TWO WEEKS IN MILAN, BOLOGNA, AND BELLAGIO, SUMMER 2008
 

What follow is a much belated trip report. But I decided that later was better than never, and hopefully someone will find something here useful in their own planning.

Our trip took place May 21 through June 3, 2008. This trip report will give some of the highlights of sites we visited, hotels, restaurants, and any tips that I think are worthwhile for sharing. This was our 5th trip to Europe within the last eight years, having traveled to Italy three times and to France twice previously. We love traveling to Europe and are especially interested in the food and wines as we are both into gourmet cooking and collecting wines.

I do a great deal of pre-trip planning. I research everything – sights, routes, restaurants, hotels, local foods, wines, shopping. For me half the fun is the planning. Luckily my DH Mike is pretty content to let me do all the planning and arranging, and he just goes along for the ride. Fodor’s forums are major contributors to my planning as I often read trip reports etc for suggestions. Most of my research is internet-based.

The itinerary:
Day 1 -- Flight from U.S. into Milan Malpensa

Day 2 -- Arrive Milan- check into hotel; see Duomo

Day 3 -- In Milan- Castello Sforza, Last Supper

Day 4 -- In Milan- Galleria, food shops, walking

Day 5 -- In Milan – La Scala, Brera, Navigli district

Day 6 -- to Bologna via Certosa de Pavia

Day 7 -- In Bologna

Day 8 -- Day trip to Modena & Parma

Day 9 -- Day trip to Ravenna to see mosaics

Day 10 -- Drive to Lake Como and Bellagio

Day 11 -- Day Trip to Varenna (Villa Monastero, Villa Cipressi)

Day 12 -- Day Trip to Tremezzo (Villa Carlotta), Lenno (Villa Balbianello)

Day 13 -- In Bellagio -- Villa Serbelloni, shopping

Day 14 -- flight from Milan to home

DAY ONE

I agonized less over packing this year than in previous years. Simplifying my decisions were FIVE pairs of black pants – 2 pairs of jeans, 2 pairs cotton/stretch blend fabric trousers, and one cotton/linen blend pair. Plus T-shirts, two fancier tops for evening, sweaters, jacket, one pair black Ecco sandals, one pair Cole-Haan Air Nike sport shoes. Packing completed by 10 AM and a last check of the house before departing for the airport. Flight out of Baton Rouge at 12: 50 PM to Atlanta on Delta. The usual airport wait. Then on to Milan at 5:00 PM.

This was our first experience in Business class, and we LOVED it. Greeted with mimosas and snacks. Large reclining chairs, plenty of room. Usually our coach experiences have been hellacious. Mike especially hates coach, and by the time we arrive, he’s pretty grouchy and bleary-eyed. Not this time. What a difference. We’ll never go back to coach again!

We settle in and play with the controls on the chairs for the next 30 minutes. We get snacks and wine. Then we play with the personal TV remote controls and the lights for a while. Dinner is served - 3 courses plus dessert plus wines. Although it’s airplane food, it’s much better than the usual. I read for a while and then try to sleep. Mike reads a little, watches part of a movie, and then also tries to sleep. We actually conk out for a few hours thanks to the comfy chairs, the full size pillow and the fluffy comforter.

Next – arriving in Milan and our first glimpse of the Duomo.

I'm looking forward to the rest of your report, it will bring back good memories. My sister and I did a similar trip last year, right before you, actually. April 29-May 7. We did Milan, Bellagio, and Venice.

Haven't been lucky enough yet to score business class seats, though. Maybe one day.

Johanna

DAY TWO

Before I get into the actual trip report, let me first give you a rundown on accommodations and restaurants.

Hotels:

Milan -- Hotel de la Ville, Via Hoepli 6.
Spent 350 euros for a superior double, very good buffet breakfast included. A short walk to La Scala, the Duomo, or the Galleria. Actually a good location overall – we walked everywhere we went – which is why I selected this hotel. Very nice public rooms as well as guest rooms. Very quiet despite being so close to the action. All rooms have modernized marble bathrooms.

Bologna -- Art Hotel Orologio, Via IV Novembre, 10.
Small hotel of 29 rooms. 230 euros for a superior room but we were upgraded to a suite with sitting room. Also a great location as this hotel is next to the Piazza Maggiore. Offers complimentary buffet breakfast and free city parking passes. The lot is around the corner.

Bellagio -- Hotel Florence, Piazza Mazzini, 46.
Double room with a lake view and balcony, breakfast, was 200 euros. Room was large and comfortable. The hotel is on the lakefront across from the ferry stop. There are tables on the front arcade for an afternoon drink. The restaurant where breakfast is served is very good. Very friendly and helpful staff.

Restaurants:
Milan:
**Trattoria La Milanese, Via Santa Marta 11
***L’Assassino, Via Amedei 8
***Hosteria Borromei, Via Borromei 4
*Alla Cucina della Langhe, Corso Como 6
***Da Giacomo, 6 Via Pascale Sottocorno
***Nabucco, via Fiori Chiari 10 (near Brera)
Al Pont de Ferr, Ripa di Porta Ticinese 55 (Navigli)

Bologna area:
*** Caminetto d’Oro, Via del Falegnami 4, Bologna
*** Trattoria Leonida, vicolo Alemagna 2
*** Osteria Giusti, Modena
** Il Tartufo, via del Porto 34, Bologna
*** Ristorante Bella Venezia, Via IV Novembre 16, Ravenna

Bellagio:
***Hotel Florence terrace, Bellagio
** Vecchia Varenna, Contrada Scoscesa 10, Varenna
**Bilacus, Bellagio
*** Terrazza Restaurant, Via Roma 1, GH Villa Serbelloni
** Barchetta, Salita Mella 13, Bellagio

Key :
*** great food, memorable experience, would go back
** OK food, nice experience
* OK food, but not worth the walk
No stars = Do not under any circumstances go here!

Since Mike and I are foodies, I will go into much more detail on our restaurant experiences as I go along.

Ciao for now!

drbb....

Thanks for posting your trip report...I'm loving it already. I'm a "budding" foodie myself and just returned (last week) from a week on the Amalfi Coast (I know...I need to get a trip report going!)BUT, I'm very eager to hear about Bologna...I've been wanting to go there for awhile and I'm curious to hear about your experience!

Ciao!

A South Carolinian I surmise from your forum name - ? I'm originally from the Charleston area myself.

Love the Amalfi Coast BTW. Spent some time in Positano, Amalfi, Ravello a few years back.

The food in Emilia Romagna is fantastic. We did a prosciutto plant tour also. I'll have details on that also.

Yes, yes--I am following along happily. I like the star-rating system!

drbb...

Yes, I'm in the Hilton Head area...although not a native...lived here for 16 years.

Can't wait to hear more about your trip! :-)

DAY TWO CONTINUED

Arrived in Milan about 9 AM, gathered luggage and looked for Malpensa Express train to go into Milan’s center. This was relatively easy in spite of having to drag luggage on and off the train. About 40 minutes. 11 euros each. We arrived at Milan’s Cadorna station and then took a taxi to the Hotel de la Ville.

Our room was not quite ready – it was only 11:30 AM. Possiamo lasciare i bagagli? Si. So we dropped off the luggage and went out walking in Milan’s largest square, the Piazza del Duomo. Tons of people in the piazza, around the Duomo, in the arcades around the piazza. We passed the entrance to the Galleria Vittorio Emmanuale and went in for a stroll. Lots of people there too. I looked for the famous floor mosaics. And I twirled on the bull’s testicles. Does that bring luck or ensure a return to Milan? I can’t remember. But I have thrown coins in the Trevi and patted Il Porcellino in Florence. I do all the rituals just in case.

We walked to our restaurant spot. First impressions of Milan – lots of traffic, busy city noises and smells, lots of people strolling and shopping, lots of dogs, big and little being walked. Some graffiti. Very Italian urban.

Trattoria Milanese is a much-recommended restaurant, both for its food quality and authenticity. Several large rooms with communal type tables. Very traditional Milanese menu. What we ate: We got a complimentary plate of fried squares of polenta and fried zucchini flowers. Then a rich brodo and a piatto of salume, prosciutto, lardo for starters. Mike has the costelleto Milanese, a HUGE breaded bone-in veal chop. I had the half portion of risotto and a half portion of osso buco. We had a bottle of wine but I didn’t write it down. Mike had creme caramel. We both had café macchiato. Cost: 96 euros (all restaurant costs mentioned in this trip report will include all courses, wine, sparkling water, coperto.)

Walked back to the Duomo next. It had started to rain. No line to get in but it was very dark inside since it was cloudy and rainy. We went to Duomo Point across the street to get tickets to go up to the roof. Unfortunately because of the rain, the highest part of the terrace was closed. But we went up one level and got to see some of the gargoyles spouting rain.

We walked back to the hotel, checked in, unpacked, napped, watched some CNN, and refreshed.

Dinner at L’Assassino. Great restaurant. About a 15 minute walk from the Piazza. Pretty pink interior. I had picked this restaurant as someone on Chowhound had mentioned that they serve a seafood fritto misto which is one of my all time favorite dishes. What we ate: For starters, sformatino di verdure, then a serving of pappardelle di carciofi, and Mike had culatello di zibello, which he had been wanting to try. Excellent so far. Then I had fritto di scampi and calamaretti, and Mike had tortelloni di magro con asparagi. Fantastic! The fritto had the sweet but briny taste of the sea encased in a golden crunch. The pastas were freshly made in house. We drink a Gianni Voerzio Dolcetto 2006 from La Morra. Mike has his favorite dessert – mixed berries with gelato. We order café – Mike asks for the “milk on the outside.” The service is very good, and the manager comes to talk to us. (We are the only English speakers in the place though they seem to appreciate my attempts at restaurant Italian.) He loves American national parks and has been to the U.S. 14 times.

We have a sideshow going on at the next table – a trio of Italians who are now forced to smoke outside due to the new non-fumare laws. They eat a course, go outside, eat a course, go outside. We are ready to leave but the manager brings over vin santo and cantucci. Cost: 109 euros. We are very fat and happy as we walk back to our hotel. We watch a little Italian TV before we turn in.

Thank you for deciding to post your report. I can't wait for Bologna.

You are very welcome. Bologna was fantastic! Do you have a trip planned?

DAY THREE

Morning in Milan! I got up about seven and went down to breakfast as Mike was getting dressed. Breakfast room on the bottom floor was very nice with a wide selection. I was surprised at how many Italian business people were staying there; I figured that tourists would be the norm.

We gathered our belongings and walked to Castello Sforzesco. This was a healthy walk to the northern side of central Milan, but took less time than I had thought. The historical centro is rather compact and provides excellent walking even though you’re in a bustling city. We enjoyed watching Milan wake up, sweep down the sidewalks, and open for business.

The castello was owned by the Sforza family, most famously Il Moro. The castello houses several historical collections that belong to the city of Milan. We walked outside to see the grounds, the fountains, the moat, the stonework. Lots of schoolchildren.

We spent time in the museum of musical instruments. Gorgeous pieces that are works of arts. Spinets, pianofortes, violas, flutes of wood and ivory, harps. Painted pieces, inlay, intricate workings. Then we went to the display of decorative arts. Ceramics, glass, iron pieces, silver, tapestry. Mike was fascinated by a huge chest with an intricate locking system.

We then visited the museum of furniture. Mike is a hobbyist woodworker so he loved this. Furniture from the time of Il Moro up through the 20th century. There is actually a ‘piece” of a bedroom as it used to look in the castello – painted walls, gabled ceiling. We saw the Sala delle Asse, a frescoed room attributed to Leonardo da Vinci who once worked for Il Moro. There is an armoury room with swords, armour of all periods, bows and arrows.

Our last stop was Michelangelo’s last sculpture, La Pieta Rondanini. The artist was 96 and died before the work was finished. It’s raw and unpolished but very moving.

Believe it or not, we were hungry again, and we set out for Hosteria Borromei. It was only 12:30 and we were the first there, so we got our choice of pretty outdoor tables on a covered patio decorated with pots of red flowers and yellow tablecloths. We started with wine – a Terre de Franciacorte, La Valle “Albus” from Lombardia. It’s cool and citrusy. I started with a salad of raw shaved artichoke and grana padano dressed with olive oil, lemon, and pepper. Mike had insalata caprese with fresh mozzarella. Then I proceeded to tortelloni of ricotta and asparagus, tossed in butter. It was drizzled with an egg yolk sauce and bits of chopped tomato so that it looked like a flower on the plate. Mike had a veal scallopine with porcini mushrooms. We asked the waiter about the porcini – yes, they were fresh; the weather extended the season. Excellent.

We watched an unfolding drama while we ate. Preparations were made for a business lunch, and a table was set for six by several waiters who bustled as they received instructions from the manager. Six men in suits arrived, and handshakes and small bows were offered all around. The host sat at the head of the table, smoking continuously. They all deferred to one of the elder gentlemen in the group who was the guest of honor. Six glasses of prosecco were followed by six plates of salume and prosciutto, followed by six plates of fagioli drizzled with olive oil. (They are all smoking now; I guess non fumare didn’t apply to patio seating.) Then six huge sizzling beef steaks. Dessert is six tall glasses of granita topped with sparkling wine and served with straws. Then limoncello all around. It is so Italian, almost like something from the Godfather but less sinister.

Mike finished up with berries and cream. Caffe all around. Cost: 94 euros.

We left at about 1:45, headed for Santa Maria delle Grazie. We had tickets for the 2:45 showing of the Last Supper. Again, it was a quicker walk than I thought it would be. Easy to move from place to place in Milan with broad sidewalks and crosswalks at busy intersections.

We passed Ercolessi on Corso Magenta, a jewelbox of a store featuring writing instruments. We would come back later. We claimed our tickets at the Cenco Vinciano. I had arranged for these in advance through tickitaly.com but would also been able to get them through the concierge at our hotel. Many were turned away, so tickets must be purchased in advance. There was a lobby where ticketed visitors wait for their allotted time. It featured great photos of the WWII bombing of the chapel and the subsequent restorations including the last restoration of the fresco. We got audio guides which I HIGHLY recommend. They were excellent.

At the appointed time, we entered a series of air locked doors to get to the refectory. The fresco covers one end wall and is magnificent. The last restoration was well worth whatever it cost! I had the same feeling that I had when I saw Ste Chappelle or the Sistine Chapel for the first time. You really want to cry as the beauty is overwhelming.

The audio guide pointed out the details of the composition, the colors and uses of light and perspective, the techniques of fresco used and why the fresco is deteriorating. It gave some of the history of the fresco as well. We stayed our entire allotted 15 minutes and then went into the bookstore to purchase some books and stationery.

We walked back to Ercolessi. My grown-up son collects pens, so I bought him a gorgeous Montegrappa that they were able to engrave with his name. Mike likes mechanical pencils, and he bought several snazzy models in bright colors. We walked back to the hotel but decided to stop off at Bar Duomo and watch the action for a while. The Piazza in front of the Duomo is packed with people, particularly teenagers who rap, dance and parade around in a huge teeny-bopper fashion show. The day had started cool, but now there was sunshine in full force and all Milan is outside enjoying it. Everyone is carrying shopping bags. Bellinis set us back 25 euros, but we get a free show. And olives!

We stopped at the Hoepli bookstore near our hotel. I wanted to find some good cookbooks in Italian. Mike found and bought the 2008 edition of the Slow Food Gambero Rosso guide to Italian wines. (Little did I know then, but this book will practically become a third member of our travel party. It will get its own bag, go with us everywhere, often get its own chair at a restaurant, and be the topic of many a conversation.) We stopped at the hotel for a short nap, and then got cleaned up for dinner.

We walked to Trattoria Alle Langhe at the Porta Garibaldi on Corso Como. This area and all of the Via Brera are nighttime hot spots. This part of the Corso Como is a pedestrian zone and we select an outdoor table. Our waiter is Filipino, but speaks excellent Italian and pretty good English. He is a student.

This restaurant features dishes of the Langhe in the Piemonte and so we start with a 2005 Valospi Barbera d’Asti Superiore. The menu has some Langhe dishes but it’s actually more of a mixed bag. We got a complimentary amuse bouche – a tasty focaccia of onion and tomato. Starters were culatello di zibello for Mike and bresaola dressed with lemon and EVOO for me. Then I have gnocchi with tomato and basil. Mike has the infamous Milanese veal cutlet “primavera” – topped with a salad of fresh arugula and tomato. Mike finishes with panna cotta caramel. Caffe all around. Cost: 98 euros. The food was good, but not great. But if you’re looking for a restaurant in the midst of the bars and the action, this is an OK pick.

Walked back to the hotel at about 10. The Via Brera bars were in full swing. After all, it was Friday night.

I am planning the next trip, we just don't have a date on it yet.

DAY FOUR

It was a grey day when we headed out the next morning after breakfast. This was our planned shopping and browsing day so we took umbrellas just in case. We go first to La Rinascente to check out the kitchen wares department. There is a huge food store and a wine store on the 7th floor that we wander through for a while. We browsed for a while in the housewares and bought the BEST garlic press ever. HA - German made by Wusthof. Some ravioli stamps and pasta cutters of wood and brass. Mike went into the café to get a mid-morning caffe while I checked out the shoes. The store was very crowded, and the Piazza was packed. This was the place to be on Saturday.

We went to the temple of gastronomy Peck. I marveled at the displays of fresh foods, pasta, cured meats, cheeses. I am sternly spoken to regarding Peck’s feelings on taking photos of their food displays. There was a little café on the second floor, and we stopped there for lunch. We shared a plate of the freshest prosciutto, creamy and salty. Then bocconcini of marinated mozzarella. Peck bottles their own wine and I had a glass of the Dolcetto while Mike tried the Brunello. I had a crespelle di verdure gratine and Mike had meat-filled ravioli with a fresh tomato sauce. Cassata for dessert. Due caffe. Another 2 hour lunch. Cost: 89 euros.

We walked a few blocks in the vicinity of Peck and stopped at a few stores. I bought some torrone and some of those luscious fruit pates. We went to the Galleria V. E. as I wanted to check out Berlasconi Argenteria. Part of the love affair that I have with European dining is the beautiful, heavy silver that accompanies each course. You can’t find this in the United States any more. In the world’s tiniest elevator, Mike and I ride up to the 2nd floor with Maria who shows the Buccellati silver. We look at patterns and get prices. Bringing it into the United States through Customs would be tricky though. We can order later if we wish by sending Maria an email.

We went back to the room for a short nap. Then we go out to a wine store Vino, Vino recommended by the concierge. The proprietor doesn’t speak English. I asked in my fractured Italian for i vini tipici locali di Lombardia. Does he have a Terre de Franciacorte, non spumante like we had at Hosteria Borromei? No. But he directed us to a Valtellina and also recommended an Arneis from the Roero in Piemonte. Mike was consulting the book the whole time, and it seemed to endear him to the proprietor who appeared to appreciate our meager efforts to learn about local wines.

We then went back to La Rinescente’s wine store which was huge. They do have a non-sparkling Terre de Franciacorte, and we also bought a Nino Negri Valtellina and a Nino Negri 5 Stelle Sfursat. The Sfursat is made like an amarone from partially dried grapes, and it is supposedly big and powerful. The sales person spoke good English, loved to discuss wines, and now both she and Mike were avidly consulting the book for tasting notes and ratings.

We went back to the hotel to drop off our packages. We went down to the bar; Mike did further wine research and I wrote in my journal and sorted receipts. We then changed for dinner and walked to Da Giacomo. The book went with us.

The restaurant is very pretty inside, in light greens and yellows. While we read the menus, the waiter brought us a starter of hot cheesy pizza with small bits of fish and capers on it. We looked at the wine list, and the book comes out. The owner is tickled pink that Mike is reading this book and recommends a Pieropan Soave 2005 Calvarina which had a good rating in the book. Then the owner brings an extra chair to the table—for the book.

The food here was fantastic. There were many seafood selections and we started with a zuppa di frutti di mare and a tortine di patate and porcini with a sauce of sweet prawns. Then I cannot resist – spaghetti alla vongole veraci. I was in garlic and clam heaven. Mike went for a whole steamed Sicilian spiny lobster. It was surrounded by little ripe cherry tomatoes that were extra sweet and marinated red onions. There was a light tangy sweet dressing over all. The lobster is unbelievable – and huge. Mike ate every morsel. He followed up with his usual berries and crema. Caffe. We talked with the couple at the adjoining table who were from Switzerland. They were amazed at Mike’s lobster. She asked if I am second generation Italian because my accent was so good!! By the time we finished, it was 10:30. They called us a cab because it was raining. We shook hands all around – waiter, owner, hostess. Cost: 156 euros and worth every cent.

Back at the hotel we put the book to bed. We watched Harry Potter in Italian – La Camera Segreta – for a few minutes before retiring.



DAY FIVE

On our last day in Milan, I am determined that we will go to La Scala, about 5 minutes from our hotel. I am an opera buff but Mike is more tepid. An occasional aria is about all he can handle. There were no operas being performed at the time we were there, so I had to be content with a look at the interior and the museum.

It is a beautiful building. Luckily the orchestra was tuning up to practice when we arrived, and so we got to stand in one of the stunning boxes and listen for awhile. The first violinist and another violinist have a tumultuous disagreement which involves waving the sheet music and a lot of hand gesturing. It was great fun to watch.

The museum is a series of little rooms with musical instruments, portraits of famous singers and composers, opera posters and memorabilia. Then we went into the special exhibit which featured the costumes of Maria Callas. There are large black and white photos of her in performance wearing the costumes which are shown. They were gorgeous. Some of her arias were playing softly in the background.

We left the building and walked around it to see the architecture. Then we walked down Via Manzoni to window shop, all the way down to the Porta Nuova. We walked back up on the other side. Lots of people outside enjoying the day even though it was grey and overcast.

We stopped for lunch at Nabucco off via Brera. There are outdoor tables under a cover which was good as it started to rain lightly right after we sat down. The wine list is consulted, and the book comes out. The waiter recommends a white wine from Sardinia; they look at the book, and the book says OK. A 2005 Cantina del Vermentino. The book was right – it was very good.

I started with a plate of grilled vegetables – eggplant, endive, red peppers, radicchio, tomato, zucchini. Mike had prosciutto and melon. Then I had the dish I had been dreaming of since I saw it on Nabucco’s web site menu – their specialty, spaghetti chitarra con aragosta. “Square” spaghetti in a spicy fresh tomato sauce with garlic and a split lobster tail on top. Mike, perhaps in anticipation of going to Bologna next, has a trio of tortelli in different shapes – spinach & ricotta, beef & mushroom, and porcini & smoked mozzarella – in a sage and butter sauce.

There were sidewalk artists up and down the street. They hastily covered their work with plastic when the rain threatened. They sat in lawn chairs under the eaves and smoked until the sun came out. We watched the neighborhood children play and old grandmothers putting out the laundry on lines strung overhead across the street.

Mike has to have dessert. He can’t help himself. Pink panna cotta with strawberries. Caffe as a digestif. Cost: 112 euros.

Our next stop was the Pinacoteca Brera, just a few blocks down. I had a good room-by-room guide book that I bought at Santa Maria delle Grazie bookshop. Mike tends to whiz through art museums. I tend to linger, always with something in writing that gives me details about the more famous pieces. I was taken with the Caravaggio rendition of The Last Supper, so different from da Vinci’s. Judas already has his bag of silver in hand. Canaletto’s Grand Canal is magnificent.

We left the Brera and walked back to the hotel so Mike could have a little nap. I went out in search of a bancomat and a late afternoon caffe.

We had dinner reservations in the Navigli area which was a long walk. We left early so that we could take our time. The Piazza Duomo was packed with people. Everyone was out on Sunday evening, shopping, talking, sitting in the café, meeting friends.

The Navigli area was a straight shot down the Via Torino to the Porta Genova. Then the road curves as it follows a canal. Then you can see the canal itself with the two what used to be towpaths on either side. The Ripa di Porta Ticinese has an antiques/flea market on Sundays, and it was wrapping up as we arrived. There were still some boats on the canal, mostly pleasure boats. There were many bars, cafes, and restaurants. But this area is not as attractive as I had imagined from my reading. We walk for quite a while checking out the shops.

We head for our restaurant Al Pont de Ferr which was a Slow Foods pick. As soon as we enter, my internal alarm went off. No tablecloths. Paper napkins. Cheap stainless like in the school cafeteria. Menus in English. I asked for one in Italian. The dishes were not recognizable as Italian, much less Slow Food. Fois gras? Two amuse bouche came first – little ice cream wafer cones of smoked salmon mousse. Then a curried bread served with salted butter. The plate of cured meats that we shared for a starter was the only thing that resembled Italian food – prosciutto, coppa, and slices of a dark red sausage. I ordered a beef tartare which like carpaccio usually comes dressed with lemon, olive oil and parmigiano. This was four raw meatballs with a few drops of a balsamic glaze. It had no flavor. Mike ordered a roasted pork with potatoes and onions. It was so-so. No dessert, no coffee. We leave, disappointed that our last meal in Milan was so bad. In retrospect, I think that the restaurant must have changed hands. Oh well…. Cost: 84 euros.

Luckily we have planned to go to Bologna next – land of prosciutto, parmigiano and pasta!!

The streets are filled with people on the walk back. Everyone is out in the streets.

Impressions of Milan –
Typical city with dirt, noise, fumes, graffiti;
Depressing on a cloudy, grey day;
Lots of very nice people who are friendly and respectful;
Lots of great food and wine;
Last Supper is worth the visit alone;
Not a city I would necessarily visit again, but one not to be missed.

DAY SIX

We were in no huge hurry to be up and out – the trip to Bologna will only take a few hours by car. We packed, ate breakfast, and went to pick up the car at 10 AM. The rental office was near the Stazione Centrale. We got the car and started off in the direction of the Certosa de Pavia which was a famous monastery in the time of Il Moro. The cathedral features the 3rd largest dome in Italy. Alas -- despite all my research, we found it closed. Not sure why.

Back on the road. We drove past Parma and Modena on the autostrada and then stopped at an Autogrill for pizza and snacks. We made it into Bologna’s centro and found the Art Orologio hotel but no place to park. We circled the block. Then I went in while Mike sat in the car. No problem. Drive the car right up to the door on the piazza.

We were upgraded to a suite although we didn’t know it until after we had been shown to the wrong room by a porter and unpacked. So we re-packed and changed rooms. We went outside and explored. There was some sort of a theatrical production being set up in the Piazza Maggiore just steps from our hotel. There was a huge stage, scenery, dancers, costumes, lights, sound systems. Beautiful Renaissance style music played in the square. I found a brochure and as best as I could figure out, there was to be a “spectacle” culminating a multi-day celebration of Michelangelo. The spectacle, an allegory in three acts, was planned for four evenings hence, while we would be in Bologna. We sat at a café and watched some of the rehearsal. A young boy with angel wings flew across the stage on wires. There is a pond on stage with small wooden ships. There are lots of women players in long renaissance dresses. And nuns. None of it made any sense to me, but it looked interesting! The real fun was that everyone in Bologna seemed to be involved – participating, helping, or just commenting on the action. Everyone stops to watch what’s going on.

We wandered more. I saw shoe stores. Mike saw leather stores. We both check out the food stores. The fresh pasta!! The cheese! The prosciutto handing from the ceiling! We have died and gone to our own personal version of heaven!

We went back to the hotel to get cleaned up and we walked a few blocks to our dinner spot – Caminetto d’Oro. There is a little covered patio in front with tables, and so we snag one outside. The waiter speaks very little English, but he is happy when Mike whips out the book and I ask for a wine recommendation. Suddenly we are best buddies, no language required, hand gestures will do just fine. He recommends a local 2004 Drei Dona Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Riserva. Our dinner is very good and very typical Bolognese. Starters of an insalata dei funghi (raw thinly sliced mushrooms) dressed with oil, lemon, and parmigiano. And culaccia di parma (which is like the heart of an exclusive prosciutto) served with a local goat cheese and caramelized fresh figs. Our secondi – tagliatelle bolognese for me and grilled lamb with potatoes for Mike. All excellent. I was on a roll, and I went for dessert – vanilla gelato drizzled with a aged balsamic vinegar. Oh my! Mike had a shortbread filled with cream and covered with a dark chocolate sauce.

We were again the only ones speaking English. Our neighbors at the next table appeared to be frequent guests – they knew the waiter well. He brought them a bottle of a thick red liqueur and little stemmed glasses. A digestif of some kind. We asked what it was. He took their bottle and brought it to our table with more glasses! 40 percent alcohol, made of cherries. Villa Zarri, made locally. It had a warm burn all the way down. I asked him where we could buy the Sangiovese wine to take home. Well, here of course. We had a bottle added to our bill. Handshakes all around as we leave. Cost: 154 euros including the extra wine.

We walked around the piazza on our way back. Preparations for the show were still underway even though it was almost 11 PM.

DAY SEVEN

This day was just for browsing and taking in the sights of Bologna. We visited the very pretty breakfast room in the hotel. All cold food but what an assortment – fruit, breads, jams, cake, marinated tomatoes, cheeses, yogurt, cereal, salume, hard boiled eggs, juices, cappuccino, tea.

We started our tour of Bologna with the Palazzo Communale on the main piazza. This is Bologna’s working city hall but there was some splendid artwork. We went up to the second floor on a gently sloped staircase designed to be used by soldiers on horseback. The public rooms were beautiful with paintings, frescoed walls, statuary, gilded ceilings. The city workers huddled next to open windows during their cigarette breaks. We saw the special display cases where the marriage license, obituaries and legal transactions were posted.

Preparations for the gala were still going strong in the piazza. Dozens of people scurrying about. Now there were huge papier mache “cakes” and other props being unloaded. A string quartet played on a little platform that is lowered from the top of the stage. Outside the building we saw the Neptune Fountain (scandalous!), and then we went to the Basilica. One of the prettiest interiors I’ve seen. Partly because it was very light inside and you can actually see the details of the chapels, the carvings and the paintings. There was a meridian on the floor and a huge gilded baldacchino.

We walked into the market area just off the main piazza. There were many food stores of all types. It’s a foodie paradise. We bought a few things and dropped our packages back at the hotel. We went back to the market area and went into La Baita (a deli) to sample some cheeses and salume. We went into Tamburini but didn’t eat anything there.

We then walked to the Due Torri, the famous leaning towers of Bologna. I wanted to go up in the Torre Asinelli. Mike refused – he and the book would wait down on the ground, thank you. I walked up – 498 steps on wicked, rickety wooden stairs that go in a square spiral up the tower. A little harrowing at times. Some of the stairs were practically worn bare in the middle. Some of the stairs had been reinforced with iron bars bolted to the brick walls. The views at the top over Bologna and the countryside were gorgeous. Worth the climb.

We then strolled through the arcaded street of via Strada Maggiore and then through the cobblestone streets and grounds of the university. The political science department had its own gardens!

We made our way back to the Piazza Maggiore and sat to have a granita at the outdoor café. Now three small boys in platinum wigs and with angel wings are flying across the stage, rehearsing their parts. The ladies in long gowns practice their dances. The quarter is still playing. I was entranced by the level of production and preparation. All of Bologna stops and watches and points and conjectures. It’s a play within a play.

We cleaned up for dinner, but went shopping beforehand. For me, a gorgeous pair of Armani ballet flats. They are silver with little white leather bows tipped in silver metal. Mike has decided that the book must have its own bag. The backpack was not good enough. He bought a beautiful leather messenger bag. He fit the book into several bags before making his final choice. I wear my new shoes, and I feel very Italian as I carry my shopping bag down the street.

We then made our way to Trattoria Leonida which was off a small alleyway. Not an attractive exterior so we forego the outside tables, but the interior was very pretty. Not many tables. It quickly fills up. All locals. The cuisine here is supposed to be very traditional. The wine list was short, and the book did not help in this respect. We asked the waiter for a recommendation. He speaks little English. We must have Lambrusco from Emilia-Romagna of course! There were a number of fresh pastas on the menu. I get a traditional garmigna - short, thick, curly, formed by hand – in a sauce of sausage and mushrooms. Mike got the gargenelli (like a penne but the ends are on the diagonal in different directions) al ragu Bolognese. I ask about the pasta, and the waiter said (and pantomimed) that the gargenelli is made in house by rolling a small square of pasta around a dowel to make a little tube. Yikes! It must take hours to make enough for one serving!

I then had a delicious eggplant parmigiana that is not anything like what we get back home. Thinly sliced, little breading, fresh parmigiano, a little sauce. Mike had copertino di vitello – veal rolls stuffed with prosciutto, cheese, and mushrooms. With a side of delicious fried potatoes. We were too full for dessert. We finished our wine, drank caffe. Cost: 75 euros.

We strolled back to our hotel, I in my silver Armanis, Mike with his book in bag. We watched a little Italian TV – the game shows are a riot – and then to bed.

drbb...

I am salivating reading your last post! You really had me with the eggplant parmigiana...when I travel in Italy a doesn't go by when I don't have eggplant!

Looking forward to more!

Yay! Thanks for putting up your report - I love reading about Bologna. My daughter and I posted our trip report to Bologna a year after the fact as well. It was fun for us to relive the great experience.

Did you see the Morandi museum in Bologna at the top of those sloping stairs? That was a highlight for me.

LowCountry- Thanks, more food to come!

rosetravels - I don't specifically remember a Morandi museum. I was most interested in seeing the frescoes. Sounds like I missed something. I guess I'll have to go back!

Great trip report! I have definitely jotted down the Bologna information.

Last month, I was staying with one of my best American, male friends who lives in Treviso (30 minutes,by train, from Venice) and we had talked of hopping a train to Bologna, but ended up doing Venice for a second day instead. It was my first time going to Venice which I wasn't as enamored by as others, but decided to give it a second day.

Bologna has been on my list for over a decade as I've had Italian friends from there, in the past, who said that it was fabulous. It's too bad I've lost contact with them.

I seem to be able to get to Italy (Rome/Florence/Naples/Amalfi Coast, and even an overnight outside of Milan once) , but just can't find the time to get to Bologna. I'm putting it back on the TOP of my list again! Do you think that 3 days would be sufficient?

I fly from L.A. to Paris annually,for over 30 years now, and usually in the spring. I usually spend 8 nights in Paris. Sometimes, I'll take up to 3-4 days somewhere outside of Paris, but within that same total of 8 nights. Last month I did 4 nights in Treviso and 4 nights in Paris, but I most of the time, spend the entire time in Paris and try to schedule outside of Paris destinations on a separate trip. I take 1-3 overseas vacations a year.

Last month, I flew L.A. to CDG and then had a 4-hour layover and my Parisian friend met me at CDG, at the gate of the Venice flight. We then flew on to Venice airport, where my friend picked us up, and drove us on to his and his wife's place in Treviso. So, we started our vacation in Treviso . After Treviso, it was a flight to Paris where I stayed for 4 nights and then home and back to work the next morning. So, I cut Paris short, in order to visit my friend in Treviso and to see Venice. This was during Easter week. It was a GREAT time in Italy, as usual. We all had a ball. Happy Travels!

So, I already have a plane ticket for spring 2010 from L.A. to Paris. But, I was thinking of maybe flying into CDG and then changing planes and going on to Bologna for 3 days and then back to Paris. I'll have a rented apartment, in Paris, and with the keys before I leave home, so I can arrive into Paris whenever I want to. Happy Travels!

Edit: Edit out the first, "Happy Travels". I must be still asleep. Smiles. Happy Travels!