Trip Report - The Lake District and Scotland
Oct 11th, 2008, 12:10 AM
#41
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Tuesday Sep 16, 2008
We began this day with some trepidation. Our final destination was Broadford on Skye, but to get there we would have to use three ferries and travel a lot of miles. First on the agenda was the Fishnish to Lochaline ferry which was scheduled to sail at 10:00am. We had paid for this ferry but it was not possible to book the sailing (it operates on a first come, first served basis), so we wanted to be sure to get onto that particular sailing. If we missed it we would have to wait for the next one 45 minutes later, which would really put a crimp in our schedule.
With all of this in mind, we said an early goodbye to our hosts at Linnhe View and headed for Fishnish. When we arrived at the ferry terminal, there was already a queue of waiting vehicles, but we looked like a safe bet to get on. At about 9:50am the ferry pulled up to the landing and unloaded its cargo of vehicles. Soon we were able to move forward and drive on. So far so good. The ferry docked at Lochaline at about 10:15am and we quickly got onto the road across Morvern.
I don’t remember much about the stretch of road from Lochaline to Corran. I don’t think it was particularly interesting. What I do remember is getting behind a huge truck that was piled high with gigantic logs and belting along the road ahead at 60mph. It was literally terrifying, driving behind this behemoth as it rocked and swayed along, threatening to dump timber all over the narrow, winding road at any minute. It was not possible to even think about overtaking him and so we dropped a safe distance behind and hoped that we would be able to dodge any flying trees that he might casually drop. We followed him all the way to Corran where he joined the queue for the Corran ferry. By now there was another car between him and ourselves, a buffer for which we were grateful. There was a surprisingly long queue for the ferry and I did not think that we would make it onto the first sailing and would have to wait for the next. The ferry arrived and it did not look very big. When it was clear, the cars started loading, one by one. The crew took a lot of time and trouble packing the cars onto the ferry and we inched forward in the queue. Then it was time for the gigantic truck to drive on. I was convinced that the weight of the truck would sink the ferry, or that there would not be room on the ferry for it. The ferry was looking pretty full. To my surprise, the crew managed to squeeze the truck on and it did not sink. By this time I was feeling relieved that we would not get onto this ferry. Then a crewman signaled the car in front of us to board. To my amazement they squeezed him into a tiny space on the far side of the truck. Imagine my surprise when the crewman then signaled me forward. He directed me to pull in behind, and almost under, the truck. There was just enough room behind us for them to close the doors. The trip is very short and one stays in the car the whole time. Sitting in the car gazing up at the mountain of timber looming over us while the ferry pitched and yawed, was very disconcerting. With immense relief, we watched the truck trundle off the ferry at Nether Lochaber and go hurtling up the road towards Fort William. Being last off the ferry, we deliberately took our time and let him get far ahead.
The drive from Nether Lochaber to Fort William was much shorter than I expected and we were in Fort William in no time. We drove around for a bit and then stopped at what appeared to be the civic theatre, where we asked for directions to Glen Nevis. We also popped into a local supermarket and stocked up on food. Following the directions that we had been given, we soon found ourselves in Glen Nevis. The sky was overcast and it was drizzling gently. If you are ever in Fort William and you have a bit of time to spare, you should definitely visit Glen Nevis. It is very compact and doesn’t take long to explore but, for all that, it is lovely. We found a field with a small herd of highland cattle and pulled off the road to have our lunch. Even in the less than favourable light, the glen was lush and green and surrounded by beautiful mountains. We saw a number of walkers wending their way through the glen, well protected against the drizzle. In a way, we envied them their freedom to go where we couldn’t. We drove up to the end of the road and then turned and headed back to Fort William. On the way, we stopped to photograph a flock of black-faced sheep in a beautiful green field.
From Fort William we took the ‘Road to the Isles’. I remember this as being a little disappointing. Perhaps by now we had seen so much spectacular scenery that we were becoming a bit blasé. I was probably also looking at my watch a lot to make sure that we reached Mallaig in plenty of time for our ferry to Skye. We did not find the ‘Harry Potter’ railway bridge but made a stop at the Glenfinnan Monument. The rest of the drive to Mallaig was pleasant, with some lovely views on the coast. As it happened, I had been worrying for nothing. We were in plenty of time for the ferry and were, in fact, the first car in the queue. We wandered around the terminal and took photographs of everything that moved. A number of ferries came and went and finally ours arrived. We were the first car on (and the first car off).
We stood on the deck of the ferry as it pulled out of the harbour and photographed the statue at the harbour entrance as we passed it. The drizzle had stopped, but it was cold and VERY windy. We withstood the cold and wind for as long as we could and then retreated indoors.
Being the first car off the ferry at Armadale had its disadvantages. We had no one in front of us and everyone behind us. In the panic not to hold up the traffic, we missed the turning for the road to Tarskavaig and turned up a dead-end road instead. An elderly lady stopped us and asked us where we were going. We explained that we wanted to do the road to Tarskavaig and Ord and then come back to the main road and proceed to Broadford. She told us that we had missed the turnoff to Tarskavaig and that our best bet would now be to take the road to Ord and do the loop in reverse. We thanked her and drove up the road to turn around. When we had turned around, we saw that the old lady was now talking to a young lady in a car that had come up behind us and was completely blocking the road. They seemed unconcerned that we were waiting to pass and had a nice chat in the middle of the road. Eventually the young lady said goodbye to the older lady and drove up past where we were waiting. She simply gave us a friendly wave as she drove by. I guess life is different on the islands.
We rejoined the main road and then took the turning for Ord. This is a single-track road and it is very narrow and very winding. The scenery on the loop is lovely and I thoroughly recommend it to anyone who has the time and doesn’t mind narrow, winding single-track roads. The views across Loch Eishort are especially nice, so do it if you can.
By the time we had finished the loop, it was already after 6:00pm so we made all haste for Broadford and Upper Breakish, where Strathgorm, our home for the next two nights, is located. It was about 6:30pm by the time we arrived but, fortunately, we had told Alison of our plans and she had marked us down as late arrivals.
Despite our late arrival, Alison served us tea and cake in the guest lounge and sat and chatted with us while we drank it. She is a lovely person and made our stay memorable. We would stay there again in a flash. We had a lovely room with a spectacular view over the Inner Sound. It had been a long, but very exciting day.
Strathgorm B&B, Upper Breakish, Skye
Strathgorm is run by Alison Graham. The house is very modern, large and in large grounds. It is a genuine family home and guests are treated as friends. The setting and views are wonderful. Alison is a superb host and really makes you feel welcome.
Pros:
Beautiful, modern house
Outstanding setting and views
Superb hostess
Lovely guest lounge
Lovely big room
Amazing breakfast (orders the previous evening, please)
Clean, modern and well decorated
Very good off-street parking
TV in the room
Cons:
No computer available for guest use
Cost: GBP28pppn
Overall Rating: Five stars. Thoroughly recommended.
We began this day with some trepidation. Our final destination was Broadford on Skye, but to get there we would have to use three ferries and travel a lot of miles. First on the agenda was the Fishnish to Lochaline ferry which was scheduled to sail at 10:00am. We had paid for this ferry but it was not possible to book the sailing (it operates on a first come, first served basis), so we wanted to be sure to get onto that particular sailing. If we missed it we would have to wait for the next one 45 minutes later, which would really put a crimp in our schedule.
With all of this in mind, we said an early goodbye to our hosts at Linnhe View and headed for Fishnish. When we arrived at the ferry terminal, there was already a queue of waiting vehicles, but we looked like a safe bet to get on. At about 9:50am the ferry pulled up to the landing and unloaded its cargo of vehicles. Soon we were able to move forward and drive on. So far so good. The ferry docked at Lochaline at about 10:15am and we quickly got onto the road across Morvern.
I don’t remember much about the stretch of road from Lochaline to Corran. I don’t think it was particularly interesting. What I do remember is getting behind a huge truck that was piled high with gigantic logs and belting along the road ahead at 60mph. It was literally terrifying, driving behind this behemoth as it rocked and swayed along, threatening to dump timber all over the narrow, winding road at any minute. It was not possible to even think about overtaking him and so we dropped a safe distance behind and hoped that we would be able to dodge any flying trees that he might casually drop. We followed him all the way to Corran where he joined the queue for the Corran ferry. By now there was another car between him and ourselves, a buffer for which we were grateful. There was a surprisingly long queue for the ferry and I did not think that we would make it onto the first sailing and would have to wait for the next. The ferry arrived and it did not look very big. When it was clear, the cars started loading, one by one. The crew took a lot of time and trouble packing the cars onto the ferry and we inched forward in the queue. Then it was time for the gigantic truck to drive on. I was convinced that the weight of the truck would sink the ferry, or that there would not be room on the ferry for it. The ferry was looking pretty full. To my surprise, the crew managed to squeeze the truck on and it did not sink. By this time I was feeling relieved that we would not get onto this ferry. Then a crewman signaled the car in front of us to board. To my amazement they squeezed him into a tiny space on the far side of the truck. Imagine my surprise when the crewman then signaled me forward. He directed me to pull in behind, and almost under, the truck. There was just enough room behind us for them to close the doors. The trip is very short and one stays in the car the whole time. Sitting in the car gazing up at the mountain of timber looming over us while the ferry pitched and yawed, was very disconcerting. With immense relief, we watched the truck trundle off the ferry at Nether Lochaber and go hurtling up the road towards Fort William. Being last off the ferry, we deliberately took our time and let him get far ahead.
The drive from Nether Lochaber to Fort William was much shorter than I expected and we were in Fort William in no time. We drove around for a bit and then stopped at what appeared to be the civic theatre, where we asked for directions to Glen Nevis. We also popped into a local supermarket and stocked up on food. Following the directions that we had been given, we soon found ourselves in Glen Nevis. The sky was overcast and it was drizzling gently. If you are ever in Fort William and you have a bit of time to spare, you should definitely visit Glen Nevis. It is very compact and doesn’t take long to explore but, for all that, it is lovely. We found a field with a small herd of highland cattle and pulled off the road to have our lunch. Even in the less than favourable light, the glen was lush and green and surrounded by beautiful mountains. We saw a number of walkers wending their way through the glen, well protected against the drizzle. In a way, we envied them their freedom to go where we couldn’t. We drove up to the end of the road and then turned and headed back to Fort William. On the way, we stopped to photograph a flock of black-faced sheep in a beautiful green field.
From Fort William we took the ‘Road to the Isles’. I remember this as being a little disappointing. Perhaps by now we had seen so much spectacular scenery that we were becoming a bit blasé. I was probably also looking at my watch a lot to make sure that we reached Mallaig in plenty of time for our ferry to Skye. We did not find the ‘Harry Potter’ railway bridge but made a stop at the Glenfinnan Monument. The rest of the drive to Mallaig was pleasant, with some lovely views on the coast. As it happened, I had been worrying for nothing. We were in plenty of time for the ferry and were, in fact, the first car in the queue. We wandered around the terminal and took photographs of everything that moved. A number of ferries came and went and finally ours arrived. We were the first car on (and the first car off).
We stood on the deck of the ferry as it pulled out of the harbour and photographed the statue at the harbour entrance as we passed it. The drizzle had stopped, but it was cold and VERY windy. We withstood the cold and wind for as long as we could and then retreated indoors.
Being the first car off the ferry at Armadale had its disadvantages. We had no one in front of us and everyone behind us. In the panic not to hold up the traffic, we missed the turning for the road to Tarskavaig and turned up a dead-end road instead. An elderly lady stopped us and asked us where we were going. We explained that we wanted to do the road to Tarskavaig and Ord and then come back to the main road and proceed to Broadford. She told us that we had missed the turnoff to Tarskavaig and that our best bet would now be to take the road to Ord and do the loop in reverse. We thanked her and drove up the road to turn around. When we had turned around, we saw that the old lady was now talking to a young lady in a car that had come up behind us and was completely blocking the road. They seemed unconcerned that we were waiting to pass and had a nice chat in the middle of the road. Eventually the young lady said goodbye to the older lady and drove up past where we were waiting. She simply gave us a friendly wave as she drove by. I guess life is different on the islands.
We rejoined the main road and then took the turning for Ord. This is a single-track road and it is very narrow and very winding. The scenery on the loop is lovely and I thoroughly recommend it to anyone who has the time and doesn’t mind narrow, winding single-track roads. The views across Loch Eishort are especially nice, so do it if you can.
By the time we had finished the loop, it was already after 6:00pm so we made all haste for Broadford and Upper Breakish, where Strathgorm, our home for the next two nights, is located. It was about 6:30pm by the time we arrived but, fortunately, we had told Alison of our plans and she had marked us down as late arrivals.
Despite our late arrival, Alison served us tea and cake in the guest lounge and sat and chatted with us while we drank it. She is a lovely person and made our stay memorable. We would stay there again in a flash. We had a lovely room with a spectacular view over the Inner Sound. It had been a long, but very exciting day.
Strathgorm B&B, Upper Breakish, Skye
Strathgorm is run by Alison Graham. The house is very modern, large and in large grounds. It is a genuine family home and guests are treated as friends. The setting and views are wonderful. Alison is a superb host and really makes you feel welcome.
Pros:
Beautiful, modern house
Outstanding setting and views
Superb hostess
Lovely guest lounge
Lovely big room
Amazing breakfast (orders the previous evening, please)
Clean, modern and well decorated
Very good off-street parking
TV in the room
Cons:
No computer available for guest use
Cost: GBP28pppn
Overall Rating: Five stars. Thoroughly recommended.
Oct 11th, 2008, 07:21 AM
#43
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I'm sure I would have felt exactly the same regarding the logging truck enroute and while on the Corren ferry, telling myself I was silly to image such things but wary nevertheless. I've always thought the crews do an amazing job operating these ferries.
Glad to hear you did the circuit through Tarskavaig and Ord. It's a favortie of mine. And, not at all surprised by the locals ( your short delay ) and their sense of what's important. One thing I've learned about the islanders is that they dance to a diffferent drummer. Life is simpler and less hetic than it is for most of us who live in more populated areas.I'm sure they didn't imagine that you might be in a bit of a hurry.
You seem to have made some good choices with your B&B's. It is, as you learned, rare to have a B&B with computer access.
Loooking forward to hearing more.
Glad to hear you did the circuit through Tarskavaig and Ord. It's a favortie of mine. And, not at all surprised by the locals ( your short delay ) and their sense of what's important. One thing I've learned about the islanders is that they dance to a diffferent drummer. Life is simpler and less hetic than it is for most of us who live in more populated areas.I'm sure they didn't imagine that you might be in a bit of a hurry.
You seem to have made some good choices with your B&B's. It is, as you learned, rare to have a B&B with computer access.
Loooking forward to hearing more.
Oct 12th, 2008, 06:07 AM
#44
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Hi historytraveler, glad you're still with me on this epic 
Yes, we were incredibly lucky with our B&Bs. I would not rate any of them as a dud. Most were of an extremely high standard. Patricia and I are in agreement that our favourite was Strathgorm on Skye (review coming up in the next chapter). I took a great deal of time and trouble researching all the B&Bs before making the bookings. I feel that all the research paid off handsomely.
Yes, we were incredibly lucky with our B&Bs. I would not rate any of them as a dud. Most were of an extremely high standard. Patricia and I are in agreement that our favourite was Strathgorm on Skye (review coming up in the next chapter). I took a great deal of time and trouble researching all the B&Bs before making the bookings. I feel that all the research paid off handsomely.
Oct 12th, 2008, 06:09 AM
#45
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Wednesday Sep 17, 2008
We awoke to some sun peeping through patchy cloud. We quickly grabbed a couple of shots of the lovely view through our bedroom window. The previous evening I had ordered what I thought would be a small breakfast of scrambled egg, fried tomato and mushrooms. I was horrified when Alison put my plate in front of me. It was full from edge to edge! Enough to feed a starving bear. The food was delicious and I struggled valiantly but was forced to admit defeat with the plate still half full. Alison is a wonderful cook and obviously enjoys doing it. She doesn’t know the meaning of a ‘small breakfast’.
By the time we went out to the car, the sky was overcast from horizon to horizon but there were some interesting cloud formations to break the monotony. We set off early to explore Skye and headed for the fork in the road at Sligachan Hotel. From there we headed up the west coast towards Dunvegan, enjoying the lovely scenery along the way. Unfortunately, the Cuillins had not got out of bed yet and had their heads tucked determinedly under a blanket of fluffy cloud. The west coast drive is spectacular, with lovely views around every corner.
On arriving at Dunvegan we headed for the castle where we bought a ticket to the gardens only and took the footpath down to the castle. Dunvegan is an attractive, well maintained castle surrounded by beautiful gardens. It is worth taking the path around the back of the castle for some lovely views of the castle overlooking Loch Dunvegan.
We enjoyed our visit to Dunvegan Castle and did some shopping at the souvenir store in the car park. From there we took the road along the north coast and then up to Uig. Uig was much smaller than we anticipated. Its main claim to fame is as a ferry terminal for the Western Islands. Overlooking Uig from a hill to the south of the village is a small fort. So far, none of my researches have turned up any information about this fort. From this hill, the jetty that serves the ferries does not look very substantial and with a queue of cars on it, looks precarious.
North from Uig we drove to Duntulm and pulled off the road near the ruins of Duntulm Castle. Here we encountered a pair of bikers pouring over a map. As we approached, one of them asked if we knew where they were. I pointed out the location on their map and they then asked where the nearest filling station was, as they were very low on fuel. Since they were heading in the direction of Uig, I suggested that they keep their eyes open when they got there and maybe try at the docks. They thanked us and set off in the direction of Uig. I hope that they were able to find fuel. I could not remember seeing any since Dunvegan.
We walked across the muddy fields to the ruins of Duntulm Castle. ‘Ruins’ is an overstatement. There is little left of the castle other than a few low walls. I remembered seeing a photograph of the ruins showing the remnants of a tower. Even that was now gone, as far as we could see. The ruins are fenced and you cannot approach them too closely. This is because the ground is unstable and bits are likely to fall off the ruins at any time. The ruins have a good position on a promontory overlooking the sea and the scene is not without its beauty. We photographed some sheep that were clambering surefootedly on the slopes. We returned to the car and enjoyed our customary lunch.
We set off down the east coast and made a stop to photograph the rugged and majestic Quiraing mountains. The clouds had lifted somewhat and we were able to get a good view of the peaks.
Our next stop was at Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls. The cliffs here are high and sheer. The rocks have interesting colours and patterns and there is a ‘skirt’ between the cliffs and the sea. I assume that Kilt Rock refers to this skirt which, in the right light, probably exhibits a tartan-like pattern. The Mealt Falls jump off the top of the cliff like a would-be suicide and fall precipitously to the rocks below. It is worth spending some time at this stop as there are good views of cliffs to the south as well, though the marshy ground makes getting to a good vantage point quite a challenge.
On the road south towards Portree we spotted the Old Man of Stor, a finger of rock sticking up from the slopes below a cliff, and we stopped to take some pictures. It appears that, at some time in the distant past, the finger broke away from the cliff and has been drifting down the slope without actually falling over. Apparently it is a lot taller up close than it looks from the road and is a challenging climb for mountaineers.
Strangely, I have no memory or pictures of Portree. It is as if we bypassed it completely, though I know this is not possible. If we saw it, it made no impression on me whatsoever.
Our next stop was at Sconser, overlooking Loch Sligachan. The view north across the loch from the golf course is spectacular. The profile of the mountains to the north is dramatic and striking. Perhaps it was just the lighting on the day, but we were there for quite awhile, clicking away happily with our cameras.
South of Sconser, we were offered the choice between the main inland road and the scenic route along the coast. The scenic route was a narrow, single track road and we were nervous of how long it might take, so we opted for the main, inland route. The inland route was very attractive but I wondered if we should have taken the scenic route. As the main road followed the southern edge of Loch Ainort, we could see the coastal road clinging precariously to the mountains on the far side of the loch. In my mind I pictured inching along a single track road high above the waters of the loch, dreading the approach of a car going in the opposite direction and decided that perhaps we had made the wisest choice after all.
On reaching Broadford, we stopped and bought some chips at the fish and chips shop. We found a convenient bench and sat eating our chips and gazing out over the Inner Sound. The local motley crew of seagulls paid us a visit and fought over the few meagre scraps we thought we could spare them from our supper. From there it was only a short hop to Upper Breakish and Strathgorm for the night.
Strathgorm B&B, Upper Breakish, Skye
Strathgorm is run by Alison Graham. The house is very modern, large and in large grounds. It is a genuine family home and guests are treated as friends. The setting and views are wonderful. Alison is a superb host and really makes you feel welcome.
Pros:
Beautiful, modern house
Outstanding setting and views
Superb hostess
Lovely guest lounge
Lovely big room
Amazing breakfast (orders the previous evening, please)
Clean, modern and well decorated
Very good off-street parking
TV in the room
Cons:
No computer available for guest use
Cost: GBP28pppn
Overall Rating: Five stars. Thoroughly recommended.
We awoke to some sun peeping through patchy cloud. We quickly grabbed a couple of shots of the lovely view through our bedroom window. The previous evening I had ordered what I thought would be a small breakfast of scrambled egg, fried tomato and mushrooms. I was horrified when Alison put my plate in front of me. It was full from edge to edge! Enough to feed a starving bear. The food was delicious and I struggled valiantly but was forced to admit defeat with the plate still half full. Alison is a wonderful cook and obviously enjoys doing it. She doesn’t know the meaning of a ‘small breakfast’.
By the time we went out to the car, the sky was overcast from horizon to horizon but there were some interesting cloud formations to break the monotony. We set off early to explore Skye and headed for the fork in the road at Sligachan Hotel. From there we headed up the west coast towards Dunvegan, enjoying the lovely scenery along the way. Unfortunately, the Cuillins had not got out of bed yet and had their heads tucked determinedly under a blanket of fluffy cloud. The west coast drive is spectacular, with lovely views around every corner.
On arriving at Dunvegan we headed for the castle where we bought a ticket to the gardens only and took the footpath down to the castle. Dunvegan is an attractive, well maintained castle surrounded by beautiful gardens. It is worth taking the path around the back of the castle for some lovely views of the castle overlooking Loch Dunvegan.
We enjoyed our visit to Dunvegan Castle and did some shopping at the souvenir store in the car park. From there we took the road along the north coast and then up to Uig. Uig was much smaller than we anticipated. Its main claim to fame is as a ferry terminal for the Western Islands. Overlooking Uig from a hill to the south of the village is a small fort. So far, none of my researches have turned up any information about this fort. From this hill, the jetty that serves the ferries does not look very substantial and with a queue of cars on it, looks precarious.
North from Uig we drove to Duntulm and pulled off the road near the ruins of Duntulm Castle. Here we encountered a pair of bikers pouring over a map. As we approached, one of them asked if we knew where they were. I pointed out the location on their map and they then asked where the nearest filling station was, as they were very low on fuel. Since they were heading in the direction of Uig, I suggested that they keep their eyes open when they got there and maybe try at the docks. They thanked us and set off in the direction of Uig. I hope that they were able to find fuel. I could not remember seeing any since Dunvegan.
We walked across the muddy fields to the ruins of Duntulm Castle. ‘Ruins’ is an overstatement. There is little left of the castle other than a few low walls. I remembered seeing a photograph of the ruins showing the remnants of a tower. Even that was now gone, as far as we could see. The ruins are fenced and you cannot approach them too closely. This is because the ground is unstable and bits are likely to fall off the ruins at any time. The ruins have a good position on a promontory overlooking the sea and the scene is not without its beauty. We photographed some sheep that were clambering surefootedly on the slopes. We returned to the car and enjoyed our customary lunch.
We set off down the east coast and made a stop to photograph the rugged and majestic Quiraing mountains. The clouds had lifted somewhat and we were able to get a good view of the peaks.
Our next stop was at Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls. The cliffs here are high and sheer. The rocks have interesting colours and patterns and there is a ‘skirt’ between the cliffs and the sea. I assume that Kilt Rock refers to this skirt which, in the right light, probably exhibits a tartan-like pattern. The Mealt Falls jump off the top of the cliff like a would-be suicide and fall precipitously to the rocks below. It is worth spending some time at this stop as there are good views of cliffs to the south as well, though the marshy ground makes getting to a good vantage point quite a challenge.
On the road south towards Portree we spotted the Old Man of Stor, a finger of rock sticking up from the slopes below a cliff, and we stopped to take some pictures. It appears that, at some time in the distant past, the finger broke away from the cliff and has been drifting down the slope without actually falling over. Apparently it is a lot taller up close than it looks from the road and is a challenging climb for mountaineers.
Strangely, I have no memory or pictures of Portree. It is as if we bypassed it completely, though I know this is not possible. If we saw it, it made no impression on me whatsoever.
Our next stop was at Sconser, overlooking Loch Sligachan. The view north across the loch from the golf course is spectacular. The profile of the mountains to the north is dramatic and striking. Perhaps it was just the lighting on the day, but we were there for quite awhile, clicking away happily with our cameras.
South of Sconser, we were offered the choice between the main inland road and the scenic route along the coast. The scenic route was a narrow, single track road and we were nervous of how long it might take, so we opted for the main, inland route. The inland route was very attractive but I wondered if we should have taken the scenic route. As the main road followed the southern edge of Loch Ainort, we could see the coastal road clinging precariously to the mountains on the far side of the loch. In my mind I pictured inching along a single track road high above the waters of the loch, dreading the approach of a car going in the opposite direction and decided that perhaps we had made the wisest choice after all.
On reaching Broadford, we stopped and bought some chips at the fish and chips shop. We found a convenient bench and sat eating our chips and gazing out over the Inner Sound. The local motley crew of seagulls paid us a visit and fought over the few meagre scraps we thought we could spare them from our supper. From there it was only a short hop to Upper Breakish and Strathgorm for the night.
Strathgorm B&B, Upper Breakish, Skye
Strathgorm is run by Alison Graham. The house is very modern, large and in large grounds. It is a genuine family home and guests are treated as friends. The setting and views are wonderful. Alison is a superb host and really makes you feel welcome.
Pros:
Beautiful, modern house
Outstanding setting and views
Superb hostess
Lovely guest lounge
Lovely big room
Amazing breakfast (orders the previous evening, please)
Clean, modern and well decorated
Very good off-street parking
TV in the room
Cons:
No computer available for guest use
Cost: GBP28pppn
Overall Rating: Five stars. Thoroughly recommended.
Oct 12th, 2008, 06:29 AM
#46
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Your small fort might have been a broch.
If so, it would be extremely ancient, about 2000 years
See http://www.historic-uk.com/HistoryUK...ory/Brochs.htm
There are some well preserved ones near Glenelg just across from Skye.
See http://sylvia.photoblog.me.uk/p50510014.html
and http://sylvia.photoblog.me.uk/p50510001.html
If so, it would be extremely ancient, about 2000 years
See http://www.historic-uk.com/HistoryUK...ory/Brochs.htm
There are some well preserved ones near Glenelg just across from Skye.
See http://sylvia.photoblog.me.uk/p50510014.html
and http://sylvia.photoblog.me.uk/p50510001.html
Oct 12th, 2008, 07:16 AM
#47
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Oct 12th, 2008, 07:46 AM
#48
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Hi Yelpir,
Regarding information about your old fort south of Uig, there is an Iron Age fort but it's on the north side of Uig Bay. If it's not Shelia's tower, could it have been Caisteal Huisdean? I can't remember if it's visible from the road or not.
Miss Prism and Shelia...I enjoyed having a look at your links.
Regarding information about your old fort south of Uig, there is an Iron Age fort but it's on the north side of Uig Bay. If it's not Shelia's tower, could it have been Caisteal Huisdean? I can't remember if it's visible from the road or not.
Miss Prism and Shelia...I enjoyed having a look at your links.
Oct 12th, 2008, 10:11 AM
#49
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And the winner is: Sheila
Fraser's Folly, or the Uig Tower it was!
Thanks for that bit of information, Sheila. The picture on the website matches the picture that I took on the hill.
MissPrism & historytraveler: I would love to have seen the towers that you mentioned.
Fraser's Folly, or the Uig Tower it was!
Thanks for that bit of information, Sheila. The picture on the website matches the picture that I took on the hill.
MissPrism & historytraveler: I would love to have seen the towers that you mentioned.
Oct 13th, 2008, 03:59 AM
#51
Fantastic write up. As a Brit it is great seeing a visitor enjoying themselves.
The weather this summer (and last) has been miserable so please don't get put off coming back, even we Brits walk about complaining about the heavy clouds.
The car parking costs are getting worse, but not so bad in Yorkshire in the villages.
The weather this summer (and last) has been miserable so please don't get put off coming back, even we Brits walk about complaining about the heavy clouds.
The car parking costs are getting worse, but not so bad in Yorkshire in the villages.
Oct 13th, 2008, 04:27 AM
#52
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I've been behind the same logging truck - but that was in 1996, on my first visit to Ireland, driving through the Wicklow Mountains near Powerscourt. I have film. It's very scary!
You would have remembered Portree had you gone through it, but I believe you have to go off the main road to get to it at all, so I'm not surprised you drove past it. Too bad - beautiful little town.
You would have remembered Portree had you gone through it, but I believe you have to go off the main road to get to it at all, so I'm not surprised you drove past it. Too bad - beautiful little town.
Oct 13th, 2008, 06:50 AM
#53
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Forgot to mention that the last time I was at Duntulm Castle, you could walk around the ruins, and I don't remember anything being fenced off. This was several years ago and with any ruin there is always continuing deterioration,so it's likely they have had to limit access. Too bad.
Are you familar with the story of the nursemaid at Duntulm who accidently dropped the baby heir from the window onto the cliffs below? Apparently that was when the castle was abandoned sometime in the early 18th century.
I've alwaya wanted to check into some of these local legends, but haven't done so yet.
Are you familar with the story of the nursemaid at Duntulm who accidently dropped the baby heir from the window onto the cliffs below? Apparently that was when the castle was abandoned sometime in the early 18th century.
I've alwaya wanted to check into some of these local legends, but haven't done so yet.
Oct 14th, 2008, 03:41 AM
#56
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caroline: Oops! I usually try to review the B&B after the last day in the journal, but made the mistake of posting the review of Strathgorm after the first night and then again after the second night. Sorry about that 
bilboburgler: Thanks for the kind words
GreenDragon: So you also had an experience with a lumber truck! Nervewracking!! Ah, I must have missed the turn-off to Portree. I'm sure if I had picked up on it we would have gone into the town. Oh well, next time
Duntulm: The ruins were definitely fenced off with 'keep out' signs saying that the ruins were dangerous due to shifting ground. Being a very law-abiding little lad (and probably just a little chicken), I did not cross the line and walk among the ruins. As I recall, there was a gate in the fence and it would have been quite easy to simply ignore the notices and cross the line. As a callow youth I probably would have but now I have brittle bones to think about
historytraveler: Yes, I did read the story about the maid dropping the baby from the window. It is hard to imagine how one could do that accidentally. Why would anyone hang a baby out of a window? Well... unless you are Michael Jackson, that is
bilboburgler: Thanks for the kind words
GreenDragon: So you also had an experience with a lumber truck! Nervewracking!! Ah, I must have missed the turn-off to Portree. I'm sure if I had picked up on it we would have gone into the town. Oh well, next time
Duntulm: The ruins were definitely fenced off with 'keep out' signs saying that the ruins were dangerous due to shifting ground. Being a very law-abiding little lad (and probably just a little chicken), I did not cross the line and walk among the ruins. As I recall, there was a gate in the fence and it would have been quite easy to simply ignore the notices and cross the line. As a callow youth I probably would have but now I have brittle bones to think about
historytraveler: Yes, I did read the story about the maid dropping the baby from the window. It is hard to imagine how one could do that accidentally. Why would anyone hang a baby out of a window? Well... unless you are Michael Jackson, that is
Oct 14th, 2008, 04:12 AM
#57
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Actually, I just followed the 30 people from the buses, didn't notice any signs Of course, I had just come from a harrowing experience backing up on a narrow single track road with no shoulder on either side - near the black sand beach on the way to Duntulm. Yikes, that was nerve-wracking!
Of course, I had just come from a harrowing experience backing up on a narrow single track road with no shoulder on either side - near the black sand beach on the way to Duntulm. Yikes, that was nerve-wracking!
Oct 14th, 2008, 04:50 AM
#58
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Thursday Sep 18, 2008
After breakfast we said fond farewells to Alison and headed for Eilean Donan Castle. Driving over the Skye Bridge is quite an experience. It is a hump-backed bridge, which involves driving a long way up and then a long way down. The main bridge terminates on a small island from where a smaller bridge takes you to the mainland.
Our first stop was in Kyle of Lochalsh where we found a viewpoint from which to take pictures of the bridge. We did some shopping in the local supermarket and filled the fuel tank of the car. We never allowed the tank to drop below half full on the trip. You can never be sure where you will next be able to fill.
We arrived at Eilean Donan Castle under dark, gloomy skies with a soft drizzle. The castle sat slumped in the waters of the loch, looking rather lonely, cold and despondent through the fine haze of the rain. We found a viewpoint to the east of the castle and took a few pictures from there before driving over the west of the castle and observing it from there. Each vantage point gives you a different impression of the castle. It looks more friendly from the east and more aloof from the west. Perhaps this is because there are few windows on the western side and that makes it look like a monolithic slab jutting out from the small island on which it stands. Even in the poor weather the castle was impressive.
We had planned to make a detour to Plockton on the way north but, given the less than favourable weather and the long road ahead, we elected to give it a miss and head straight for Applecross. The scenery in this part of the world has to be seen to be believed. As the Applecross Road climbs up to Bealach na Ba (the pass of the cows), the views in all directions are spectacular. There are a number of viewpoints on the way up, but not nearly enough for my liking. We could happily have stopped every 100 yards or so. As the road twists and turns, the view keeps changing and new vistas open up. I felt like one of those little toy dogs whose head swings from side to side on a spring. The road steepens dramatically as it rises and culminates in a series of hairpin bends. The only place to pass oncoming cars is ON those hairpin bends! We were fortunate not to meet any cars coming the other way on this stretch. I was dreading trying to squeeze past any car on one of those bends, let alone a postbus or campervan. Sadly, the top of the pass was shrouded in the mist of low-lying clouds and we had no view from up there at all. Dropping down towards Applecross, we emerged from the mist and enjoyed the wonderful views across the Inner Sound to the Island of Raasay. I had been advised to take the Applecross Road, regardless of the weather, and that was good advice. I wouldn’t have missed it for anything.
From Applecross we turned south towards Toscaig along a scenic coastal road. Somewhere near Culduie we encountered a British Telecoms van parked in the middle of the road. The van had an extendable arm and the engineer was in the little bucket working on some overhead wires. There was no way to pass. The engineer lowered his little bucket, got into the van, set off down the road and pulled off the road. We waved thank you and drove past. We continued down to the end of the road at Toscaig where we enjoyed the view of the little harbour. Then we turned back towards Applecross. At Culduie we again encountered the BT van in the middle of the road. Once again, the engineer had to lower his bucket, drive up the road and pull over. I bet he was cursing us. I wonder how many times he had to repeat that manoeuvre that day!
Reaching Applecross again, we set out on the coastal road to Shieldaig. All along this road are wonderful views so, if you have the time to do the Applecross loop, I can thoroughly recommend it.
From Shieldaig we took the road to Torridon, Kinlochewe and, finally, Gairloch. Despite the dark skies and constant drizzle, Wester Ross is a beautiful part of Scotland and very rewarding to travel through. Looking back, Gairloch would have made an excellent base for a few days of in-depth exploration of this region. There are so many dead-end roads to places on the coast that I would love to have explored at our leisure. Because of the weather, we did not make as many stops en route as we had anticipated and we arrived at Kerrysdale House, our B&B for the night, at about 2:45pm. There was a note on the door saying “back at 3:30pm” so we went off into town in search of public loos (which we found). We could have made the trip to the Inverewe Gardens that afternoon but decided that they wouldn’t be very exciting under the gloomy weather conditions and we didn’t feel like walking around in the drizzle, so we made our way back to the B&B and sat in the car until the hostess arrived home.
Kerrysdale House is situated a few miles out of Gairloch on the Kinlochewe road. The house has lovely grounds and is surrounded by green fields with sheep. The view from our bedroom window was beautiful. We had a lovely room on the upper floor with a huge en suite bathroom.
Kerrysdale House B&B, Gairloch, Wester Ross
Kerrysdale House is run by Willie & Marie Macrae.
Pros:
Lovely, quiet country position with beautiful views
Friendly hostess
Pleasant room with large bathroom
Very good breakfast
Clean and well decorated
Very good off-street parking
TV in the room
Cons:
No guest lounge (understandable, as the house has only 3 guest rooms)
Small shower for such a large bathroom
No computer available for guest use
Cost: GBP31pppn
Overall Rating: Four stars. Recommended.
After breakfast we said fond farewells to Alison and headed for Eilean Donan Castle. Driving over the Skye Bridge is quite an experience. It is a hump-backed bridge, which involves driving a long way up and then a long way down. The main bridge terminates on a small island from where a smaller bridge takes you to the mainland.
Our first stop was in Kyle of Lochalsh where we found a viewpoint from which to take pictures of the bridge. We did some shopping in the local supermarket and filled the fuel tank of the car. We never allowed the tank to drop below half full on the trip. You can never be sure where you will next be able to fill.
We arrived at Eilean Donan Castle under dark, gloomy skies with a soft drizzle. The castle sat slumped in the waters of the loch, looking rather lonely, cold and despondent through the fine haze of the rain. We found a viewpoint to the east of the castle and took a few pictures from there before driving over the west of the castle and observing it from there. Each vantage point gives you a different impression of the castle. It looks more friendly from the east and more aloof from the west. Perhaps this is because there are few windows on the western side and that makes it look like a monolithic slab jutting out from the small island on which it stands. Even in the poor weather the castle was impressive.
We had planned to make a detour to Plockton on the way north but, given the less than favourable weather and the long road ahead, we elected to give it a miss and head straight for Applecross. The scenery in this part of the world has to be seen to be believed. As the Applecross Road climbs up to Bealach na Ba (the pass of the cows), the views in all directions are spectacular. There are a number of viewpoints on the way up, but not nearly enough for my liking. We could happily have stopped every 100 yards or so. As the road twists and turns, the view keeps changing and new vistas open up. I felt like one of those little toy dogs whose head swings from side to side on a spring. The road steepens dramatically as it rises and culminates in a series of hairpin bends. The only place to pass oncoming cars is ON those hairpin bends! We were fortunate not to meet any cars coming the other way on this stretch. I was dreading trying to squeeze past any car on one of those bends, let alone a postbus or campervan. Sadly, the top of the pass was shrouded in the mist of low-lying clouds and we had no view from up there at all. Dropping down towards Applecross, we emerged from the mist and enjoyed the wonderful views across the Inner Sound to the Island of Raasay. I had been advised to take the Applecross Road, regardless of the weather, and that was good advice. I wouldn’t have missed it for anything.
From Applecross we turned south towards Toscaig along a scenic coastal road. Somewhere near Culduie we encountered a British Telecoms van parked in the middle of the road. The van had an extendable arm and the engineer was in the little bucket working on some overhead wires. There was no way to pass. The engineer lowered his little bucket, got into the van, set off down the road and pulled off the road. We waved thank you and drove past. We continued down to the end of the road at Toscaig where we enjoyed the view of the little harbour. Then we turned back towards Applecross. At Culduie we again encountered the BT van in the middle of the road. Once again, the engineer had to lower his bucket, drive up the road and pull over. I bet he was cursing us. I wonder how many times he had to repeat that manoeuvre that day!
Reaching Applecross again, we set out on the coastal road to Shieldaig. All along this road are wonderful views so, if you have the time to do the Applecross loop, I can thoroughly recommend it.
From Shieldaig we took the road to Torridon, Kinlochewe and, finally, Gairloch. Despite the dark skies and constant drizzle, Wester Ross is a beautiful part of Scotland and very rewarding to travel through. Looking back, Gairloch would have made an excellent base for a few days of in-depth exploration of this region. There are so many dead-end roads to places on the coast that I would love to have explored at our leisure. Because of the weather, we did not make as many stops en route as we had anticipated and we arrived at Kerrysdale House, our B&B for the night, at about 2:45pm. There was a note on the door saying “back at 3:30pm” so we went off into town in search of public loos (which we found). We could have made the trip to the Inverewe Gardens that afternoon but decided that they wouldn’t be very exciting under the gloomy weather conditions and we didn’t feel like walking around in the drizzle, so we made our way back to the B&B and sat in the car until the hostess arrived home.
Kerrysdale House is situated a few miles out of Gairloch on the Kinlochewe road. The house has lovely grounds and is surrounded by green fields with sheep. The view from our bedroom window was beautiful. We had a lovely room on the upper floor with a huge en suite bathroom.
Kerrysdale House B&B, Gairloch, Wester Ross
Kerrysdale House is run by Willie & Marie Macrae.
Pros:
Lovely, quiet country position with beautiful views
Friendly hostess
Pleasant room with large bathroom
Very good breakfast
Clean and well decorated
Very good off-street parking
TV in the room
Cons:
No guest lounge (understandable, as the house has only 3 guest rooms)
Small shower for such a large bathroom
No computer available for guest use
Cost: GBP31pppn
Overall Rating: Four stars. Recommended.
Oct 15th, 2008, 01:31 AM
#59
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I have uploaded my Lake District pictures to the Webshots website, if anyone is interested. I am still working on the Scotland pictures.
The link for the Lake District pictures is:
http://community.webshots.com/album/568015166HgUSQX
The link for the Lake District pictures is:
http://community.webshots.com/album/568015166HgUSQX
Oct 15th, 2008, 06:42 AM
#60
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Wonderful pictures, Yelpir.
Several years ago we had planned to drive from Ullapool to Kyle of Lochalsh via Applecross, but plans were curtailed due to not being able to rent a car. Long story. I still have that route on my list of things to do.It certainly seems like you arranged an excellent itinerary.
Regarding your question of who hangs a baby out a window, with the exception of Michael jackson, I can only respond with the idea that there are idiots in all generations/ages. I've found that legends are sometimes based on true stories with considerable exaggeration and embellishment. I doubt if there are any written records referring to this event. Still it makes a good if implausible story.
Several years ago we had planned to drive from Ullapool to Kyle of Lochalsh via Applecross, but plans were curtailed due to not being able to rent a car. Long story. I still have that route on my list of things to do.It certainly seems like you arranged an excellent itinerary.
Regarding your question of who hangs a baby out a window, with the exception of Michael jackson, I can only respond with the idea that there are idiots in all generations/ages. I've found that legends are sometimes based on true stories with considerable exaggeration and embellishment. I doubt if there are any written records referring to this event. Still it makes a good if implausible story.
