Trip Report: Two weeks solo in Turkey – Warning: Details, Details….
Dec 27th, 2004, 09:17 PM
#21
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,464
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Matisse:
Thank you for this very informative report - I hope there is more to come (PLEEDING). BTW, there is no such thing as too much detail
I had planned a long week-end in Istanbul in December around some business meetings; unfortunately, the meetings got cancelled and so did the trip. I am now hoping for a longer trip in Turkey sometime in 2005.
I prefer to drive, rather than take public transportation; I have driven, on my own, in France, Spain and N. Italy, on my own. From your observations, would you have felt comfortable driving in Turkey on your own?
Looking forward to more ... and keep giving us more details, details ...
Regards Ger
Thank you for this very informative report - I hope there is more to come (PLEEDING). BTW, there is no such thing as too much detail
I had planned a long week-end in Istanbul in December around some business meetings; unfortunately, the meetings got cancelled and so did the trip. I am now hoping for a longer trip in Turkey sometime in 2005.
I prefer to drive, rather than take public transportation; I have driven, on my own, in France, Spain and N. Italy, on my own. From your observations, would you have felt comfortable driving in Turkey on your own?
Looking forward to more ... and keep giving us more details, details ...
Regards Ger
Dec 28th, 2004, 02:26 PM
#22
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The hotel arranged a shuttle van to Kayseri airport ($10) which took about 1 hour. I had bought my one way ticket to Istanbul on the Turkish airlines (THY) website, and picked it up at Kayseri airport. I paid $75 instead of $150 which it cost by calling Turkish here or booking through Expedia. The flight, which was delayed (actually all 4 Turkish flights I took left late) took 1 hour. A gent was waiting for me at the airport and brought me to Hotel Turkoman.
About hotels, I emailed lots of hotels trying to find exactly what I wanted: a well located hotel, a room with a view of the Blue Mosque or the sea, free airport transfer, and a tv, for around $40/night all incl. All the hotels were quick to reply with friendly responses. One hotel, when responding that they couldn’t match the rate I wanted, said I should come by for a coffee while in Istanbul anyway! Also, I received quite a few “Happy Holiday” emails when I got back from places I didn’t even stay at.
I really liked the Turkoman, it was like a small Parisian 2 star in a restored Ottoman bldg (no elevator). No real frills, but a sunny corner 3rd floor room with 2 windows, “antique” furniture, desk/chair, armchair, and a strong radiator! The bathroom was a bit or a problem because the shower was (like a few hotels I saw) a raised platform with a shower curtain that wasn’t long enough, so there was a wet floor after every shower. The best was my view which was not only of the Blue Mosque, but of part of the Bosphorous as well. 40 Euros/night with 10% discount for cash payment, so it worked out to about $42/night.
I spent 5 nights at the Turkoman. Their breakfast room (with fireplace), and their terrace have that same great view I had from my room. The breakfast was good too. Along with the usual items were: yogurt, really crunchy cereal, dried apricots, little cheese filled phyllo rolls, and these delicious zucchini fritters.
A 5 minute walk took me over to Divan Yolu one of the main streets in Sultanahmet where storekeepers were aggressively trying to get me, and everybody else into their shops and restos. It was always the same: “Where are you from. What’s your name? I have a shop…” By this time I could say “hello”, where I was from and “no thank you” in Turkish, so that helped a little. Sometimes as soon as someone would approach I’d just say “where’s the store”, and if it wasn’t down the block and up 2 flights, I’d go. I’d heard about Turkish people staring, and that was definitely true. It started in Ankara, but definitely went up a few notches in this town.
Visited the Blue Mosque (always free), Aya Sofia (15mil or $10.54). In retrospect I would not have minded a guide for Aya Sofia because although I could appreciate it’s immense stature and beauty, by the time I got there I’d forgotten most of what I’d read about it when I got there. Took a ferry over to Kadikoy on the Asian side. The ride, which is only about 15-20 minutes cost 1 or 1.5 mil. Again, no tourists over here, just locals going about their business.
About hotels, I emailed lots of hotels trying to find exactly what I wanted: a well located hotel, a room with a view of the Blue Mosque or the sea, free airport transfer, and a tv, for around $40/night all incl. All the hotels were quick to reply with friendly responses. One hotel, when responding that they couldn’t match the rate I wanted, said I should come by for a coffee while in Istanbul anyway! Also, I received quite a few “Happy Holiday” emails when I got back from places I didn’t even stay at.
I really liked the Turkoman, it was like a small Parisian 2 star in a restored Ottoman bldg (no elevator). No real frills, but a sunny corner 3rd floor room with 2 windows, “antique” furniture, desk/chair, armchair, and a strong radiator! The bathroom was a bit or a problem because the shower was (like a few hotels I saw) a raised platform with a shower curtain that wasn’t long enough, so there was a wet floor after every shower. The best was my view which was not only of the Blue Mosque, but of part of the Bosphorous as well. 40 Euros/night with 10% discount for cash payment, so it worked out to about $42/night.
I spent 5 nights at the Turkoman. Their breakfast room (with fireplace), and their terrace have that same great view I had from my room. The breakfast was good too. Along with the usual items were: yogurt, really crunchy cereal, dried apricots, little cheese filled phyllo rolls, and these delicious zucchini fritters.
A 5 minute walk took me over to Divan Yolu one of the main streets in Sultanahmet where storekeepers were aggressively trying to get me, and everybody else into their shops and restos. It was always the same: “Where are you from. What’s your name? I have a shop…” By this time I could say “hello”, where I was from and “no thank you” in Turkish, so that helped a little. Sometimes as soon as someone would approach I’d just say “where’s the store”, and if it wasn’t down the block and up 2 flights, I’d go. I’d heard about Turkish people staring, and that was definitely true. It started in Ankara, but definitely went up a few notches in this town.
Visited the Blue Mosque (always free), Aya Sofia (15mil or $10.54). In retrospect I would not have minded a guide for Aya Sofia because although I could appreciate it’s immense stature and beauty, by the time I got there I’d forgotten most of what I’d read about it when I got there. Took a ferry over to Kadikoy on the Asian side. The ride, which is only about 15-20 minutes cost 1 or 1.5 mil. Again, no tourists over here, just locals going about their business.
Dec 28th, 2004, 02:33 PM
#23
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had to go to the Grand Bazaar, not because I’m a masochist, but I actually wanted to buy things. Yes they try every trick in the book to get you into their shops, and it is exhausting, but I’d already done time in the souks of Fez and Marrakech, so I was prepared. It was somewhat busy, lots of Spaniards around, but some of the guys in the shops were saying that business was still not very good. Unfortunately, I didn’t find a lot there, the prices were just too high. They wanted ridiculous amounts for leather bags and jackets. The starting prices for the ones I liked were around $150, then they didn’t want to go below $100. As an example of the how they inflate the prices, I was interested in a leather jacket, and the starting price was $700, shortly after it went down to $200 which was still too high because it wasn’t in perfect condition. (Again, as a New Yorker you never want to pay that much for clothes/shoes because you can get such great deals here if you know where/when to look.) One good gift I found there were knock-off Turkish soccer shirts. They start at $20, but don’t pay more than $10. I found the Besiktas (beh-sheek-tash) shirts the most attractive because they’re black&white (although Fenerbahçe (fen-nehr-bah-chay) and Galatasaray (Galata-sa-rye) are doing better in the standings).
I found most of my gifts at the Spice Market. Fresh apple tea (there are different types, but the one I bought was basically just chopped apples), boxes of Turkish delight (2 mil - $1.40), and freshly ground coffee called Mehmet Efendi which comes in little packets for either 1 or 2.5 mil. There are locals lining up to get their daily fix, and it smells and tastes delicious. There are also lots of stores outside of the Spice Mkt. If you follow the streets behind, you’ll wind up at the Grand Bazaar again. It’s a tangle of shops though, so be prepared. Also went to the Arasta bazaar which has some nice shops too, but is much smaller than the Grand.
Loved Eminonu with all the people shouting out “bir milyon, bir milyon” (one million), selling all kinds of things; all the fishermen lined up along the Galata Bridge trying to catch sardines, the great view – especially at night – very romantic…
Being a spa lover, I had to take a trip to the hammam. I dropped by Cemberlitas (chem-ber-lee-tash), but since it was full of tourists waiting to get in I decided to go to Cagologlu (jah-ah-low-loo) instead – unfortunately. After I paid my 18euros for a “scrub and massage”, I was led into the women’s changing area where there are small individual rooms with a cot, and hairdryer. You’re given wooden clogs, and a “pestemal” (pesh-teh-mal) or wrap. I was led into what was I thought would be the steam room, but it wasn’t steamy, just warm. When I tried to ask my masseuse about this, she said that the sauna wasn’t good for you anyway. (The brochure states it should be a steam room – maybe they didn’t have the steam turned on because there were no customers. I don’t know). She then instructed me to sit down and pour water on myself. Then she led me to the large marble platform in the middle of the room (we were the only 2 there), where I lay down. I noticed there was a dirty, old pillow there, so I grabbed my pestemal and covered it up. She started with the scrub. When I saw the mitt she was going to use I really wanted to scream, but not wanting to seem like my (at times) high maintenance, western self, and I just lay there hoping for the best. She then soaped me up and gave me what was supposed to be, according to the brochure , a “pummeling” massage, but turned out to be a half-hearted rub-down at best. She kept asking me if it was good, and I kept lying saying “evet” -yes. (It reminded me of a relationship I had once...) Anyway, I was then instructed to wash off again, then led out. That whole experience took less than a half hour. When she came up to me for her tip she complained that it wasn’t enough. I told her that the gent at the front said everything was included (which he really did), and she quickly apologized. Needless to say I was very disappointed. The worst part was that when I got back to the hotel I noticed a rash on my back which must have been from that nasty mitt I was scrubbed with - I was steaming!! Luckily it was gone within a couple of days – Oy!!
Next: Off to Taksim for 3 nights, then home.
I found most of my gifts at the Spice Market. Fresh apple tea (there are different types, but the one I bought was basically just chopped apples), boxes of Turkish delight (2 mil - $1.40), and freshly ground coffee called Mehmet Efendi which comes in little packets for either 1 or 2.5 mil. There are locals lining up to get their daily fix, and it smells and tastes delicious. There are also lots of stores outside of the Spice Mkt. If you follow the streets behind, you’ll wind up at the Grand Bazaar again. It’s a tangle of shops though, so be prepared. Also went to the Arasta bazaar which has some nice shops too, but is much smaller than the Grand.
Loved Eminonu with all the people shouting out “bir milyon, bir milyon” (one million), selling all kinds of things; all the fishermen lined up along the Galata Bridge trying to catch sardines, the great view – especially at night – very romantic…
Being a spa lover, I had to take a trip to the hammam. I dropped by Cemberlitas (chem-ber-lee-tash), but since it was full of tourists waiting to get in I decided to go to Cagologlu (jah-ah-low-loo) instead – unfortunately. After I paid my 18euros for a “scrub and massage”, I was led into the women’s changing area where there are small individual rooms with a cot, and hairdryer. You’re given wooden clogs, and a “pestemal” (pesh-teh-mal) or wrap. I was led into what was I thought would be the steam room, but it wasn’t steamy, just warm. When I tried to ask my masseuse about this, she said that the sauna wasn’t good for you anyway. (The brochure states it should be a steam room – maybe they didn’t have the steam turned on because there were no customers. I don’t know). She then instructed me to sit down and pour water on myself. Then she led me to the large marble platform in the middle of the room (we were the only 2 there), where I lay down. I noticed there was a dirty, old pillow there, so I grabbed my pestemal and covered it up. She started with the scrub. When I saw the mitt she was going to use I really wanted to scream, but not wanting to seem like my (at times) high maintenance, western self, and I just lay there hoping for the best. She then soaped me up and gave me what was supposed to be, according to the brochure , a “pummeling” massage, but turned out to be a half-hearted rub-down at best. She kept asking me if it was good, and I kept lying saying “evet” -yes. (It reminded me of a relationship I had once...) Anyway, I was then instructed to wash off again, then led out. That whole experience took less than a half hour. When she came up to me for her tip she complained that it wasn’t enough. I told her that the gent at the front said everything was included (which he really did), and she quickly apologized. Needless to say I was very disappointed. The worst part was that when I got back to the hotel I noticed a rash on my back which must have been from that nasty mitt I was scrubbed with - I was steaming!! Luckily it was gone within a couple of days – Oy!!
Next: Off to Taksim for 3 nights, then home.
Dec 28th, 2004, 02:42 PM
#24
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Ger,
I had read that Turks were crazy drivers, and I'd have to say, well let's just say it seems like people there drive very quickly. Also, as a pedestrian I often had to jump out of a cars way, because they sure weren't going to slow down.
In some areas of Cappadocia there were potholes in the roads, but for the most part the roads seemed very good. The one thing I did notice though was a lack of obvious street signage. Half the time I didn't know where I was because I couldn't find a street name. This was a little better in Istanbul though.
Looking forward to reading your previous posts soon!
I had read that Turks were crazy drivers, and I'd have to say, well let's just say it seems like people there drive very quickly. Also, as a pedestrian I often had to jump out of a cars way, because they sure weren't going to slow down.
In some areas of Cappadocia there were potholes in the roads, but for the most part the roads seemed very good. The one thing I did notice though was a lack of obvious street signage. Half the time I didn't know where I was because I couldn't find a street name. This was a little better in Istanbul though.
Looking forward to reading your previous posts soon!
Dec 28th, 2004, 03:37 PM
#25
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,713
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Matisse -
This is a fascinating trip report. I love all the details - it's what's really making it interesting.
Turkey is on my "must do" list - but probably not for several years. Your report is really making me consider moving up this trip a lot sooner!
This is a fascinating trip report. I love all the details - it's what's really making it interesting.
Turkey is on my "must do" list - but probably not for several years. Your report is really making me consider moving up this trip a lot sooner!
Dec 28th, 2004, 06:52 PM
#26
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Before moving to Taksim, I had looked at a few hotels in the area. For budget travelers Hotel As, with its great location on Bekar Sokak off Istiklal Caddesi (jah-dess-ee) seemed like the cleanest place. There were a couple of other cheapies which were well located and had nice facades but had dark, depressing, rooms, and roaches. On Siraselviler Cad., which splits off from Istiklal at Taxim Square there are a few mid-sized hotels which seem cater to tour groups. I wanted to stay at the Hotel Butik star with its large/clean $65 room with a long balcony and THE view of the Bosphorous and surrounding area, but by the time I was ready to book, they were full. As you can imagine, all was not lost though…
Said good-bye to Sultanahmet, temporarily, and took a taxi to the Galata Antique Hotel in the Tunel Section of Taksim. I was hesitant about staying here at first because when looking at a map it seemed to be quite far south, and away from all the action of Ist. Cad. Luckily I was wrong. The hotel was very well situated: up a couple flights of steps, then 1/2 block away from Istiklal (which, for those of you who don’t know, is the main pedestrian street of Taksim filled with shops/cafes/restos), the Tunel (the underground which takes you one stop to the top of the Galata Bridge – basically saves you from walking up or down a steep hill), and the tram which runs from Tunel up to Taksim Sq. on Istiklal Cad.
The room would have been perfect about 5 years ago before the carpet got stained, and the shower got moldy. Aside from those things I loved it. Sunny, 4th floor corner with desk/chair, 2 more chairs, armoire, remote controlled heating system AND a radiator! Again the best were the 3 double windows with really nice thick curtains, and views of the most attractive abandoned bldg. (really) and a chunk of the Golden Horn to the west, and the Galata tower, and Beyoglu Town Hall ( I think) to the south – fantastic! ($40/night).
I had to go back to Sultahahmet to buy my 2nd carpet. By now I could tell the difference, in most cases, between a Belcik (bell-jick), an Usak (ooh-shack), a Buhara, and a Sumac so I was pretty happy with myself. What I really wanted of course was a silk on silk Hereke, but I just wasn’t ready for that kind of investment. They are worth looking at though just so you can see how beautiful they are, how the colors change, and how wonderful they feel – like velvet. Caveat: there are different types of Herekes, so watch out for that. After exhausting myself at numerous shops, inhaling all manner of carpet dust I finally settled on an inexpensive wool on wool pink/purple Buhara. BeforeI left the store the young salesman begged me to stay and help him with his English for a while – how could I say no?
Went to a Whirling Dervish sema (dance) at the Galat Mevlihane (Dervish house) which was only 5 minutes from the hotel. The Sufi music was indeed hypnotic, and they had a gentleman singing with the most beautiful voice, and great technique. I was surprised to see that the Dervishes came in a variety of age ranges. There was a chubby 10 yr old, another boy in his teens, all the way up to about 60. It was a very impressive sight to see them whirl, eyes opened and closed, with such grace and silence.
Had dinner at Refik on Sofyali Sok (where there are quite a few other restos). This is a popular place with locals and was indeed packed when I went there on a Saturday night. I managed to get the last remaining table in the house which was thankfully close to the door because it was one big smoke-room. Had a whole grilled fish (20 mil) and mezes. It was good, but I had a similar meal at Boncuk (bon-jook) in the Balik Pazari fish market where they only charged 8mil for the fish which I thought was better. For the hipsters, went to Dulcinea for an expensive glass of red. It’s a long lounge/resto/bar with cute young staff, and the requisite dj spinning electronica. Also off the beaten track in the Cihangir district (chee-han-gear) Café Smyrna which is a laid back resto with a lot of character, a small bar serving interesting looking cocktails (I was having coffee and dessert), where apparently celebs hang out.
The most tasty meals I had were the cheapest and the most expensive. Had the best donair extraordinaire at Cafe Bambi, and the little place next door on Siraselviler Sok. I never eat these here, but they looked so good as I was walking by that I had to stop. Donair is the rotisserie meat (chicken, beef, lamb) that is shaved off and, in this case, put into a thin flat pita-type bread with greasy potato wedges, tomato, lettuce, cheese, then pressed like a panini. For 3.5 mil (2.50), there’s no better way to harden those arteries. The other place was called Flamm on Sofyali Sok. Which is a trendy NY style resto. They have great bread, an amuse of half roasted tomato doused in olive oil, a really fresh salad of smoked salmon, crayfish, capers, tomatoes, crispy lettuce; then an excellent steak in a light cream sauce with chanterelles. I’m not usually a steak fan, but this was an excellent meal. The whole thing with 2 glasses of wine came to about $40, not outrageous. Forgot to mention to look our for fresh squeezed orange and pomegranate juices - yummm.
Said good-bye to Sultanahmet, temporarily, and took a taxi to the Galata Antique Hotel in the Tunel Section of Taksim. I was hesitant about staying here at first because when looking at a map it seemed to be quite far south, and away from all the action of Ist. Cad. Luckily I was wrong. The hotel was very well situated: up a couple flights of steps, then 1/2 block away from Istiklal (which, for those of you who don’t know, is the main pedestrian street of Taksim filled with shops/cafes/restos), the Tunel (the underground which takes you one stop to the top of the Galata Bridge – basically saves you from walking up or down a steep hill), and the tram which runs from Tunel up to Taksim Sq. on Istiklal Cad.
The room would have been perfect about 5 years ago before the carpet got stained, and the shower got moldy. Aside from those things I loved it. Sunny, 4th floor corner with desk/chair, 2 more chairs, armoire, remote controlled heating system AND a radiator! Again the best were the 3 double windows with really nice thick curtains, and views of the most attractive abandoned bldg. (really) and a chunk of the Golden Horn to the west, and the Galata tower, and Beyoglu Town Hall ( I think) to the south – fantastic! ($40/night).
I had to go back to Sultahahmet to buy my 2nd carpet. By now I could tell the difference, in most cases, between a Belcik (bell-jick), an Usak (ooh-shack), a Buhara, and a Sumac so I was pretty happy with myself. What I really wanted of course was a silk on silk Hereke, but I just wasn’t ready for that kind of investment. They are worth looking at though just so you can see how beautiful they are, how the colors change, and how wonderful they feel – like velvet. Caveat: there are different types of Herekes, so watch out for that. After exhausting myself at numerous shops, inhaling all manner of carpet dust I finally settled on an inexpensive wool on wool pink/purple Buhara. BeforeI left the store the young salesman begged me to stay and help him with his English for a while – how could I say no?
Went to a Whirling Dervish sema (dance) at the Galat Mevlihane (Dervish house) which was only 5 minutes from the hotel. The Sufi music was indeed hypnotic, and they had a gentleman singing with the most beautiful voice, and great technique. I was surprised to see that the Dervishes came in a variety of age ranges. There was a chubby 10 yr old, another boy in his teens, all the way up to about 60. It was a very impressive sight to see them whirl, eyes opened and closed, with such grace and silence.
Had dinner at Refik on Sofyali Sok (where there are quite a few other restos). This is a popular place with locals and was indeed packed when I went there on a Saturday night. I managed to get the last remaining table in the house which was thankfully close to the door because it was one big smoke-room. Had a whole grilled fish (20 mil) and mezes. It was good, but I had a similar meal at Boncuk (bon-jook) in the Balik Pazari fish market where they only charged 8mil for the fish which I thought was better. For the hipsters, went to Dulcinea for an expensive glass of red. It’s a long lounge/resto/bar with cute young staff, and the requisite dj spinning electronica. Also off the beaten track in the Cihangir district (chee-han-gear) Café Smyrna which is a laid back resto with a lot of character, a small bar serving interesting looking cocktails (I was having coffee and dessert), where apparently celebs hang out.
The most tasty meals I had were the cheapest and the most expensive. Had the best donair extraordinaire at Cafe Bambi, and the little place next door on Siraselviler Sok. I never eat these here, but they looked so good as I was walking by that I had to stop. Donair is the rotisserie meat (chicken, beef, lamb) that is shaved off and, in this case, put into a thin flat pita-type bread with greasy potato wedges, tomato, lettuce, cheese, then pressed like a panini. For 3.5 mil (2.50), there’s no better way to harden those arteries. The other place was called Flamm on Sofyali Sok. Which is a trendy NY style resto. They have great bread, an amuse of half roasted tomato doused in olive oil, a really fresh salad of smoked salmon, crayfish, capers, tomatoes, crispy lettuce; then an excellent steak in a light cream sauce with chanterelles. I’m not usually a steak fan, but this was an excellent meal. The whole thing with 2 glasses of wine came to about $40, not outrageous. Forgot to mention to look our for fresh squeezed orange and pomegranate juices - yummm.
Dec 28th, 2004, 07:02 PM
#27
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Walking around Beyoglu, Taksim was such a different experience from Sultanahmet. Many of the buildings here are reminiscent of those you see in European cities – again the Paris comparison comes to mind. Beautiful old places filled with character, high ceilings, marble hallways – makes you wish you could move in right away. On Istiklal the crowds changed also. This is the area where you’ll find more of the young people, a lot more women, the hip/jaded/bearded types, the Vakko dept.store where beautifully designed silk scarves are a specialty. Off Istiklal you find sidestreets and Pasaji – covered shops/arcades – where there are even more diversions.
One thing I loved also were the very small intimate coffee houses and bars that you’d come across down some indistinct alley with people just playing chess or plotting revolutions and of course, smoking. I find this tends to be a mostly European, or maybe I should say non-American phenomenon because you just can’t afford to keep places like that open here – not in NYC anyway. It reminded me of the year I spent in France as a student when friends and I would go after class and sit in a place like that for hours just having a coffee and petit pain because that’s all we could afford. Those were the days…
So yes, overall I loved Istanbul, and wouldn’t hesitate to go back. Sure it was hectic, dirty in places (although I never saw rats rummaging through the garbage – not like home – maybe due to all the stray cats running around). If you’re a person who enjoys cities: if you like to see sights, shop, people watch, sit in cafes, stroll, if you want to experience a culture that’s similar enough to your own to be un-intimidating, yet different enough to make things interesting, then this is a city for you.
Went through a lengthy security screening including checked luggage and carry-on search, many questions about where I stayed, including a request for a card from one of the hotels, what I was doing, etc. The approach was fairly laid back though. I had a guy who was new to the job, so he was very nice about it all. Ladies, you will get your breasts and crotch areas handled by (female) security, so be prepared for that.
I have to admit I was a little wistful at the airport because I’d had such a fun, exciting adventure, but I’m sure I’ll go back one day.
And there you have it. (God are my hands cramped!!!)
One thing I loved also were the very small intimate coffee houses and bars that you’d come across down some indistinct alley with people just playing chess or plotting revolutions and of course, smoking. I find this tends to be a mostly European, or maybe I should say non-American phenomenon because you just can’t afford to keep places like that open here – not in NYC anyway. It reminded me of the year I spent in France as a student when friends and I would go after class and sit in a place like that for hours just having a coffee and petit pain because that’s all we could afford. Those were the days…
So yes, overall I loved Istanbul, and wouldn’t hesitate to go back. Sure it was hectic, dirty in places (although I never saw rats rummaging through the garbage – not like home – maybe due to all the stray cats running around). If you’re a person who enjoys cities: if you like to see sights, shop, people watch, sit in cafes, stroll, if you want to experience a culture that’s similar enough to your own to be un-intimidating, yet different enough to make things interesting, then this is a city for you.
Went through a lengthy security screening including checked luggage and carry-on search, many questions about where I stayed, including a request for a card from one of the hotels, what I was doing, etc. The approach was fairly laid back though. I had a guy who was new to the job, so he was very nice about it all. Ladies, you will get your breasts and crotch areas handled by (female) security, so be prepared for that.
I have to admit I was a little wistful at the airport because I’d had such a fun, exciting adventure, but I’m sure I’ll go back one day.
And there you have it. (God are my hands cramped!!!)
Dec 29th, 2004, 05:55 AM
#28
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Matisse
Thank you for a great trip report i am new here on Fodors, but i have read through a few reports but this one has definately been the most exciting one to read!
One question- Have you heard or know anything about Izmir?
thank you!
Thank you for a great trip report i am new here on Fodors, but i have read through a few reports but this one has definately been the most exciting one to read!
One question- Have you heard or know anything about Izmir?
thank you!
Dec 29th, 2004, 09:47 AM
#29
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wonderful report Matisse! I am going to Turkey in September, and you provided tons of useful information that I will be referring back to.
Can you please tell me the politest way to say "Seriously, I am not interested/no thank you" to the hawkers. I want to be nice but get the massage across firmly. You mention that it is almost exhausting to shop due to the sales pressure and that is the thing I am most nervous about in Turkey. I would hate to be rude so I need a good comeback.
Can you please tell me the politest way to say "Seriously, I am not interested/no thank you" to the hawkers. I want to be nice but get the massage across firmly. You mention that it is almost exhausting to shop due to the sales pressure and that is the thing I am most nervous about in Turkey. I would hate to be rude so I need a good comeback.
Dec 29th, 2004, 04:37 PM
#30
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 587
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi HappyCheesehead
Polite way to say NO is " Hayir!" and prononciation in english as same as HIGHER!
You don't need to be nervous you will get Turkish hospitality except SALESMEN.
Have a nice trip in Turkey
Sinan
Polite way to say NO is " Hayir!" and prononciation in english as same as HIGHER!
You don't need to be nervous you will get Turkish hospitality except SALESMEN.
Have a nice trip in Turkey
Sinan
Jan 1st, 2005, 03:27 PM
#31
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Que tal Belleza, sorry I don't have any info on Izmir except what I've heard/read from others: that it's worth visiting.
HappyC, yes as Sinan said you can just say "hayir"- no, and add "tesekkur ederim" (teh-sheh-koor eh-deh-rim) - thank you.
Don't worry though, many people simply ignore the salesmen and just keep walking. Also, since you say you're nervous about the shopping experience, which you shouldn't be, I'd suggest you not accept the offer of apple tea (or other beverages) unless you're interested in buying from that store. Yes it's a traditional part of their hospitality, but it also ensures that you spend even more time in the shop while you're waiting for the tea to arrive, then of course you have to drink it. (It is tasty though.)
HappyC, yes as Sinan said you can just say "hayir"- no, and add "tesekkur ederim" (teh-sheh-koor eh-deh-rim) - thank you.
Don't worry though, many people simply ignore the salesmen and just keep walking. Also, since you say you're nervous about the shopping experience, which you shouldn't be, I'd suggest you not accept the offer of apple tea (or other beverages) unless you're interested in buying from that store. Yes it's a traditional part of their hospitality, but it also ensures that you spend even more time in the shop while you're waiting for the tea to arrive, then of course you have to drink it. (It is tasty though.)
Jan 14th, 2005, 12:07 PM
#33
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hello, i have finally found a great offer to Istanbul but i am wondering if you have heard anything about this hotel, its called Avlonya, it is located close to the Grand Bazar. I found a trip for 330 euro including hotel and air... for 7 nights! Thanks for your help!
Jan 15th, 2005, 03:08 PM
#34
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hola Belleza,
Unfortunately I don't know anything about this hotel, but I did find a couple of descriptions for you. (You may have already found these yourself?)
http://www.dilos.com/hotel/823
http://wguides.com/city/621/33_289903.cfm
Apparently it's in the Aksaray neighborhood which is west of Sultanahmet. I managed to locate the hotel's street - Kucuklanga Cad - but it seems long on my map so it's hard to say exactly how far away the hotel is located. The tram seems to be about 5 blocks from the street. You could try calling the hotel to get a better idea of their location. Otherwise that rate sounds really good!
Buena suerte, and let me know what you decide to do.
Unfortunately I don't know anything about this hotel, but I did find a couple of descriptions for you. (You may have already found these yourself?)
http://www.dilos.com/hotel/823
http://wguides.com/city/621/33_289903.cfm
Apparently it's in the Aksaray neighborhood which is west of Sultanahmet. I managed to locate the hotel's street - Kucuklanga Cad - but it seems long on my map so it's hard to say exactly how far away the hotel is located. The tram seems to be about 5 blocks from the street. You could try calling the hotel to get a better idea of their location. Otherwise that rate sounds really good!
Buena suerte, and let me know what you decide to do.
Jan 16th, 2005, 08:27 AM
#35
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Matisse>
THANK YOU SO MUCH! i am right now comparing and trying to decide, thank you for your help it was very helpful! Once i have decided i will surely let you know! Thank you again so much for your help!!
THANK YOU SO MUCH! i am right now comparing and trying to decide, thank you for your help it was very helpful! Once i have decided i will surely let you know! Thank you again so much for your help!!
Jan 16th, 2005, 09:44 AM
#36
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,514
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Matisse -
In addition to having as a screen name one of my favorite artists, your report is itself artistry!
Turkey has been on my list for a while but I have been reluctant due to the military situation in the middle east. Did you feel any effects while in Turkey? In terms of general security, how did you find it?
And let me add my thanks for the detailed report - you can be assured it will go into my "future file" for refernce when I do get around to visiting Turkey.
In addition to having as a screen name one of my favorite artists, your report is itself artistry!
Turkey has been on my list for a while but I have been reluctant due to the military situation in the middle east. Did you feel any effects while in Turkey? In terms of general security, how did you find it?
And let me add my thanks for the detailed report - you can be assured it will go into my "future file" for refernce when I do get around to visiting Turkey.
Jun 27th, 2005, 11:38 AM
#38
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Matisse, I am sorry for not writing this earlier just sort of forgot about Fodors due to finishing up alot of work here in Madrid.
I just wanted to thank You for the great report and all the helpful ideas, I went to Istanbul and I had a GREAT time.
Unfortunately I do not have the time to write down my trip details right now. Hopefully soon I will. I just wanted to thank You for your great report, that helped me have a great time while I was in Istanbul.
Thank You again Matisse!!
Hot greetings from Madrid,
Belleza
I just wanted to thank You for the great report and all the helpful ideas, I went to Istanbul and I had a GREAT time.
Unfortunately I do not have the time to write down my trip details right now. Hopefully soon I will. I just wanted to thank You for your great report, that helped me have a great time while I was in Istanbul.
Thank You again Matisse!!
Hot greetings from Madrid,
Belleza
Jun 27th, 2005, 05:44 PM
#39
Original Poster
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Seamus and Adoptionisfab, thank you both for the encouragement!
?Que tal Belleza? Estoy muy contenta que, al fin, fue a Istanbul. Funny, I haven't looked at this board for months, and just happened to be browsing today, and here's a message from you!
I'm really happy to have helped out a bit with your trip. Of course we'd all love to hear about it when you get a chance. Until then, eat some chorizo for me.
?Que tal Belleza? Estoy muy contenta que, al fin, fue a Istanbul. Funny, I haven't looked at this board for months, and just happened to be browsing today, and here's a message from you!
I'm really happy to have helped out a bit with your trip. Of course we'd all love to hear about it when you get a chance. Until then, eat some chorizo for me.
Jul 1st, 2005, 01:05 AM
#40
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Astanbul is a city of wonders far exceeding what words can tell!
The Asiatic side can be reached from the European side by two bridges, the Bosphorus Bridge, one of the world's longest suspension bridges and Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge. The Old City and the New City are separated by the Golden Horn, an inlet of the Bosphorus. It is a natural channel seven km long and is connected by two bridges, the Galata Bridge and Atatürk Bridge.
The old city, where the majority of historical monuments are found, lies along the Golden Horn. The most famous of these monuments are St.Sophia, Blue Mosque
The new part of the city displays a modern impression of Istanbul with its skyscrapers and luxurious shopping centers this is where i found the great deal and this is where i stayed...
i had a great time, the weather was pretty 'warm' when i was there and i could go out and not be cold. I did not have to have a radiator on in the room.... sorry Matisse, but it was warm enough!
I ended up walking around 'bidding' for several fun 'things' such as carpets, different teas etc. I even found a table i really wanted but i could not get it with me to spain!!!!
Wow, i would love to spend another month there, im not really interested in wrtiting a trip report because nothing can really beat yours, matisse... so i am just going to 'scribble' down what i did and how much fun i had!
(unfortunately my gf, is in Madrid right now so i cannot spend more time chatting about what i did in Turkey-that would be WRONG)
Still, i am very thankful to your report! thank you!
ill make sure to have a chorizo baguette soon for you!
until then,
happy fourth of july Matisse,
belleza
The Asiatic side can be reached from the European side by two bridges, the Bosphorus Bridge, one of the world's longest suspension bridges and Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge. The Old City and the New City are separated by the Golden Horn, an inlet of the Bosphorus. It is a natural channel seven km long and is connected by two bridges, the Galata Bridge and Atatürk Bridge.
The old city, where the majority of historical monuments are found, lies along the Golden Horn. The most famous of these monuments are St.Sophia, Blue Mosque
The new part of the city displays a modern impression of Istanbul with its skyscrapers and luxurious shopping centers this is where i found the great deal and this is where i stayed...
i had a great time, the weather was pretty 'warm' when i was there and i could go out and not be cold. I did not have to have a radiator on in the room.... sorry Matisse, but it was warm enough!
I ended up walking around 'bidding' for several fun 'things' such as carpets, different teas etc. I even found a table i really wanted but i could not get it with me to spain!!!!
Wow, i would love to spend another month there, im not really interested in wrtiting a trip report because nothing can really beat yours, matisse... so i am just going to 'scribble' down what i did and how much fun i had!
(unfortunately my gf, is in Madrid right now so i cannot spend more time chatting about what i did in Turkey-that would be WRONG)
Still, i am very thankful to your report! thank you!
ill make sure to have a chorizo baguette soon for you!
until then,
happy fourth of july Matisse,
belleza
