Turkey/Greece trip report pt.1

Old Oct 26th, 2007, 09:13 AM
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Turkey/Greece trip report pt.1

Well thanks to this forum for helping me plan what was a fantastic 3 week honeymoon so I thought I'd do a trip report. Never done one before but if nothing
else thought it might be be useful for giving people ideas about hotels and restaurants. Just to put it in context we're a late 20s couple from London who wanted
to travel to quite a few places (it's rare we're allowed 3 weeks off work in one go..), visit some interesting towns, stay in really nice hotels and eat in some good local restaurants along the way (you're only on honeymoon once...) Hell for us would be sitting on a beach doing nothing for 3 weeks and eating in the same hotel restaurant every night. We do quite like rushing about a bit so I certainly don't think this trip would be everybody's idea of a great honeymoon! Our itinerary was the following :

Istanbul Old Town (2 nights)
Urgup (Cappadocia) (3 nights)
Istanbul New Town (2 nights)
Athens (1 night)
Syros (2 nights)
Naxos (4 nights)
Oia (Santorini) (3 nights)
Mykonos (3 nights)
Athens (1 night)

Days 1-2 (Istanbul)

We arrived in Istanbul after a slightly delayed flight and were exhausted but still in the blissful post-marriage mood where everything seems wonderful! In fact we were possibly still a little drunk... We were greeted (if a surly grunt can be called a greeting) by the hotel driver of the Ottoman Imperial who was carrying a card with our names on and judging by the hoardes of other people with cards standing at the arrivals gate I imagine that quite a few hotels provide the same service. Unfortunately it was raining (not quite the start you want to a honeymoon) but immediately there was a definite feeling that even if you may technically have been in Europe, you were definitely right on the edge. The feeling of being somewhere a little edgy was definitely accentuated by our cab ride which was to prove similar to all other rides we were driven on in Turkey. Despite the heavy Istanbul traffic our driver proceeded to hoot, dodge and speed his way towards the centre of the city, all the time avoiding accidents by what seemed like a hair's breadth. How there are so intact taxis in the city I will never know.

The Ottoman Imperial is perfectly situated in Sultanahmet in a little cobbled street right next to the Hagia Sophia. We booked the hotel partly based on the excellent reviews it had got on Tripadvisor and partly due to its location. To be honest however most of the hotels in Sultanahmet are pretty well located so in retrospect I don't think the location of the Ottoman Imperial was that important. The lobby area of the hotel was fine if a little underwhelming and the same could be said for our room, apparently a premier suite. Yes, it had an amazing view of Hagia Sophia but it would have been better appreciated had we had a balcony rather than just have been able to stare at the Hagia Sophia through the window. The room was decorated with nice fabrics but the beds were two singles pushed together and the 'sitting room' area was a little bizarre - a small, poky room with nothing in it but two armchairs. Why anybody would choose to sit in there is beyond me. The bathroom was clean but the bath was an odd little thing with a seat and only half a tub. It meant unfortunately for an incredibly uncomfortable experience. I would love to see somebody carrying a few extra stone try to sit down in it as I would imagine it would take quite a lot of effort not to get wedged! We also had a welcome basket of slightly dusty fruit and a mini-bottle of wine sitting on our table. On check-out a couple of days later we were unfortunately charged for the wine as the receptionist firmly stated that only the fruit was meant to be complimentary. It was only about 5 dollars so I couldn't even be bothered to complain but it did seem a little petty!

On our first night we wanted to go for dinner somewhere local so chose what is apparently the best fish restaurant in the old town - Balikci Sabahattin. It certainly didn't disappoint. The setting was lovely - a vine-filled courtyard and it was pleasantly busy with wealthy locals as well as tourists. As is quite often the way in Istanbul, starters came in the form of a big tray of appetizers which is presented to you and you choose what you want. Quite nice as it means you can have a look at what appeals. For mains we had a whole sea bass and a couple of red snappers, garnished with nothing but a sprinkling of salad and a slice of lemon. Once you've tasted the amazingly cooked fish however you realise that anything else would have spoiled it. The red snapper (cooked with a hint of smokiness) was in particular one of the best pieces of fish I have ever tasted. For desert we had some honey cake and were also given a mountain of free watermelon and other fruits. The service was charming and professional throughout and we left thoroughly stuffed after our first meal of the honeymoon. The bill came to about 190 TYL which was quite reasonable considering the quality. On the way back to our hotel we found what is obviously the main bar street of Sultanahmet, Akbiyik Caddesi, and found a backpacker-style bar where we sat back and enjoyed a cold beer. Having read the guidebooks I had imagined there would be no nightlife in the old town at all but this district is quite fun with some lively little bars mostly filled with young tourists who have piled out of the throng of youth hostels around the area. It makes for a buzzy atmosphere and means the bars have none of the pretensions of those in the smarter areas of town.

The next morning we had a very average buffet breakfast on the hotel terrace (which is pleasant enough but has no real views) and embarked on our sight-seeing extravaganza. I have to confess that despite being an ardent lover of history, churches and museums often leave me a little cold but my wife insisted that if we were in Istanbul sight-seeing we must do! First stop was Hagia Sophia - very impressive of course though the hoardes of tourists (of which I suppose I was one too so can't be too critical!) did take something away from the whole experience. My favourite site was actually the Blue Mosque of which I thought the guide books were a little dismissive as apparently the pillars are in the wrong places. I thought that despite all the tourists the place maintained an incredible sense of calm and frankly I could have spent hours lying on the carpet on my back staring up at the amazing ceiling. But unfortunately I wasn't allowed to as we had more sightseeing to do! Next was the Grand Bazaar which I was actually looking forward to. What a wonderful place. I loved the gleaming jewellery areas, the young lads with their burgeoning moustaches rushing past carrying trays of apple tea, the smells, the all-pervading sense of being in an area of organised chaos. We had a lovely sandwich lunch in one of the bazaar cafes and then it was off to haggle for a handbag for wifey. I was actually surprised by just how un-pushy the shopsellers were - the guidebooks suggest the pressure to buy is very strong but we didn't think it was too bad at all and were almost disappointed by how easily we were allowed to leave the shops without buying anything! We spent what seemed like hours trecking from handbag shop to handbag shop (actually it was probably only 20 minutes but felt longer..) and we got a big fake Calvin Klein leather one for about 40 pounds. Amazingly almost 2 months later it has yet to break. After the Grand Bazaar we headed to the Booksellers Bazaar which I thoroughly recommend. It's mostly in the open air and is the complete opposite of the Grand Bazaar - green, peaceful and perfect for a calming stroll. After our day of sightseeing we deserved a break so on our way home stopped at the Yesil Ev beer garden. I must say the hotel itself seemed a little old fashioned and musty but the beer garden was stunning - an oasis in the otherwise built-up Sultanahmet area. It really is the perfect place to wind down (though the drinks prices reflect the quality of the setting).

For dinner in the evening we decided to try the new town so caught a taxi up to Beyoglu. The Nevizade Sokuk passage to which we headed was crammed full of restaurants and people dining outside which meant it was certainly atmospheric but be warned that it is full of waiters trying to get you into their restaurant and being incredibly pushy. My wife felt a little uncomfortable but I persuaded her to try Boncuk, a meyhane which was meant to have an Armenian twist. The view from the terrace at the top of the restaurant was great and the place was jam-packed with people (mostly locals, which I was surprised to see). As it turned out the menu was the same as everywhere else with little obvious Armenian slant and the food, it has to be said, really wasn't that great. The food is not really the point though and it was clear that everybody in the restaurant was having a whale of a time. At some point some musicians appeared and started playing traditional music to the tables one by one. It wasn't necessarily our kind of thing but the meal was cheap and the place definitely felt authentic (which I suppose is a way of saying we were glad we'd been but wouldn't rush back). We had a drink on the busy main drag and then headed back to Sultanahmet where I wanted to try the bar on top of the Seven Hills hotel. A bit like the Yesil Ev, the Seven Hills hotel really didn't seem that special - at least judging by the slightly run-down reception area and the lift - but the terrace is incredible. It is a seriously romantic setting and has an amazing view over the whole city - an absolutely perfect place to have a nightcap and take in the hauntingly beautiful sites of Old Istanbul.

So, to sum up our first two days we had spent a wonderful two nights in Istanbul though the Ottoman Imperial was frankly a disappointment and I wouldn't recommend it. We were really looking forward to coming back to experience the contrast of the New town of Istanbul once we had returned from Cappadocia, our next destination.

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Old Oct 26th, 2007, 11:38 AM
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congratulations on your recent marriage and thanks for your trip report. i'm looking into greece and turkey as possible vacation destination for next year. sorry to hear about your disappointment with your hotel, ottoman imperial. how did you book this hotel, is it through an online hotel booking site? seens like you did most of the planning for this trip, as you cited the info you read from the guidebooks. i read a lot of guidebooks myself if i'm going some place where i've never been. part of the fun is comparing the descriptions you have read in those guidebooks and your own assesment of the sights, food, accomodations, etc.

i am surprised too about your shopping experience at the grand bazaar. i've read many times about how agressive the sales people could get but maybe they've changed? did your wife check out the bling blings at the jewelry stores. i heard there are some very nice, well crafted gold jewelry there.
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Old Oct 26th, 2007, 12:15 PM
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Great report, and congratulations on your wedding! We spent two weeks in Greece and Turkey this past May, so I am really enjoying reading about your experiences there.
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Old Oct 26th, 2007, 01:13 PM
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Congratulations on your marriage! I'm looking forward to the rest of your trip report and have greatly enjoyed the beginning of it
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Old Oct 26th, 2007, 01:15 PM
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Great report! Congratulations on your marriage!

I was just in Turkey 2 weeks ago and your report is bringing back wonderful memories. I really like your writing style!
Anxiously awaiting the next installment!
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Old Oct 26th, 2007, 01:26 PM
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This is great fun! Congratulations and looking forward to thre rest of the story.
Old Oct 30th, 2007, 05:05 AM
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Turkey/Greece Part 2 - Cappadocia

Thanks for the responses. flyme2themoon - yes spent countless hours obsessively researching destinations and hotels on Fodors, tripadvisor and in guide books - my wife thought I was insane! We did book almost all the hotels directly on their websites although we also used Mr and Mrs Smith for a couple too. I think maybe the bazaar has changed a little as I have been to more hasslesome places in London!

We flew from Istanbul airport to Kayseri on Turkish Airlines. Although I could have booked this flight myself the hotel I had booked in Urgup, The Sacred House, actually volunteered to book the tickets so all we had to do was turn up at the Turkish Airlines check-in and show our passports. All worked perfectly (I had been a bit concerned about not even having an email confirmation from Turkish Airlines but it wasn't needed) and the flight was quick (just over an hour) and very pleasant. At Kayseri we were greeted by a driver who I think worked on behalf of a few of the hotels in Urgup as he was waiting for about 10 people, all of whom were staying in different places. The drive was just under an hour and it was fascinating looking out at Kayseri, a rapidly expanding industrial town which gradually gave way to the rocky, lunaresque landscape that makes Cappadocia so famous. When we arrived in Urgup we definitely experienced the wow factor. Our minibus crawled round the tiny stone streets and we started dropping people off in some nice looking cave hotels. My wife and I were the only people on the coach by the time we started to drive down the hill and away from the other hotels which disappointed us a little. We headed instead towards the heart of the actual town, to an area which it has to be said was not quite as attractive as where the other hotels were located. We ground to a halt in a rubbly little road in which there didn't seem to be very much at all and were told to get out. Oh dear, I thought. Had all the homework been in vain? A little door opened next to the bus and we were ushered into The Sacred House. From the moment we stepped inside we knew we had made the right choice. The house is based around a little vine-covered courtyard and there was soothing chill-out music playing. There are 3 rooms on the ground floor clustered around the courtyard and 3 more on the upper level. The upper level also houses a kind of library as well as an incredible roof terrace complete with sun loungers and a little lovers swing. The views over the eery peaks of Cappadocia were stunning. And then for our room. Stunning doesn't begin to do it justice. The room used to be the chapel of the house and still has a small alter and a little alcove which contained a little statue of Jesus! The huge brass bed had an almost papal design to it and there were antique books on the shelf which must have dated back a couple of hundred years. For all the historial ambience the modern, luxurious touches weren't forgotten. There was no TV (but personally I think a TV would have ruined the atmosphere) but we had freshly made turkish delight waiting for us along with a decanter of cherry brandy. And the bathroom, complete with luxury girly products which my wife appreciated and a jacuzzi big enough for two, was simply outstanding. As soon as we put down our things we were brought tall glasses of freshly made lemonade by the helpful and smiley maid and then were left to explore.

The town of Urgup is rather odd. The older part of town (where most of the other hotels are located) is actually quite a steep walk up from the main part of town and therefore while more atmospheric is also a little more inconvenient. We had been expecting, I must admit, the town to be a little nicer - it is very small and is really based around a couple of main roads and a roundabout. The shops are fairly run-down and the buildings uninspiring. In a way I quite liked this - you had the feeling you were in a real working town in the middle of Asia rather than a tourist mecca - but by the same token it certainly couldn't be described as beautiful. What we had also (possibly naively) failed to appreciate was just how much more religious the locals would be in contrast to Istanbul. Where in Istanbul you would see women out everywhere, in Urgup we barely saw any women in the evenings and those you did see wore headscarfs and relatively traditional dress. The local children were hilarious. So incredibly friendly and they constantly stopped us to ask where we were from and to pose for photos. The adults were also friendly, but I have to say that my wife did feel uncomfortable as despite not dressing provocatively (on my suggestion!) she was stared at everywhere we went to the extent that cars would slow to a crawl as they passed us. It wasn't threatening, but at the same time it was a little unsettling.

Exploring the town was certainly fun however and good for the legs as many of the streets are very steep. We stopped at a lovely bar called 'Paradise Bar' which had great views of the mountains and where the manager sat down unprompted at our table to canvass our views on his prospective new boutique room in town. He was quite sweet but was almost uncomfortably intense and sat with us for well over half an hour. At one point he actually marched off with my wife's guidebook as he wanted to look something up! Unfortunately talking to him it became clear that what was planned was nothing more than a fairly bare ensuite room but it was fascinating how the 'boutique hotel' mentality has made such inroads here that everybody wants a bite of the cherry. Anyway I showed him the tripadvisor website which gave him some ideas and then we escaped while he was so absorbed in the internet that he couldn't stop us!

Before heading back to our hotel we decided that we wanted to try a hot-air balloon flight and so stopped at the Argeus Travel shop on the main road. They were very friendly at Argeus and booked us onto a 'long flight' the next morning. You can either go up for 45 minutes or an hour and a half and with the longer flight you get a champagne breakfast on landing. We paid 220 euros each which is a lot, but it was something we have both always wanted to do.

On our first night we ate in the Sacred House on a table set for two under the stars - very romantic! The food was traditional anatolian and consisted of dishes like lamb and date stew and aubergine filled with mincemeat. We then wandered into the centre of town after dinner to find a bar and it was disappointingly very deserted. There seemed to be very little bar/restaurant life and the two bars that my Lonely Planet mentioned were obviously no longer around. The only bar we did find was an dark, barn-like place called Sabah which was rather empty but for a few Turkish men sitting on tables in the corner. The atmosphere wasn't exactly buzzing so we had a quick drink and left as we had to be up early the next morning for our balloon ride.

We were getting picked up at the crack of dawn from outside our hotel and as we were shivering in the street we heard the beautiful, haunting morning call to prayer echo out of the minarets, float around the quiet streets of Urgup and away into the mountains. Our minibus scooted us off to Cappadoccia Balloons headquarters where cups of tea and coffee were waiting for us before we embarked on our flight. There were probably about 30 of us and we separated into three groups - one for each balloon. The balloon company is one of the most famous in Cappadoccia (apparently it's the one Michael Palin used in his New Europe series) and the staff certainly seemed very friendly and professional. As the morning sun began to go up in the sky our balloon was fired up and we started to rise. And rise. And rise. I must say that having always wanted to go on a hot air balloon ride it hadn't actually crossed my mind that it might be quite scary. I have been paragliding and was fine but when we were 1 kilometre up in the air with all the other balloons beneath us and the earth drifting away I looked over the edge of our wicker basket and began to feel very very sick! I had the horrific feeling that I was somehow going to throw myself out and had to stand as far back from the edge as I could, giving our camera back to my wife who needless to say found my vertigo a little funny! Everybody else was having a fantastic time around me but for about 15 minutes I just stared at the floor of the basket and silently prayed that we would start to go down! Thankfully my prayers were answered, we began to descend to have a look at the incredible rock formations and from then on it was great. We ducked and dived in and out of the valleys filled with their strange fairy chimneys and our guide gave us a great commentary on what we were seeing. The 3 balloons from the company all travelled together and it was quite fun taking it in turns to swoop down and then up again. By the end I was even feeling so comfortable that I even took back control of the camera! All in all it was a sensational experience - the landscape really has to be seen to be believed and the feeling of being in a balloon was so unique. The champagne was a nice touch once we'd landed and then we were whisked back to our hotel in a little jeep. I was a little concerned (being quite greedy..) that we had missed the Sacred House breakfast as it was gone 10 o'clock when we returned but I needn't have worried. The gracious house assistant took us up to the balcony where the table was laid for us and he proceeded to bring out omelettes, fresh fruit, bread, fresh lemonade and sensational little spicy meat puff pastries. My mouth is actually watering just remembering it!

We then decided that we would head over to Goreme open-air museum which is about a 15 minute drive away in Goreme. We caught a bus from the bus station in the centre of Urgup (you can just buy your tickets on the bus and the buses run once an hour) and it dropped us right outside the open air museum. The museum is essentially a big expanse of rock caves, many of which contain old, tiny churches with painted frescoes. You can either go on an organised trip or just walk around it yourself and we thought it would be more fun doing it ourselves. Entrance costs about the equivalent of 5 pounds and we spent a wonderful couple of hours strolling around. I'm sure we didn't learn as much as we could have done about all the churches but being by ourselves meant we could go into the caves by ourselves and not have it spoiled by a huge party of fellow tourists! It really is a truly unique place and an absolute must if you go to Cappadocia. We walked into Goreme after our visit (it's only about 15 minutes away) and had a stroll around. The first thing that hits you is the completely different atmosphere to Urgup. Firstly the place is seemingly one enormous road with huge amounts of traffic while the character of the place is most definitely given wholly over to tourism. There are quite a few tourist-tat shops and lots of little bars, cafes and youth hostels. For lunch we stopped at a wonderful place on the main drag that specialised in Borek (I think it's called the Borek Palace or some such thing) and I had an incredible borek (yes, my second of the day - by now I was getting fat…) filled with meat and cheese. My wife decided that she was still too full to eat anything after breakfast!

We then returned to Urgup by taxi (I think it only cost about 10 TYL) and went to our roof terrace to relax for the afternoon. We lazed about in the sunshine, read, took in the spectacular view and generally enjoyed ourselves. And just when we thought life couldn’t get any better we were presented with complimentary, freshly baked, oozing chocolate cake and fresh lemonade! When I think back to our honeymoon one of my happiest memories is undoubtedly of lying at the Sacred House, looking out at the mountains and at Urgup, feeling in a very foreign land a million miles from anywhere, eating cake and relaxing with my new wife.

We decided for our final day to book a trip to one of the Underground cities of Cappadocia and so in the early evening we wandered to Argeus to ask about tours. They sat us down and talked us through their tour which sounded very good, and when I asked about cost they said that they were a tiny bit more expensive than their competitors but that it was worth it. The cost for a full day tour would be $100 each. It did sound a little expensive so we said we would think about it. Across the road is another operator, Yuki Tours, who we then visited and were offered a very similar tour for only $35 each. A no brainer I think!

That evening we decided that we should head into Goreme to try a restaurant that had been highly recommended in the Lonely Planet - Alaturca. We got a taxi in and stopped off for a drink at a bar called the Flintstones Bar - one of the first bars you come to along the main road. Inside the atmosphere was great - a proper little cave warren with a roaring fire,
a huge array of drinks and cool music playing. We then walked to Alaturca which is a grand old mansion right in the centre of the village. The inside was very elegant but we had booked a table on the roof terrace. Unfortunately the rather austere waitress told us that our table had been given away even though we were early. I have to confess I did get a little annoyed and explained that we had come from Urgup especially and when she shrugged her shoulders I asked to see the manager. At that point the waitress started crying! Finally the tears thankfully subsided and manager found an extra table so all was well in the end - we had a fantastic meal and the service from the time we were seated was fabulous. My wife had a rich mushroomy starter and my main which was chicken wrapped in pastrami and then breadcrumbed was delicious. The meal came to about 130 TYL which was really good value. On the way back we thought we'd stop at one of the roadside bars that had cushions outside and hookah pipes so we found a particularly genuine-looking establishment and sat down. A few rakis later we were feeling slightly worse for wear and got up to leave.'No no!' exclaimed the old moustachioed owner who said that if we had one more raki his friend would drive us home to Urgup. Perhaps if stone cold sobre this may have not seemed like a good idea but we went along with it and at goodness knows what time of the morning said friend duly appeared from the bar looking rather dazed and told us to hop into his car. Except he only had one spare seat. And a boot. So it was that we rode back to Urgup driven by a slightly mad friend of a bar-owner with me in the passenger seat and my wife in the boot (she is quite small). My wife was not best pleased and claimed she had been terrified during the trip that we were about to be kidnapped!
The next day we went on our underground cities tour which was certainly worthwhile. We did a walk in The Red Valley in the morning and then visited Kaymakli, a spectacular labyrinthine city built within the caves for defensive purposes. During the walk we were told about the ancient forms of Christianity that were practised in the old churches and underground cities and our guide was very well informed if slightly dictatorial in checking that all of us were paying full attention at all times! We returned to our hotel, had more complimentary cake (toffee this time…) and then headed out to Dmitri, a restaurant in the older part of town that had been recommended to us. The restaurant was beautifully situated and was exquisite in every way. My wife's main course was lamb cooked in a sealed pot so when it came to serving it she was given a hammer and told to break the pot - gimmicky but fun! After dinner we dropped into the bar just next door to Dmitri in the steep, old part of town. What an extraordinary contrast to the centre of town…there was Ibiza-style chill-out music playing, hurricane lamps on the tables, really comfy sofas and a pricey cocktail menu - certainly not what I had expected to find in Urgup. We stayed for a couple of very relaxed drinks - so relaxed in fact that we almost fell asleep on our sofa gazing out at the stars - and then had a gentle downhill walk back to our hotel. We were off back to Istanbul the next morning but Cappadocia had been remarkable and I would highly recommend it. Neither Urgup or Goreme are picture-postcard perfect, but Urgup is certainly genuine and The Sacred House is truly one of the most interesting, luxurious, special and friendly places we have ever had the fortune to stay in.
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Old Oct 31st, 2007, 08:15 PM
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Very much enjoying your report! What an interesting start to your marriage. Hope it is long and full of the best adventures.

Yours is the best description of Urgup I have read, it really helps me picture it in my mind. We are staying in one of the "other" hotels, Esbelli Evi.

Also looking forward to your account of Santorini. We will be there next May, when we celebrate of 25th wedding anniversary. It is amazing how fast the time flew from "I will" to today!
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Old Nov 1st, 2007, 05:34 AM
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Thanks a lot! Congratulations on your upcoming 25th! Esbelli Evi was one of the ones and I remember seeing it and remarking to my wife that it was one of the ones I had been looking at on the internet. Good choice - it looked very nice!
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