Turkey...where to shop?
 

Three couples are traveling to Turkey from Oct. 22nd - Nov. 8th. We will be traveling on a small tour so don't need info on sites, etc. as that is taken care of...but could use info on where to purchase rugs/jewerly other than bazaar (honest dealers), also good local restaurant in Istanbul? I'm guessing the weather is cool, but not cold that time of year. Wondering what to take as far as jackets and such. Thanks so much. D

Thanks,

This year it got cold rather too quickly. Although we are out of Istanbul since the 5th, we were told that central heating has been turned on in our building. Check the web for monthly averages and previous years' results.

If it is like one of the miserable school years of my youth, it can get quite cool and may be rainy. A windbreaker with hood and a detachable lining is always a good idea for traveling.

For jewelry try Arkaik (Birol and Semra owners) where my wife buys for herself and for presents, or Urart. Check their web sites. usually no bargaining or negotiation, but may be able to push for a 5-10% discount for cash payment.

For carpets, check the websites to decide on the design, area of weaving, color and price range. All carpet shops are usually the same, whether they are in and around the Grand Bazaar ot elsewhere. I hate their high quotes and the bargaining that follows. However if you are armed with knowledge of the design and the possible price, you can go and ask for a Yahyali or Yagci Bedir, or Nigde Taspinar and if you find one you like, ask their price and then give yours.

If you are interested in the Yahyali or the Nigde Taspinar design and are going to Cappadocia, buy it there. You can even go to Yahyali village and buy it there.

Make a reservation for Giritli. It will be an experience, and six persons might be just the right number for the meal they offer:

Giritli ($155) (http://giritlirestoran.com) was fabulous, and is a must for a relaxing evening. The more the merrier, four would be better than two, six even better. The meal includes all you can drink of raki and wine. We started with 18 mezes, including tuna sashimi, ceviche and the tenderest octopus we ever had. But most of the mezes are vegetarian, including seaweed salad and a nettles and feta (the Turks would not call it that) salad. The picture on the web site gives a good idea of what is offered. The main course is fish which was very good but not quite as good as what

Balikça Sabahattin (http://www.balikcisabahattin.com) prepared ($104). We came without reservations and were not seated on their terrace, even though it was not full, but upstairs, which is just as well because I suspect that the open air seating is reserved mainly for tours. We had a small table for two right next to another one, which would make a table for four if needed. After we were seated, we were asked if they minded if another customer sat next to us. We did not. He had been sitting elsewhere, but his table was needed for a larger group. It turns out that he was a self-made man, quit school at the age of 14, who was in the garment business. He was a regular at the restaurant and did not bother to order anything--the maitre d' would simply decide what he would eat that night. He ate there 4 nights a week, and three nights elsewhere. He clearly was a fixture, and ordered drinks for friends at other tables although he himself did not drink. My wife said to him, you must not be married to eat here so often, and he replied that he had been divorced for 5 years or so. His daughter went to the University of Chicago and then he visited her also in New Haven (I suspect that she was going to Yale). That night he had the fish stew which he insisted we try even though we already had dessert. It was excellent but quite spicy. Aside from mezes, we had grilled fish. My wife had a whole sea or striped bass that was perfectly prepared, and I had two blue fish similarly prepared. The preparations were very plain but superb.

Michael's recommendations, abve are excellent if you are staying at sultanahmet and for a fish dinner.

For Turkish-Asian fusion: Changa at Taksim or Sabanci museum-Emirgan

For traditional Turkish-Meat: Borsa, at the convention center near Taksim.

For upscale French-Turkish: Ulus 29, at Ulus

For upscale eclectic: Sunset. at Ulus

For excellent italian : Mia Mensa, on the Bosphorus sea side at Kurucesme.

For French: Mikla on roof of Marmara Pera hotel in tepebasi

For high tea : Pera Palas, the scene of novels and films, at Tepebasi.

For French at interesting location: Halat, at Rahmi Koc Museum on the shore of the Golden Horn.

My New favorite close to Taksim at Gumussuyu Topaz, excellent food, view and service, bill wasn't schoking too.

Cappadocia is good option for Rugs, Jewellery Istanbul for sure and keep the word in mind; best Rug is the one you like best! Once you have it be happy with it, if you ask many people you may be frostrated with to many opinions....

Happy travelling,

Murat

Sorry I have been out of town and just read these wonderful replys. Thank you so much for the wonderful information.
We are so looking forward to this trip.
Dorothy