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Two weeks in the Upper Engadine/Sils - Ingo's Trip Report

Two weeks in the Upper Engadine/Sils - Ingo's Trip Report

Old Jul 18th, 2008, 08:03 AM
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Two weeks in the Upper Engadine/Sils - Ingo's Trip Report

Back from 14 days in beautiful Engadin, Switzerland. I promised to write a trip report - here we go. I also promised to post pictures, but please bear with me: I took about 1000 photos and have yet to decide which to post. Haven't even watched all of them myself. Besides, I don't know yet where to post. Suggestions are welcome!

Accommodation: four star Hotel Edelweiss, Sils-Maria, highly recommended! www.hotel-edelweiss.ch
I booked through www.neckermann.de and got a very good rate, less expensive than directly. Included in the rate were breakfast buffet, five-course dinner and some extras like free admission to the Nietzsche museum next door, one free admission to the pool area of a neighbouring hotel, a special dinner in the Fex Valley, hotel activities like wine tasting, free mountain bikes (!) - and all the cable cars/gondolas in the Upper Engadin were included!

The location is right in the centre of the small village Sils-Maria, 12 km from St. Moritz. A charming, quiet village, excellent public transportation (bus) connections to any place in the Engadin. The hotel is right on the "Main street", LOL, a cul-de-sac, frequented by pedestrians, horse-drawn carriages, few buses and occasional arriving/departing tourists with their cars. The hotel has a van and takes you to/picks you up at the railway station in St. Moritz upon request for free (for arrival/departure only). Parking is free.

The hotel was built in 1876, a couple of times re-designed, and has kept its old-world charm. The lobby is large, with open fireplace, lots of comfy seatings and a bar. Adjoining you find a room with large TV. Small a-la-carte restaurant (Arvenstübli) - very cosy, typical wood-panelled walls and wooden furniture. The dining hall is awesome Art Nouveau style (original) with pillars, high ceiling, frescos etc. Breakfast buffet and five-course dinner are served there. The hotel has a small "wellness" area in the basement: jacuzzi, steam bath, sauna. WLAN access is free in the lobby, with a charge in the rooms. Using the computer in the lobby is with a charge.

My room was a single, probably the smallest available in the hotel. But no complaint here, it was a cosy room with all the comfort needed and expected in a four-star hotel and also nicely furbished (wood). The bathroom had 1970s charm, but again, no complaining - it even had a bath tub.

The double room was spacious, really spacious, on the upper floor. No particular view, though (to the back, mostly woods), but very quiet. Rooms to the front have beautiful mountain views but you hear the Fex creek right in front of the hotel if you open the window - if it is raining a lot that can be quite a noise! Again, the room was nicely decorated, lots of wood, the bathroom beautifully renovated with large shower stall and all the amenities you expect. Everything was spotless clean as usual in Switzerland.

The staff was extremely competent, friendly and helpful. They went out of their way to help us, e. g. when we had problems with the car (reception) or whenever we didn't like the food on the menu (e.g. dessert, I got ice cream with a selection of berries instead of a mousse with rhubarb). Also, it was a very familiar atmosphere. Granted, it might have to do with the fact that we stayed two weeks, but we really felt like at home.

Food was very, very good. Breakfast buffet had the usual stuff, several sorts of rolls, croissants, variety of bread, cereals, yoghurts, a variety of jams, honey, nutella, smoked salmon with horse-radish, dried meat (Bündner Fleisch), ham, salsiz (sort of salami), a selection of cheese, boiled eggs, bacon and eggs ... five sorts of juice or you chose to squeeze your orange juice yourself, coffee, milk, tea (you could choose from about 18 sorts of tea - loose, not in tea bags - and prepare it yourself) ... and so on. Every morning a paper waited on your desk, giving information about the weather and activities. Nice.

Dinner was also served in the beautiful dining hall. Very stylish with silverware, thick white table cloth, brioche and butter waiting for you. Five course: appetizers (two choices), soup/consommé, salad buffet, main course (choice between meat, fish and vegetarian), dessert. Like I said before, if you absolutely didn't like something you could get something else. Also, a selection of cheese and fruits were always available. Tap water was free, prices for soda, wine and beer were moderate. The wine was excellent, btw! If you decide not to have dinner one or more nights they write off 25 Sfr. from your bill. You can e.g. eat at the "Arvenstübli", the a-la-carte restaurant (we didn't, regret that now).

We arrived Wednesday, 2 July, on a sunny day. It was late afternoon, so no activities that day except dining and off to bed.
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Old Jul 18th, 2008, 08:07 AM
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Okay, read it over: The paper waited on the table, not on the desk. My poor English.

Wanted to add that the maid put up the bed every evening while we were down for dinner and put a piece of delicious chocolate on the headboard. Very nice.
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Old Jul 18th, 2008, 11:46 AM
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Thursday, 3 July

Cloudy, windy weather. No need to rush things when staying 2 weeks - thank god. We did a walk around the peninsula Chasté following the footsteps of Friedrich Nietzsche, enjoyed occasional rays of sun and the views of the lake, rested on some benches every now and then. At the end of the peninsula we found the so called "Nietzsche-Stein", a rock with the inscription of some famous words from his Zarathustra. It's a magical place, even if it's windy and cold.

After some strolling through the small village we were back in the hotel by early afternoon. Had a hot chocolate and a piece of the famous local nut cake in the lobby, right in front of the open fireplace. Outside nature reminded us of its power with a huge thunderstorm. I went to the public library later for a few minutes in the internet (10 minutes free) and borrowed some books (deposit for each 10 Sfr.).

Like every Thursday the hotel had a "Diner en concert" that night. What a treat! Six course dinner, accompanied by classical music. The "Candle Light Orchestra" (piano, two violins) played works of Vivaldi, Händel, Johann Strauss e.g. I won't go into details of the regular dinners, but this gala dinner is worth to mention: carpaccio of salmon and scallops with spinach salad and orange gravy / tomato consommé / red mullet on thai asparagus with pepper sauce / Lambrusco sorbet / beef filet with almond gravy, rosemary-dauphin potatoes and vegetable bouquet / black mousse au chocolat with berries from the woods. We had a bottle of Swiss white wine from the canton Vaud (Aigle).

Friday, 4 July

Unpleasant surprise when we wanted to start for the hike: the car battery was empty. I called the insurance company in Germany and they promised to send a service guy. In the meantime we walked around Sils and along the lake visited the alpine flower garden on the small hill vis-a-vis the hotel. An hour later the car service arrived, started the car and we folled him with our car in order to recharge the battery in his workshop in Maloja.

It was early enough to hike from Maloja to Lake Cavloc. We saw a German film team right outside Maloja. They had four bears starring in the film and my mother was fascinated That caused a major delay in the hike ... anyway, an hour later we arrived at the lake and were stunned. Absolutely beautiful! The alpine roses were in full bloom, the lake was surrounded by large rocks, beach-like parts with sand and Swiss Pine trees. A mountain hut/restaurant sits on a cliff above the lake, the partly snow-capped mountains tower up above the lake ... a gorgeous and peaceful scenery.

We walked back a different path, picked up the car at the garage and drove back to Sils. That evening a dessert buffet was on the agenda. You can imagine we were stuffed after four courses and the selection of mousse au chocolate (white was my favourite), ice cream, fruits, peacock pieces in gelee ... delicious.
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Old Jul 18th, 2008, 12:12 PM
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Great detail. Thanks for a lovely report start. Looking forward to more.
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Old Jul 18th, 2008, 12:28 PM
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STOP!!! ouch!! oUUUch!

This just hurts too much.

***

Nah, go ahead. I guess a vicarious trip is better than none at all. I'm tough; I can take it!

***

Sounds lovely! I'm so jealous!

s
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Old Jul 19th, 2008, 01:04 AM
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Thanks for the comments. S, sorry, no intention to hurt you ;-) So you're saying I better don't post pictures? <evil grin>

Saturday, 5 July

Shock when I tried to start the car engine. Nada. Nothing. More telephone calls ... since it was Saturday we agreed that the service guy would look after the car on Monday morning. In the meantime public transportation was the way to go. We took the bus to St. Moritz and from there the funicular to Corviglia plus cable car to Piz Nair (3025 m). It is an excellent skiing area and less popular for hiking - the views are very scenic, but not comparable to Diavolezza, Muottas Muragl or so. Anyway, we hiked down to Suvretta Pass (2615 m) and its small lake. Mostly boulders on this first leg of the hike, but very beautiful alpine flowers were in bloom along the path. It became greener from the lake on down the Suvretta valley (which my mother liked VERY much). We also noticed that this must be a bikers paradise - lots of them despite the rocky path <shaking head> We took the turn to Alp Suvretta (cows grazing, bells ringing, lovely!) and to the top station of the chair-lift. Hopped on the chair lift, down to Chasellas (marvelled at the houses of the rich and famous at the Suvretta hill), walked down to the bus stop Somplaz and after ten minutes were in the bus back to Sils.

Sunday, 6 July

Ugly weather the entire day. Rain, rain ... and rain. No problem, though. We made use of the free entrance to the Nietzsche house next door. Though not really fans of the guy we enjoyed reading the original scripts, viewed the old photos, saw the original interior. An hour later we strolled through the village (the hotel provided large umbrellas), window shopping, buying postcards and souvenirs. Back to the hotel, lounging in a comfy armchair in the lobby near the open fireplace, having another chocolate, reading ...

At 4.30 pm the weekly Sils Sunday concert started in the church - the Piano Quartet Sils played works of Gounod (Faust Waltz), the ouverture to Gilbert & Sullivan's "Mikado", works of Dvorak, J. Strauss and Ravel and the suite from Donizetti's "Daughter of the Regiment". The quality of the performance was excellent - quite a surprise in a tiny village in the Alps! Enjoyed it tremendously.


Monday, 7 July

A repeat of the previous day weather wise. Rain, rain and more rain. First I had to deal with the darn car, though. Made an appointment for 9.30 am, after breakfast - this time the service guy loaded my car on his truck and took it to his garage for some serious checks. He suspected the battery was broken (and he was right as I found out later). Ok, more relaxing. That meant time in the jacuzzi, sauna and steambath down in the hotel's basement. Nice, though not expected in summer. The attempt of a walk in the woods behind the hotel ended in a disaster. High grass, which was wet, the water dripped from the trees, the ground was muddy. Brrrr.

In the afternoon the local tourism office invited for a guided village walking tour - skipped this one due to the rain - and an apéro afterwards (a glass of wine) in the small Robbi museum (enjoyed it, pictures of the local painters Robbi and Giovanoli) where a lady provided information about Sils, the Engadine, the mountains and the activities.

Funny thing is that the hotel also had a welcome apéro (chose a glass of prosecco) that evening. Also very enjoyable, a nice get-together in the lobby. The good news that evening was that I heard from the car garage - the problem was really the battery, it was replace and everything worked fine.
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Old Jul 19th, 2008, 04:13 AM
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Oh, Ingo, such a nice surprise to read the report so soon. I thought you might not feel up to it until I was knee-deep in school prep. I'll look forward to photographs of the lakes you discovered. Frescoes?
J.
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Old Jul 19th, 2008, 04:31 AM
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Ingo must have been knee-deep in hot chocolate there...
Nooooo, I'm not jealous at all! ;-)
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Old Jul 19th, 2008, 04:41 AM
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Just checked the other thread. No guilt about the frescoes. Lakes, mountains, and local architecture will be delightful.

Someday when you retire, perhaps you could publish a book called "The Church Frescoes of Germany, Switzerland, and Austria." Or perhaps not limited to churches; that could be one chapter, along with chapters on exterior trompe l'eoils, residential, public buildings. I'll purchase your first copy. Did I ever ask you about that tiny painted church in Fussen? Forgive the diversion. Hi, S!
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Old Jul 19th, 2008, 04:52 AM
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Thanks for the trip report. Sorry about the bad weather but at least you could enjoy the wellness area in your hotel.

"Biker's Paradise"

I think you can go up to any hikeable mountain nowadays and you'll be amazed at the amount of bikers you'll see. They are everywhere!

I know because my husband is one of them.
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Old Jul 19th, 2008, 05:31 AM
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>Someday when you retire, perhaps you could publish a book called "The Church Frescoes of Germany, Switzerland, and Austria." Or perhaps not limited to churches; that could be one chapter, along with chapters on exterior trompe l'eoils, residential, public buildings.

With an art historian as co-author, maybe? I'm herewith applying.
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Old Jul 19th, 2008, 05:39 AM
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quokka, no kidding? Is this serendipity or what? My MFA is painting; perhaps I could just write the introduction, or a bit here and there about color, composition, or the basics of trompe l'eoil?

I've already got the second book in mind: Cemetery Sculptures of Germany, Austria, and Switzerland.
Now, all we need is a publisher. J.
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Old Jul 19th, 2008, 07:02 AM
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Well I could talk to the publisher I usually work with...

It will take some decades till Ingo retires, though.
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Old Jul 19th, 2008, 08:47 AM
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I'm so glad to read about your latest adventure, Ingo! It's been too long since you've revisited your favorite place. (Your opera review was marvelous too!)
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Old Jul 19th, 2008, 09:03 AM
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Grasshopper, good to hear from you! Thanks for the comment.

schuler, you're saying your hubby is one of those who have fun carrying their bike over boulders and snow fields 2/3rd of the path? Urgh. That's no fun for me. But it's fun to watch ;-)

quokka and jw: You folks are the experts. I'm just an interested observer. My contribution to the book would be small. I volunteer to do the hikes to the remote churches in the Alps ;-)

Btw, not only knee deep in hot chocolate. LOL Also ankle deep in cold mountain lake water, almost drowned in too much wine. But the hot chocolate was my favourite, I will gladly admit that.

And here comes more of the trip report, including some highlights (and a low) of the trip:

Tuesday, 8 July

Beautiful weather that day. Sunny, mild, not too warm. Took the bus to Maloja, picked up the car in the garage and drove down the Maloja pass to Vicosoprano in the Bregaglia valley. This beautiful village is mostly overlooked by tourists since everyone heads to Soglio. Through centuries it has been (and still is as far as I know) the administrative centre of the valley. It is very authentic, only two (nice looking) hotels with restaurants, a few small shops/grocery, a dairy ... and some historic sights like a two churches (not too exciting, but nice), an old town hall (pretorio, free) and plenty of picturesque narrow cobbled alleys, old houses etc.

Next stop was Borgonovo with the famous cemetery where the some members of the Giacometti family are buried (Remember the guys? Alberto, Augusto, Diego?)

Then we drove to Promontogno and parked the car. We walked 15 minutes to Bondo, the neighbouring and also often overlooked village. It is similar to Vicosoprano and maybe even more beautiful/picturesque. It definitely has a more southern (Italian) ambience while Vicosoprano can't deny it is located in the mountains. Which is a surprise since Bondo doesn't get any direct sunlight in winter for approx. two months - the mountains south of it are too tall and close. Anyway, we were slightly surprised how many locals were on the streets, walking in the direction of the village's centre like we did. All of them in dark clothes, mostly black. Then the church bells started ringing ... we turned around a corner and saw a funeral procession; right then the casket was carried to the cemetery behind the church. It seemed everyone who lived in the village attended the funeral. Very moving. The cemetery and the church were not large enough; people stood in the neighbouring alleys. We joined for some minutes and said a silent prayer for the poor soul, then retreated to the small main square where we sat down and waited for the funeral to end. It went on and on, so I strolled through the shut down village and took photos. Like Soglio Bondo has a Palazzo that belongs to the Salis family, only this one is private, not open to the public. I got a good view of the beautiful garden, though. Finally the funeral was over and we found out that a 24 years old guy had committed suicide. Bummer. We didn't want to disturb the mourning friends and family so we didn't visit the church - too bad, it's well-known for the medieval frescos.

Walked back to Promontogno, hopped in the car, drove back to Coltura where we visited Palazzo Castelmur - not too exciting, rather a ludicrous example of a foreign architecture in a valley in the mountains. Quite interesting exhibit inside, though, about the pastry-cooks from Grisons who had cafes all over Europe in the 18th/19th century. Btw, that's where the money came from for building this palazzo. Driving back to Sils ... endless hairpin curves at the Maloja Pass. Oh what fun is a bus ride vs. driving!

That night we had a special dinner in the Fex Valley. Instead of the half-board dinner in our hotel we opted for the dinner with local specialties in the restaurant Fex Crasta. We were picked up by horse-drawn carriage at the hotel - unlike I had assumed the ride was not included (no complaint here), but we gladly paid the 30 Sfr. per person round trip. We liked the carriage ride a lot - very quiet at that time in the Fex Valley, the weather co-operated as well. Mr. Roethlisberger, the young hotel manager, came along and we enjoyed talking with him very much. First course was a plate with salsiz, dried meat, pickled onions and pumpkin, beautifully arranged. Main course was Pizzocheri (buck wheat pasta) and dessert was ice cream - everything was fantastic. Mr. Roethlisberger chose a Pinot Noir from Grisons which was delicious, too. At last he treated us to a wonderful grappa. Great meal!

Wednesday, 9 July

Woke up to a sunny day again. Yay! The hotel staff made reservations for us for the tiny Postal bus from Sfazu to Lungacqua in the Val da Camp, beyond Bernina Pass, for 11.05 am. Unfortunately we missed the bus by 3 minutes - learned the hard way that the Swiss buses are right on time. My excuse as the driver is that I *had* to stop at the famous Montebello curve when I saw a Bernina Express train approaching. Took amazing photos with the train plus Morteratsch glacier and Piz Bernina in the background. The light was perfect that morning. That only took 5 minutes - more time took the slow drivers in front of me and the road works at the Bernina Pass road. Had to wait two times at red lights, about 7-8 minutes each.

Anyway, missing the Postal bus meant we had to hike all the way from the restaurant Sfazu up into the valley. Urgh. Had visited the valley some years ago and found it to be VERY beautiful. This time I had hoped to get as far as the second, upper lake - Lago di Val Viola. Chances were small with the missed bus, though. The start of the hike is very exhausting - steep ascent from Sfazu (1640 m) to the first hamlet, Salva (1800 m). We arrived at the Swiss Alpine Club hut "Rifugio Saoseo" (1985) at 1.15 pm which was too late for the hike to the upper lake. So we decided not to rush things, had a Grison barley soup, then headed to Lake Saoseo (2028 m). I had seen it on the hike some years ago and knew it is beautiful, but this time the weather was better and I had more time to spend at the lake.

The lake is amazingly beautiful. The water is crystal clear, the colour changes between deep blue to turquoise depending on the light and direction of view. Majestic mountains tower up to 3200 m above the lake, from the eastern end of the lake you can see the glaciers of the Bernina massif in the background. Alpine roses were in full bloom and spread all over the banks, old Swiss pine trees, larches and such surround the lake. We spent about 1.5 hours there relaxing, cooled the feet for a few seconds in the very cold water, I climbed across rocks/boulders to get to other viewpoints around the lakes and took photos.

Finally back via the mountain hut to the Postal bus stop - we had hope to get on the 4 pm bus back to Sfazu. But without reservation it didn't work. So we had to hike back ... one more hour. Urgh. Quite exhausted we arrived at the car, drove back to the hotel and missed the wine tasting there by a half hour. Darn!
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Old Jul 19th, 2008, 09:27 AM
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Phew, the latest chapter sounds like a "Friday the 13th" description. That's a lot of bad luck.

About the book project, Ingo, you'll be the photographer, and, if it's a travel guide, the one who provides all the necessary information for visitors... including the restaurant tips... ;-)
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Old Jul 19th, 2008, 12:47 PM
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It wasn't that bad. In hindsight I must say I was fortunate to have the opportunity to spend so much time at Lake Saoseo and take plenty of pictures there. Wait till you see them! ;-)

Here we go with another installment, last for today:

Thursday, 10 July

Blue sky in the morning again, but after the exhausting hike the day before we decided it would be a day of "cable cars and such". Started with the Diavolezza cable car - best light in the morning. The views of the snow capped Bernina Massif from Diavolezza (2978 m) - Piz Palü (3905 m), Pers glacier, Piz Bernina (4049 m), Morteratsch glacier - are absolutely gorgeous. Funny thing is that they have a hot tube on the terrace of the mountain hotel/restaurant. Must be great in the evening when day tourists are gone.

Next stop was Pontresina. Strolled along the main street, paid a short visit to 'our' hotel Engadinerhof, then took the chair-lift to Alp Languard. Much greener scenery here compared to Diavolezza - the glaciers are on a distance. Had a delicious piece of blueberry cake and hot chocolate on the terrace of the restaurant, enjoyed the supberb views, then back down to Pontresina.

Not enough cable cars yet - parked at Punt Muragl and took the funicular up to Muottas Muragl. This one was the most crowded places of that day - it's listed in every guide book as the most scenic easily accessible view in the Engadine. Maybe true. Tour groups from China definitely think so. We ran into two of them. They quickly headed away from the mountain restaurant, though, in the direction of a re-designed barn where they probably had a buffet ("zvieri"). The glaciers are even more distant from Muottas Muragl than from Alp Languard, but you can see the lakes from St. Moritz up the valley to Maloja instead. Definitely different, but I am not sure I would say most scenic.

That night we had "Diner en concert" again at the hotel. I'll list the six-course menu here: Variations of the tomato/smoked light garlic soup/filet of St. Pierre fish on a lemon risotto/melon sorbet/beef filet with sauce hollandaise, potato carpaccio and zuccetti/mousse au chocolat with raspberries. (Chamber) Music was Mozart, gipsy songs and a selection of pieces from the operetta "Csardas Princess". Great evening.

Friday, 11 July

Nice weather again. According to the forecast that should change in the evening, so we decided to do a short hike that day. Took the cable car from Sils to Furtschellas, hiked (easy) less than an hour to the viewing point Marmoré (2199 m). Spent some time there enjoying the beautiful views of Fex Valley at one side and the main Engadin valley with the lakes at the other side. Then we hiked the lower path back to Furtschellas (plenty of alpine roses and other flowers in bloom along the way). The weather change was obvious with dark clouds rolling in from Italy; we barely made it back to the hotel when it started raining, soon followed by lightning and thunder. Perfect for a book, nut cake and hot chocolate in the lobby.
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Old Jul 19th, 2008, 01:30 PM
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>Wait till you see them!
Is that a promise?

And shut up on that hot chocolate... *bares teeth* ... while I'm on deep-fried veggies and pasta! ;-)

[/Silly nonsense modus off]

That trip sounds absolutely fabulous.
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Old Jul 19th, 2008, 04:48 PM
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"Thanks for the memories" Ingo, we stayed at the Engadinerhof last year and had the most entertaining time of being the only people speaking English. Thank goodness that one of the lovely ladies on the front desk could converse with us.
Great report, enjoying it immensely.

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Old Jul 19th, 2008, 05:55 PM
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Ingo, When I read you had taken 1,000 pictures I felt better...I took 1,300 during our 14 days (Chamonix,Como,Engadine,Berner Oberland,Evian, and Annecy)Thanks for sharing your trip report...I still need to post one.
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