Tuscany travel and restaurant questions
 

My wife and I are planning a trip to Tuscany next June (via Switzerland) and we could use some input on what would be the best travel plans. I am also interested in hearing if there are some great restaurant suggestions in/around some of the spots we will be staying.

We are flying from Zurich into Florence and catching a train to arrive in Montepulciano. Should we plan on taking the Florence train into Chiusi and take a bus to Montepulciano or is there an even better way to get to Montepulciano from Florence? We have plans to pick up a rental car in Montepulciano and stay in Montepulciano for 3 nights. Then we plan to drive to Orvieto and stay there for 3 nites. We plan to drop off the rental car in Orvieto and take a train to Florence. Question--would it be worth the time to save some money by driving back up to Montepulciano to drop of the car at the same location and take a train back to Florence? We plan on staying in Florence for 2 nights and flying back to Zurich to return home the next day.
Aside from train/rental car questions, are there any suggestions on great restaurants in Montepulciano, Orvieto and Florence? We are staying at the Montebello Splendid in Florence, if that helps at all. Thanks in advance for your kind input and suggestions.

JD

I'm not aware of any rental car agencies in Montepulciano (closest would be Chiusi). I would pick up a car in Florence at the airport (don't drive into Florence as it's restricted to traffic unless you have a permit) and return it at Florence airport.

One of my favorite restaurants in Montepulciano was Osteria Acquacheta. The steaks they serve are amazing and the proprietor is both a character and a bit eccentric. The place is small and we just happened to luck out to get seating without a reservation for lunch one day.

The other place was Cane e Gatto. A small place run by a lovely young couple (she cooks, he serves!!). Excellent food, wonderful service.

Thanks kybourbon for the suggestion. There is an AVIS car rental in Orvieto, however, I may take your suggestion to provide a little more flexibility in our travel back and forth to Florence.

Flame-thanks for the restaurant suggestions, we will definitely consider your choices.

I welcome any input/suggestions about our planned itinerary:

1) While staying in Montepulciano I was considering the following:
Day 1-Tour around Montepulciano (e.g. Piazza Grande, etc.)
Day 2-Drive to Siena (should we try to incorporate Chianti wine region on same day?)
Day 3-Montalcino, Pienza

2) While staying in Orvieto I was considering the following:
Day 1-Lunch/Winery tour at Decugnano Dei Barbi
Day 2-Orvieto Caves, Duomo
Day 3-?? TBD--any suggestions

3) While staying in Florence, I was considering the following:
Day 1-Piazza Della Signoria, Duomo, Boboli Garden, etc.
Day 2-considering day trip to Pisa or Lucca?-suggestions??
*should we consider some other areas?-we would welcome any suggestions on fabulous winery tours and/or quaint towns with fantastic views and good restaurants

Rent at Florence airport and drive to Montepulciano for sure. Easy drive and will save you a lot of time and inconvenience. Then return car there and take train/cab back into the city.

Aquachetta as suggested is a great place to eat. Steaks and the owner are the draw, but the pastas are actually good as well. The other restaurant mentioned was intended to be Gambe di Gatto. Haven't been but heard good things. Also look for Del Falco in Pienza and don't miss Osteria La Porta in Montichiello (about 15 mins from both Montepulciano and Pienza). There are tons of great places to eat in this area. You will receive many other suggestions.

I would not "do" Chianti along with Siena, it's just too much for one day in my opinion. It's a region, with many places/towns to visit just like the area around Montepulciano. Devote the day to one or the other and enjoy it fully. Siena deserves it's own day, and you can spend days exploring the Chianti region. If forced to choose I would say explore a bit of Chianti as you have the car.

I also would not day trip to Pisa/Lucca on your second day in Florence. Stay there and enjoy Florence. You won't tire of that city after two days.

We just spent a week in Montepulciano in May. Click on my name above to find my trip report. Meanwhile, here are the pics:
http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/show...y.php?cat=4553

>>>>Thanks kybourbon for the suggestion. There is an AVIS car rental in Orvieto, however, I may take your suggestion to provide a little more flexibility in our travel back and forth to Florence. <<<

Yes, but there isn't one in Montepulciano so you wouldn't be able to pick up there. There is also Hertz in Orvieto.

Siena would be a good detour from Florence after you pick up your car on your way to Montepulciano. Drive down the Chianti Road (the 222) as you leave Florence. Stop for the afternoon in Siena and then on to Montepulciano.

Orvieto - If you plan to turn your car in there, change day 2 to day 3 and you could turn the car in earlier as you wouldn't need it to tour the Duomo/underground. On day 2 you could visit nearby Civita di Bagnoregio or other towns around Lago Bolsena.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Civita_di_Bagnoregio

An excellent thread on 'favorite foods in Tuscany' >>>>
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...in-tuscany.cfm

Seasonal & regional are key elements to eating well in Italy. In discussion of favorite things to eat (Tuscany), take note of feedback from a poster "Zeppole" .... made me smile. I'm an American and have visited friends in Italy on several trips. (she's also American & hubby is Italian) ..... it drives Guiseppe (hubby) CRAZY when my friend and I will eat the "wrong" things (i.e. a dessert that's too heavy!). Italians are much more mindful of a balanced meal, and eating fresh foods during right time of year. And yes, that's why dining in a good trattoria can be a sublime experience of your trip.

Day three in Orvieto, drive to Lago di Bolsena and Civita di Bagnoregio. He lake is in an old volcanic crater and is very pretty, with little towns scattered around. civita is an old city on a tuff hill that is falling down, and the town keeps getting smaller and smaller. Very picturesque, there's a restaurant right at the end of the road in Civita that is very nice for lunch, with a good view of the old town which is across a pedestrian bridge.

In Orvieto there is a tiny place called Trattoria del Orso that is very good. The owners are very nice guys.

Don't miss the chapel in the Duomo with the frescoes by Sigmorelli!! Before you go, look in a tourist shop for a book about it that has beautiful photos of the frescoes and gives you some good guidance on what to look for. I can't remember the name of the book, but it is chock full of gorgeous photos.

We met the man who translated it into English, living in Torre Alfina, about a 45 minute drive from Orvieto. He's a retired doctor from Houston. Torre Alfina is a tiny town with two main streets and a huge castle dominating at the top of the hill. There's a hotel (albergo del castello if I remember correctly) near then post office that serves absolutely divine local cuisine, but dinner only.

ttt

Thanks for the great feedback! I definitely will rent a car in Florence and drive to Montepulciano. I am convinced to spend a little more time in the Chianti Region, so now the question is which towns within Chianti are top-rated? If you had 2 days to tour Chianti-what towns would you prioritize and are there any tours or sites you recommend. If anyone has gone on a guided tour through Chianti, I would be interested in hearing if this is worth it. It looks pricey for what seems to be a trip anyone could put together--any experience or thoughts here?

BobTheNavigator--awesome photos. I really liked the photos in Lavinci and Monterosso. I like the quaint towns with cool wine shops and beautiful views. I am not sure if my itinerary will allow me to make it to either of these locations on this trip.

uflecku - thank you for the correction of the restaurant name. Of course!!! The one I mistakenly wrote is a very famous place in Siena if I remember correctly? If you ever are back in Montepulciano do try Gambe di Gatto.

Anothe vote for the Osteria Aquechetta!

When we returned our car to Hertz in Orvieto, there was a long line - the agent had apparently decided to go get coffee and was gone for at least 1/2 hour. No one knew where to park and it was a mess. Just allow extra time!

JD2011, be mindful of where in Tuscany you are vs. where you want to explore. Montepulciano is further south, in an area called the Val d'Orcia. It is perhaps the most beautiful part of Tuscany (very subjective, I know) and worthy of several days unto itself. The Chianti region is further north. Also quite beautiful, a bit greener and more hilly. I'e spent seperate vacations in both. If you are attracted to the Chianti region, and think you want to spend 2 of your 3 days in Tuscany exploring that area, I would suggest moving your accomodations further north and perhaps day tripping to Montepulciano/Pienza area.

Bottom line - don't stay in one place if you really want to be in another. I'm certain you'll love the entire area, no matter what parts you visit.

Uflecku-great point and well taken. I will consider these distances and the beauty each region has to offer. Perhaps I will concentrate less time touring the Chianti region and more time touring the Val d'Orcia region. I only wish I had more time--don't we all? :)