Two Weeks in Italy: Umbria, Tuscany, Piedmont Itinerary Help
Dec 28th, 2014, 07:40 PM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Two Weeks in Italy: Umbria, Tuscany, Piedmont Itinerary Help
Hi Board,
First real post here but have been reading replies for quite a while. My wife and I will have two weeks in Italy for our 10th anniversary this May-June. We are relatively seasoned Europe travelers and have both been to Italy multiple times, most recently two weeks in 2008. For our tenth anniversary we are looking primarily to:
- Stay in great hotels (lodging budget $200-$300 per night, less is fine too)
- Eat great food
- Drink Awesome wine
- Relax
We have hit all of the major sites / cities before so outside of a night or two in Rome prior to our flight out I don't anticipate spending much, if any time in major cities like Florence, Siena, Venice, Milan etc.
We are also planning on renting a car. Right now I am trying to get a handle on how much driving we want to do and how many different hotels we want to stay in. The middle part of the trip is really the most challenging and is based around deciding between Piedmont and Emilia Romagna both of which are regions we have never been to. In my mind I am thinking something along the lines of:
Days 1-3: Umbria, stay in Norcia at http://www.palazzoseneca.com
Days 4-6: Tuscany, stay near Montalcino, potentially at: http://www.castellodivelona.it
Days: 7-10: Piedmont or Emilia Romagna, looking at: http://www.hotelcastellodisinio.com
Days: 11-12: Cinque Terre, Vernazza, http://www.lamala.it/en/
Day 13: Rome, Hotel undetermined
What I am really looking for are recommendations on the following:
- Best towns to visit in each of the regions mentioned (Umbria, Tuscany, Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna)
- Your opinion of the pacing of this trip, is this too much driving to still allow for a relaxed pace.
- Hotel recommendations - the above are listed as examples of the type of lodging we would love which is pretty unique for us since this is a special occasion trip. That said I am really open to other options if you have favorites.
- Fun experience based activities that you have personally taken part in and loved - cooking classes, truffle hunting, wine tastings / tours etc.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Will update as we book - grazie!
First real post here but have been reading replies for quite a while. My wife and I will have two weeks in Italy for our 10th anniversary this May-June. We are relatively seasoned Europe travelers and have both been to Italy multiple times, most recently two weeks in 2008. For our tenth anniversary we are looking primarily to:
- Stay in great hotels (lodging budget $200-$300 per night, less is fine too)
- Eat great food
- Drink Awesome wine
- Relax
We have hit all of the major sites / cities before so outside of a night or two in Rome prior to our flight out I don't anticipate spending much, if any time in major cities like Florence, Siena, Venice, Milan etc.
We are also planning on renting a car. Right now I am trying to get a handle on how much driving we want to do and how many different hotels we want to stay in. The middle part of the trip is really the most challenging and is based around deciding between Piedmont and Emilia Romagna both of which are regions we have never been to. In my mind I am thinking something along the lines of:
Days 1-3: Umbria, stay in Norcia at http://www.palazzoseneca.com
Days 4-6: Tuscany, stay near Montalcino, potentially at: http://www.castellodivelona.it
Days: 7-10: Piedmont or Emilia Romagna, looking at: http://www.hotelcastellodisinio.com
Days: 11-12: Cinque Terre, Vernazza, http://www.lamala.it/en/
Day 13: Rome, Hotel undetermined
What I am really looking for are recommendations on the following:
- Best towns to visit in each of the regions mentioned (Umbria, Tuscany, Piedmont, Emilia-Romagna)
- Your opinion of the pacing of this trip, is this too much driving to still allow for a relaxed pace.
- Hotel recommendations - the above are listed as examples of the type of lodging we would love which is pretty unique for us since this is a special occasion trip. That said I am really open to other options if you have favorites.
- Fun experience based activities that you have personally taken part in and loved - cooking classes, truffle hunting, wine tastings / tours etc.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Will update as we book - grazie!
Dec 29th, 2014, 02:09 AM
#2
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 6,534
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If drinking "awesome" is really a big focus for the trip, then I would suggest staying nearer to Montefalco in Umbria, going to Piemonte instead of Emilia-Romagna, and only visiting le Cinque Terre but staying Bolgheri (on the Tuscan coast).
One difficulty with a road trip like this through several wine regions is that each time you switch locales, you might feel obliged to go to the best restaurant to eat a representative meal with the awesome wine -- and that quickly starts to be a LOT of food, and 5 or 7 days into the trip, you have lost your appetite. So as much as you need to pace your driving, you need to think about how you are going to pace your meals so that it stays enjoyable.
The other thing you need to consider is drinking and driving. For wine tastings and tours, you don't actually drink. But if you want to drink wine at lunch or dinner, it is best to have positioned yourself in places where you can walk afterwards, including walking home rather than driving. Italian limits for driving/alcohol consumptions are very low and strict.
One difficulty with a road trip like this through several wine regions is that each time you switch locales, you might feel obliged to go to the best restaurant to eat a representative meal with the awesome wine -- and that quickly starts to be a LOT of food, and 5 or 7 days into the trip, you have lost your appetite. So as much as you need to pace your driving, you need to think about how you are going to pace your meals so that it stays enjoyable.
The other thing you need to consider is drinking and driving. For wine tastings and tours, you don't actually drink. But if you want to drink wine at lunch or dinner, it is best to have positioned yourself in places where you can walk afterwards, including walking home rather than driving. Italian limits for driving/alcohol consumptions are very low and strict.
Dec 29th, 2014, 03:57 AM
#3
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You might consider staying at a really nice agriturismo. Some time ago, I stayed at Fattoria La Loggia (between Florence and Siena), and it's an amazing place. Our apartment was gorgeous and beautifully appointed, an incredibly relaxing spot. Days began with the maid bringing the breakfast tray with ultra-fresh fruits and breads and homemade jams, enjoyed on our private patio. Days were spent visiting the local hill towns, evenings at great local restaurants. A very, very nice spot -- http://www.fattorialaloggia.com/index_gb.htm
Dec 29th, 2014, 07:34 AM
#4
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 862
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Umbria. Staying in Norcia will not give you the easiest access to many of the towns and villages that we enjoy. We like Norcia and always visit along with the Piano Grande (spectacular) but Spello, Montefalco, Bevagna, Spoleto and Assissi are quite a ways away. The wines distinctive of this area--sagrantino-- are best found in this area as well and the tasting opportunities. As sandralist suggests, visit Norcia but stay near the valley.
Dec 29th, 2014, 07:46 AM
#5
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,525
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I agree---Norcia is not your best location.
Consider Genius Loci near Montefalco/Bevagna.
In Piemonte, stay near Alba--look at Villa Favorita.
This trip looks rushed to me. I think I would drop the CT and make the sequence:
Umbria
Piemonte
Tuscany
Rome.
Consider Genius Loci near Montefalco/Bevagna.
In Piemonte, stay near Alba--look at Villa Favorita.
This trip looks rushed to me. I think I would drop the CT and make the sequence:
Umbria
Piemonte
Tuscany
Rome.
Dec 29th, 2014, 10:34 AM
#6
Original Poster
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks all - great feedback so far. Norcia was one of the places I was really looking at but given the advice here I will look at basing in another town for our needs.
The CT is per wife's request - we have great memories from there last time around. That said it may be cut.
I agree with bobthenavigator that right now the trip feels rushed. Part of me wants to just say - 1 week in Tuscany + 1 week in Piemonte and call it good. We will see if it gets there!
The CT is per wife's request - we have great memories from there last time around. That said it may be cut.
I agree with bobthenavigator that right now the trip feels rushed. Part of me wants to just say - 1 week in Tuscany + 1 week in Piemonte and call it good. We will see if it gets there!
Dec 29th, 2014, 11:28 AM
#7
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,645
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I agree that the trip is too rushed IMO. 1 week in each of Tuscany and Piemonte would be better. Being surrounded by the crowds in the CT, especially with many of the trails being closed, would be relaxing for me.
Dec 29th, 2014, 01:03 PM
#8
there is a current thread about a trip to Piedemonte which you may enjoy reading, and also the jamikens/bikerscott TRs of their travels are full of great ideas.
overall, I agree that for the sort of trip you are aiming at, you are trying to cram in too many bases.
you might find a week in each of two places more enjoyable.
overall, I agree that for the sort of trip you are aiming at, you are trying to cram in too many bases.
you might find a week in each of two places more enjoyable.
Dec 29th, 2014, 05:34 PM
#9
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,754
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
phaddix,
That was my thought too. Definitely drop the Cinque Terre this time around. If it were me for this type of special occasion trip, and given that you have traveled in Italy quite a bit - go with 2 bases.
I have not visited the Piedmonte or Emilia Romagna yet, but have visited all the other areas mentioned.
For Umbria, I loved staying in beautiful and untouristy Spello - Palazzo Bocci. Easy to drive in/out and park. Lots of easy day trips from there.
On the same trip I also stayed in Montalcino, specifically to taste Brunello. Thought I'd died and gone to heaven. My hotel there was OK, but not great so I won't recommend. Really enjoyed being able to walk to dinner and walk back. Also tasting at the Fortezza - excellent! Again, many easy nearby day trips.
Sounds like a wonderful trip. Congratulations
That was my thought too. Definitely drop the Cinque Terre this time around. If it were me for this type of special occasion trip, and given that you have traveled in Italy quite a bit - go with 2 bases.
I have not visited the Piedmonte or Emilia Romagna yet, but have visited all the other areas mentioned.
For Umbria, I loved staying in beautiful and untouristy Spello - Palazzo Bocci. Easy to drive in/out and park. Lots of easy day trips from there.
On the same trip I also stayed in Montalcino, specifically to taste Brunello. Thought I'd died and gone to heaven. My hotel there was OK, but not great so I won't recommend. Really enjoyed being able to walk to dinner and walk back. Also tasting at the Fortezza - excellent! Again, many easy nearby day trips.
Sounds like a wonderful trip. Congratulations
Dec 30th, 2014, 03:10 AM
#10
hi phaddix,
i found a post by jamikins and found my way to her TR list - plenty of food for thought for you here!
http://www.fodors.com/community/prof...ins/topics.cfm
i found a post by jamikins and found my way to her TR list - plenty of food for thought for you here!
http://www.fodors.com/community/prof...ins/topics.cfm
Dec 30th, 2014, 05:12 AM
#11
There are multiple places in Montalcino to taste Brunellos. At the fortezza, you can tour around the top (great views) then come down and do a wine tasting.
http://www.enotecalafortezza.com/
At Enoteca Osticcio, get a table in front of the window (fantastic view) and sample Brunellos along with snacks or a meal. One of my snacks.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...c78f5a23b008d2
The view.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.n...b52d3d3d1f31f5
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...aca86efaedf1c2
http://www.osticcio.it/
In Montefalco, you can sample Sagrantinos at L'Alchimista (also snacks/meals). One of my snacks there.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.n...318f0a547b1675
I think your itinerary looks rushed too, but I'm not clear about your arrival flight. If in and out of Rome, I think I would stick closer to there (Tuscany/Umbria) as Piedmont is too far. If you wanted to add another area, perhaps Chianti. Have you been to any small towns in Italy before?
http://www.enotecalafortezza.com/
At Enoteca Osticcio, get a table in front of the window (fantastic view) and sample Brunellos along with snacks or a meal. One of my snacks.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...c78f5a23b008d2
The view.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.n...b52d3d3d1f31f5
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...aca86efaedf1c2
http://www.osticcio.it/
In Montefalco, you can sample Sagrantinos at L'Alchimista (also snacks/meals). One of my snacks there.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.n...318f0a547b1675
I think your itinerary looks rushed too, but I'm not clear about your arrival flight. If in and out of Rome, I think I would stick closer to there (Tuscany/Umbria) as Piedmont is too far. If you wanted to add another area, perhaps Chianti. Have you been to any small towns in Italy before?
Dec 30th, 2014, 07:13 AM
#12
Original Poster
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
kybourbon,
Thanks for the response and suggestions! Yes our flights are in /out of FCO on AA / US Air (booked using miles).
We have been to several small towns in the region before including:
- Montalcino, day-trip
- Orvieto, day-trip,
-Civitia di Bagnoregio
We are planning on visiting Montalcino again and have been in conversations with one of our favorite wineries there about visiting them during the trip. We are looking to visit other smaller towns, likely making one a home base in each region and then making day trips throughout the trip.
What I am wrestling with now is the Piemonte portion. It is an area of the country that we have never visited and have read many great things about. I don't mind taking a days worth of travel (train or drive) to get there, especially if we did it leisurely and made stops along the way.
Thanks for all of your help!
Thanks for the response and suggestions! Yes our flights are in /out of FCO on AA / US Air (booked using miles).
We have been to several small towns in the region before including:
- Montalcino, day-trip
- Orvieto, day-trip,
-Civitia di Bagnoregio
We are planning on visiting Montalcino again and have been in conversations with one of our favorite wineries there about visiting them during the trip. We are looking to visit other smaller towns, likely making one a home base in each region and then making day trips throughout the trip.
What I am wrestling with now is the Piemonte portion. It is an area of the country that we have never visited and have read many great things about. I don't mind taking a days worth of travel (train or drive) to get there, especially if we did it leisurely and made stops along the way.
Thanks for all of your help!
Dec 30th, 2014, 09:16 AM
#15
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We, also, loved our trip in the Piemonte. Because we are big Barolo lovers, we chose to stay in that area, in the town of Monforte d'Alba at an amazing B&B called le Case della Saracca. When we were there, they didn't offer breakfast, but we were ok walking down to the tiny main square. The owner of our B&B was able to arrange several visits to wineries; one was to a woman-owned place (sorry, don't remember the name) where we basically sat in their house to taste wine. That entire part of the trip was the best and most indulgent eating I've ever had on any trip (we were traveling during truffle season).
Dec 30th, 2014, 09:31 AM
#16
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 6,534
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
phaddix,
You are going to need a car in the Piemonte, and would do best to have one in Tuscany, and there are not a lot of great train routes between them, so you might as well drive. There is of course no end of memorable stops you could make. If you have a sentimental attachment to the Riviera, why not? A seafood break might be nice too in-between all that meat. Most people have come to dislike the crowds that descend on le Cinque Terre, so you could consider trying some place new. Camogli is pleasant. If you have a car you can even consider staying up the hill near the lovely restaurant of La Cucina di Nonna Nina and some bars with memorable views. From there you can have some zingy hikes, and also walk down to boat rides or the seaside town. For a one or 2 night stay it can be nice, since May is usually too early to swim.
As for the Piemonte itself, 99 percent of the tourism has a gastronomic/wine focus, and while the towns are pleasant, they are seldom viewed as destinations in and of themselves. The hills of the Piemonte are much slower going when it comes to driving, so most people pick a fairly tight area and explore a compact radius from there. The entire Piemonte is actually one of the largest regions of Italy, and some quarters of it really have nothing to do with wine or hills. So it is best to understand going in that you are not "doing Piemonte" but rather "going to the Langhe" or some other choice area.
Leaving Piemonte, if you need to be back in Rome, you might find it much easier to dump the car and take the train, or take a flight out of Torino airport if there is one.
You are going to need a car in the Piemonte, and would do best to have one in Tuscany, and there are not a lot of great train routes between them, so you might as well drive. There is of course no end of memorable stops you could make. If you have a sentimental attachment to the Riviera, why not? A seafood break might be nice too in-between all that meat. Most people have come to dislike the crowds that descend on le Cinque Terre, so you could consider trying some place new. Camogli is pleasant. If you have a car you can even consider staying up the hill near the lovely restaurant of La Cucina di Nonna Nina and some bars with memorable views. From there you can have some zingy hikes, and also walk down to boat rides or the seaside town. For a one or 2 night stay it can be nice, since May is usually too early to swim.
As for the Piemonte itself, 99 percent of the tourism has a gastronomic/wine focus, and while the towns are pleasant, they are seldom viewed as destinations in and of themselves. The hills of the Piemonte are much slower going when it comes to driving, so most people pick a fairly tight area and explore a compact radius from there. The entire Piemonte is actually one of the largest regions of Italy, and some quarters of it really have nothing to do with wine or hills. So it is best to understand going in that you are not "doing Piemonte" but rather "going to the Langhe" or some other choice area.
Leaving Piemonte, if you need to be back in Rome, you might find it much easier to dump the car and take the train, or take a flight out of Torino airport if there is one.
Dec 30th, 2014, 09:36 AM
#18
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh, and best towns to stop in. Monforte, definitely. There's a great little Bar / Enoteca right in the middle of town. Also, the grocery is a great place to pick up local grissini
We also liked La Morra and Barolo. In Barbaresco, we liked Barbaresco. It's just a beautiful area to drive around in. We also visited Alba, a bigger town; when we were there, it was the truffle festival, so the town was packed.
We also liked La Morra and Barolo. In Barbaresco, we liked Barbaresco. It's just a beautiful area to drive around in. We also visited Alba, a bigger town; when we were there, it was the truffle festival, so the town was packed.
Dec 30th, 2014, 10:58 AM
#19
You could start in Piemonte on arrival day. It would be a long day, but I find arrival day pretty much a waste anyway. Italo has a train at 14:40 that they list as non-stop (not sure why as it clearly stops at Rome Tiburtina and 2 stations in Milan) Rome Termini/Torino P. Susa. Travel time is 4 hours. There are earlier/later trains that take about 1/2 hour longer. I see promo fares for it on a random date in May for 35€. You certainly couldn't drive it for that. Trenitalia has similar options with one departing at 11:00 taking 4:05 to Torino P. Nuova (29€ cheap fare). Work your way back toward Rome.
Feb 9th, 2015, 08:50 AM
#20
Original Poster
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks again to all for the feedback above. I think after a month we are getting some clarity around this itinerary. Here is our plan as of this point. I know the below may feel a little "scheduled" but really it is intended to give a framework to our days not be a fixed plan, we will flex as needed. Would love any additional thoughts on what to do, what we may be missing and general feedback:
Wednesday: Arrive 8:30 AM to MXP, pick up rental car, drive towards Langhe region with possible stop in Turin to explore city, check in at La Villa (www.lavillahotel.net)
Thursday-Sunday: Explore Piemonte, including winery and town visits, schedule a cooking class (recommendations would be wonderful.) Saturday / Sunday is Cantine Aperte so see what wineries and cellars we want to visit. Also consider the "Day of the Artichoke" on Sunday in Mombercelli
Monday: Driving day - wake up early, breakfast at hotel, depart for Val d'Orcia via SR222 drive through Tuscany, arrive to hotel while light, check-in to Follonico (www.follonico.com)
Tuesday-Thursday: Explore Val d'Orcia including visits to Montalcino, Montepulciano, Pienza with 1-2 scheduled winery visits.
Friday: Driving day - wake up, make way to Norcia, possible stops along the way include Perugia, Assisi, Torgiano, Deruta. Arrive to Palazzo Seneca (www.palazzoseneca.com) in time for dinner.
Saturday-Sunday: Explore Southeast Umbria including flowering of the Castellucian plain, Gregorian chant, food.
Monday: Drive to Rome, drop car at Roma Termini or FCO, nice farewell dinner in Rome
Tuesday: Taxi to airport / flight home
Specifically if anyone has ideas on great cooking classes in the regions we will be visiting as well as a nice place to stay our final night in Rome I would greatly appreciate it!
Wednesday: Arrive 8:30 AM to MXP, pick up rental car, drive towards Langhe region with possible stop in Turin to explore city, check in at La Villa (www.lavillahotel.net)
Thursday-Sunday: Explore Piemonte, including winery and town visits, schedule a cooking class (recommendations would be wonderful.) Saturday / Sunday is Cantine Aperte so see what wineries and cellars we want to visit. Also consider the "Day of the Artichoke" on Sunday in Mombercelli
Monday: Driving day - wake up early, breakfast at hotel, depart for Val d'Orcia via SR222 drive through Tuscany, arrive to hotel while light, check-in to Follonico (www.follonico.com)
Tuesday-Thursday: Explore Val d'Orcia including visits to Montalcino, Montepulciano, Pienza with 1-2 scheduled winery visits.
Friday: Driving day - wake up, make way to Norcia, possible stops along the way include Perugia, Assisi, Torgiano, Deruta. Arrive to Palazzo Seneca (www.palazzoseneca.com) in time for dinner.
Saturday-Sunday: Explore Southeast Umbria including flowering of the Castellucian plain, Gregorian chant, food.
Monday: Drive to Rome, drop car at Roma Termini or FCO, nice farewell dinner in Rome
Tuesday: Taxi to airport / flight home
Specifically if anyone has ideas on great cooking classes in the regions we will be visiting as well as a nice place to stay our final night in Rome I would greatly appreciate it!
