caralin

My husband and I are going to Tuscany in the third week of November. We're very excited, but we're a bit spoilt for choice as to where to stay (a good problem, I know!). We have both the Lonely Planet and Eyewitness guidebooks for the region, but between those and obsessively Google-searching, I've started to get a bit overwhelmed with all the options. I would be thrilled if someone here could help us narrow it down!

Here's our details on what we're looking for:
- either in the Chianti region or somewhere near Val d'Orcia (Montalcino, Montepulciano, etc).
- ideally, on the outskirts or close to a town. I'd love to have the country experience with views of rolling hills and cypress trees, but we'd also like to be able to walk to a local restaurant for dinner (we'll have a car for longer-range trips, but we both want to drink wine for dinner without driving home!). One restaurant in a little village is fine, we don't need tons of choice.
- an apartment in a villa or a room in a B&B would be fine, but we'd like to have an inside area for relaxing (November weather means we won't be lounging outside, so we'd like a place inside to sit around!). In a B&B, a common lounge area would be fine.
- a fireplace would be amazing. Not absolutely necessary, but amazing.
- our budget is up to about 150 Euros/night. We can be a bit flexible with that, but we're hoping with the low-season rates we can get something nice for that price.

Thanks so much in advance for any suggestions you can give me!

Paulo59

Both Chianti and Val d'Orcia are great but imo Val D'orcia wins hands down. If you want to stay in a town so you can walk to dinner Motepulciano, Montalcino and Pienza fit the bill. Out of those I'd suggest Pienza. It's stunning. I won't start getting into details regarding hotels as you will find that many places are actually closed in November. So a good deal of the places people might recommend will be closed. I'd go to tripadvisor, submit each of these towns and your dates and see what pops up. One place that I believe is open but I have not stayed at is La Bandita Townhouse Hotel but I think it may be over your budget. 2nd choice for towns would be Montepulciano as I think it has better restaurants than Montalcino. But if you are willing to stay outside town there are many more choices just outside each of these towns and the prices may in fact be better if you can indeed find one open this time of year.
Good luck!

bobthenavigator

I agree---here is a start.
Nov. will be chilly and perhaps rainy---I would stay in town.

B. IN-TOWN LOCATIONS: For walking convenience to shops & ristorantes.

1. Palazzo del Capitano www.palazzodelcapitano.com 170 to 210E
Very nice small hotel in center of San Quirico—perfect location to explore.

2. Vecchia Oliviera www.vecchiaoliviera.com/ 150 to 200E
Nice 4 star hotel at the gate into lovely Montalcino---has pool.

3. Palazzina Cesari www.montalcinoitaly.com 80 to 110E
Lovely small B&B in heart of Montalcino—great value—2 night stay minimum.

4. Locanda di San Francesco www.locandasanfrancesco.it 180 to 200E
New boutique B&B in a lovely location in Montepulciano—great reviews !

5. Politian apartments http://www.politian.com/ Good value apts. with
minimum stay of 3 nights in Montepulciano---helpful host---85E

6. Palazzo Ravizza www.palazzoravizza.it 170 to 250E
Very nice & popular hotel in Siena with parking.

caralin

Thank you so much for both of your suggestions! I will look into the places you've suggested. I knew that November will be chilly, but I hadn't actually put two and two together that perhaps staying in town would be better because of that... If it's raining, a quick hop to dinner would be much more preferable than a 20-min stroll!

caralin

I've been looking further into your suggestions, and I'm still torn as to which town to stay in. My guidebook (Lonely Planet) didn't have great things to say about Pienza (said it was basically an overrun tourist town, but I'm hoping it would be better in November...), so I'm starting to think more strongly about Montepulciano or Montalcino.

In Montepulciano, I do like the look of the Politian Apartments. In Pienza (300m out of it, actually), the Agriturismo Podere San Gregorio looks really nice. Anyone heard anything about that one? I'm not sure of which place I'd go for in Montalcino.

Any other thoughts on the merits of the towns themselves?

macanimals

Podere San Gregorio is wonderful, a real agriturismo that is a short walk from 'downtown' Pienza where there are plenty of restaurant options. Good people and depending on the season, they will involve you in their everyday farm life. Pienza location also has the advantage of being between Montepulciano and Montalcino, which are both popular attractions. We've visited all these sites in November and December as well as other times and they definitely are off season in November--still good and much less pressure.

bobthenavigator

No comparison---MP is 5 times bigger and much more to see and do. It is also steeper---Pienza is flat.

mama_mia

We stayed in the Politian Apt in Montepulciano several years ago and loved it. We were able to park in a lot just below the apt and so got out easily for day trips. There are several very good restaurants in town to select from, so that you will not be bored returning to Montepulciano in the evening.

caralin

Okay - we have it narrowed down to the Politian Apartments in Montepulciano or Casa Moricciani in Castelmuzio.

I'm sure both would be amazing - it really just comes down to whether we want the town of 15,000 in Montepulciano or the village of 200 with Castelmuzio. Castelmuzio has two restaurants, so our basic needs would be served - we'd get almost the "country" experience, including unmarred quintessential Tuscan views out almost every window, while still having a restaurant to walk to. However, we would need to drive for everything else. In Montepulciano, we'd trade a little country atmosphere for the ability to walk to a variety of restaurants and attractions, so if my husband wanted to stay home and relax I could go out and explore, shop, etc.

...sigh. Decisions, decisions! What a lovely choice to have to make - I'm sure I can't miss either way. I'll let you know what I decide for sure. You've all be wonderfully helpful!

bilboburgler

Stay in Montepulciano, unless you dislike steep walking (the place is on the side of the mountain).

mamcalice

Whiile I am not familiar with the Politan Apartments, I would definitely choose Montepulciano as a base. While there are hilly parts, it is quite walkable and we like it the best of the towns in the area. Remember that the days are short in November so staying in town makes the most sense. You don't want to be "storlling" to dinner through the countryside in the dark and rain.

bobthenavigator

I have seen both and spent a week in the Politian.
Castelmuzio is too small and isolated, but the Casa is superb.
But, big cost difference.

macanimals

Look closely at the Politian apt website--you will see that the apartments have excellent views of the rolling hills of the countryside (with cypresses). We've stayed in Giacomo's aptmts on several occasions including November and December stays. He has recently added a couple of apartments below his original two but in the same building. Parking is easy and location is excellent although some have a couple of staircases to gain entry.

Castelmuzio is very small and you will have added driving to gain access to most of the many visited sites of the Val D'Orcia. I agree with others--Montepulciano is a better location.

FWIW--the tuscan countryside is but steps away in almost every direction--I recall viewing Lake Trasimeno on every one of my early 7 am walks along with other views of the surrounding area.

flygirl

Just don't forget to go to La Porta in Montichiello for lunch!

http://www.osterialaporta.it/en/monticchiello

Very near Pienza...

bobthenavigator

Here are shots of MP and some views from Politian.
And, lunch at La Porta---all in 2011.

http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/show...at=4553&page=3

SkipHudgins

Try La Porta not just for lunch but to stay. They have rooms I believe on their website.

SkipHudgins

If you have a car also try Avignonesi vineyard near Montepulciano for a tour and lunch. One of the most enjoyable lunches we have ever had. Ate there about 2 weeks ago. Way beyond expectation.

PS--I still don't get the fans for Montepulciano. After 15 years of visiting this area including most of this month, we find Montalcino to be nicer, easier to see, better restaurants, more fun, less tour groups, less tacky tourist shops, less hilly, etc. But as I have posted elsewhere, can't go wrong with either. Have fun and enjoy your trip.

yipper

I agree with Skiphudgins. I like montalcino better than Montepulciano. It is smaller, but has a lot of good restaurants. It is easier to walk around. I Also felt there are too many tacky shops in Montepulciano and the main piazza was not charming as other Tuscans towns. the views from both towns are wonderful. I am sure you have a fabulous time.

Maltesec

If you fancy to stay in a romantic spot I suggest you should stay in ... a castle!
http://www.spaltenna.it is in Gaiole in Chianti and has one of the most renowned restaurants in Chianti.
Quiet countryside around and Siena and Florence very easy to reach for day trips.

caralin

We'll definitely get to La Porta - I've heard that one recommended quite a few times, so it will be on our "must do" list!

I think you're right about Castelmuzio, but now I'm tempted by Montalcino! I sent an email to the owners of La Porta about their apartments, but I don't see any reviews about their accommodations. Perhaps they're too new, but I'm always nervous booking places that aren't well reviewed, because I've been burned in the past!

Any other quick recommendations for Montalcino places? Otherwise, I think I'm going to just bite the bullet and book Politian before someone else does!

Thanks again a thousand times to all of your for your help. Bobthenavigator, a special shout-out for you - you've contributed so much great insight (and lovely photos - I can't wait for the trip!)!