jpg For those arriving from the mainland, there is a city gate that includes two narrow car tunnels. This bus made it, but I doubt buses were part of the planning mix when this Etruscan “Medina Gate” was first built over 2500 years ago. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c155fac226.jpg Attached to the main gate are walls that announce the entrance to an old airport. Seemed like an odd spot, so we looked this up. This was a noted Italian seaplane base in the 1920’s, and later was the launch site of several famed transatlantic flights, including Italy’s first ever. It also gained fame for a flight from Orbetello to the Century of Progress in Chicago in 1933. Later, it was a Luftwaffe base for Nazis, until the US Air Force seized it and used it as one of its D-Day bases. After the war, it became farmland. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...55d084b4c1.jpg We had lunch in a terrace at Per Piacere, against a side wall to the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. We thought this would be an ideal town to try some fish and got the table-side de-boning service. It was very fresh and delicious. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...666c254891.jpg The cathedral itself seemed very simple to us, and most of the photos we took were of a bright, full of sea blue, side altar. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e79b349b82.jpg The small main altar didn’t impress us. Of course, we have been in many gorgeous churches the last several weeks, so our expectations are fairly high. It was built over an Etruscan temple and goes back to 1375. The front steps of the Cathedral lead to a Mexican restaurant, a rather large one in a boxy looking building. And, this is one of those restaurants with color photos of the menu items. Maybe they need that, since Mexican restaurants seem to be a rare breed in Italy. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8f604cd39f.jpg These photos were pulled down from the internet So, okay. Orbetello Cathedral. Ho hum. Or so we thought. Only a few days later, while in Rome, we were looking at Daily Mail online. There was the Cathedral we had just visited three days earlier. Someone apparently was impressed. A royal wedding. Princess Maria Anunciata of Liechtenstein wed an American there, with lots of royalty from Liechtenstein and Luxembourg. And the official photos even showed a part of that boxy Mexican restaurant. We couldn't find anything on the connection between these royals and this lesser known area of Italy. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...96a0d1d80d.jpg After lunch, things were quiet in this village of vibrant colored buildings. We were able to get gelato, but the many shops were closed for siesta. Our overall reaction is that this was the best medieval town here, but it does not take advantage of its seafront location at all.The waterfront is largely reserved for cars, with one way roads on each side of the lagoon. For that reason, it was our least favorite. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8b0094acc.jpeg We returned to Porto San Stefano, just as the car ferry from Giglio Island was returning. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1a3a72d8e.jpeg We left our car at our apartment and decided on a walking tour of the town. The arrow shows the location of our apartment. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b359aa62fe.jpg Our apartment overlooks the first of two harbors in this town. The first one has more commercial boats and the ferries, although there also are some high end yachts in both harbors. Around the corner, the second harbor is all pleasure craft. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e20c1935ed.jpg This second harbor has many restaurants along the waterfront. There is a mixture of newer and old here. The bottom photo on the left shows an old fort that stands in the middle of the oldest section of the village. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a0dbab212d.jpg This second harbor also leads to the extremely minuscule beach areas available on this side of the peninsula. The opposite area of the island has the dramatic and larger, and often difficult to access, beach areas. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e43e199ee.jpeg We headed toward the fort to see it before it closed for the day. On the way up, behind us, a small van was literally hopping its way up the old stone stairs before stopping when a moped was in its way. They got out and looked like they were just going home. We know that parking is in limited supply here, but we wondered about the van’s suspension system. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6a5af2e058.jpg Foretzza Spagnola Porto Santo Stefano, built by Spanish from late 1500’s into the early 1600’s, served in military conflicts up to and including WWII. It is now a museum with a very friendly staff. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...25ffe5dfa0.jpg There are two large retail fish stores on the waterfront with lots of seafood variety. Four guys cutting fish right out front. And, they are open into the evening. |
More new and interesting places, whitehall. Thank you.
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Thank you so much for taking me back to Orbetello, whitehall. i suspect that I was one of those who mentioned it favourably and I'm so glad that you enjoyed the area, if not so much Orbetello itself. For me it was an ideal place for a week, and not only because I was attending a language school there, though that was a lot of it. I loved the ancient feel of the town, the fact that it didn't make that much of the waterfront, the lack [then] of rampant tourism. It was also an ideal base for touring which was organised through the school, and took us to Porto Ercole, Pitigliano, Massa Maritima, the hot springs at Saturnia, and lots of other places the names of which are lost in the midsts of time.
<< had lunch in a terrace at Per Piacere, against a side wall to the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. We thought this would be an ideal town to try some fish and got the table-side de-boning service. It was very fresh and delicious.>> I can imagine. We didn't eat there but for future reference just outside the walls there is a restaurant run as a cooperative by the local fisherman which was terrific. |
TDudette Italy literally has hundreds of such places, so the material is endless.
annhig Yes, it was YOUR recommendation to go to Orbetello. So, thank you very much for that. Your words are obviously powerful. Orbetello is a nice place. I merely was comparing it to two other places and what we were looking for in a place to stay. We wanted to look at the sea.You also suggested Porto Ercole as an alternative, and we might have personally preferred that if we could have found a good last minute rental there. |
Loving the report; thanks; enjoying the photos too. So enjoy Umbria, especially Assisi, Spello, and Perugia.
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Originally Posted by whitehall
(Post 17303005)
TDudette Italy literally has hundreds of such places, so the material is endless.
annhig Yes, it was YOUR recommendation to go to Orbetello. So, thank you very much for that. Your words are obviously powerful. Orbetello is a nice place. I merely was comparing it to two other places and what we were looking for in a place to stay. We wanted to look at the sea.You also suggested Porto Ercole as an alternative, and we might have personally preferred that if we could have found a good last minute rental there. Looking forward to seeing where you go next! |
Day 32: Monte Argentario (Porto San Stefano to Porto Ercole)
The entire peninsula, where we are staying, is known as Monte Argentario. The day before, we drove on the well-travelled roads between the three villages. Today's journey will be a little different.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...97a11c84e1.jpg Monte Argentario from our airplane window 2012 For our last full day here, we decided to drive between Porto San Stefano and Porto Ercole, this time via the more remote parts of the peninsula, traveling along the west side down to the south side. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7087008e65.jpg Once we left our busy port town, traffic thinned to a trickle. We started to see some great views of neighboring islands, and there were some scenic pullovers. We could see to the bottom of the clear azure blue waters We stopped at scenic overlooks two or three times before noticing two other European tourists doing the same thing. Those were the only other cars on this road, which started out paved. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2936390f94.jpg We had read that this peninsula was a quiet refuge for the rich and famous. Queen Juliana of the Netherlands at one time had a large villa here, as well as many well-known Italian celebrities and successful business people. So, we weren’t surprised to begin seeing sumptuous villas here with a wide open view of Giglio Island. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...471ee9018b.jpg Costa Concordia from our airport window 2012 On the right side of Giglio island, which faces Monte Argentario, in January 2012, the Costa Concordia cruise ship went aground, due to a Captain’s recklessness, and 32 passengers perished as the ship capsized and sank. Four months later, from an airplane window, we captured this photo of Giglio Island with the Costa ship (arrow) still on its side. It was 16 more months before it was brought upright and another 7 months before it was re-floated and moved. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fb2a5365bd.jpg We passed the driveways for many beautiful estates, with stone walls, wrought iron gates, swimming pools built into the rocks and even an address plate that included a painting of its villa. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d87a5dc4b9.jpg We saw signs for a vineyard and olive oil outlet and followed the signs down a dark and winding and very narrow road that seemed endless. There were turns so sharp that they required a mirror. This one was so tight, and with such a limited sight line, we honked our horn coming and going before noticing the sign with the cross over the horn. Ooops. They must get that a lot. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...50fa1c6d2.jpeg There are ruins of several old forts and castles of Spanish rulers from the Middle Ages. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2761e87c1.jpeg The vistas began to be more reminiscent of the Amalfi coast, a wilder version, definitely without the tourists. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...da5975221.jpeg The views are distracting for the driver. Roads are narrowing with lots of hairpin turns. Not enough room for two vehicles, especially larger ones. We completed a long descent and are surprised to pass one of the tourists we saw with Netherlands plates. Looks like they turned back. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7100760363.jpg Actual sign and as seen using Google Translate We came upon a large sign and stopped, along with one car driven by an Italian man. His wife spoke a little English, and they stood with us contemplating our options Neither one of us wanted to go back up that awful hill we had just come down. Buy we translated the sign on our phone. Going any further meant we were trespassing. The translated words were clear: Private Property. No access allowed. “Dossi” which we later determined means “bumps” on the whole route. Narrow street. Dangerous curves. The Italian driver finally turned to his wife and said in Italian what sounded like “F……it….Andiamo” And we followed them. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c07fb00fa.jpeg In a short distance, we came upon a large parking lot, and saw beach goers headed to the water. At this point, we realized we had the chance to head back, on a different road, away from the water, to Porto San Stefano. This is how all these beach goers must have reached here. The Italian motorist turned at that point. We were now alone. We pulled over to soak in the scenery. To this day, we are surprised how one of the most beautiful tracts of coastline in Italy, two hours to Rome, is virtually inaccessible. People drive almost double that time from Rome to sit in bumper to bumper traffic for similar sights on the Amalfi coast. What a tourist goldmine this could be. But then the environmentalist in me says we are certainly glad they have largely left it alone. It was such a beautiful day, and the views were so magnificent, we decided to keep on. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2a4f14bf9.jpeg More anxiety and pause with additional warning signs. Landslide danger. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...34856c479.jpeg Dead Sea: A beach for those coming on that other road And then we see the word “morto,” another bad sign. However, in this case, we learned later, this Dead Sea got its name because it is a protected rocky beach with calm waters. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...220ec22e9.jpeg We came across a group of mountain bikers from Germany at an unusually wide spot in the gravel road. They designated one of them to be their spokesman since he was the only one who spoke English. They told us that the road was ok for bikes but was very rough for the next seven kilometers, and we “might” make it if we drive at extreme slow speeds. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...58724a723.jpeg At this point, we saw two other vehicles ahead of us. They both stopped ahead, and the car turned back. We conferred with the couple with a small motorhome van. They were from Germany, and we advised what the bikers told us. They allowed us to go first, followed for a little bit, and then we never saw them again. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bf9b8ed800.jpg Three more warning signs. Bumpy road. Landslides. And one with just an exclamation point. You don’t want to move over to get too close to that sign. It’s straight down. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fdf6e88558.jpg It was slow going, and, of course, no other vehicles (thankfully). The views almost made it all worth it. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8117f8e345.jpg Signs of rock slides and washouts truly made the ride, mostly at 10-15 mph, very bumpy. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5dcc675f1.jpeg As we ready for the last 4 km, one more sign. This one came already translated. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cc7f781b0.jpeg One last photo of the great views. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f95c582c6.jpeg We finally reached Porto Ercole. Another quiet day there. We were thinking the guys who rented boats had a really good life under their tent all day. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b9bc7f4fd.jpeg We also saw this “Born Again” Chris Craft in a boat shed. We see a lot of these in the Finger lakes region when we visit our son there. What we could not figure out is how they got it there, on the trailer with New York plates. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eac140bb7.jpeg Porto Ercole And finally, a Prosecco toast to our car for making the road we probably should not have taken. |
Amazing photos! You are much braver than us - we would have turned back at the German cyclists.
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Wow, that was quite a trip. Reminded me of some of the roads we found in Sicily a few years ago, not to mention the drive along the south of Crete on a road that the map indicated existed but in reality was several steps short of completion. Still it makes quite a story!
<<We pulled over to soak in the scenery. To this day, we are surprised how one of the most beautiful tracts of coastline in Italy, two hours to Rome, is virtually inaccessible. People drive almost double that time from Rome to sit in bumper to bumper traffic for similar sights on the Amalfi coast. What a tourist goldmine this could be. But then the environmentalist in me says we are certainly glad they have largely left it alone. It was such a beautiful day, and the views were so magnificent, we decided to keep on.>> When I was there [which from the date you give for the Costa Concordia accident must have been exactly 10 years ago, but in May] I was told that the area was very popular with weekending Romans as it's only 150 kms away or so, though I didn't see any of them. Whether they get anywhere near to the area you so bravely explored I don't know. |
Jackie44 We wished we had turned back multiple times during those 45 minutes it took us to go those 7 km ( a little over 4 miles).
annhig We have driven in Sicily, but I don't recall roads like this one. We plan to go back to Sicily in May, so you never know. The only danger we experienced driving in Sicily was the sketchy gas station guy in Trapani, who, after we filled the tank, wouldn't take a credit card and insisted my last 50 was counterfeit. Fortunately, we were able to go through the car and scrape up just enough to pay the fuel bill. We aren't sure if he switched 50's (there was a lot of activity between him and a guy in a car after I gave him the bill) and gave me a fake bill; or if he had something else in mind, like trying to seize our car, or some other belongings, for the otherwise unpaid bill. It was a little unsettling. |
Originally Posted by whitehall
(Post 17303191)
Jackie44 We wished we had turned back multiple times during those 45 minutes it took us to go those 7 km ( a little over 4 miles).
annhig We have driven in Sicily, but I don't recall roads like this one. We plan to go back to Sicily in May, so you never know. The only danger we experienced driving in Sicily was the sketchy gas station guy in Trapani, who, after we filled the tank, wouldn't take a credit card and insisted my last 50 was counterfeit. Fortunately, we were able to go through the car and scrape up just enough to pay the fuel bill. We aren't sure if he switched 50's (there was a lot of activity between him and a guy in a car after I gave him the bill) and gave me a fake bill; or if he had something else in mind, like trying to seize our car, or some other belongings, for the otherwise unpaid bill. It was a little unsettling. |
Originally Posted by annhig
(Post 17303201)
Sorry to hear about your unsettling experience; luckily we missed anything like that, our problems were with the state of some of the roads not the nefarious intentions of the locals. I wonder what his reaction would have been if you'd said you were calling the police - though I always think of doing those sorts of things far to late. Anyway I look forward to finding out where you plan to go, and will be very happy to share our experiences with you if you think that might be useful .
Thank you on Sicily. We plan to spend a few days in a little hill town, where my grandfather came from (we were there only once for an hour). We have based in Taormina, Ortiga, Trapani and Palermo in the past. However, as we discovered in Umbria, you can go there many times, and there always is something new. Due to Covid, we canceled a trip last year that included southern Calabria (we've been in the north) and Sicily (to include Modica and Ragusa and Caltagirone among others). |
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