Trip Report - Venice, Umbria & Rome - Sept 2013
Oct 31st, 2013, 10:54 AM
#1
Original Poster
Trip Report - Venice, Umbria & Rome - Sept 2013
We (my wife and I) returned from a trip to Italy that took place during the first half of September.
The focus of the trip was Umbria (We had been to Tuscany two years before).
However, since we arrived in Venice (we’d been there twice before), I planned several day trips to Padua, Veronna, Vicenza and Ferrara.
After Venice we went to Perugia that served as our base for Umbria. I planned day trips to Spello, Gubbio, Todi and Spoleto.
We ended in Rome (we’d been there twice before) and spent two days there.
Since we were staying in cities for the entire trip, I put an overnight in Orvieto between Perugia and Rome.
I should add that we have never rented a car in Europe. We travel mostly by train and a little by bus. A couple of years ago in Provence we took a half day mini-bus tour to Gorde, Roussillon and Les Baux.
Other than a city bus driver in Spoleto who appeared to be amused that we didn’t know where to get off his bus (he provided no help), and a very bad bus ride back from Gubbio, transportation worked out well. It just required some planning.
Since I planned the Venice part of the trip separately from the Perugia part, I didn’t pay attention to the fact that I had too many day trips. Four destinations in addition to the bases was just too many.
If I had it to plan over again I would drop at least one day trip (maybe more) from each of Venice and Perugia. Also, I would have included Orvieto as a day trip from Rome instead of an overnight on its own. Just too much luggage hassle for what we got out of it. Orvieto is very nice but not any more beautiful than Rome at night.
It appears I’m focusing on the negative but in reality there were very few. I’m just pointing them out.
As it turned out we enjoyed the wandering days in the main bases of Venice, Perugia and Rome at least as much as the day trips to the smaller towns/cities.
At one point I left my wife at a flea market in Perugia and I wandered around taking photos. I saw a building off in the distance with a deck on the roof. I walk until I got to the building (University of Perugia for Foreigners), walked in and made my way up any stairs I saw to the roof. I pretended I belonged there and I guess my camera didn’t cause an issue.
Somebody on the roof for a smoke left and locked the door behind him. I made my way thru an open window into an office and walked by some people into a hallway and back down the stairs. Nothing like some adventure.
You can see my photos at:
www.travelwalks.com
The focus of the trip was Umbria (We had been to Tuscany two years before).
However, since we arrived in Venice (we’d been there twice before), I planned several day trips to Padua, Veronna, Vicenza and Ferrara.
After Venice we went to Perugia that served as our base for Umbria. I planned day trips to Spello, Gubbio, Todi and Spoleto.
We ended in Rome (we’d been there twice before) and spent two days there.
Since we were staying in cities for the entire trip, I put an overnight in Orvieto between Perugia and Rome.
I should add that we have never rented a car in Europe. We travel mostly by train and a little by bus. A couple of years ago in Provence we took a half day mini-bus tour to Gorde, Roussillon and Les Baux.
Other than a city bus driver in Spoleto who appeared to be amused that we didn’t know where to get off his bus (he provided no help), and a very bad bus ride back from Gubbio, transportation worked out well. It just required some planning.
Since I planned the Venice part of the trip separately from the Perugia part, I didn’t pay attention to the fact that I had too many day trips. Four destinations in addition to the bases was just too many.
If I had it to plan over again I would drop at least one day trip (maybe more) from each of Venice and Perugia. Also, I would have included Orvieto as a day trip from Rome instead of an overnight on its own. Just too much luggage hassle for what we got out of it. Orvieto is very nice but not any more beautiful than Rome at night.
It appears I’m focusing on the negative but in reality there were very few. I’m just pointing them out.
As it turned out we enjoyed the wandering days in the main bases of Venice, Perugia and Rome at least as much as the day trips to the smaller towns/cities.
At one point I left my wife at a flea market in Perugia and I wandered around taking photos. I saw a building off in the distance with a deck on the roof. I walk until I got to the building (University of Perugia for Foreigners), walked in and made my way up any stairs I saw to the roof. I pretended I belonged there and I guess my camera didn’t cause an issue.
Somebody on the roof for a smoke left and locked the door behind him. I made my way thru an open window into an office and walked by some people into a hallway and back down the stairs. Nothing like some adventure.
You can see my photos at:
www.travelwalks.com
Oct 31st, 2013, 11:10 AM
#2
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 29,599
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Have gotten as far as Padua with your shots--what camera please? Nice low light show of St. Mark's and surely that couple on the landing were models!
Can't read to read more and LOL at your rooftop adventure! Hub and I have visited/stayed at many of the places you mention above so it will great fun to have a virtual return!
Can't read to read more and LOL at your rooftop adventure! Hub and I have visited/stayed at many of the places you mention above so it will great fun to have a virtual return!
Oct 31st, 2013, 05:42 PM
#4
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,754
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Myer,
I cannot wait to read the rest! My sister once got locked out on castle walls in Cornwall - in the winter! She yelled for a long time before any came to save her.
Your adventure sounds a bit more "Bond".
I cannot wait to read the rest! My sister once got locked out on castle walls in Cornwall - in the winter! She yelled for a long time before any came to save her.
Your adventure sounds a bit more "Bond".
Nov 1st, 2013, 03:30 AM
#8
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 19,230
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great shots, myer. Your pics of Perugia make me want to go back. I'd been there years ago on a day trip but obviously I missed a lot of the panoramas. Just beautiful.
Looking forward to more of your report.
Looking forward to more of your report.
Nov 1st, 2013, 05:08 AM
#9
Original Poster
To All,
I didn't think there was any more to the trip report.
The closest thing to a museum that we went to was a house museum (di Palazzo Sorbello) in Perugia about 2 minutes from the Cathedral.
Everywhere we went we just wandered around.
My wife is a retired librarian (actually she worked for a university part-time teaching graduate students how to do computer research) so she's always looking for libraries and book stores.
There are pictures of the one we found (my wife had researched it in advance and the trick was finding it) in Venice and another (an English bookstore) in Rome.
TDudette,
I have to admit that I read about that roof-top somewhere but forgot about it. I was just above the aqueduct and was looking down the hill and further out and notice that building with a rooftop deck.
The building has somewhat of a pink color so I just kept walking until I got to it. Very few people inside even look at me. I walked past some classrooms in session.
The funny part was when I walk thru a window into some guy's office. He was there at his desk and looked up at me. I just waved and walked out into a hallway. Then I went the opposite way. Any stairs that went down I took.
Can I assume that was the school where Amanda Knox went? I didn't ask and never heard he name.
Spoleto. We were quite turned off with the place. We got off the train and I asked a bus driver about a square I had marked on my map. He said some other name and pointed to a bus. I go on the bus and mentioned the square I wanted. The driver said nothing.
We then took an hour-long bus ride. The route was a figure-8. So we passed our eventual destination right near the start but only once. We passed the train station twice and eventually got off there and took a taxi.
The bus driver looked at us in the mirror a few times. Never said anything and didn't point. I think he was amused.
By the time we got to that square we felt like leaving. But didn't. It took us a while to get back into tourist mode.
I remember that during the trip we thought of Vicenza as a one-horse town. Now that I look at the photos it was nicer than I remember.
Ferrara also. Nicer when I look at the photos. We rented bikes and drove to the wall and biked. I remember thinking that the views during the bike ride were nowhere near as nice as the views during the bike ride on the wall in Lucca. But still, fun.
I do remember it was a bit rushed when we made two stops the same day.
We really had little interest in Assisi. stopped and didn't stay very long.
I Padua, we probably would have wandered thru the big park a little more but left to train to Veronna. In Veronna I'm glad we didn't just stop at the main part of the town but went past and across the bridge.
In Veronna, while Juliet's balcony is not real, it was fun to go there and watch all the people finding spots to write their messages.
As I mentioned in the report, we had been to Rome and Venice twice before each so didn't think we'd enjoy it. We were quite surprised that our favorite days were those we stayed (in Venice, Perugia and Rome) and just wandered.
TDudette,
My camera is a Canon DSLR model T2i (I think they're now up to T5i or T6i) and a very excellent 15-85 lens. When planning a trip many people think they need a telephoto lens. Actually, it's the exact opposite. I took a telephoto lens to National Park trips for wildlife. Not on European trips.
Most people carry an 18-xx lens. Mine being 15-85 is 20% wider. It's also very sharp at all settings. Obviously not the kit lens that comes with a camera. It cost more than the camera.
I'm getting very close to replacing my camera. Possibly the new Canon 70D. I want better high ISO performance (for dim light) and faster / better focusing.
TDudette,
If you look at that Trevi photo you may be able to tell it's quite early in the morning. I go out with my camera early while my wife is still asleep.
= = = =
I didn't mention where we stayed.
In Venice Hotel Ca'd'Oro. It was selected since it's located between the Rialto Bridge and the train station. Since we were going on daytrips I wanted to be reasonably close to the train. Other than not being able to find it it was fine. Obviously, if I was spending a couple of days in Venice without day trips I night have picked a different location. Still it was fine.
Perugia. We stayed at Hotel Fortuna. Hotel was fine and location excellent.
Orvieto. Hotel Duomo right near the Cathedral. Probably our nicest hotel.
Rome. Albergo Cesari. Hotel was fine and location amazing. Turn left you're at the Pantheon. Turn right you're at the Trevi Fountain and on to the Spanish Steps.
= = = =
We took taxis a couple of times to save energy. We were surprised how inexpensive they were.
We taxied from Victor Emmanuelle's monument to Trestevere where we spent the evening wandering and ate. It only cost a few Euros.
About restaurants. There was a time we used to make a list. Essentially we don't have lunch. We may stop for a snack or pick something up and stop in a park. For dinner, we eat where we happened to be. Same in Tuscany, Provence, etc, etc.
Crowds. We went in early September. I thought we might be past crowded season. Venice was crowded and Rome was over-crowded. No such thing as a deserted street. Every space had outdoor tables.
A funny thing. My wife walked into a restaurant (sort-of) near the Spanish Steps. She asked for a cappuccino at the counter. They asked where she wanted to drink it. She asked what the difference was. I think it was 1 or 2 Euros compared to 6 or 8 outside. She drank it at the counter. Cooler inside anyway.
Thanks for all the kind words to everyone about the photos.
If there are any questions about what we saw or did just ask.
I didn't think there was any more to the trip report.
The closest thing to a museum that we went to was a house museum (di Palazzo Sorbello) in Perugia about 2 minutes from the Cathedral.
Everywhere we went we just wandered around.
My wife is a retired librarian (actually she worked for a university part-time teaching graduate students how to do computer research) so she's always looking for libraries and book stores.
There are pictures of the one we found (my wife had researched it in advance and the trick was finding it) in Venice and another (an English bookstore) in Rome.
TDudette,
I have to admit that I read about that roof-top somewhere but forgot about it. I was just above the aqueduct and was looking down the hill and further out and notice that building with a rooftop deck.
The building has somewhat of a pink color so I just kept walking until I got to it. Very few people inside even look at me. I walked past some classrooms in session.
The funny part was when I walk thru a window into some guy's office. He was there at his desk and looked up at me. I just waved and walked out into a hallway. Then I went the opposite way. Any stairs that went down I took.
Can I assume that was the school where Amanda Knox went? I didn't ask and never heard he name.
Spoleto. We were quite turned off with the place. We got off the train and I asked a bus driver about a square I had marked on my map. He said some other name and pointed to a bus. I go on the bus and mentioned the square I wanted. The driver said nothing.
We then took an hour-long bus ride. The route was a figure-8. So we passed our eventual destination right near the start but only once. We passed the train station twice and eventually got off there and took a taxi.
The bus driver looked at us in the mirror a few times. Never said anything and didn't point. I think he was amused.
By the time we got to that square we felt like leaving. But didn't. It took us a while to get back into tourist mode.
I remember that during the trip we thought of Vicenza as a one-horse town. Now that I look at the photos it was nicer than I remember.
Ferrara also. Nicer when I look at the photos. We rented bikes and drove to the wall and biked. I remember thinking that the views during the bike ride were nowhere near as nice as the views during the bike ride on the wall in Lucca. But still, fun.
I do remember it was a bit rushed when we made two stops the same day.
We really had little interest in Assisi. stopped and didn't stay very long.
I Padua, we probably would have wandered thru the big park a little more but left to train to Veronna. In Veronna I'm glad we didn't just stop at the main part of the town but went past and across the bridge.
In Veronna, while Juliet's balcony is not real, it was fun to go there and watch all the people finding spots to write their messages.
As I mentioned in the report, we had been to Rome and Venice twice before each so didn't think we'd enjoy it. We were quite surprised that our favorite days were those we stayed (in Venice, Perugia and Rome) and just wandered.
TDudette,
My camera is a Canon DSLR model T2i (I think they're now up to T5i or T6i) and a very excellent 15-85 lens. When planning a trip many people think they need a telephoto lens. Actually, it's the exact opposite. I took a telephoto lens to National Park trips for wildlife. Not on European trips.
Most people carry an 18-xx lens. Mine being 15-85 is 20% wider. It's also very sharp at all settings. Obviously not the kit lens that comes with a camera. It cost more than the camera.
I'm getting very close to replacing my camera. Possibly the new Canon 70D. I want better high ISO performance (for dim light) and faster / better focusing.
TDudette,
If you look at that Trevi photo you may be able to tell it's quite early in the morning. I go out with my camera early while my wife is still asleep.
= = = =
I didn't mention where we stayed.
In Venice Hotel Ca'd'Oro. It was selected since it's located between the Rialto Bridge and the train station. Since we were going on daytrips I wanted to be reasonably close to the train. Other than not being able to find it it was fine. Obviously, if I was spending a couple of days in Venice without day trips I night have picked a different location. Still it was fine.
Perugia. We stayed at Hotel Fortuna. Hotel was fine and location excellent.
Orvieto. Hotel Duomo right near the Cathedral. Probably our nicest hotel.
Rome. Albergo Cesari. Hotel was fine and location amazing. Turn left you're at the Pantheon. Turn right you're at the Trevi Fountain and on to the Spanish Steps.
= = = =
We took taxis a couple of times to save energy. We were surprised how inexpensive they were.
We taxied from Victor Emmanuelle's monument to Trestevere where we spent the evening wandering and ate. It only cost a few Euros.
About restaurants. There was a time we used to make a list. Essentially we don't have lunch. We may stop for a snack or pick something up and stop in a park. For dinner, we eat where we happened to be. Same in Tuscany, Provence, etc, etc.
Crowds. We went in early September. I thought we might be past crowded season. Venice was crowded and Rome was over-crowded. No such thing as a deserted street. Every space had outdoor tables.
A funny thing. My wife walked into a restaurant (sort-of) near the Spanish Steps. She asked for a cappuccino at the counter. They asked where she wanted to drink it. She asked what the difference was. I think it was 1 or 2 Euros compared to 6 or 8 outside. She drank it at the counter. Cooler inside anyway.
Thanks for all the kind words to everyone about the photos.
If there are any questions about what we saw or did just ask.
Nov 1st, 2013, 07:55 AM
#11
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 29,599
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We based in Spoleto and wanted to take a taxi up the big hill to the Duomo. The taxi driver said "no taxi" and we just stood there. Then he said "OK i take you there". It was weird! I think we took the same figure 8 bus as well. Once we got our bearings, we found train trips easy from Spoleto. The aquaduct was amazing, eh?
Nov 1st, 2013, 09:33 AM
#13
Original Poster
zoecat,
Gubbio. My wife suffers from motion sickness. I'm better than her but. . . . Going there we were ok. On the return I could see she was having a bit of a hard time. Then I notice I was sweating and not feeling great. We made it back and just sat at the bus station for a while.
My plan was to take the ride up the hill. As we were leaving I realized I forgot to do it. Oh, well.
Yes, we went to Todi and Spello. Spello was at the bottom of my list. We were very surprised. It was clean and beautiful. Definitely worth a daytrip.
We went to Todi. Took that private train from Perugia. Train was surprisingly comfortable. Todi was very nice.
The problem with doing so many daytrips is that all the places get mixed together. I have to check the photos to remember and tell them apart.
TDudette,
You were based in Spoleto so you got your bearings straight eventually. We were there for a few hours and spent the first hour on a bus to nowhere.
Yes, the aquaduct was great. I think I have a couple of pictures on my web site. We stop at an outdoor place just past it for a snack.
After that bus incident it took us a little while to get back into tourist mode.
Holly_. . . .
It was a bit cloudy the first day on our day trip to Verona. It actually drizzled a bit.
The rest of the time we had sun and warm weather. Excellent weather.
Gubbio. My wife suffers from motion sickness. I'm better than her but. . . . Going there we were ok. On the return I could see she was having a bit of a hard time. Then I notice I was sweating and not feeling great. We made it back and just sat at the bus station for a while.
My plan was to take the ride up the hill. As we were leaving I realized I forgot to do it. Oh, well.
Yes, we went to Todi and Spello. Spello was at the bottom of my list. We were very surprised. It was clean and beautiful. Definitely worth a daytrip.
We went to Todi. Took that private train from Perugia. Train was surprisingly comfortable. Todi was very nice.
The problem with doing so many daytrips is that all the places get mixed together. I have to check the photos to remember and tell them apart.
TDudette,
You were based in Spoleto so you got your bearings straight eventually. We were there for a few hours and spent the first hour on a bus to nowhere.
Yes, the aquaduct was great. I think I have a couple of pictures on my web site. We stop at an outdoor place just past it for a snack.
After that bus incident it took us a little while to get back into tourist mode.
Holly_. . . .
It was a bit cloudy the first day on our day trip to Verona. It actually drizzled a bit.
The rest of the time we had sun and warm weather. Excellent weather.
Nov 2nd, 2013, 04:30 AM
#15
Original Poster
drchris,
Thanks.
I was a little concerned that the towns in Umbria would have an abandoned look/feel to them after Tuscany.
I was wrong. There were enough locals and tourists so that they had an inviting feel.
Like I wrote above. The only thing I would have done differently was include a few less daytrips. Of course, the problem in advance is deciding which to omit.
Thanks.
I was a little concerned that the towns in Umbria would have an abandoned look/feel to them after Tuscany.
I was wrong. There were enough locals and tourists so that they had an inviting feel.
Like I wrote above. The only thing I would have done differently was include a few less daytrips. Of course, the problem in advance is deciding which to omit.
