Tuscany in the Fall: suggestions?
 

Having just returned from 2 lovely weeks in Italy and Paris, we are left with a voucher for a future flight on Northwest Airlines. Having discovered they fly to Bologna, we're already planning a short trip back to Florence (which got shortchanged this trip due to bitterly cold weather). We will either be travelling the last week of September or later in October.

The very preliminary itinerary is:

To Bologna, train will get us to Florence around 7pm.
3 nights in Florence - Wed, Thurs, Fri
Residenza Il Villino


Saturday afternoon: rent car, drive to Siena
4 nights in Siena - Sat, Sun, Mon, Tues
Palazzo Ravizza
Daytrips to see the Val d'Orcia area, Volterra & San Gimignano.

Wed: drive to Bologna - turn in car
1 night in Bologna before 6am (ugh!) flight home.

We are two ladies and my friend likes to shop (more than I do). That's why I thought of Siena, though many of the shops will likely be closed 2 of the 4 days we're there. We also don't like to drive after dinner. This hotel is within the city walls with parking provided nearby.

Given those parameters, I would appreciate input on our plans. It is far from set in concrete at this point. Thanks, all!

PS: Right now, Nova has the best rental car rates.

Does someone know where their Florence "city" pick up office is?

Hmmm. If I had a car I would not stay in a town, esp. a non-car-friendly town like Siena....(though, as you say, parking always IS possible)

Would you consider a location outside Siena, as long as your friend had access to some shopping opportunities in Siena?

I've considered Montepulciano, Montalcino and Pienza.

What did you have in mind?

(Or, to answer your question, "yes")

JeanneB, I stayed in Siena (at Palazzo Ravizza) for 2 nights and Pienza for 3 last Sept. While I liked Siena, I loved Pienza! It's very quiet at night, no nightlife, but has plenty of shopping (pottery, Pecorino cheese, olive wood utensils & bowls, herb mixtures for cooking, home dec tapestry stuff). Plenty of good restaurants.

Gorgeous views of the Tuscan countryside from the walk along the ancient wall on the south side of town. Much more to see in Pienza than most people think (no way to see it all in the 2 hours many allow for the town).

I stayed at Albergo Rutiliano, a couple of blocks outside the town wall. Very reasonable, I think a double is 100E including breakfast, nice large airy room, their own parking and a lovely pool. I was there the last week in Sept, and it was hot enough to swim, although I hadn't brought a bathing suit.
If you want even more details, here is my trip report:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34687434

Albergo Rutiliano sure sounds like it fits our criteria. Your trip report was a lot of fun!

I've spend some time revisiting old notes about southern Tuscany for a trip that fell through. Some of our notes then were:
--No driving thru narrow "city" streets to return at night. Parking close by. Perhaps walk into town...or an easy drive is OK.
--Twin beds seem rare...maybe sofa bed? We really hadn't thought about "self catering". With only a few days, we prefer a breakfast room. But that's not a deal-killer. We CAN make coffee. LOL!
--Not too "rural", reasonable access to highways
--120 to 150 euros/night

The Rutiliano was on my list. I'm seriously considering it after reading all your notes about the restaurants nearby in Pienza.

Question: We, too, want to go to Cano e Gato. What would you think of driving back to Pienza after dinner there? (To be honest, that was a big factor in choosing Siena.)

As you are probably aware, Palazzo Ravizza does provide parking within the town walls at a hillside lot adjoining the hotel's gardens. We appreciated being able to walk to nearby restaurants after a day touring the area by car.

Yes, the available parking was the major reason I first noted P. Ravizza. And it's still a good option.

But I've been reading that the grape harvest will be happening at that time and I think maybe we'd rather be out in the "country".

We could do a day trip to Siena, have dinner at Cano e Gato. But then comes the question of driving back to the Pienza or Montepulciano areas after such a dinner? I don't know what the road is like...would that be a bad drive?

JeanneB,
E-mail me and I will send you a list of day trips in southern Tuscany.

What is Nova? Do you have a link?

For a 5 or 6 day trip to Florence in May, does renting a car for day trips make sense? I can see going to Siena and one or two other close by cities.

Or trains should be good?

I realize parking is a problem. But in the past, when I go to a smaller city by train, then you have to get around and public transport in smaller towns aren't the same as in the big cities.

I think for Siena and San Gimignano you would take the bus. The drop-off is more convenient than the train. Why bother with parking, etc. when the bus gets good reviews?

Nova:
http://www.rentacar-worldwide.com

Jeanne, I like your plan. Congrats on those free tickets--you will have fun.
Two comments: Autoeurope will match the Nova rates and I love their customer service for problem resolution. Also, if you want to stay further south in Tuscany look at www.palazzodelcapitano.com You would like that village.

Oh yes, in case you get hungry:

GOOD EATS IN TOSCANA !

Here are some of the best places to eat in Tuscany based on feedback from my clients. Reservations are mandatory for most:
* inexpensive ** moderate *** expensive
__________________________________________________ ____

FLORENCE: Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco ** Across the Arno & good.
La Giostra *** 12 Borgo Pinti Superb, but must reserve

SIENA: Osteria le Logge ** Just off the Campo—great for lunch
Cane e Gato *** A fixed menu feast—allow 4 hours.

LUCCA: Buca di San Antonio ** Near San Michele—very pleasant
Il Giglio ** Piazza del Giglio—a favorite with locals

COLLE VAL D’ ELSA: Arnolfo *** Excellent gourmet cuisine

SAN GIMIGNANO: Le Vecchie Mura * Good Tuscan fare—not fancy

MONTERIGGIONI: Il Pozzo ** Rustic taverna in ancient fortress

CASTELLINA : Al Gallopapa** Varied menu in heart of Chianti

MONTEFOLLINICO: La Chiusa *** Remote, but best in Tuscany.

MONTEPULCIANO: La Grotta ** Excellent—near San Biagio Church
Caffe Poliziano * Great for lunch

PIENZA: Latte du Luna ** Best choice in this lovely village

SAN QUIRICO: Trattoria al Vecchio Forno * Authentic Tuscan fare

MONTALCINO: Boccon di Vino** Excellent—fixed menu at lunch
Grappolo Blu * You will find the locals here

BAGNO VIGNONI: Osteria del Leone* Good choice in this spa hamlet
__________________________________________________ ____

Bob,
We're groovin' again...I just wrote that hotel this afternoon to see if they have twin-bed rooms! It's definitely on my list.

You and I corresponded last year when my friend and I were planning a similar trip. (We ended up doing the big 3 for our first time). Now that we're going to Tuscany, we're left with the same dilemma you and I talked about: driving after dinner. For example, if we stay in San Quirico, would we want to dine at Cano e Gato and drive back after dinner? It's really hard to judge.

Thanks for the restaurant list. Does San Quirico have a good selection of restaurants?

Also: anyone have any tips about Bologna?

Sorry, no tips on Bologna. But I had to chime in to suggest that you have dinner in Florence at Il Ritrovo. It's near the Duomo - a little hard to find, but worth the effort. It was one of the best meals I've ever had. If you search for it, Ira has specific information for it.

Also, do breakfast or lunch some time at the Mercato Centrale in Florence. The food is fresh, cheap, and really good.

JeanneB, I didn't drive in Tuscany, but I think driving back to Pienza after dinner in Seina would be a lot longer than I would want to do. As much as I wanted to eat at Cane e Gato, I wouldn't plan my stay around one restaurant (and I'm one whose trips are really enhanced by nice restaurants). I was planning to stay in Siena for a couple of nights anyway.

And as you read my trip report, you saw that Il Ritrovo in Florence was by far the worst meal I had in my 18 days in Italy. I know it gets lots of rave reviews here, so maybe I just got unlucky and hit it on a bad night, but I have to admit that I'd be hesitant to try it again.

Il Ritrivo was on my list. I think I took it off after your report...it's all your fault!!!
(Just kidding, of course).

I had read such rave reviews about our Florence hosts' restaurant suggestions that I let them pick each night. One night was a hit, the other so-so. And the cold put a damper on things. This time I'll be more diligent. Am thinking of staying at Tourist House Ghiberti, right behind the Duomo on a street we're familiar with. Don't know if Il Ritrivo will top the list, but I have several others.

And you're right about the Siena restaurant. I have this bad tendency of getting hung up on one thing and turning the itinerary into a pretzel trying to accommodate it. I'll let Cano e Gato go if we stay further south (which is winning out). It looks like we sure won't be hurting for places to eat!

After sleeping on it and digesting previously gathered info, a rough plan is starting to take shape.

Florence
Night 1: train from Bologna arrive 7pm.
Day 2: Florence
Day 3: take noon bus to S. Gim, perhaps stay for early dinner? Bus back to Florence.
Day 4: Morning in Florence, pick up car around noon for drive to south Tuscany.

Day 4: Arrive in S. Quirico or Pienza in afternoon.
Day 5: Montalcino, Pienza, Val d'Orcia area.
Day 6: Montepulciano and ???
Day 7: Volterra(?) and Siena

(Returning each night to restaurants near our base to avoid long drive after dinner).

Day 8: Drive to Bologna, turn in car by noon. One night in Bologna
Day 9: fly out at 6am.

How does that sound? I would really appreciate input, filling in details and gaps I'm sure I've missed.

Re Bologna, there are lots of good dining opportunities here but one of our best meals in 17 days in Italy last fall was dinner at Da Gianni at Via Clavature,18, about 3 blocks from Piazza Maggiore. You'd best make a reservation.