Two Weeks in Beautiful Dordogne - Trip Report
 

I've been back home a little over a month now, so decided I'd better get to this before everything is a blur. First, I want to thank you many Fodorites who were so helpful with my planning - this forum is invaluable! - St. Cirq, with her expert knowledge of the Dordogne, Stu Dudley with his wonderful itinerary which he so generously shared - and everyone else. Also, Ger, with her beautiful and inspiring trip report of her few days in the Dordogne. I can't possibly equal her lovely report - and won't even try - but her descriptive writing about the area expressed my feelings, too. And St. Cirq's descriptions inspired me to go! Anyway, I'll try to give mostly practical information about the hotels I stayed in, my itinerary, etc. And maybe this can help with future planning for some of you.

My plane arrived around 9:20 at CDG, fortunately on time, as I had bought a PREM ticket to Angouleme from Montparnasse, leaving at 12:15. Took the Air France Bus, and arrived without much time to spare - next time I might take a taxi! The TGV to Angouleme worked out perfectly, arriving there at 2:30. Enjoyed the relaxing ride. Picked up my car at Avis at the train station, and off to Bourdeilles for the first 3 nights of my 2-week sojourn. This was the first 2 weeks of May, and the weather couldn't have been more perfect the whole trip!

The hotel in the lovely village of Bourdeilles was the Hostellerie Les Griffons - a wonderful place in every way.
I recommend this place with absolutely no qualifications - beaufiful room with a view of the old mill on the Dronne River from one big window, and a view of the medieval bridge from the other. I had the demi-pension, and each dinner was wonderful, I thought a real bargain. Bourdeilles has a wonderful chateau - both Medieval and Renaissance sections.

Bourdeilles is just a short drive to Brantome, (where I had thought about staying for my northern Dordogne days, but am so glad I didn't). Brantome is a pretty town, but was very crowded with tourists the day I was there (a French holiday, Ascension Day).
It was difficult to find parking, and I had a feeling it's probably like that in the summer most of the time. Anyway, I didn't stay there long, and then drove to the Chateau de Jumilac le Grand, through beautiful forests. The northern Dordogne is quite lovely, and very little traffic. This is a real fairytale castle, with many turrets, and I enjoyed the guided tour. This castle is only open on weekend and holiday afternoons, so I was lucky to be there on a holiday. I liked this chateau (but preferred the Chateau de Bourdeilles).

The next day, I decided to go to see Perigueux. However, after driving somewhere into the city, I was too confused and overwhelmed - and made my way back out without even stopping! So much for Perigueux.
Anyway, the drive there was on a minor road, which was very pretty (I had gotten lost and ended up on that road!). I stopped by the Abbey de Chancelade, then back through Brantome to St.Jean de Cole, for a stroll thru the village and lunch (a miserable pizza!) - then arrived at the Chateau de Puyguilem just in time for the 2:00 PM tour.
The guide was great - so funny, and I could understand all his French (he was most accomodating to me!). After that I drove to the nearby Cave de Villars, with beautiful formations and some prehistoric paintings. All in all, a great day - in spite of Perigueux!

The next day, Saturday, I set off for my next hotel destination, the Manoir Hautegente, in Coly. I took a route on tiny roads over to Hautefort, planning to stop and see the chateau and gardens. Naturally, the drive there (which I enjoyed immensely on the deserted roads)took longer than planned, and I arrived at closing time (lunchtime). Oh, well, I saw the imposing chateau from the outside, and looked down upon the gardens, and decided I didn't need to see another chateau that soon anyway. I drove through Terrasson, walked around a bit
and across the lovely 12th century bridge - it's a very pretty town. Then on my way to the hotel.

The Manoir Hautegente is another winner of a hotel, elegant, with absolutely gorgeous grounds - with a wonderful restaurant. I had their only single room, which was small, but beautiful, overlooking the grounds. This place has been in the same family for 350 years, and is run with great care by a youngish couple (his mother has just about retired). I also had the demi-pension here, terrific bargain - second night they let me order anything I wanted on the menu. This room, including the demi-pension, was 85 euros/night (I couldn't believe it!). I wish I had booked there for longer than 2 nights!

While in this area (near Lascaux) I visited the huge fortified Romanesque church at St.Amand de Coly - so interesting, and well worth seeing. Then one day, I visited the Chateau Losse on the Vezere River, which has beautiful gardens. Then did a "Michelin drive" which included St. Leon de Vezere, among other places on the Vezere. It was a gorgeous day, and I really enjoyed everything. I had reserved an English tour at Lascaux II, for 4:30. There were MANY people at Lascaux. Believe it or not, I was the only English-speaking person on my tour -I was in the middle of a Japanese bus load! Everything the English-speaking guide said was translated in Japanese by their tourguide. Anyway, we lingered at each painting a little longer that way! It was amazing, even though a replica of the real thing. It was well worth going, but did not affect me the same way that Font de Gaume and Pech Merle did later.

Next destination - Sarlat for 5 nights, will continue later ....

Looking forward to the next segment!

Enjoying your report ...
will look forward to your next installment.

Sounds like a wonderful trip, look forward to reading more...

Well, here's more. It's Monday morning, another beautiful day, and I hate to leave the Manoir Hautegente, but I'm off to Sarlat, taking a western route to see Turenne and Collonges-la-Rouge first. I didn't make it to Turenne until noon, as of course I made some wrong turns along the way - but again a lovely drive. Turenne is gorgeous, one of the "plus belles villes de France". Well worth seeing, and a nice uphill climb to the chateau, which is mostly to see the beautiful view from the top and along the way. I almost didn't go all the way up, but a nice French Canadian couple encouraged me to keep going with them. I met so many nice people on this trip, mostly Canadians and British - saw very few Americans.

After leaving Turenne, I headed for Collonges, which isn't far. That's a beautiful village, of course, but extremely touristy. There were many busloads of tourists (mostly French) there - and the place didn't seem to be lived in, just boutique shops. I was glad I saw it, but of the two places I preferred Turenne. I again ran into the same French Canadian couple there and enjoyed chatting with them. I drove down through Beaulieu-s-Dordogne on my way to Sarlat, and wanted to stop, but didn't because of the time. Maybe next time, as it looked pretty.

Heading south, there was alot more traffic, winding roads, and I was tired!
As I had been previously told on here, driving into Sarlat was SLOW, especially in the late afternoon. I was staying at the Hotel Le Renoir, and was getting panicky wondering how I would find it, in the midst of all those cars.
Well, luckily, I saw their sign and was in the correct lane to make the turn to their street. The hotel was quite nice, (is a Best Western), had been recently redone, and was a short walk into the old city. Parking COULD have been a problem, as it's all on the street. I was always able to find something fairly close, though, so it worked out. Sarlat is beautiful, and it was nice being able to walk into town every night for dinner. Having said that, I think next time I would stay outside of Sarlat because of the traffic, especially in the afternoon. Getting out everyday wasn't a problem. For 5 nights, though, this hotel was great, as the room was large, quiet, nicely decorated, comfortable, and I got a great rate of 63 euros (senior rate on the Best Western site). Normally this room goes for 130 euros (in season). So I was quite satisfied!

There were lots of good, reasonable restaurants in Sarlat. I can recommend Le Tourney, Le Mirandol, and especially Les Quatres Saisons. I had all good intentions of trying some of the restaurants along the river, at least for lunch (like Le Belle Etoile, Hotel Bonnet), but never was hungry enough at lunchtime, and didn't want to drive back out of Sarlat for dinner. And Sarlat is beautiful to walk around. I enjoyed the Wednesday market there, but didn't make the Saturday one, which is much bigger.

During my 4 full days in Sarlat, I really did alot, but of course not everything I had planned! Went to Font de Gaume, a highlight not to be missed.
Absolutely amazing - you feel almost like you're in a holy place there. They only allow 10 or so people in at a time, and unfortunately I was stuck with a group of very talkative Americans (mostly women) on a tour. They finally did begin to shut up, but were annoying, and I was embarrassed that the lovely French guide had to put up with that. (I'm American, so have a right to say this)!! After Font de Gaume, I drove to La Roche Christophe, which was great. I almost didn't stop, but was so glad I did.

After the Wednesday market, I went to Beynac, and made the climb up to the chateau. The views were worth the steep climb, and I thought the chateau was, too. Then I headed for the Chateau de Milandes, but couldn't find a parking place. Then I drove to the Jardins de Marqueyssac. Beautiful place! There is much walking there, and I wished I hadn't been so tired from the Beynac climb. I'll go back, as the views are breathtaking.

One day I drove to Montpazier, and loved it, and the drive there. It was market day there, so that was great. I heard many British accents - more than French. On the way back I stopped at Cadouin to see the beautiful cloisters.
Another day I took one of the Michelin drives along the river to Montfort, then to see the Chateau Fenelon (lovely, quiet place) and to the Jardins d'Eyrinac. Everywhere the drives are beautiful in the Dordogne.
I think I enjoyed the bucolic, non-traffic roads more than the spectacular ones. Probably because there are anxious cars in back of me, while I'm trying to sightsee! My next segment of this trip was over to the Rocamadour area, and then to the Cele and Lot Valleys. More later.....

Would be interested in more on Jardins de E.... Also, will be curious to hear what you think of the road into the Lot valley. So far, a very interesting report!

Hopingtotravel, I'm going to finish up this report later, and will have more on the Lot Valley then. Although truthfully, I didn't spend much time there. I was in Figeac, and was on the Cele Valley road more. In answer to your question about the Jardin d'Eyrinac, well, it's quite lovely and different. All greenery, trees, shrubs -no flowers to speak of. They have a guide there, you can't just wander around by yourself. I was glad I went, but wouldn't make a special point of it if you only have a short time in the Dordogne. But if you happen to love gardens in the French style, it's probably one of the best.

Thanks for a lovely report, Sue.

Looking forward to more.

((I))

Well, Saturday, and time to leave Sarlat for my next destination, the Domaine de la Rhue near Rocamadour. As I was checking out of Le Renoir, the manager told me that I was just missing a tour group of 60 Americans and one of 20 Japanese, checking in today - whew! How lucky could I be? Decided to spend a little more time near the river, so drove over to La Roche Gageac, arriving just in time for the gabarre boat trip, which I thoroughly enjoyed. You get a different perspective from the river, and loved seeing the falcon circling above us, as well as a closeby eagle's nest, with the eaglets and mother circling them - lovely.

After this I headed towards Martel, taking the beautiful south river bank route, the"Route de Noix". After a bit of walking around Martel, I arrived at the Domaine de la Rhue in early afternoon. That is a beautiful, huge spread, with hundreds of sheep, lovely rooms, and wonderful, helpful owners. The rooms are in the beautifully redone stables, and just perfect. That afternoon I had time to take the gorgeous Autoire, Loubressac, Carennac drive, with spectacular views. This is well worth it, so do it if you're in the area. Had a great dinner at the Restaurant du Chateau, up at the top of Rocamadour - very nice place.

Toured Rocamadour the next day - it wasn't crowded at all, and I really liked it. I parked at the top near the chateau and walked down, taking the ascenseurs back up - that seems to be the best way to do it. The owner at my hotel,La Rhue, had great maps of the area - she couldn't have been nicer.
In the afternoon I went to the Gouffre de Padirac. Again, not too crowded, and much fun - amazing place and quite worthwhile. Had a really great dinner at a rustic place near Rocamadour, called La Roc de Bergers - everything cooked over a woodfire, delicious! This was a place for families, and much fun, very authentic. Seemed to be mostly locals there for their "Sunday night family dinner".

Next day, Monday, I checked out early and headed towards Figeac, stopping at the Chateau Montal and Cere. Arrived in Figeac in the afternoon, in time to walk around and see the town. I stayed at the Hotel Pont d'Or (a Great Western), which was well-located just across from the bridge to the old town. Hotel was OK, but I didn't like the man on desk, who refused to recommend a place for dinner. When I asked him at 4:30, he said "Oh, it's too early to worry about that!" Anyway, with the help of my guidebooks, I managed to find 2 great restaurants for my 2 nights.

My last full day, Tuesday, started out early for my 9:30 reservation at Pech Merle. I really loved this place, fascinating and so well-presented, a real "must-see"of the caves. Then I drove over to the Lot Valley road, and saw St. Cirq Lapopie, mostly from the parking lot up high - didn't walk around, as I was tired, and thought the view was enough.
Didn't do the whole Lot Valley route, as I headed back over to the Cele Valley, which was a lovely route back to Figeac.

Next day, my last, I went to the Musee Champollion in the AM before turning in my car at the gare and taking the 1:00 PM train back to Paris. The train ride was lovely and relaxing. Beautiful scenery of the yellow fields (rape?) and lovely wildflowers everywhere. The French countryside is wonderful in May.
In Paris, I walked across the bridge from Austerlitz over to the Holiday Inn near Gare de Lyon for the night - didn't arrive in Paris until 7:00 PM, so that was about it for Paris this trip. The Holiday Inn was fine for my purpose, close to the Air France Bus for CDG the next morning, and I got a great rate on the website. However, I wouldn't stay in that area for more than one night!

All in all, I enjoyed this trip immensely and was so glad I decided to do the whole 2 weeks in the Dordogne area. I certainly hope to go back, and fully intend to.

Sue, your report is making me wish I'd spent more days in the Dordogne. We too, viewed St. Cirq from the upper parking lot. Frankly, the road there exhausted me! However, with more time I think we would have wandered around town. Maybe another trip.