Two Ladies on the Loose in Paris - dln and Marcy trip report!
Jan 22nd, 2005, 12:52 AM
#81
Betsy, I think the French word a day e-mail that Crefloors referred to might be the one available at this website:
http://french-word-a-day.typepad.com.../la_chair.html
http://french-word-a-day.typepad.com.../la_chair.html
Jan 22nd, 2005, 04:43 AM
#82
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Great trip report. You hit on several places near and dear to our hearts-Gerard Mulot and Le Comptoir Relais. We go to Gerard Mulot for a goodie for the plane home. I love the little cakes and tart the French have. Much better than getting a slice of a cake the way we do here. Also the Le Comptoir Relais was the breakfast room when we stayed at the Relais St Germain. So many times people passing by would stop and try to get in to have breakfast with us.
Also thanks for the information about the Fromagerie and the Bouillion Racine. We will be in Paris in March and I have added that information to my file.We will be staying at the Hotel Madison this time. Anywhere that serves sweetbreads is somewhere I want to eat.
I trained with a French woman chef whose lesson on snails started with 'Starve the snails for 6 weeks...' It has become a family joke. Also when we were in St Remy last year we passed a snail farm. We were wondering if there were snail cowboys.
Also thanks for the information about the Fromagerie and the Bouillion Racine. We will be in Paris in March and I have added that information to my file.We will be staying at the Hotel Madison this time. Anywhere that serves sweetbreads is somewhere I want to eat.
I trained with a French woman chef whose lesson on snails started with 'Starve the snails for 6 weeks...' It has become a family joke. Also when we were in St Remy last year we passed a snail farm. We were wondering if there were snail cowboys.
Jan 22nd, 2005, 04:45 AM
#83
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DLN: I'm lovin' the trip report! Question about shopping in Marais -- how did you know where to find the shops? Did you just wander around or did you do research before the trip?
Also, were there nice women's shoe stores in the Marais? (I'm looking for very sleek, modern--yet feminine--French shoe designs and was wondering if the Marais had these boutiques, or if I was better off exploring in other areas. Also trying to avoid the same brands I can get here (Jimmy Choo, Manolo Blahnik, Prada...not interested in those.)
Anyway, thanks a bunch!
--Betty (NYC)
Also, were there nice women's shoe stores in the Marais? (I'm looking for very sleek, modern--yet feminine--French shoe designs and was wondering if the Marais had these boutiques, or if I was better off exploring in other areas. Also trying to avoid the same brands I can get here (Jimmy Choo, Manolo Blahnik, Prada...not interested in those.)
Anyway, thanks a bunch!
--Betty (NYC)
Jan 22nd, 2005, 04:53 AM
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Kelbert,
Yes, one of the teas I bought from Mariage Frères was Imperial Wedding, and it does have the most amazing chocolate-y aroma! When I got home from the trip my suitcase smelled so good.
Another one I bought was Marco Polo. And at Fauchon I bought Soir de France, with blood orange and apricot-- yumm!
I haven't tried them yet, but I can't wait!
Another shopping stop right by the Place de la Madeleine was Rosemarie Schulz, at 30 rue Boissy d'Anglas--<b><i>Beautiful</i></b> things made from rosebuds and rosepetals. I bought a couple of lace-covered rose sachets to bring home as gifts.
Take a look at their gorgeous website:
http://www.rosemarie-schulz.de/html/contact.html
Yes, one of the teas I bought from Mariage Frères was Imperial Wedding, and it does have the most amazing chocolate-y aroma! When I got home from the trip my suitcase smelled so good.
Another one I bought was Marco Polo. And at Fauchon I bought Soir de France, with blood orange and apricot-- yumm!
I haven't tried them yet, but I can't wait!
Another shopping stop right by the Place de la Madeleine was Rosemarie Schulz, at 30 rue Boissy d'Anglas--<b><i>Beautiful</i></b> things made from rosebuds and rosepetals. I bought a couple of lace-covered rose sachets to bring home as gifts.
Take a look at their gorgeous website:
http://www.rosemarie-schulz.de/html/contact.html
Jan 22nd, 2005, 05:13 AM
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AGM Cape Cod,
I, too, had stayed at the Relais St. Germain on a couple of previous trips and loved eating breakfast there.
Then on a recent trip we stayed at the Madison, also. I'll be curious to hear your comparison of the two hotels. Please do report back!
bettyo, Yes, there are some good shoe stores in the Marais, but I'll be darned if I can tell you where they are-- sorry!
One that I particularly liked was on a corner, somewhere near Rue des Francs Bourgeois and Rue Vielle du Temple - housed in an old patisserie with the original old painted windows.
I had my eye on a pair of very pointed-toed flats with a large buckle over the toe, and dln talked me out of them. Darn! Non-buyer's remorse! I'm always on the lookout for shoes that I can walk in that still look fashionable.
I, too, had stayed at the Relais St. Germain on a couple of previous trips and loved eating breakfast there.
Then on a recent trip we stayed at the Madison, also. I'll be curious to hear your comparison of the two hotels. Please do report back!
bettyo, Yes, there are some good shoe stores in the Marais, but I'll be darned if I can tell you where they are-- sorry!
One that I particularly liked was on a corner, somewhere near Rue des Francs Bourgeois and Rue Vielle du Temple - housed in an old patisserie with the original old painted windows.
I had my eye on a pair of very pointed-toed flats with a large buckle over the toe, and dln talked me out of them. Darn! Non-buyer's remorse! I'm always on the lookout for shoes that I can walk in that still look fashionable.
Jan 22nd, 2005, 05:27 AM
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I have to add my initials to those thanking you for this terrific thread! It's been decades since I visited Paris, but you are tempting me. I've never been to St. Etienne du Mont, never thought of the visual pleasures of using the bus system instead of the metro (Can you give us any tips?), and (until now) never thought of a specialty-shop itinerary. I may have to print out your posts. And what is the French word for "samples"? Now I'm off to take a look at the photographs. Abientot, J.
Jan 22nd, 2005, 05:31 AM
#88
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Marcy, it's a good thing I talked you out of those shoes! They didn't suit you at all (and you know I wouldn't lead you astray on an important thing like shoes). Betty, the Marais is wonderful place for shopping. We simply wandered around the small side streets here and there. I don't think you'll have a problem finding shoe shops. If there's one thing Parisians love, it's shoes and handbags. No shortage of either! (Says she who came home with three new handbags to her name.) Kelbert, Marcy and I really enjoyed going into Mariage Freres. It's a shop that looks good and smells even better. It's a tea lover's delight.
Jan 22nd, 2005, 05:36 AM
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jmw,
The word for samples is "échantillons"
As far as the buses, the best advice I can give you is to get a map from the metro ticket booth.
The bus stops have signs that show the numbers of the bus routes that stop there, and a map showing where the route goes.
A lot of them even have an LED display that shows how many minutes it will be until the next bus arrives.
Before your trip, you can go to the RATP website and look at the map there that shows the streets, and write down some of the ones that you are likely to use a lot.
The word for samples is "échantillons"
As far as the buses, the best advice I can give you is to get a map from the metro ticket booth.
The bus stops have signs that show the numbers of the bus routes that stop there, and a map showing where the route goes.
A lot of them even have an LED display that shows how many minutes it will be until the next bus arrives.
Before your trip, you can go to the RATP website and look at the map there that shows the streets, and write down some of the ones that you are likely to use a lot.
Jan 22nd, 2005, 05:46 AM
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Jmw,
Thanks!
My camera is nothing fancy-- an Olympus stylus zoom. But it's very compact so it fits in my purse without taking up too much room, and it's weatherproof.
To see the bus map, go to:
http://www.ratp.info/orienter/tous_plans_pdf.php
and click on Bus Paris (avec rues) You can zoom WAY in on the map I haven't tried printing it out yet, but that would be ideal.
Thanks!
My camera is nothing fancy-- an Olympus stylus zoom. But it's very compact so it fits in my purse without taking up too much room, and it's weatherproof.
To see the bus map, go to:
http://www.ratp.info/orienter/tous_plans_pdf.php
and click on Bus Paris (avec rues) You can zoom WAY in on the map I haven't tried printing it out yet, but that would be ideal.
Jan 22nd, 2005, 05:48 AM
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On Tuesday evening we had tickets to the ballet at the incomparably grand Opera Garnier. It looked magnificent with all its lights blazing away! We had tickets on the first floor, box seats. Up the "see-and-be-seen" staircase (think Eliza Doolittle at the ball in My Fair Lady) to our box. Each box has a numbered door which the usher unlocks for you and allows you in. No interlopers here! There were six plush red velvet seats that afforded us a fine view of the ballet, which we unfortunately did not care for. No matter. The "show" at intermission and the chance to wander around the Opera were worth the price of admission in and of itself.
I wish you could have all been there! The people-watching was superb. We saw fashion of the kind you see in glossy magazines, the kind you can only dream about owning and wearing. It was wonderful. It was difficult to maintain lady-like decorum and discretion because our natural inclination would have been to simply let our jaws drop. And drop. Our favorites? How about a pair of high heeled pink and black pumps (very high) with a sole that was dyed to match the upper, because it showed when its wearer moved her ankle, no matter how imperceptively? Or the delicate Japanese woman who wore a kimono-inspired overjacket that was as finely woven as gossamer? And the jewelry! Oh, oh, ooooh. Intermission was the <i>best</i> show.
I wish you could have all been there! The people-watching was superb. We saw fashion of the kind you see in glossy magazines, the kind you can only dream about owning and wearing. It was wonderful. It was difficult to maintain lady-like decorum and discretion because our natural inclination would have been to simply let our jaws drop. And drop. Our favorites? How about a pair of high heeled pink and black pumps (very high) with a sole that was dyed to match the upper, because it showed when its wearer moved her ankle, no matter how imperceptively? Or the delicate Japanese woman who wore a kimono-inspired overjacket that was as finely woven as gossamer? And the jewelry! Oh, oh, ooooh. Intermission was the <i>best</i> show.
Jan 22nd, 2005, 05:53 AM
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I am enjoying this trip report immensley. I am finding every detail fascinating and it's great to read about the food, the shopping and all the other details that make this report different from others I have read. Thank you for sharing with us. The photos are great too!
Ann
Ann
Jan 22nd, 2005, 06:01 AM
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Nikki,
I couldn't remember what I paid at Rosemarie Schulz, so I looked at my American express bill online-- two rose sachets, one large, one small were $38.00.
I didn't think their prices were outrageous at all for how beautiful the things were. The biggest problem was that a lot of the things would be hard to transport home without smashing them.
I couldn't remember what I paid at Rosemarie Schulz, so I looked at my American express bill online-- two rose sachets, one large, one small were $38.00.
I didn't think their prices were outrageous at all for how beautiful the things were. The biggest problem was that a lot of the things would be hard to transport home without smashing them.
Jan 22nd, 2005, 06:09 AM
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so glad you all discovered the bus system! we used it exclusively (in addition to walking) during our first trip to paris last april. we only went down into the metro stations to buy carnets!
on the ratp.fr site, you can also use the "route finder" for either bus or metro. it will tell you exactly how to get from place to place. you can also print out route maps, which i find very helpful.
loving your report!
on the ratp.fr site, you can also use the "route finder" for either bus or metro. it will tell you exactly how to get from place to place. you can also print out route maps, which i find very helpful.
loving your report!
Jan 22nd, 2005, 06:28 AM
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Ladies, this is a great report and I have really enjoyed all of it and the photos!! Sorry you missed the part of the 13th that is indeed charming. You were looking for the Butte aux Cailles and you do have to hunt for it with a good map. L'Avant Gout is another great restaurant in that arrondissment if you are ever back that way.
Peg
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Jan 22nd, 2005, 06:36 AM
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Oh I am glad that you made it over to Rosemarie Schulz! That is definitely on my list, my rose potpourri is still fragrant but I want more!
The pointy toed shoes might still be prevelant ON feet but all I am seeing in the spring/fall shows is round with slight platforms..you most likely did the right thing saying no to those shoes.
You two do realize don't you, that I read pertinent parts of this to the Yankee ?
The pointy toed shoes might still be prevelant ON feet but all I am seeing in the spring/fall shows is round with slight platforms..you most likely did the right thing saying no to those shoes.
You two do realize don't you, that I read pertinent parts of this to the Yankee ?
Jan 22nd, 2005, 06:45 AM
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Such a good trip report, I never have the energy to make notes or report in such detail. This is a lot of very good information for others.
As for the 13th, there are parts that are quite charming, but you have to have a plan and know where to go because I think the tendency for someone without knowing where to go might be to just get out at place d'Italie which is not charming at all, as you found. Butte aux Cailles is one spot, although I actually think the nicest part of the quartier is broadly the area south of Tolbiac and west of ave d'Italie. There are some very charming and pretty streets and beautiful houses around place Rungis to place Abbe Henocque, that general area.
As for the 13th, there are parts that are quite charming, but you have to have a plan and know where to go because I think the tendency for someone without knowing where to go might be to just get out at place d'Italie which is not charming at all, as you found. Butte aux Cailles is one spot, although I actually think the nicest part of the quartier is broadly the area south of Tolbiac and west of ave d'Italie. There are some very charming and pretty streets and beautiful houses around place Rungis to place Abbe Henocque, that general area.
Jan 22nd, 2005, 06:45 AM
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I am so pleased that you're all enjoying this! It makes the computer-related ache in my shoulders (so many hours hunched over a keyboard...owww) dissipate a bit. Thanks!
<b>Wednesday!</b> A monumentous day for two ladies who came to Paris hoping to do a little more than merely lick the windows. First day of the sales! There was such an air of excitement in Paris on the days leading up to the sales. There are only two sale dates in Paris, you see. They don't have weekend sales, holiday sales, sales-for-any-reason sales such as we do. Sales are in January and July and the prices instantly drop 30 - 50%. Worried about the falling dollar? Make up the difference with a newer, better price!
There were a few stores that actually closed in preparation for the big event, and many had "extraordinary" hours posted to accomodate the sales. Some stores covered up their entire window displays with brown craft paper so you couldn't see inside (talk about heightening anticipation, to know that something was going on behind the scenes and you weren't party to it!). Marcy and I would walk along streets and see the sales clerks in the window displays arranging and rearranging until things were "just so." You know the kind of buzz that is in the air as Christmas approaches? The kind of imperceptable frisson of impending delight as the big day comes closer? That is the same kind of feeling that Paris had as the first day of sales approached. It was wonderful!
<b>Wednesday!</b> A monumentous day for two ladies who came to Paris hoping to do a little more than merely lick the windows. First day of the sales! There was such an air of excitement in Paris on the days leading up to the sales. There are only two sale dates in Paris, you see. They don't have weekend sales, holiday sales, sales-for-any-reason sales such as we do. Sales are in January and July and the prices instantly drop 30 - 50%. Worried about the falling dollar? Make up the difference with a newer, better price!
There were a few stores that actually closed in preparation for the big event, and many had "extraordinary" hours posted to accomodate the sales. Some stores covered up their entire window displays with brown craft paper so you couldn't see inside (talk about heightening anticipation, to know that something was going on behind the scenes and you weren't party to it!). Marcy and I would walk along streets and see the sales clerks in the window displays arranging and rearranging until things were "just so." You know the kind of buzz that is in the air as Christmas approaches? The kind of imperceptable frisson of impending delight as the big day comes closer? That is the same kind of feeling that Paris had as the first day of sales approached. It was wonderful!
