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Two Ladies on the Loose in Paris - dln and Marcy trip report!

Two Ladies on the Loose in Paris - dln and Marcy trip report!

Jan 21st, 2005, 02:32 PM
Join Date: Jan 2003
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Oh I loooove that fromagerie! We would pick up snacks there and the pastry shop nearby on our way back to the hotel on rue Jacob.
Scarlett is offline  
Jan 21st, 2005, 02:47 PM
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Din...what a great report. My mouth is watering at the mention of the cheese...and I love sweetbreads so any mention of them sets my heart a flutter!

Looks like I will take my Ambien too but I hear there is a new drug out called Lunesta ...supposed to be good with no foggy next day.

loisco is offline  
Jan 21st, 2005, 02:50 PM
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peeky, you'll have to wait for Marcy to pop in to get the food reports in greater detail. Marcy has a very sophisticated palate when it comes to dining, and I'm afraid that I'm a bit of a peasant in that department. If it fills me up and doesn't cost the moon, I'm happy. She's much better about describing dining than me!
Jan 21st, 2005, 03:28 PM
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I was looking forward to this report, and it does not disappoint! I would have had to start the shopping on the way to Sacre Coeur, all those fabric shops just below it. The gorgeous dome in that church is also a favorite of mine. Waiting for more...
SusanP is offline  
Jan 21st, 2005, 03:29 PM
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Magnifique! You guys are making me so excited about Paris!
ilovetulips is offline  
Jan 21st, 2005, 04:18 PM
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I love your report! It sounds like you had such a wonderful time; now I really can't wait for my "girls" trip to Paris with my sister in April
audreyleigh99 is offline  
Jan 21st, 2005, 04:32 PM
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I've posted some pictures on Ofoto, if you'd like to see them.

marcy_ is offline  
Jan 21st, 2005, 04:35 PM
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Oh, those pictures are magnificient!
SeaUrchin is offline  
Jan 21st, 2005, 04:38 PM
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Oui, Oui, Marcy, merci beaucoup.
cigalechanta is online now  
Jan 21st, 2005, 04:52 PM
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Ladies, great report. I'd like to hear more about the shopping. Love buying things for family and friends.
Treesa is online now  
Jan 21st, 2005, 05:09 PM
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Those pictures are great! So colorful and rich!
wren is offline  
Jan 21st, 2005, 05:17 PM
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dln & Marcy-
What wonderful pictures and excellent trip report! I'm leaving the husband behind and going with my friend so it'll be another Two Ladies on the Loose in Paris! Only this time it'll be in May...Your report is very helpful and the photos of the desserts are already making me salivate : )
obsessedwithfrance is offline  
Jan 21st, 2005, 05:23 PM
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Marcy and I walked around the back of Sacre Coeur admiring streets steep enough to have their own staircase sidewalks (just like you've seen in that famous poster of Rue Foyatier, with the lampposts). It had already begun to drizzle so we ducked into a little neighborhood cafe on Rue Caulaincourt near Rue Saules. This area reminded me so much of Boston's Back Bay where I once lived. Nice tree-lined streets. We saw a hilarious Santa blow-up doll that Marcy took a photo of. Santa was dangling off a balcony looking like he was ready to fall at any minute! In our week in Paris we saw quite a few of these Santas and it never failed to make us laugh. Santa for the city folk.

We ordered a demi-pichet of red wine at the cafe. It came chilled! We wondered if it was because we were tourists and they assumed we'd prefer it that way, but why would they have kept a bottle of red chilled just for that purpose? We drank it anyway, though it would have tasted better served the proper way, at room temperature.

We ate dinner later that night in our neighborhood of St. Germaine des Pres. Montmartre is excellent for sightseeing, not so much so for restaurants, and we headed back to familiar territory. Marcy has the particulars of where we ate that night.

I had snails as my appetizer! First time ever. This was a huge hurdle for me to cross. I will eat nearly anything. I've eaten frog legs in Hong Kong only minutes after seeing the chef chop off their legs with his cleaver. I've eaten chickens that I've raised from cute little chickies. But snails!!!! I'm a master gardener, you see, and my job is to squish them when they start gnawing on my hostas. My job is NOT to eat them smothered with butter and basil. But somehow that is exactly what I did, thanks to Marcy's gentle encouragement. And you know what? They were delicious! Much better than the non-descript dinner which followed. How travel can broaden one's palate.
Jan 21st, 2005, 05:33 PM
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Thanks for the report and photos Marcy and dln.

Welcome back to wonderful Indiana weather!
indytravel is offline  
Jan 21st, 2005, 05:56 PM
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On Monday morning Marcy and I broke in our Carte Orange passes. What a godsend they proved to be! The convenience of not having to fish around for change or wait in lines to buy tickets was just the thing for us. Marcy was bound and determined to conquer the busses of Paris, and conquer we did. In fact, I don't think I will ever go back to using the Metro as heavily as I have in the past. Not when there's a view of Paris around every street corner. I asked for a route map at one of the Metro stations and with that in hand, we travelled from one corner of Paris to the other.

We took the #96 bus to the Marais, crossing over the Pont au Change and through the wide and pretty plaza with the obelisque (Metro Chatelet). I had an enormous shopping list which began on Rue de Francs Bourgeois. That street is a shopper's delight! We pressed our noses to the glass of many jewelry, shoe, handbag, fine craft and gift shops (oh dear, did I forget any?) I needn't say that we also wandered into our fair share, too. The highlights are as follows, including some shops from other streets we visited:

Pelotte, 4 Rue des Francs Bourgeois. Sells yarn, most notably the Anny Blatt label. A dear friend of mine knits fantastic scarves for me (which made up the bulk of my travel accessories for this trip, incidentally) and I was anxious to get her some fine yarns for more. I was not disappointed!

Monic, 5 Rue des F. B.. Sells costume jewelry and accessories, fun stuff that is well-priced and made.

Lewistone, 33, Rue des Archives. Sells its own designs of Art Deco-inspired jewelry. I spent half an hour here before succumbing to a gorgeous pair of dangly earrings with garnets and jade. I almost cried when I saw these earrings! Too pretty for words. (My dear sweet husband almost cried when he saw the bill but that's another story.)

Tout a Loisirs (les materiaux de plaisir), between #50 and 52 Rue des Archives. Sounds exciting when you translate it, doesn't it, until I tell you that the "things of pleasure" they're talking about are beads. Oh, but what beads and what a fanastic store! It was like walking into a cross between Ali Baba's treasure cave and an old-fashioned emporium, complete with wooden bins and entrancing displays of jewelry already made up.

Matiere Premiere, 12 Rue de Sevigne. Another bead shop with particularly nice findings for jewelry makers such as myself.

Keslord, 13 Rue Sevigne. Near the corner of Rue de Jarent, this shop sells glorious handbags that pleased both Marcy and me, even though we have wildly differing tastes in bags (she likes soft and slouchy and I prefer structured bags).

These, mind you, are only the highlights! We saw many more shops and planned our mode of attack for Wednesday, the beginning of the sales, when all the prices officially dropped.

Jan 21st, 2005, 06:04 PM
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Hi dln, I love all kinds of foods too but the time we had to go to a business dinner out in the country in Napa Valley (or was it Sonoma Valley?) anyway the host had chosen a darling French restaurants. And had ordered snails for all of us.

I thought I was going to die I was so upset (yes, snails are to get out of the garden). But felt like I had to be polite and at least eat one. Oh my gosh, I loved them!!! Have never had them since and even though I loved them mentally they make me think, ugh. But would eat them again if they were as good as the first time.

Someone told me the snails one eats are specially bred and fed? Is that true?
I almost think I was told that the snails eat sawdust. But that couldn' be right. Anyway, a good French experience for you
LoveItaly is offline  
Jan 21st, 2005, 06:15 PM
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Iloveitaly, yes they are and most no longer come from France even, those served in Burgundy(Escargot capital)
The restaurant by that name in Paris was very good when I was there long ago
those that do raise them in France

cigalechanta is online now  
Jan 21st, 2005, 06:19 PM
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What you have to do first with snails is purify them, because -- well, for all you know, they might have just eaten some snail bait. They don't put arsenic in snail bait anymore, but a lot of snail-bait products do contain insecticide, and carbaryl is not something you want to eat.

Typically, the purification ritual lasts for two weeks. You purge snails by feeding them greens or corn meal -- something like that. I just feed them corn meal, and I give them water and I change their food almost daily until I know that their systems are clean. Sorry I tried to post something else somehow came up.and the other post

cigalechanta is online now  
Jan 21st, 2005, 06:20 PM
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This trip report is so wonderful, and though I just got back myself I'm so frustrated by the old favorites that I didn't get to on this trip, St Etienne being one of them.

Wish we'd gone to Bouillon Racine for dinner--it had been on my list, but we opted for another place. And when you were at the Carrefour Odeon you were right in "my" neighborhood--we never stopped in at Comptoir de Relais, but it sounds great for a pit stop. Next time I will look for the mural of the bird-feeding lady.

I agree, there's something unique about a 'girls' trip', as long as the 'girls' get along well.

I don't sleep on planes either, at least never going to Europe. So on our first day we conked out about 4pm for 2-3 hours, had a later dinner, still went to bed about midnight, used a sleep aid, and got a restful night's sleep. I used to be opposed to a nap on the first day, but we just couldn't function at the end of the afternoon.

Thanks so much for this report. Any other dinners to report on?
elaine is offline  
Jan 21st, 2005, 06:27 PM
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LoveItaly: my sister-in-law's father was french and he prepared escargot often and it was snails out of his garden. I don't know the whole process because as much as I love them, I never want to see those little suckers living..oh yuk!!! I do know that he put them in cornmeal and by eating and ...well, expelling the cornmeal, it cleaned out their tiny systems. My guess would be, that the snails aren't anything special but are allowed to propogate, and they are fed etc, and then "harvested". I've decided that this is just entirely too much information!!!! LOL Bon appitite!!!!
crefloors is offline  

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