Two Ladies on the Loose in Paris - dln and Marcy trip report!
Jan 22nd, 2005, 08:52 PM
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I'm in Girl Heaven reading your trip report. What a good time you had and how well you two get along. It makes a trip double the fun. I'll be staying at the Bonaparte in July so I particularly enjoyed the shopping tips for that area. By the way, do you know when the sales are on in July? I have my fingers crossed now.
Jan 23rd, 2005, 09:33 AM
#143
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Ahhhhh... Paris sounds so wonderful to experience with a good girlfriend!! I love being there with my husband, but I NEVER could get him to do the kind of shopping you guys did. AND I could definitely not convince him to go to the ballet. Now I realize that I'm definitely missing out! So, I just emailed my sisters and mom to see if they want to do the same girl's-only trip to Paris next winter!
Thanks for the wonderful information, descriptions and photos. I'm cutting and pasting everything into my Paris file for my June trip with my husband -- he's going to the airshow so at least I will have one or two days to shop!!
Thanks for the wonderful information, descriptions and photos. I'm cutting and pasting everything into my Paris file for my June trip with my husband -- he's going to the airshow so at least I will have one or two days to shop!!
Jan 24th, 2005, 12:15 PM
#146
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Why, thank you! I was going to let this sink since the both of us already posted our shopping finds. But now that's is up on the top of the column again, I'll add just a few more observations.
Marcy and I spent a lot of time in the St. Germaine des Pres neighborhood. It's a browsers' and shoppers' paradise! A nice mix of shops, too--home decor, antiques, clothing, jewelry--something for everyone. We had lunch one afternoon at <b>Laduree</b> on 21 Rue Bonaparte. Marcy took a photo of it, but it really doesn't do it justice. The dining room is beautiful! The walls are frescoed on an Oriental tea house theme. There are peacocks and palm trees painted in exotic landscapes. The banquette seats around the perimeter of the room are lavishly upholstered in soothing shades of maroon, blue, and turquoise. The bathroom is done in an elegant antique style and a nice fragrant candle was burning. Can you tell I really liked Laduree? Of course, this would mean nothing if the food weren't good, but such was not the case! Marcy had a delicious salad (see her photo) and I had an omelette, both of which we enjoyed.
I wasn't so crazy about <b>Angelina's</b> on Rue de Rivoli as was Marcy. I thought it looked a little careworn with its scrappy carpeting and dated color scheme. I will say, though, that the murals are lovely. Marcy's chocolate, which she generously shared with me, lived up to the famous reputation. If you're a chocolate fiend, you won't be disappointed. I ordered a coffee, which I asked for in french, and yet the waitress gave me NOT a cafe, French cafe, but an American coffee. I thought it was a bit presumptuous of her to assume that I wanted coffee when I specifically asked for <i>cafe.</i> Oh well. Maybe they've had too many Americans complaining about receiving expresso when they asked for coffee?
Marcy and I visited the <b>Museum Nissim de Camodo</b> which skirts the edge of Parc Monceau. Make the time to see this elegant mansion! It's a glimpse into another time, not to mention that it tells a heartbreaking story of a vanished family. The area around Parc Monceau, and the park itself are very swank and make for excellent strolling. The public restrooms in the park, by the way, are clean and safe and free, just like the ones at Sacre Coeur. We stepped into the <b>Cathedral St. Alexander Nevsky,</b> not too many blocks away. Another must-see, this Russian Orthodox church is very beautiful and exotic and not at all like other Catholic and Protestant churches in its architecture. There's a Russian cafe across the street from it.
Marcy and I spent a lot of time in the St. Germaine des Pres neighborhood. It's a browsers' and shoppers' paradise! A nice mix of shops, too--home decor, antiques, clothing, jewelry--something for everyone. We had lunch one afternoon at <b>Laduree</b> on 21 Rue Bonaparte. Marcy took a photo of it, but it really doesn't do it justice. The dining room is beautiful! The walls are frescoed on an Oriental tea house theme. There are peacocks and palm trees painted in exotic landscapes. The banquette seats around the perimeter of the room are lavishly upholstered in soothing shades of maroon, blue, and turquoise. The bathroom is done in an elegant antique style and a nice fragrant candle was burning. Can you tell I really liked Laduree? Of course, this would mean nothing if the food weren't good, but such was not the case! Marcy had a delicious salad (see her photo) and I had an omelette, both of which we enjoyed.
I wasn't so crazy about <b>Angelina's</b> on Rue de Rivoli as was Marcy. I thought it looked a little careworn with its scrappy carpeting and dated color scheme. I will say, though, that the murals are lovely. Marcy's chocolate, which she generously shared with me, lived up to the famous reputation. If you're a chocolate fiend, you won't be disappointed. I ordered a coffee, which I asked for in french, and yet the waitress gave me NOT a cafe, French cafe, but an American coffee. I thought it was a bit presumptuous of her to assume that I wanted coffee when I specifically asked for <i>cafe.</i> Oh well. Maybe they've had too many Americans complaining about receiving expresso when they asked for coffee?
Marcy and I visited the <b>Museum Nissim de Camodo</b> which skirts the edge of Parc Monceau. Make the time to see this elegant mansion! It's a glimpse into another time, not to mention that it tells a heartbreaking story of a vanished family. The area around Parc Monceau, and the park itself are very swank and make for excellent strolling. The public restrooms in the park, by the way, are clean and safe and free, just like the ones at Sacre Coeur. We stepped into the <b>Cathedral St. Alexander Nevsky,</b> not too many blocks away. Another must-see, this Russian Orthodox church is very beautiful and exotic and not at all like other Catholic and Protestant churches in its architecture. There's a Russian cafe across the street from it.
Jan 24th, 2005, 12:52 PM
#147
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Some more notes I've uncovered:
Marcy ordered Angelina's famous dessert, the Mont Blanc. It's an interesting dessert which is well worth ordering because you probably won't find the likes of it here. It starts with a base of hard meringue (think of the merinque cookies that are so popular now, or something on the order of the English Pavlova) which is covered with a heap of freshly whipped unsweetened cream which has on top of it chestnut cream (think of the batter of squash pie with a healthy dose of flour or other thickener added to it). The whole thing eaten together was delicious. the sum of the parts was better than each of the parts. Angelina's presentation was particularly pretty. The Mont Blancs at Laduree weren't as attractive as the chestnut cream was piped out in ugly little squiggles and Angelina's was smoothed out. I can't tell about a comparative taste test, though, as we sampled only Angelina's. (Though I would have liked to have tasted the offering at that gorgeous bakery, Gerard Mulot--everyone of theirs was incredible looking!)
We had our last Parisian dinner at a very good bistro named <b>Bistrot Mazarin</b> on 42 Rue Mazarine. I had <i>saute de boeuf olive</i> and Marcy enjoyed <i>coq au vin.</i> The food was well-cooked, service professional and quick, and we had a good dinner. The only downside was the extreme smokiness, but that's something we found at pretty well everywhere we went.
Last thing: if you should find yourself on Rue de Seine, peek into the courtyard at #49 to the shop Au Fond de la Cour. Tres charmante! Another pretty little stop is Rue Jaque Callot, and Square de Furstenburg. All are found in the St. Germaine des Pres neighborhood.
Marcy ordered Angelina's famous dessert, the Mont Blanc. It's an interesting dessert which is well worth ordering because you probably won't find the likes of it here. It starts with a base of hard meringue (think of the merinque cookies that are so popular now, or something on the order of the English Pavlova) which is covered with a heap of freshly whipped unsweetened cream which has on top of it chestnut cream (think of the batter of squash pie with a healthy dose of flour or other thickener added to it). The whole thing eaten together was delicious. the sum of the parts was better than each of the parts. Angelina's presentation was particularly pretty. The Mont Blancs at Laduree weren't as attractive as the chestnut cream was piped out in ugly little squiggles and Angelina's was smoothed out. I can't tell about a comparative taste test, though, as we sampled only Angelina's. (Though I would have liked to have tasted the offering at that gorgeous bakery, Gerard Mulot--everyone of theirs was incredible looking!)
We had our last Parisian dinner at a very good bistro named <b>Bistrot Mazarin</b> on 42 Rue Mazarine. I had <i>saute de boeuf olive</i> and Marcy enjoyed <i>coq au vin.</i> The food was well-cooked, service professional and quick, and we had a good dinner. The only downside was the extreme smokiness, but that's something we found at pretty well everywhere we went.
Last thing: if you should find yourself on Rue de Seine, peek into the courtyard at #49 to the shop Au Fond de la Cour. Tres charmante! Another pretty little stop is Rue Jaque Callot, and Square de Furstenburg. All are found in the St. Germaine des Pres neighborhood.
Jan 24th, 2005, 01:07 PM
#148
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What a great report, thank you dln and Marcy! I went to Paris with my dh and children, and one day ds asked me if we were on a vacation or a shopping trip
Sounds like you two had a fantastic time!
Sounds like you two had a fantastic time!
Jan 24th, 2005, 01:08 PM
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An interesting historical note about the Alexander Nevsky cathedral is that it was the site of Pablo Picasso's wedding to his first wife, Russian ballerina Olga Khokhlova. Among the guests were Cocteau, Gertrude Stein, and Matisse.
Jan 24th, 2005, 01:35 PM
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wow.. what a fantastic trip report! I live in Europe, Paris is a short skip away, all I need is a girl friend to share the same experience.
dln and marcy, thanks for posting and cheers to your great friendship!
dln and marcy, thanks for posting and cheers to your great friendship!
Feb 5th, 2005, 09:59 AM
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dln and marcy this post is divine! I am drooling on my keyboard over the descriptions of the shopping and the food [is there a french term for "keyboard licking" 
]
I can positively taste the yogurt and creamy chevre that became a daily routine when I visited 2 years ago.
Did you try Pierre Herme's macarons? I have to admit I have not had Lauderee's.
Marcy my one rule on shoe shopping is "buy now, ask later". Of course this may explain the 300 (and counting) pairs taking up residence in my closet.
Did someone mention a girl's shopping trip - where do I sign up??
I am wishing away the next few months until my next trip to Paris at the end of May. I'll be on my own for most of it and you have given me many fabulous ideas.
You two must have minds like steel traps to remember all of this in such detail. Thanks so much for sharing!
] I can positively taste the yogurt and creamy chevre that became a daily routine when I visited 2 years ago.
Did you try Pierre Herme's macarons? I have to admit I have not had Lauderee's.
Marcy my one rule on shoe shopping is "buy now, ask later". Of course this may explain the 300 (and counting) pairs taking up residence in my closet.
Did someone mention a girl's shopping trip - where do I sign up??
I am wishing away the next few months until my next trip to Paris at the end of May. I'll be on my own for most of it and you have given me many fabulous ideas.
You two must have minds like steel traps to remember all of this in such detail. Thanks so much for sharing!
Feb 5th, 2005, 10:10 AM
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Thanks for the kind words, whiskey!
I think I need to adopt your philosophy on shoe shopping!
I have tried the macarons at Pierre Hermé, and they are wonderful, too. In fact all the pastries there were fabulous-looking -- almost too pretty to eat.
Pleas make sure to report back after your trip in May-- no need to have a mind like a steel trap (I sure don't)-- just jot down a few notes so that you can tell us all the great places you discover!
I think I need to adopt your philosophy on shoe shopping!
I have tried the macarons at Pierre Hermé, and they are wonderful, too. In fact all the pastries there were fabulous-looking -- almost too pretty to eat.
Pleas make sure to report back after your trip in May-- no need to have a mind like a steel trap (I sure don't)-- just jot down a few notes so that you can tell us all the great places you discover!
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