Trip Report- Verona, Padua, Venice, Barcelona
Apr 28th, 2010, 07:45 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trip Report- Verona, Padua, Venice, Barcelona
Trip 4/16-4/26
Friday- We took an AA filght from JFK to MXP and barely avoided the Volcanic Ash issue. Decent flight nothing to speak of.
Saturday- We arrived in Milan at 8 am, got our bags in record time and took the Milan bus (Malpensa Shuttle) to the middle of town- very inexpensive and while full, quite comfortable for the 7 euros we spent each. We arrived at Milano Centrale into a madhouse because of the volcanic ash. We booked a first class ticket to Verona (abs not necessary because the trains were only full going West I later learned) and arrived there about 2 hours later. We took a taxi to Hotel Torcolo and 12 euro later we were greeted by a sweet old lady who showed us to room 11 on the second floor. The Hotel Torcolo is located in a tiny square of its own about a minute walk from Piazza Bra in a pretty central location. The room was adequate with a spacious bathroom and very large shower with awesome water pressure. I think we paid about 100 euro or so which was reasonable. Breakfast was not included and was about 6 euro each and was quite yummy with pastries, bread, yogurt, the usual. The breakfast room was right outside my door which was loud. We only stayed in Verona one night and had plenty of time to see everything. I think if we were to return we would stay near the train station just for sake of ease… Hotel Torcollo is very close (10 min max) and they were very helpful. We were also sent to the pizza place down the street Nostro Azzurro and told to ask for Paolo but the food was quite tasty. That night we ate at another place (not recommended to us by the old woman) and it was fine- its right on the square near the hotel. We visited all the main sites and churches and found the town quaint and sweet. The market on Saturday was absolutely amazing with all the fresh veggies etc. We also visited The Coliseum which is very close to the hotel. It’s in great condition but its just the arena so not a ton to see. We went to the four major churches (for which you can buy a tourist card to see) and they were all very beautiful. We also went to the Teatro Romano about a 15 min walk away which was just the old arena with some decent city views. The archeological museum is good if you haven’t been to many. The one is Istanbul blows it away in the first room.
Sunday am- was raining so we went to see Romeo and Juliets house. Was very cool but very touristy- nothing to really see outside and we didn’t have time for the museum. We took a cab back to the train station and had bought tickets to travel to Padua which is about an hour and a half away. No issues there despite the Volcanic Ash issue and we bought second class tickets, no need for first class here. Upon arrival in Padua we took a taxi to the Hotel Al Fagiano which was near the St Anthony Basilica. The hotel is very nice, spacious, clean, great light, clean bathrooms. I would definitely stay here again. I believe breakfast was not included but was delicious and the most food we received and very delightful cappuccinos. We had a 2 pm appointment at Cappella di Scrovegni (http://www.cappelladegliscrovegni.it/eng/index_e.htm) which I had booked online from the US so we set off to see the Basilica before we had to head over to the Cappella. The Basilica is in a huge square with lots of vendors selling trinkets and the like- great for little tokens. We walked up the Via del Santo from the Basilica to the Cappella in about 25 min with a short stop for amazing pizza at an unnamed shop. The pizza was amazing. I love Italian homemade pizza! The Capella is not to be missed. The 12 euro entry I had paid entitled us to the museum and the Cappella. Because we arrived about 1 hr before our entrance time we had time to visit the amplitheater of the museum which showed us a 15 min video of Giotti and his life- very well worth it. Just to be clear the Capella is further along the path than the museum. You must leave your purse/bags etc in the museum and pick up your tickets at the museum entrance- I didn’t know this and we went back and forth a few times before getting it right. Before you can enter the Capella you sit for another 15 min in a pressurized chamber and watch another video- its not the same as the museum and again worth it. The Capella made the whole trip to Padua worth it. It’s amazing and a must see. I wont do justice speaking of it so I’ll leave it at that. We explored the rest of the city but really those two things were the highlight. The church of St Juistina and the Botanical Gardens are also must sees. The botanical gardens has a palm tree from 1585. AMAZING. We ate dinner that night at Trattoria al Prato. Highly recommended. We had salad, cheese and risotto with a glass of wine. Very reasonably priced (I don’t remember the exact amount but perhaps 70-80 dollars)… the service was great and seriously the risotto with asparagus was absolutely the best I’ve ever tasted. Its located in Prato della Valle so it’s pretty convenient. If we ever returned to Padua or were going for the night I would stay by the train station. I think it was a 10-15 euro cab ride each way and the town is easily walkable.
MORE TO COME
Friday- We took an AA filght from JFK to MXP and barely avoided the Volcanic Ash issue. Decent flight nothing to speak of.
Saturday- We arrived in Milan at 8 am, got our bags in record time and took the Milan bus (Malpensa Shuttle) to the middle of town- very inexpensive and while full, quite comfortable for the 7 euros we spent each. We arrived at Milano Centrale into a madhouse because of the volcanic ash. We booked a first class ticket to Verona (abs not necessary because the trains were only full going West I later learned) and arrived there about 2 hours later. We took a taxi to Hotel Torcolo and 12 euro later we were greeted by a sweet old lady who showed us to room 11 on the second floor. The Hotel Torcolo is located in a tiny square of its own about a minute walk from Piazza Bra in a pretty central location. The room was adequate with a spacious bathroom and very large shower with awesome water pressure. I think we paid about 100 euro or so which was reasonable. Breakfast was not included and was about 6 euro each and was quite yummy with pastries, bread, yogurt, the usual. The breakfast room was right outside my door which was loud. We only stayed in Verona one night and had plenty of time to see everything. I think if we were to return we would stay near the train station just for sake of ease… Hotel Torcollo is very close (10 min max) and they were very helpful. We were also sent to the pizza place down the street Nostro Azzurro and told to ask for Paolo but the food was quite tasty. That night we ate at another place (not recommended to us by the old woman) and it was fine- its right on the square near the hotel. We visited all the main sites and churches and found the town quaint and sweet. The market on Saturday was absolutely amazing with all the fresh veggies etc. We also visited The Coliseum which is very close to the hotel. It’s in great condition but its just the arena so not a ton to see. We went to the four major churches (for which you can buy a tourist card to see) and they were all very beautiful. We also went to the Teatro Romano about a 15 min walk away which was just the old arena with some decent city views. The archeological museum is good if you haven’t been to many. The one is Istanbul blows it away in the first room.
Sunday am- was raining so we went to see Romeo and Juliets house. Was very cool but very touristy- nothing to really see outside and we didn’t have time for the museum. We took a cab back to the train station and had bought tickets to travel to Padua which is about an hour and a half away. No issues there despite the Volcanic Ash issue and we bought second class tickets, no need for first class here. Upon arrival in Padua we took a taxi to the Hotel Al Fagiano which was near the St Anthony Basilica. The hotel is very nice, spacious, clean, great light, clean bathrooms. I would definitely stay here again. I believe breakfast was not included but was delicious and the most food we received and very delightful cappuccinos. We had a 2 pm appointment at Cappella di Scrovegni (http://www.cappelladegliscrovegni.it/eng/index_e.htm) which I had booked online from the US so we set off to see the Basilica before we had to head over to the Cappella. The Basilica is in a huge square with lots of vendors selling trinkets and the like- great for little tokens. We walked up the Via del Santo from the Basilica to the Cappella in about 25 min with a short stop for amazing pizza at an unnamed shop. The pizza was amazing. I love Italian homemade pizza! The Capella is not to be missed. The 12 euro entry I had paid entitled us to the museum and the Cappella. Because we arrived about 1 hr before our entrance time we had time to visit the amplitheater of the museum which showed us a 15 min video of Giotti and his life- very well worth it. Just to be clear the Capella is further along the path than the museum. You must leave your purse/bags etc in the museum and pick up your tickets at the museum entrance- I didn’t know this and we went back and forth a few times before getting it right. Before you can enter the Capella you sit for another 15 min in a pressurized chamber and watch another video- its not the same as the museum and again worth it. The Capella made the whole trip to Padua worth it. It’s amazing and a must see. I wont do justice speaking of it so I’ll leave it at that. We explored the rest of the city but really those two things were the highlight. The church of St Juistina and the Botanical Gardens are also must sees. The botanical gardens has a palm tree from 1585. AMAZING. We ate dinner that night at Trattoria al Prato. Highly recommended. We had salad, cheese and risotto with a glass of wine. Very reasonably priced (I don’t remember the exact amount but perhaps 70-80 dollars)… the service was great and seriously the risotto with asparagus was absolutely the best I’ve ever tasted. Its located in Prato della Valle so it’s pretty convenient. If we ever returned to Padua or were going for the night I would stay by the train station. I think it was a 10-15 euro cab ride each way and the town is easily walkable.
MORE TO COME
Apr 28th, 2010, 10:01 AM
#3
Brings back memories of our trip last Spring. U sure did alot in short order in Verona! Isn't the Scrovegni Chapel just unreal? We did a double turn and during the turnover from one group to another, we were totally by ourselves which was really amazing. Not sure if u looked into the tram or train in Padua but it was an easy, inexpensive way to get around and back and forth to the train station. Looking forward to reading more.
Apr 28th, 2010, 10:53 AM
#4
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Monday- we woke up early and cabbed it to the train station in Padua. We actually had already bought tickets the day before to Venezia Santa Lucia- 2nd class as the trip is only an hour or so. Arrived in Santa Lucia and promptly bought 3 day Venezia vaporetto passes, activated them (just on the platform) and then took the 51 boat to Lido. I love Lido, as does my mother and that’s why we choose to stay there BUT let me tell you from ‘Stazione’ it is a hike and a half. Took close to an hour. We arrived in Lido and a short walk away was our hotel (where we have stayed before) Hotel Cristallo right on the main drag- Via Santa Maria Elisabetta about a 7 min walk down. We’ve stayed here before and it’s really inexpensive- especially for Venice. I paid 77 euros a night (using Expedia). The hotel is clean, has fans and a/c but can’t attest to the a/c because I’ve never used it. The rooms are all different but the bathrooms are OK in space and have good water pressure (I’m all about water pressure). The breakfast is also included and the croissants are heavenly. The coffee is really good too. I think that’s why I like it. Oh and the price! The price is heavenly. The hotel owner is a quite plump middle aged man who speaks decent English and is quite accommodating. He let us do a late check out Thurs for a marginal fee which was nice- but I digress. We arrived around 2 pm to Lido, checked into our room and changed before heading out for Lunch. We were starved. We ate at a place which is right up the road on via Lepanto. Its half indoors, half outdoors, more of a wine bar (well really campari because that’s all these Italians drink I tell you!) but has excellent salads (very reasonably priced) and very good sandwiches (grilled veggies with cheese comes with hefty zucchini and a lovely unidentified cheese). If you’re looking for it turn down Via Lepanto and it’s the last place on the right before you get to the canal, you’ll find it I promise. I think for water, prosecco and 2 salads (caprese and greca) it was 30 euro. Can’t beat that in Italy- again, especially venezia!! After lunch we decided to do something we hadn’t. Now, you have to understand this is my 4th time to Venice and my mother’s 3rd time. In total we had spent 8 days in Venice together prior to this occasion. We’ve been to all the major sites, sometimes multiple times but my mom loves Lido so to Lido I take her.
We decided to head to Cimiterio. Yes, the cemetery. It’s a rather famous and funny looking island and Ezra Pound is buried there so I thought why not. It was awesome. We took the 51 back to Fondamente Novo and then switched to the 41 or 42 (it doesn’t matter) to Cimiterio. We spent about an hour walking around- it’s really beautiful. Every tomb has flowers and pictures- the Italians really take care of their dead. A bit morbid but very pretty. We then headed back down to San Marco square to just absorb from Venetian air and eventually after a few meandering hours took the vaporetto back to Lido where we ate a dinner at Roxy right on the main drag. Pizza and salad with some house wine- quite delicious and pretty reasonable for about $65.
Tuesday- we slept in a bit, had a yummy breakfast and decided to take the number 1 vaporetto up the main canal. It is a slow moving vaporetto with a lot of stops- but absolutely perfect for soaking up the sights. It was a gorgeous day so we decided to begin our meandering. We finally got off at Rialto in hunt for a t-shirt to bring back as a present. That quickly accomplished we wandered aimlessly around the Santa Croce area and ended up at- Enoiteca Al Prosecco S. Croce 1503 - Campo San Giacomo da l'Orio – Venezia That night we were headed to Osteria La Zucca (Address: Santa Croce 1762, 30135 Venice (Italy)) and wanted to check out the location. Enoteca Al Prosecco is awesome. We shared a cheese plate and two crostinis with cheese and tomatoes that were so delectable I wanted more even though I was stuffed. The food was outrageously good. As was the prosecco. I definitely had 2 glasses- and at lunch, for me, that’s a lot. A great neighborhood find in a great square so it’s nice and open and sunny and wonderful. We wandered around a little more (our famous Venezia activity) and then my mom got it in her head that we should travel to the less traveled islands. We headed to San Zaccaria to switch for the vaporetto #20 which took us to San Servolo- the trip takes about 10 min and to be honest I never had noticed this island prior to this visit. It houses the Venice International University and a conference center. While it’s pretty it’s definitely not worth the visit. The vaporetto only arrives once every 40 min so we sat in the sun to wait for it. We then headed back to San Zaccaria and then headed back to Lido to get changed for that evening. Osteria San Zucca is tricky. It’s on a street Tindor which is very small and also is mistakenly named Tendor on most maps. It’s right off the San Stae vaporetto stop. Less than a 5 min walk. Even Google maps got it wrong 1x so be forewarned it’s hard to find unless you Google map it on your cell phone (at least for me). We had reservations and yes you need them. The place is weird- it has huge tables for 5-6 but they seat 1 party of 2 at them. Quite frankly while this is a nice change it’s also a bit ridiculous and by the time they turned away the 5th party I wanted to offer part of our table up. I used Amex Concierge to get the resy because I never got through when calling from the US. I highly recommend the place- we are both very vegetarian heavy and this place had a lot of vegetables. I had some great house wine, green salad, artichoke and gruyere cheese lasagna and my mom had some potato terrine which she loved and something else which I can’t remember. The desserts were outrageous. I had chocolate cake and tiramisu (we split). Very good. Decently priced at $86. Vaporetto back to Lido and to bed we went…
Wednesday- TRIESTE
We decided to head to Cimiterio. Yes, the cemetery. It’s a rather famous and funny looking island and Ezra Pound is buried there so I thought why not. It was awesome. We took the 51 back to Fondamente Novo and then switched to the 41 or 42 (it doesn’t matter) to Cimiterio. We spent about an hour walking around- it’s really beautiful. Every tomb has flowers and pictures- the Italians really take care of their dead. A bit morbid but very pretty. We then headed back down to San Marco square to just absorb from Venetian air and eventually after a few meandering hours took the vaporetto back to Lido where we ate a dinner at Roxy right on the main drag. Pizza and salad with some house wine- quite delicious and pretty reasonable for about $65.
Tuesday- we slept in a bit, had a yummy breakfast and decided to take the number 1 vaporetto up the main canal. It is a slow moving vaporetto with a lot of stops- but absolutely perfect for soaking up the sights. It was a gorgeous day so we decided to begin our meandering. We finally got off at Rialto in hunt for a t-shirt to bring back as a present. That quickly accomplished we wandered aimlessly around the Santa Croce area and ended up at- Enoiteca Al Prosecco S. Croce 1503 - Campo San Giacomo da l'Orio – Venezia That night we were headed to Osteria La Zucca (Address: Santa Croce 1762, 30135 Venice (Italy)) and wanted to check out the location. Enoteca Al Prosecco is awesome. We shared a cheese plate and two crostinis with cheese and tomatoes that were so delectable I wanted more even though I was stuffed. The food was outrageously good. As was the prosecco. I definitely had 2 glasses- and at lunch, for me, that’s a lot. A great neighborhood find in a great square so it’s nice and open and sunny and wonderful. We wandered around a little more (our famous Venezia activity) and then my mom got it in her head that we should travel to the less traveled islands. We headed to San Zaccaria to switch for the vaporetto #20 which took us to San Servolo- the trip takes about 10 min and to be honest I never had noticed this island prior to this visit. It houses the Venice International University and a conference center. While it’s pretty it’s definitely not worth the visit. The vaporetto only arrives once every 40 min so we sat in the sun to wait for it. We then headed back to San Zaccaria and then headed back to Lido to get changed for that evening. Osteria San Zucca is tricky. It’s on a street Tindor which is very small and also is mistakenly named Tendor on most maps. It’s right off the San Stae vaporetto stop. Less than a 5 min walk. Even Google maps got it wrong 1x so be forewarned it’s hard to find unless you Google map it on your cell phone (at least for me). We had reservations and yes you need them. The place is weird- it has huge tables for 5-6 but they seat 1 party of 2 at them. Quite frankly while this is a nice change it’s also a bit ridiculous and by the time they turned away the 5th party I wanted to offer part of our table up. I used Amex Concierge to get the resy because I never got through when calling from the US. I highly recommend the place- we are both very vegetarian heavy and this place had a lot of vegetables. I had some great house wine, green salad, artichoke and gruyere cheese lasagna and my mom had some potato terrine which she loved and something else which I can’t remember. The desserts were outrageous. I had chocolate cake and tiramisu (we split). Very good. Decently priced at $86. Vaporetto back to Lido and to bed we went…
Wednesday- TRIESTE
Apr 28th, 2010, 10:55 AM
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yestravel- the Chapel was outrageous. We were absolutely astonished by the technique. My mom and I SWORE that the marble was real and that there was depth to the paintings like as if they were in frames. It was crazy! I really really loved it and was glad I knew to book in advance- although when we got there at 1 you could book for 7 that night- it was a Sunday though and the town was quite empty.
We didnt look into the tram. Since it was our 2nd day of sightseeing we were all psyched to walk all over town. NOthing was too far and while we walked quite a bit we enjoyed it. I do think though that for a 1 night stay you might as well stay near the station if the prices make it worth your while.
We didnt look into the tram. Since it was our 2nd day of sightseeing we were all psyched to walk all over town. NOthing was too far and while we walked quite a bit we enjoyed it. I do think though that for a 1 night stay you might as well stay near the station if the prices make it worth your while.
May 4th, 2010, 05:26 PM
#7
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you for your report. We were last in Venice 3 years and have our flights to go back in October. We plan then to see as well Padua, Ravenna, and Castelrotti. Thus, I was very interested to read your report on Padua, as well as about your excursions to the "other" islands in Venice. When we were in Venice previously (for over a week) we never visited any of them. We are thinking of possibly visiting the well known 3 of Murano, Burano and Torcello. I have seen the cemetery on maps and certainly heard of the Lido. Have you visited any of the others and if so which did you like most and why?
May 24th, 2010, 03:37 PM
#8
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,522
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
About Scrovegni Chapel, how far in advance do you have to book tickets? Using the website?
In general, is it easy to book train and bus tickets to go from one city to the other? Or we need to book everything in advance?
Thanks!
In general, is it easy to book train and bus tickets to go from one city to the other? Or we need to book everything in advance?
Thanks!
Jun 1st, 2010, 06:14 PM
#10
I had our hotel book the tixs to the Chapel and asked them to do it about 1 month in advance. We bought train tixs at the statiion, the day we departed or a day or 2 before if we knew when we were travellling. This ws in late April/May and some of our trips were over the Italian holidays at the end of April and May 1.
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bfrac
Europe
27
Sep 22nd, 2010 08:25 PM
