A brief day in Rome (day trip to Tivoli)

Old May 27th, 2013, 04:16 PM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,862
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
A brief day in Rome (day trip to Tivoli)

I just spent a brief day in Rome. I opted for a day trip to Tivoli, as I'd seen many of the major attractions in Rome. Then I went to San Clemente and then the Titian exhibition at Scuderie before leaving Rome.

The boring logistics....

Getting to Tivoli

I did not have time to do any research before stopping in Rome, so I wasted a fair bit of time getting there. Here are some tips that others may find useful.

(1) Tivoli can be reached by a Cotral bus via the Ponte Mammolo stop on line B of the Metro. Note, however, there are two branches of line B, so make sure you take the correct branch (I did not).

(2) I did not have any bags, so I could have headed straight to the Tiburtina station from FCO and switched to the Metro there. Instead, I went to Termini first instead, which was a waste of time.

(3) The buses to Tivoli leave from the upper level of the station. The Cotral ticket office is on the same level, but it was not open.

(4) Ticket counters in the lower level sell Cotral bus tickets, but the agents were completely not helpful about when the next bus would leave. This was not a trivial exercise, as the screens said that the next bus was an hour later.

(5) To figure which bus I was supposed to take, I had to go up to the upper level and read the screens over each bus stop. Sure enough I did not have to wait an hour.

Villa Adriana or Villa d'Este first?

(6) I opted for Villa Adriana first, but this was a pretty unpopular choice. I think I was the only one tourist who went there from Rome on that bus. Two other German tourists got on later on the route.

(7) This "direct" bus to Villa Adriana leaves less frequently than the bus to Tivoli proper. On my particular visit, the "direct" bus left 15 minutes later than the the bus to Tivoli proper, so I thought that it was fine to visit Villa Adriana first. Also I figured that it'd be easier to head this way, as I could ask at the Villa for directions to Villa d'Este later.

On my particular visit, the bus to the Villa left on stop #3 on the upper level; the bus to Tivoli on stop #2.

(8) Bus tickets can be bought at the ticket counters on the lower level (as mentioned above). I bought mine at the cafe. They cost 2.20 euros to Tivoli (or Villa Adriana) and 1.10 euros between Tivoli and Villa Adriana. So the whole Rome-Villa-Tivoli-Rome cost 5.50 euros total.

(9) Have the bus driver let you know where you should get off at the Villa. The stop is close to a playground, and to head to the villa, walk in the opposite direction from the bus. It's a very short walk to the villa.

(10) To go to Tivoli from the Villa, get on bus 4 or 4X (these are local buses) or a Cotral bus at the same stop where you got off (it's signposted "fermata" if I remember correctly). You can find schedules for 4/4X on the ticket window at the Villa.

Instead I took a Cotral bus as it came (though I'm not sure if my ticket allowed me to do that). But I made the mistake of getting off at the last stop, which was not the city center of Tivoli, so I had to backtrack. So if you're unsure, it'd be best to ask the driver for Villa d'Este (or follow the crowds I suppose).

(11) Villa d'Este is a short walk form the bus stop in Tivoli proper (Piazza Garibaldi).

(12) Going back to Rome from Villa d'Este was easy -- the bus leaves from the main square (Piazza Garibaldi). However apparently some buses could be full, so I ran into two tourists who'd taken the bus in the opposite direction from Rome to the last stop (where I got off by mistake), and they told me that they were unable to get off on the first couple of buses that came by.

However I did not have this problem.

One last tip I'd add is that it's probably not a good idea to attempt the trip on a Sunday. Buses leave much less frequently, so you should have a complete grasp of bus schedules to avoid the risk of being stranded. I *think* Villa Adriana might be closed on a Monday -- in any case, check opening hours before you go.

Ok, now the fun part!
111op is offline  
Old May 27th, 2013, 04:21 PM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for this information. I found Tivoli beautiful - the fountains were remarkable. It's well worth a visit and your detailed transport advice will be appreciated on this forum I'm sure.
worldinabag is offline  
Old May 27th, 2013, 04:35 PM
  #3  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,862
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Villa Adriana

This Unesco World Heritage site was built by Emperor Hadrian (emperor 117-138) and comprises about 20-30 buildings. It's unclear to me how big the complex is -- different online sources gives different numbers. A figure of 250 acres is typical and is about 1 square km, which doesn't sound big (1 mile = 1.6 km), but I thought it was really immense and it definitely felt larger than 1 square km.

As with most Roman ruins, little of the complex survives, but I thought that my visit was still very worthwhile. A scale model at the start of the visit provides a scaled reconstruction of what the complex looked like in Hadrian's day.

Two sites are definitely of interest. One is called Teatro Marittimo . There is an island within this circular structure, which supposedly had a private house for the Emperor. He could swim in the waters surrounding the island, and there were drawbridges that provided access from the island. Now this area looks pretty small now.

Another area is the Canopus. This is a beautiful pool with sculptures on both sides. Today only a few remain, and I think they are plaster casts of the originals preserved elsewhere.

As with most Roman ruins I think that a fair amount of imagination and reading is necessary to ensure a fuller appreciation, but the visit was definitely worthwhile and enjoyable. I'd also add that the audio guide was not really necessary, especially if you have a bit of a time constraint like I had. The ruins are fairly well signposted and a map from the ticket office is really all you need to explore, particularly if you've had a chance to read more on the Villa ahead of time.
111op is offline  
Old May 27th, 2013, 04:44 PM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 36,778
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes on 11 Posts
>>>(2) I did not have any bags, so I could have headed straight to the Tiburtina station from FCO and switched to the Metro there. Instead, I went to Termini first instead, which was a waste of time.
kybourbon is offline  
Old May 27th, 2013, 04:59 PM
  #5  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,862
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Villa d'Este

Franz Liszt was inspired by the fountains at Villa d'Este to write a famous piano piece. While I'm not really a Liszt fan, this is one of his few pieces that I actually tolerate (and like!).

I don't really have much to add to the information that's readily available online. This was built during the Renaissance (c. 1570 -- so perhaps late Renaissance?). It's also a Unesco World Heritage site particularly known for its fountains.

I'd say that this definitely exceeded my expectations, maybe because I just didn't expect very much. The modern day entrance is located next to a church and there's not much to see from the outside.

But once inside, the gardens and fountains occupy several levels. This was beautiful -- I don't think that I'd quite seen anything like this before. Unfortunately the weather was not great that day, and it'd started to rain pretty heavily, so I only spent about half an hour looking at the fountains.

So back to Rome.... Incidentally, this whole excursion from Ponte Mammolo and back took about 5 hours.
111op is offline  
Old May 27th, 2013, 05:19 PM
  #6  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,862
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
San Clemente

I chose to visit this church as I'd read about it in my "City Secrets" guidebook. It's one of the most recommended attractions in this guidebook. Mine is probably about 10 years old; I see that there's a newer edition. Helen North (Swarthmore College) has this to say: "This is best introduction I know to the archaelogical 'rabbit-hole' of Rome."

I'd never been to the Scavi ruins before St. Peter's, but I'd imagine that San Clemente shares some similarities in St. Peter's in terms of the way it was built.

There are really three levels in present day San Clemente, one built on top of another (a bit like St. Peter's being built on top of Constantine's basilica). I paid a 5-euro fee to visit the lower levels.

The lowest level is about 30 feet below, where altar remnants of a cult of Mithras were excavated (first or second century AD), as well as a Roman house. One could even see spring water flowing through the walls.

The mid level apparently dates to the fourth century, but the frescoes, including one showing a miracle involving San Clemente, are much older. There is a fresco cycle by Masolino (aided possibly by Masaccio)in the St. Catherine chapel on the upper level. While I'm not an expert, I must say that that the fresco looks fairly modern, so perhaps it's been extensively restored?

This church is definitely worth a visit and is very close to the Colosseum.

Last stop: The exhibition and the painting that brought me to Rome.
111op is offline  
Old May 27th, 2013, 05:29 PM
  #7  
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 10,265
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Nice! I am jealous you got to see the Tiziano exhibition.
Leely2 is offline  
Old May 27th, 2013, 06:56 PM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 36,778
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes on 11 Posts
I haven't been to San Clemente yet, but the Scavi at St. Peter's is very humid. Was it humid in the lower levels of San Clemente?
kybourbon is offline  
Old May 27th, 2013, 07:04 PM
  #9  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,862
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi, it didn't seem overwhelmingly humid. And I don't think it was too claustrophobic either based on what I've read about the Scavi tours. It was dark but there was sufficient lighting. It was interesting to see how one layer was built on top of another. I guess prior to the excavations the older structures were probably filled in to make way for the newer ones.

And everyone, thanks for the comments!
111op is offline  
Old May 27th, 2013, 07:05 PM
  #10  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,862
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
P.S. The frescoes in the mid level are much more *recent*, I meant to write, I think around the 8th or 9th century.
111op is offline  
Old May 27th, 2013, 07:44 PM
  #11  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,862
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Titian exhibition

Michael Kimmelman of the NYT has described Titian's "Flaying of Marsyas" as Titian's "most haunted work." This painting closed the exhibition in Rome. It can normally be found in Kromeriz in the Czech Republic in the Archbishop's Chateau, which interestingly is itself a Unesco World Heritage site.

Knowing that this painting would be in Rome, I decided to see it. This late work is regarded as one of Titian's most important.

The exhibition was quite an eye opener and covered Titian's entire career. One could really see how his style evolved dramatically in 60 years. The exhibition was arranged thematically rather than chronologically so two stylistically very different pictures were frequently within a few feet of each other.

Titian's great altarpiece for the Gesuit church in Venice on the martyrdom of St. Lawrence opened the exhibition. This was followed by a number of impressive altarpieces and religious paintings on the first floor. Most of these I'd never seen before -- there were two paintings from El Escorial in Spain. The second floor showed some of Titian's most famous portraits, including Flora from the Uffizi, Charles V with Dog from Prado, as well as Danae from the Capodimonte in Naples.

Don't miss this if you find yourself in Rome within the next two weeks (before the exhibition closes).
111op is offline  
Old May 27th, 2013, 07:52 PM
  #12  
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The logistics you have described will be useful as we plan a day trip to Tivoli in the fall. Thanks for sharing the information and your impressions!
2010 is offline  
Old May 28th, 2013, 08:49 AM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
That was the coolest just 'winging it' daytrip I have ever read.

>>

They are fairly certain that it was Emperor Hadrian's 'get away from it all' spot.

It was surrounded by a wall and even had a moot, definitely an ancient 'Do Not Disturb' sign.

It was actually a fully functioning mini-villa with bedrooms, cold/hot baths and a latrine.

Pliny the Younger did something along the same lines at his seaside villa (his personal retreat was his mini-villa within a villa.

>>

The originals are in the museum alongside the Canopus along with other artifacts found in the excavations, at least those that weren't carted-away to other museums earlier.

St. Clemente >>

I assume you mean that lighted hole in the wall where you look down and see/hear the water flowing?

100yrs ago you would have been swimming around the lowest level.

That is a modern (100yrs) drain put in that connects to the Colosseum's cloaca (drain) before that the water just keep very slowly seeping in and flooding that level.
Rostra is offline  
Old May 28th, 2013, 01:03 PM
  #14  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,862
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks! Yes, I didn't know it was a modern drain. In the City Secrets guidebook, George Bisacca (conservator of paintings at the Met) gives a very nice description of San Clemente, including the following: "While exploring these spaces one becomes aware of the presence of water and the sound of water flowing. This underground river flows continuously and may come from a hidden spring. It has also been suggested that it comes from an aqueduct built to supply these 1st-century buildings. You are standing thirty feet below street level."

During my next trip to Rome, I'll try to see Livia's frescoes -- always good to plan ahead.
111op is offline  
Old May 29th, 2013, 12:33 PM
  #15  
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 248
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
>>

The aqueduct theory is interesting.
Rome still uses the ancient aqueduct underground conduits, the Aqueduct Virgo's underground conduit supplies the water for the Trevi Fountain.

But we do have an actual "underground river" (the modern Via Labicana is named after it) that runs right by this site that was likely 1st an open canal and later an underground vaulted stone drain like the Cloaca Maxima.

This is how the ancient Romans reclaimed land that was once a malaria infested marsh and then built over it (the Roman Forum was their 1st, 600's BC).

The lowest level of the church is actually the 5th level that the Romans had built over this underground drain, after the 64AD Fire the area was filled-in and rebuilt over.

So this ancient stream drain is way down there somewhere.
The modern drain is at the pre-64 level (4th) 18ft below this church site.

This stream still flows far beneath today's streetlevel but what would happen if the ancient stone drain became blocked (totally or partically)?

These ancient drains have many inlets for street rain run-off, latrines, baths, used or overflow water from aqueduct supplied things (fountains, drinking water sources, etc.

The backed-up water in these drains would then be disbursed over a long wide area =+=|==|==|==|=
far underground and rising to some level.

I always get longwinded but that is the theory I like.

You can see that stream here
http://tinyurl.com/ozemtps
To the right of the 'Velia' the Colosseum stands at the 90deg turn and the stream turns right and goes up the Via Labicana past San Clemente.

Also you can see the other streams where the land was reclaimed (Roman Forum, Circus Maximus, Field of Mars).
Rostra is offline  
Old May 30th, 2013, 07:40 PM
  #16  
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 36,778
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes on 11 Posts
If anyone is interested in doing the brief tour (Rome/Tiziano) it seem there is a hotel/exhibit combo offered by the city's booking agent.

http://www.coopculture.it/en/events.cfm?id=102
kybourbon is offline  
Old Jun 10th, 2013, 05:35 AM
  #17  
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
For the catacombs:
Option 1: from Termini, take the 714 to Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano, then switch to bus 218 and get off at the
stop “Fosse Aredeatine”; the entrance is directly across from bus stop.
Option 2: take the metro B to Piramide, then from in front of the station take bus 118 and get off at the stop
“Catacombe S. Callisto”

To get to Tivoli:
Option 1: train from Termini station - about 1 hr. 15 mins. - €3
Option 2: Cotral bus (these are large blue buses) from Ponte Mammolo (metro line B) - between 40-70 mins
depending on traffic - €2
mike1964 is offline  
Old Jun 10th, 2013, 03:53 PM
  #18  
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great info Mike, thanks. In terms of walking distance to the town what's the best option for Tivoli, bus or train?
worldinabag is offline  
Old Jun 10th, 2013, 04:42 PM
  #19  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,862
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I don't know about the train, but I can say that the bus definitely drops you within a short walking distance of the attractions. The bus stops at Piazza Garibaldi (I think it's called), which is the town center and where Villa d'Este is.

As I mentioned, just make sure that you get off at the right stop. When I was coming from Hadrian's Villa, I got off at the last stop of the bus, which is actually a few stops after the town center.

It's definitely useful to know that you can go to Tivoli without going through Termini if you're doing a day trip from FCO, like I was. I guess it doesn't come up very often, but I'm sure there are people passing through Rome looking to do something different.
111op is offline  
Old Aug 29th, 2013, 07:37 AM
  #20  
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I think the bus is best solution, the train station is about 1 km...
If you are more of 4 people and you have few time to spend you can take a private transfer service, I know of alltransfersinrome.com , I used their service many times.
mike1964 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jdp08050
Europe
9
Feb 25th, 2016 01:40 PM
isabel
Europe
9
Jun 12th, 2010 04:25 AM
Julie_Hurst
Europe
9
Aug 18th, 2007 06:59 AM
daisy58
Europe
4
Jan 13th, 2006 08:49 AM
0311
Europe
4
Nov 13th, 2005 05:35 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -